8 July: Saturday.
A restful day although an early morning wakeup due to the
traffic outside the window. A stroll along the river to fill in time before our
laundry pickup at 10am. Shortly followed by a thunderstorm but we were having a
cuppa so not a worry.
Once weather cleared we walked a circuit of inner Ho Chi Minh city, past Opera
House to the Post Office (impressive old period building) and then through
“Book Alley”. As it was threatening rain again we had a café smoothie before
continuing along past the reunification building, a central park and sculpture
area then through the large indoor market. Market was a bit overwhelming with
so many vendors all trying to get your attention/rip off the westerners?
Yelling of “you buy?” or “what you want?” and one even physically grabbing Noel
by the shoulder to slow him down. So that was a quick visit and a quick exit.
We actually brought a couple of things, including weasel coffee! , at the Post
Office souvenir shop as couldn’t be bothered with the market bargaining.
Found a department store and decided there would be a food
court, sought out a bakery to hit the spot eating purchases on the street
before wandering back to the hotel. The Department store had a lot of big-name
brands and independent brand name shops within the complex. Some flash
chauffeur driven cars dropping off and picking up people.
Encountered a couple of young street kids on our walk, maybe
7 or 8 year olds in 2 different places. Seemingly by themselves, they just said hello and
held out a hat … not sure if they were being watched or not??
Back to the hotel for a bit of a rest up before the next
Intrepid welcome meeting. Turns out we are probably the “oldies” for this new
group:
Welsh family of 5: Mark and Emma with Lexi (16), Liv (21)
and Devon (22)
English couple Bill and Janet
Aussies Abbey, Malcolm and Gretel (all independents)
Rafael from Brazil, but lives in Luxembourg
Kieran and Marvi (Kieran ex NZ, Marvi ex Italy now together
in Aus).
And Rod from Ireland who like us completed the last tour
too…
Out to a different restaurant with out new main guide Nut.
My meal was huge, Noel’s not so much. Wander through the main part of city to
view the nightlife, streets closed off to traffic and heaving with people,
street performers, dogs… you name it. The streets still open to traffic
absolutely jammed with cars and scooters, and scooters driving down footpaths
etc… chaos still reigns.
A new adventure begins…
9 July: Sunday
Bus ride of 2 hours to begin the day then off the bus to
discover we have our “old” bikes back, so pleased about that. Took a while for
the newbies to get their steeds sorted then we set off mainly off the road and
along the riverside scooter paths etc.
First stop was on the corner of a roundabout, a service
station opposite providing toilet, before onward on more river paths before a
stop for a breather after 10km, but no snacks. As we left it started to rain,
quickly developing into a full-on thunderstorm including dramatic lightening
flashes. Pretty full on but actually quite an experience, almost fun. Pace
picked up to keep everyone moving in the rain, had to detour at one stage as
track was flooded out. We became absolutely soaked to the skin but it did ease
off and begin to clear. The tracks however now had 10cm puddles that we had to
ride through, at least the water was warm!
Lunch spot was Pho, ideal when one is wet!! From there it
was a bus ride to a boat ramp to load up and head to our homestay on the Mekong
River Delta. Despite trepidation it was actually flash in a Vietnam type of
way, even had our own bathroom although only cold water shower.
Arrived there around 4pm, so after drying out it was time
for a beer and a cooking lesson … Vietnamese pancake … then dinner which was
fish and lots of other stuff.
Thunderstorms again this evening, off to bed around 9pm and
lulled to sleep with rain on the roof.
10 July: Monday
Pleased to find all our gear dried out overnight, much more
pleasant to wear. Onto the boat and a stop at the coconut market. Watched how
they made candy, popping rice as well as tasters of snake head whiskey… no one
buying though. From there back to the mainland at a different spot to where we
departed yesterday.
We biked around 15km, again mostly along the river.
