Edinburgh - Dunbar, 55 km
The rain has gone, for now...
9:15 am departure from the youth hostel and followed some quiet streets and walkways to get out of Edinburgh central very easily. Stopped at a bike/auto shop we passed and purchased a replacement bottle holder for one that had broken as well as a padded seat cover for Caro's bike to see if it helps the tender butt.
Hit the east coast and biked along the busy esplanade's through Portobello, then Musselbourgh and Seaton...rather familiar sounding names !! Being a weekend and a reasonable morning there were lots and lots of people out and about, walking dogs, biking, running etc. All lovely looking seaside towns.We also seem to be following "Scotland's Golf Coast" road for a while.
Turned inland at Longniddry and found a bakery/sandwich bar for lunch, a busy spot in a lovely little building near a railway station. From there we followed a rail trail pretty much all the way to the town of Haddington... a very pretty town of buildings from the 1700-1800's.
Then back onto quiet back roads to a stop at Hailes Castle. The castle was built around 1240, enlarged in the 1300/1400's then abandoned by the then owners in the 1700's for a more modern house elsewhere on the estate. Not so much of the original left although it is being investigated by archeologists and conservators of "Historic Scotland". The castle has associations with Mary Queen of Scot's and also Oliver Cromwell.
Cycled onward through the town of Linton, another pretty town, and visited the Preston Mill nearby. The last working water driven mill in an area that once had more than 40 mills on a 20 mile stretch of the River Tyne (small Tyne River). Now owned by Historic Scotland.
Our timing was perfect as we were able to join a guided tour through the mill, which was working minus the grain and associated dust!. The kiln building on the side of the mill looks like something out of Harry Potter, similar to an Oast house but because of subsidence it had been propped up over the years with stone walls which gives it a somewhat comical look.
A very interesting tour by a great guide. One aspect was the various sayings used even today in everyday language that derived from the old mills.
- Milling about - when the community came to collect their flour, and stood talking/catching up on gossip
- Daily grind - literally what it means, everyday the same operation to grind the grain
- Nose to the grindstone - the miller would smell the stone and would know if something was amiss
- Come to a grinding halt - end of day when they stopped the water flow to the wheel, it slowly stopped the whole mill operation
- Spanner in the works - literally if a major issue and they needed to stop the water wheel quickly, they threw a spanner into the sprockets
- Damsel in distress - the damsel was a small bell mounted on the shafts that sounded should something go out of balance
- Rule of thumb - gap between settings
- Show us your metal - the miller would ask to see the arms of the travelling tradesmen that came to sharpen items, the metal flakes from the sharpening would have embedded and discoloured the arms and hence prove how qualified they were
and others!
Back on the bikes and quiet roads and paved paths beside the more busy roads to arrive at Dunbar Beach and follow past a stunning golf course to Dunbar township. Our accommodation for the night is a newish hostel, housed in a 1700's building, which is now very high spec and decorated in a retro manner... all very nice and great helpful owner. All private rooms, with bathrooms shared between every 2 bedrooms.
After the obligatory shower and cuppa it was time for a walk before dinner. Close walkway down to the sea front then past Cromwell Quay to the harbour. A walled harbour at the end of which was the Dunbar Battery which was constructed 1803-1815 for the Napoleonic Wars, although not a shot was ever fired from it. In 1874 it became a hospital for infectious diseases, then an auxiliary hospital in 1914 for WWI soldiers. From then it had a brief stint as emergency housing until it was deemed unsafe for human occupation.
In the early 2000's it was repaired and reopened for display purposes.
From there it was a short stroll to the end of the harbour walls to look at the remains of Dunbar castle across from the harbour entrance. The castle, originally a fort in the 600's, was rebuilt in stone in 1071 and was then referred to as a castle. Over history it has had several battles for it's ownership, on 2 different occasions the Scot's damaged it so that the English couldn't use it.
In 1500 it was rebuilt by James IV and extended. 1567 the Scottish parliament ordered it's destruction as it's very strategic position caused issues... it finally met its demise permanently when blasting occurred to open the new entrance to the harbour. However it still serves a valuable hospitality role as home to hundred's of herring gulls.
Our visits to recommended pubs proved difficult with them being fully booked, and the queue for the fish and chip shop was out the door. So we resorted to a slightly off the wall burger joint, such delicacies as Spam burger, Bangers and Egg burger, Chilli con carne and nachos burger, triple meat burger etc, but the "normal" ones we got were delicious!
Our final stop for the night was the Black Agnes pub... our last night in Scotland so a celebration was needed. A long story with the name Black Agnes, the countess of Dunbar 1312-1369, who along with her maids and small handful of soldiers defended the castle from the English over a 5 month period whilst her husband was away on a work trip (ie fighting somewhere else!). An embarrassing defeat for the English.
But... back to the celebration... a wee dram was in order. After explaining to the friendly barmaid the reasoning, and our Scottish heritage not wanting to spend all our pennies, a very tasty Loch Lomond whiskey was enjoyed.
We have absolutely loved Scotland, the people and the scenery have not disappointed.... soraidh!