Noel not feeling good at all, was dodgy at the coconut
market stop … in hindsight Noel thinks Tung was aware something was not right
and was watching closely. On the bikes Nut queried me as to if Noel was OK? He
is sweating heaps and its not even as hot as it has been. At the first stop he
was shaking and pale so he opted to ride out the next 3 stages in the bus
rather than bike … pretty sure it was low blood pressure, possibly brought on
by dehydration as hadn’t drunk as much in the heavy rain sections yesterday. A
lesson learnt. Very impressed with the concern shown by the rest of the group
too.
Regular stops from then on including lunch.
Noel looking better and will do the last leg of the day on
his bike. Mostly still on river tracks then just tracks and road. Got back on
the bus for an hour to get us to our hotel in Chau Doc. Our last night in
Vietnam so lots of rice, fruit and corn today. A few Brahman type cattle under open
sheds, fish farms etc. So very flash houses amongst the more modest abodes.
Both quite tired tonight, dinner at our hotel as Nut advised
it was the safest bet.
The Mekong river just seems so muddy, did 2 ferry crossings…
one with the bikes. The new group is quite fit but will suffer as time goes on
I think, sore butts etc, as not such serious bikers.
11 July: Tuesday
7.30am start with bikes lined up outside hotel ready for us.
Firstly lanes along a man-made canal before hitting the road … it’s quite hot!!
Tung set a fast pace for the first leg, our van driver obviously decided to
stop exactly on the 14km mark as there was no room to spread out to have our
refreshments. There was a bit of an animated conversation going on so think he
was getting a reprimand!!
Second leg was not quite so speedy and ended at the border
town of Tinh Bien, where we crossed out of Vietnam after farewelling the
Vietnam team, and our bikes. Sat in Vietnam immigration for a period as the
officers checked off our visas against dates/names etc.
Then a walk across no mans land to the Cambodia side, the
official border just a series of shacks. First passing the quarantine shack
were Nut discreetly shook the officers hand… who immediately disappeared into
his office and put something in a drawer… definitely some $$ changed hands.
Then to the immigration shacks, most of us had to apply for a visa on the spot
… no problems but it took a while as there was only one officer on duty
processing, then another man stamping. Anyway all through and onto a new bus
and introduced to our new local tour guide (Nut remains overall tour leader but
each country must have its own local guide). After a short trip it was time for
lunch, a very nice curry!
The day is super hot, about 40c plus outside as we were
checking out our new bikes. Not quite up to the last ones standard … mine seems
a bit big and a seat that doesn’t drop further (stem too long). 29” tyres
though so nice to be back to them.
12km stage for a start along the main road … lots of
“hello’s” from kids, lots of huge loads on scooters, greener countryside (not
sure how that happens!). Maybe the rice crops a bit more advanced, but skinnier
looking cattle tied to trees.
Bike seat is very uncomfortable although managed to jam it
down a little bit further. Due to the heat it was decided we would do 3 legs of
7km, a nice idea!
Back on the bus for a couple of hours to reach Phnom Penh
which on arrival was a nice surprise. Lots of high rise buildings, quite a
modern looking city set around the Mekong river.
Out as a group for dinner taking Tuk-Tuk's to the Imperial
Palace area, then a lovely meal at a Viet/West menu sort of place. Return trip
back to the hotel on Tuk-Tuk again. Looks a fabulous city at night: lots of
lights, billboards, brightly lit boats on the river … looks great.
12 July: Wednesday
Slower start which was appreciated by all, 8am bussed to a
temple to pick up our bikes. From there crossed the Mekong on a ferry to Mekong
Island. Biked along mostly on paved roads, listening to the clatter of looms as
the island is known for its silk and cotton weaving.
There is some flash houses on the island. Stopped at a
temple area for a look around then onto a weaving workshop which was 4 looms
working under a family home. Had a huge array of snack food laid on for us …
local delicacies plus banana plus cake as the electrolyte!?!
A range of scarves for sale, both silk and cotton. Ended up
buying a silk one for $US15 … don’t know if I needed it or even if it was cheap
… but all good.
Back to the ferry and then back to the bus to take us back
to the hotel. Good to have a couple of days off the bike as I have very sore
pin bones on the current seat!!
We opted out of the group lunch and later on just walked to
a nearby bakery café, perfect croissants and smoothies. Noel got some $Reil out
of ATM … yay … and went to check out the pool on the hotel second to top floor.
Although looks lovely it is colder than expected. There is a rooftop bar one
floor up but its closed ): So a BYO instead, a lovely spot looking out over a
part of the city.
And our washing collected, so tick!
Abbey, one of the group had enquired about a boat cruise and
WhatsApp messaged to see who is keen … yep, we’re in … so 15 of us were transferred by Tuk-Tuk to the boat. A family boat probably, as there was a tiny (couple of weeks
old) baby on board plus mum, plus grandma etc, pretty sure they all live on boat.
We had the whole top deck to ourselves, a private charter.
Lychees, some other fruit, banana chips supplied and cheap beer to be had ($2)
or cocktails ($3) and away we went. A 2 hour cruise on the Mekong … amazing
experience with stunning sky, sunset then lightening and thunder threatening.
Lots of high-rise’s on city skyline, lights etc. Great music playing, a great
vibe and fun excursion with fun people.
Off the boat and Bill ushered us into the 1st
restaurant he could see as a few in the group were a wee bit intoxicated by
that stage. (Bill is great at that, an army career chap with a fantastic manner
so the ultimate leader/carer!). A lovely pizza, burger and chips for dinner as
well.
Back to the hotel in Tuk-Tuk's and we are back in our rooms
for a cuppa tea!!! Ahh to be the ‘elders’ in the group.
13 July: Thursday
Today is a sight seeing day, visiting important historical
sites in Phnom Penh. All bus, no biking.
First up the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda. The blue flag
was flying so apparently the King was in residence. The King, Norodun Sihamon,
has no wife or children. Nut implied he is probably gay and spent a lot of time
in Russia learning ballet??
The complex is a lot of buildings, built 1860’s then
re-built from 1912 onwards. The most impressive is the Throne Hall, houses a
gold buddha and an emerald buddha whilst the floor is solid silver … most
impressive.
From there it was on to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.
Originally a school it was taken by the Khmer Rouge to use as a prison and
torture area. From there prisoners were sent to the Killing Fields usually
after a 3-6 month detention. The prison guards who were mainly just teenage
boys (and women prisoners also: wife of someone, daughter of someone etc) were
also changed over every 12 months… but were taken away and killed, a no witness
policy.
All very sad and futile.
There were 2 old chaps, out of the 7 who survived out of
20,000 prisoners, sitting under trees selling their books that they had written
regarding the camp and their experiences.
Back on the bus for a trip to the Killing Fields, and lunch
at a complex just over the road from the site. A 30 minute tour of the area
where nearly 9000 corpses have been exhumed. In the memorial in the middle of
the grounds (stupa) there is some 8000 skulls..
Obviously all very sad although feeling a little removed
from it all … even though the atrocities only happened in 1975-1979, ie our
teenage years!
Our local guide had been a child during those years and had
worked (been sent to) camps digging a canal at 12 years old. At one point he
relayed that he had escaped from the camp, dodging bullets. His older brother
was killed by the regime.
Got back to the hotel around 4pm, time for a rest after a
quick supermarket shop for sustenance during tomorrows bus trip to Siem Reap.
We then went for a walk down the centre piece of the main streets and to the
independence monument built in 1958 as well as a statue of King Norodon. It was
after 5pm so heaps of locals our walking/running/exercising along the centre
loop as well as a bit of soccer, hacky sack and badminton on the go.