Sunday, June 16: Across the Border
Dunbar - Cheswick, 67 km
Left Dunbar 9 am after a self help breakfast at the hostel. Cycling close to the coast along road then cycle/walk path beside the railway line. Passing farmland, mainly crops of Barley and Potatoes which is about all we recognised. Later in the day it was Oats and some Oil seed rape as well. Cycled close by Torness nuclear power plant as well as thete being a wind farm in the distance.
Back onto road and wound our way down into Pease Bay, which is a surfing spot for Scotland so there were 4 or 5 hopeful surfers out... however it looked like very calm conditions. There was a very large static caravan park which seemed to fill the entire cove! Crossed a ford in the road before we had to climb back out of the bay... and it was steep so a lot of pushing of our steeds occurred. Once up the steep section it then turned into a very long climb but quite a gentle gradient for most of the remainder.
Once at the top there was another wind farm, this time with sheep grazing amongst it. We dropped down to the coastal town of Eyemouth just as some rain was starting. Eyemouth is built around a harbour so a fishing village... although we didn't sight see much. Lunch, and toilet stop (as the public loo's all seemed to be out of order or locked) was higher on the priority list and a handy cafe did the trick!
A climb out of Eyemouth, in multiple stages, via farmland of sheep, cattle and crop. Travelling through the Border area and the agriculture appears to be more intensive than what we have largely seen (although parts north of Inverness looked very intensive also so a broad statement!). Sheep all shorn and some properties at an obviously higher stocking rate. Lots of lovely rolling country, although it was raining lightly so didn't dawdle to admire for too long.
We arrived at Berwick-upon-Tweed, a coastal town at the mouth of the Tweed river. An impressive rail viaduct completed in 1850 as well as remnants of the city wall. Also a castle ruins but we missed that as it was "off piste" a little. Being a border fortress town it had see-sawed between English and Scottish rule for centuries... although the Engish won out and it has been in their territory since 1482.
Because of the rain we didn't explore too much, but did find a cafe with cake!! Due to the fact, although we have no photographic proof, that Noel spotted a sign yesterday suggesting for every 1 hour biking a person deserves one piece of cake... most days we are biking for 5 hours.... ummm?
Left the town/city over one of their impressive bridges, passed the port and then following the coast. A coastal path this time, rougher gravel which turned into a grass track before back onto sealed private road then paved path. The lighter rain of the day has turned heavier, but not cold.
Deviated off the route to bike up to our hotel for the night, a pub more or less in the middle of nowhere but it is located beside the busy A1 highway hence it's location. 6.5 km from Berwick it is called "The Island View" and yes, if you peer into the distance amongst the clouds, and around some trees, you get a glimpse of the Holy Island of Lindisfarne... our destination tomorrow morning, tide dependent...
Good to get here and out of the rain, although it hasn't been too bad. A very welcoming host and a decent pub meal so lovely... and it is ideally placed for our plans so perfect. The sun is forecast for tomorrow.
As we have been cycling over the last couple of days there has been some quite impressive stone walls by the road... we can't always see what lurks behind but do know there must be some huge houses/mansions/castles... landowners of the past and maybe still the same families.
Getting directions!
Monday, June 17: Tides wait for no man...
Cheswick - Seahouses, 51 km
Our bikes are packed and ready to go before breakfast at 8:30 am (hotel didn't do any earlier) as we are on a schedule this morning to cross the causeway to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne before 10:20 am.
A quick downhill section to rejoin the coastal grass path along the sea front. We did miss a turn however just after crossing a wetland bridge so ended up pushing the bikes on an uneven, very squishy underfoot, walking trail.
Easily made the cut off time, as the tide comes in it covers the causeway that links the island to the mainland. The judgement is however left to self determination, no manned control or lights, or barriers of any sort. BUT... there is videos of people being badly caught out if they misjudge!
Lindisfarne/Holy Island has a recorded history from the 6th century AD as an important centre of Celtic Christianity under Saints Aidan and Cuthbert. Originally home to a monastry founded in 634, which was destroyed in the 800's by a Viking invasion. It was rebuilt in 1150.
There is also a castle on the island built in the 1500's as a fort by the English to keep the Scot's at bay. It's need declined when the 2 countries joined in 1707. It was subsequently utilised as a coastguard lookout before once again becoming unused. A private individual purchased the property and did substantial renovations to make it a holiday home. It is now owned by the National Trust and is a popular attraction.
Although it was meant to be a lovely sunny day by the time we left the castle light rain was falling. Lunched in a cafe and wandered the village a little as we waited for the tide to drop at Iabout 2 pm. No problem with our exit, although yes the tide had definitely been over the causeway! Interesting to see coastal walkers crossing the mudflats, there is a shelter on poles halfway across in case they get caught out... but why wouldn't they just follow the road???
Following cycle route #1 on undulating roads through farmland of mainly cropping, although some sheep and cattle were spotted.
We arrived in the village of Bamburgh for a look at Bamburgh Castle... and you can hardly miss it! A very dominant feature on the coast it started life as a fort also. After it was destroyed by the Vikings in 993 a new castle was built in the 1100's, part of which still stands today. In 1894 the castle was purchased by William Armstrong, a victorian industrialist who did a complete restoration. It remains in Armstrong family ownership with the fifth generation now living there.