As lightening was threatening we walked back toward the
hotel and went and found the speak-easy bar located behind a Coke vending
machine!! Cool as!! Had gone in for a drink there and ended up also ordering
pizza there, as easy as anywhere… then another drink, very comfortable place
with a neat vibe. A few locals also dropping in for drink/food.
Back to the hotel for an early night.
14 July: Friday
A day of bus travel today… left hotel foyer 7.45am for
transfer to public bus, then picked up other passengers from bus station,
almost all of whom were westerners.
A slow exit from city as traffic was just crawling, to
arrive at a second bus station for some more passengers. The whole waterfront
area of Phnom Penh is seemingly under construction for hotels and apartments.
Total bus trip of 6 hours, stopping for lunch at 11am
(surprisingly) before a 15min second stop at 2pm. Both stops were very clean
and very ordered restaurants with lots of toilets.
Travelling through the countryside and a couple of small
towns otherwise just villages. Land all flat with a lot of mechanised fields of
rice we guess. Fields had man-made canals every now and then plus huge sheds in
places. Spotted one rice processing factory whilst out in the field there was automated
rice harvesters working: didn’t really see people in the fields other than some
tending a few cows, the cows generally not in great condition.
Housing mostly simple, similar to Vietnam, with open
downstairs and house on top. Did wonder if the design was for flood protection
but then there was a few newer houses that were solid to the ground so unsure.
Very tough to stay awake on the bus and we both dozed at
times.
Arrived at Siem Reap bus station 4pm then transferred
quickly to our hotel. An older traditional hotel but perfect. Group went out
for dinner together, a walk into town of around 15min. Seems like a vibrant
town centre with shops, markets, bars, restaurants and rolled ice cream stalls!
Back to the hotel for an early night, tomorrow we cycle to
Angkor Wat.
15 July: Saturday
An amazing day spent temple hopping.
Cycled from the hotel. To my surprise I had been given a
smaller framed bike… I’d asked for something to be done about the seat as it
wouldn’t go low enough on the first Cambodian bike, hadn’t mentioned it again
so had thought it had been forgotten about… so Yay and here’s to a happier
bum!!
Initial ride of around 7km to Angkor Wat temple complex,
built in the 12th century for the Khmer Empire by King Suryavarman II and then refurbished in the 1600’s. An amazing place and
in very good order too. It is a series of 3 inner/outer walls with courtyard
areas. We wandered all through it including up the top tower… very cool with
steep steps (pyramid like). Saw a couple of monkeys in the compound and some on
the road on the trip there. The complex is surrounded by water/moat.
From there a 3km cycle until snacks in a carpark before
going into Bayon temple, which was made largely from leftover rock from Angkor.
The towers on this one had faces, on all 4 sides, whilst it also had a
chequered history from Buddhist to Hindu. Somewhat more ruinous type but still
amazing.
Lunch was then had opposite Ta Prohm (Tomb raider) temple
(to view it watch Tomb Raider trailer on YouTube apparently!). Even more ruins
like but the most striking feature was the huge tree roots wrapping themselves
around buildings and hanging off walls. Pretty stunning place!
Biked back to the hotel at quite a quick pace, to be greeted
with cold shower ☹ Ended up eating out with most of the group as we met
them in the lifts and they were heading to a pizza place… it was a small family
one restaurant and lovely. Tuk-tuk to there but group all just walked back in
the evening air following the river, very pleasant.
The day has been quite surreal wandering through grounds,
corridors and rooms that housed people hundreds of years ago.
16 July: Sunday
4.15am start today, up and taken by bus to watch the sunrise
over Angor Wat. There was no sunrise!! But lots of hopeful people 😊
Back to the hotel by 7am for breakfast before cycling departure 8am.
First stop Pre Rup temple, which was made of red sandstone
brick.
A 12km ride from there to our snack stop. Our Cambodian
guide Tony showing us how he eats ants! People got skilled at this during the
Khmer Rouge period as food, particularly protein, was so restricted.
Also stopped at a roadside market area where there was a lot
of meat being cooked over open fire pits: whole pork, chicken, frogs etc. Noel
tried frog… reported it was all spice, turmeric and peanut sauce so couldn’t
taste the frog although he was a bit jumpy afterward! Also water buffalo meat
which was very tough.
Next temple Banteay Srei which was a Hindu temple once
again made of red sandstone brick. Not as imposing a structure but a lot of
intricate carvings showing historic moments. The area around the temple and
indeed wider area like a lot of the country was left with landmines following
the Khmer Rouge period. Tony previously advised as well as injuring and killing
masses of people they have resulted in wiping out the wild elephant population.
The group then split with the serious bikers opting to bike
the 37km back the same way we came and the not so serious (including us) taking
the bus. The last we see of our bikes of which my new one has been great.
So a shower, a bit of hand washing and catching up on some
news reading before a walk down the street. Found a currency exchange to get
rid of our remaining Vietnamese dong, had dinner and shared a rolled ice cream
… to end up coming back to the hotel with 1300 riel left… about 60c US so not
bad going really!!
The temples have been amazing, there remains a whole lot of
others we didn’t see. A fascinating area and the Siem Reap town is vibrant,
colourful, friendly and somewhere you could find a bargain… although we didn’t
look.
17 July: Monday
We are in Thailand!
7am start from Siem Reap to travel by super luxury bus to
the Cambodian border travelling through lots of farmland, small towns with a toilet
stop at a garage half way, had a dairy queen and 7-11 shop and actually managed
to spend our last meagre riel!
Tony, our Cambodian guide had to travel over the border with
us. The border crossing itself was fine but the process/system a bit weird… all
lined up and stamped out of Cambodia whilst guide Nut went totally separate and
we had to pretend we didn’t know him. Once in “no mans land” we re-joined Nut
and we all got stamped through the Thai border no issues. Walked to an ATM
where we got currency then waited for 2 vans to pick us up and drove us 40 mins
to lunch stop. Lunch of Pad Thai where we also caught up with the Intrepid
group we had met in Phnom Penh (they are in Bangkok tonight).
Another 40min drive to a reservoir Tha Krabak dam where most
of the group had a swim. The water was warm, but it had quite a muddy bottom
leaving a red mud tinge a little!
Met our new bikes (Trek Hybrid) and new support team. Nut
has his sister, brother and father in the group! As well as 2 others, including
an ex Olympic cyclist… quite the support team so should be well looked after.
Set off at a cracking pace for 18km where we stopped at a
temple grounds, lovely snacks laid on. Followed by 12km, another temple
refreshment stop then a final 8km or so to our hotel which is a “resort” and
although older it is fine. Dinner at the hotel with 8 kinds of dishes to try,
some hot but most very nice.
Unfortunately, I have another cold, drats!
Thailand does not have as much visible rubbish. Lots of
trees, biked past eucalyptus and rubber trees.
18 July: Tuesday
8am departure on our bikes although only a couple of kms
before parking outside a police station. Then walked through the local market:
fish, small turtles, live frogs in plastic bags, lots of different fruits,
vege, chilli, dried spices etc so all very colourful and an attack on the
senses. Fermented fish (buckets of it) smelt disgusting and Raf nearly threw up
on the smell… I stayed well away… and Durian fruit was a similar story!! There
was a few clothes aimed at the local market/people.
A group photo shot in front of a railway station before
getting onto some quieter roads with the cycling being split into manageable
lots of 18kms or thereabouts. 1st stop was water only whilst a
demonstration from a local family of broom makers… bamboo handles and dried
coconut straw. 2nd stop however had yummy snacks whilst we got a
demonstration on how to make bamboo food baskets.
10kms to lunch followed by 15km and a stop at a rubber
plantation and Nut gave an explanation. 5-6km more to our snack stop at a
stunning temple. Then 12km, quick stop, and 6km to our hotel in Kabin Buri.