We walked around the base of the castle, including along the beach. Very impressive! From there a quick bike to the town of Seahouses which is where we are staying tonight. A lovely meal overlooking the harbour of Seahouses, although you would hardly describe it as a pretty town due to a bit of a mish-mash of building ages and architecture.
During our cycling today we spotted seals off the coast, as well as a roadkill badger.
Sand... Castle (Bamburgh)
Tuesday, June 18: Coast and Castles continued...
Seahouses - Amble, 44 km
Left the lovely, and very efficiently run, by a young family, B and B about 9:15 am after waiting a while for the rain to stop as was forecast, which it did once on the road.
Riding through farmland, still mostly cropping of barley, wheat, oilseed rape. We are following the suggested Coast and Castles route through Northumberland and it is stunning!! Like all the cycle routes it is largely on quiet B roads in combination with paved and unpaved paths of varying surface, lots of fun!
A very quick stop at Pele Tower an original Preston House with 2 turrets built for protection/defence and a residence in 1415. Following the beginning of a potential England/Scotland union in 1603 half of the tower house was demolished as a sign of peace time and goodwill. The clock in the remaining standing tower was installed in 1864.
After a couple of stops at railway crossings... a lot of trains passing through, a chap we talked to yesterday said a London bound train departed Edinburgh every 30 minutes, and vice versa, plus all the regular commuter trains etc... we arrived at Dunstan Steads, one of the access points to Dunstanburgh Castle. We however decided to ignore that access point and cycled on to the town of Craster instead.
We parked up the bikes (ie, put them through the pedestrian only gate and locked them to a fence) and walked via fields of sheep, along with lots of other people, to Dunstanburgh Castle (ruins). First established in 1313 by Thomas Earl of Lancaster on an existing fort site, predominantly for protection but also as an ostentatious showing of wealth and influence. Didn't do the Earl much good though as he was executed in 1322... perhaps there is a lesson there for some in society!!
The castle was deteriorating by the 16th century and was sold from the Crown to private ownership in 1604, and was described as becoming "increasingly ruinous" throughout the centuries. During WWII in 1939 it became an observation post and is now owned by the National Trust.
It is quite a spectacle on a stunning coastline and well worth the visit. We lunched in Craster, but not on a famous Craster Kipper.... cause they gotta have 'em in Texas....
Turning into a nice day, jackets off even, which was great. Route for a while followed a coastal walk path which at first was a muddy, puddled, manure carting farm track complete with the smells of the country! It turned into a better track after plunging to a sea cove, across a swing bridge and back up. Onto road and path once more beside the road to Warkworth. Stop at a cake shop for fortification (remember one for every hour) then a walk around Warkworth Castle.
A ruined medieval castle whose age is somewhat indeterminable but likely during the 1100's. Originally a timber structure and considered "feeble" so it was left undefended when the Scot's invaded in 1173.
Over the years however it was strengthened and enlarged into an imposing structure. By 1550 it once again had fallen into disrepair although there was still timber and furnishings for the local population to pillage. As the English/Scottish amalgamation became formalised the castle was largely abandoned and any effort went into maintaining the nearby Alnwick Castle. Warkworth Castle is now managed by English Heritage although it is still officially owned by the Percy family, the 12th Duke of Northumberland is the lastest in the family line of ownership since 1377.
We had debated about also visiting Alnwick Castle but it was slightly off our track... and every km is precious!! No, it actually sounds lovely, is still lived in etc, but is somewhat overrun by tourists, and a reasonably high entrance fee, as it is known as the Harry Potter Castle. Since the movies the visitor numbers jumped from 200,000 a year in 2006 to 600,000 in 2016!!). It does however provide such entertainment as Broomstick Flying lessons which did nearly sway our opinion until we read it was for under 13 year olds. Although this trip has likely changed our appearance we don't think it is in that direction sadly...
3 or 4 km more saw us arrive at our accommodation in the seaside town of Amble. A hostel where we were met by a lovely receptionist who showed us all the facilities then pronounced... "right, since you are the only guests I am off home now, enjoy your night".
We were somewhat dumbfounded, the only guests in a 3 year old, 3 story complex capable of sleeping 50 to 60 people. A lovely building overlooking a picturesque marina, fantastic facilities of large lounge, huge kitchen, fully equipped bike storage workshop (which Noel utilised) ... amazing although slightly spooky at the same time as being surreal. Bonus of being able to use a washing machine and get it all dry super quick in the upstairs boiler room.
Fish and Chips for dinner as this is our last night on the east coast of the UK for this trip. Eaten in the hostel after buying at a traditional, and very popular, chippie shop who proudly proclaim "all our products are cooked in beef dripping"
The Northumberland coast is very scenic and lovely riding. The islands off the coast have different bird populations, including Puffin's, so are popular with a couple of port towns having busy tour boat operations in place. Given the ride is branded Coast and Castles it has been fun, and we made the most of being able to visit the castles whilst it is still not peak tourist season.