There was an option of another 30km riding to clock up 100km
for the day, 6 riders took that up but not us as shower sounded too good!
Today biked through rubber plantations, tapioca plantations,
banana plantations as well as a lupin type plant, saw a few fat cows although
not much other livestock but there are dogs everywhere that are semi wild but
quite well fed.
Nut explained that when he was young he had 2 compulsory
duties to fulfil: compulsory military training over 3 years and the 16 days as
a Buddhist monk before he was married. Lots of duties and prayers, fasting from
midday until sunrise and then have to go and beg for food… he told us a lot of
instant noodles were snuck in by the trainees, but they had to beg for
forgiveness for doing so!! Some odd things too, they had to sit down to urinate
for example, tying orange tunic by yourself, small footsteps to avoid standing
on ants as Buddhists don’t like to kill. Nut wasn’t convinced of the lifestyle.
Nut and the crew are great, the mechanic at the back is
lovely… I should know as that’s where I live mainly! Nut helps out with the
cooking at breakfast and lunch restaurants as he once owned his own, which is a
nice touch.
Temperatures pre-lunch were hot before it clouded up and
cooled a bit which was nice. Very pleasant scenery with very considerate
drivers that resulted in a few hellos and waves too.
Group all went out to dinner together with Nut ordering the
dishes. I found most things a bit hot!! We then went for one drink at a bar
near the hotel which had a band playing which was good but loud so although fun
made it hard to converse.
19 July: Wednesday
Last day biking…. Ever!! … well, no, but it will be for a
few days anyway…
8am departure for 40min drive to a sports field area to
start biking along flat meandering well paved, and not very busy, roads. 20km
to a coffee shop which had a lovely accommodation area too, snacks laid out for
us with a lot being eaten as breakfast had been a bit dismal this morning.
Another 10km to a water stop and another 10km for a snacks
stop at a spectacular temple complex before our final 9km (including a 1 ½ km
steep climb) to the top of Khun Dan Dam, one of Thailand’s largest dam and the world's largest rolled concrete dam. The dam was
looking a bit low of water but offered spectacular views of the area, lots of forested
hills on the downward side, although water levels low there was tourist boats
plying the lake. After some photos of group etc we all whizzed back down
(Yee-haw) to a restaurant and bathrooms, allowing a change out of sweaty clothes
which was nice.
Bikes, and support crew, farewelled … both of which have
been amazing in Thailand … before departing after lunch for a 3 hour drive to
Bangkok, heavy traffic once we hit the city surrounds!
Up a narrow street in a bustling area to a lovely hotel.
Obviously a tour hotel as a lot of groups coming and going.
Last group/tour dinner, minus Rob who was heading for the
airport. Once again Nut ordered and served dishes, it was good food and not so
hot for me. All goodbyes said, it has been a fun group, and we wandered down
“pub street” Khao San Road then back to the hotel.
The last days riding had been through rice fields and banana
plantations to now this evening be amongst a throng of massage parlours … foot,
leg, shoulder .. lines of seats and therapists outside the businesses touting
for business, lots of eateries, quite a few street hawkers selling wristbands,
wooden toys and roasted scorpions!! Bill tried one and thought it was just
burnt crunch! A whole lot of shops selling Marijuana. In all a very jovial
atmosphere with tourists and locals (or local-ish) made for a fun last night
before we headed back for a cuppa… definitely the “oldies” of this group!
DONE!! A whole lot of biking (1400km) through 4 countries
over the last 6 weeks … but what a blast and an amazing experience 😊
The area of Thailand we have travelled through seemed to
have a lot of trees: eucalyptus (used for timber, scaffolding etc), rubber
trees, banana trees, tapioca plants and rice fields. The rice production small
fields, mechanised, but noticeably different to what we saw in Cambodia with
its vast fields.
