Amble - Corbridge, 70 km
8:30 am departure with the bikes all washed and serviced and rearing to go... well, they are almost rearing when going up hill with the loaded panniers...
We are angling inland and away from the coast... the Coast and Castles route continues a little more down the coast to finish at Newcastle-upon-Tyne. We have made the executive decision to avoid the busyness of Newcastle city at the expense of missing a small section of the end of the Coast and Castles, and also a small start section of our next route which is the East coast to West coast Hadrian's Wall route. This will be the third time for the trip we have crossed coast to coast from the East to the West!
Wound our way on quiet roads, except during school run hour which we struck on the outskirts of Amble. We also got stopped at a rail crossing for 2 passenger trains to whizz by. We took the opportunity whilst we were stopped to remove jackets and just as we were ready to set off again... the barrier dropped again and 2 more trains whizzed by! A busy line obviously.. all the trains we are seeing are passenger, have yet to note a freight train. The farmland is mainly cropping, some huge farmhouses/shed complexes.
We stopped at Bolam Lake Country Park, a lake and walking trail woodland area that was designed and built by a landscape architect in 1816 for the landowner of Bolam estate. The landowner wanted to provide work for the local populace during a period of economic decline... so they built the lake over 3 years and then all in the community were allowed to enjoy its amenities.
Not far from here we visited Belsay Hall, castle and gardens. The castle was built in 1370 as a 3 story castle with Pele Tower for defence. Owned by the Middleton family that owned Belsay estate. In 1614 a manor house was added to the castle before the complex was abandoned in the early 1800's. This was because the then owner, Charles Monck (who was married to a Middleton), wanted to build Belsay Hall following his impressions whilst spending 2 years honeymooning in Greece... all right for some! (thought he had to have a pita that...) (Editors note:... oh dear, our Apollo-gies for that).
Once built the hall was used as the family residence and remained as such for the Middleton family until 1962, at which stage dry rot was becoming a problem (the house, not the family).
The hall and adjoining stables had been requisitioned during WWII, which actually sped up the deterioration. Now the hall still looks good on the bottom floor but the top floors are all gutted and are a no-go zone. As it is so eloquently described the hall is officially "maintained in a condition of benign decay"
The land between the Hall and the old castle was a huge stone quarry where the stone for the buildings came from. One of the Middleton stewardships planted some notable trees in this area and then successive generations continued to plant around the quarry area... making a Rhododendron dell along with extensive terraced gardens and a croquet pitch.
Our visit was a very enjoyable way to fill in an hour or two and break the day's ride. The wealth that existed in those times is mind boggling really. All these estate houses have a village nearby that would have housed the staff. The Middleton family still own the estate, whilst it is managed by English Heritage.
As we are cycling through the countryside it is becoming noticeable how many of the old stables and farm buildings have been converted to housing, obviously reasonably recently.
We hit some head wind as the day progressed and we continued to ride through farmland on undulating quiet roads to reach our nights stop at Corbridge, a town on Hadrian's Wall. The roadsides as we are riding are becoming noticeably tidier as many have been mown rather than wild growing. Staying in an AirBnB room in a family home, which is a lovely setup. Dinner at a nearby recommended pub. Corbridge is a lovely town with the town square situated just beside the River Tyne.
Both of us got a bit of sun/wind burn today... apart from the days in Inverness this is probably the first day that it has been possible.
Thursday, June 20: Couldn't conquer the blue sky....
Corbridge - Haltwhistle, 39 km
After a lovely breakfast (unusual for an AirBnB to provide breakfast, despite the name!) we were on the road by 9:15 and rode to the Coria Roman Fort some 2 or 3 km's out of Corbridge. Sat in the sun and were the first visitors for the day through the door at opening time of 10 am.
Whilst not directly part of Hadrian's Wall this fort was one of a series of forts that the Roman Army built from 85 AD, in order to protect vital crossroads and a bridge over the River Tyne. The fort was abandoned by the army in 200 AD but continued to be the base for a town for over another 250 years.
A number of artifacts have been recovered from the site and are housed in the on-site museum. The original fort would have been timber but was then built over with stone. Although the land now looks uneven it would have initially been flat. The excavation done shows how drainage had been done, granaries with raised floors, a bath house site in a paddock beyond etc... they had all the mod-cons.
A very interesting visit before we rode on to the town of Hexham some 6 km's away. Hexham Abbey is the most notable building, built as a monastry in 674, the crypt of which survives and incorporates many stones taken from nearby Roman Fort sites... possibly the Corbridge fort and/or Hadrians Wall itself. The current building dates from 1170-1250 and is a massive structure... with the organ playing when we visited it certainly had a sombre but stately atmosphere.
Lunched near the town square and then retrieved our bikes from their Tesco supermarket parking spot. Quite a lengthy hill of some 5-6 km then ensued before we dropped rapidly to Vindolanda, a bigger Roman Fort that is undergoing further archeological excavation over time. We didn't visit but just peered over the fence at it... a very popular site with lots of tourists wandering around.
It was a climb out of there to arrive at a road intersection that had a little rental car stopped with a flat tyre and 2 puzzled ladies. A chance for Noel to put his hero cape on, leap off his bike and prove it is not just bike tyres he specialises in!! The 2 US ladies were the support crew for a USA scout group that are walking Hadrian's Wall, and were very, very grateful for the help.
Another 12 km to our nights accommodation at the town of Haltwhislte, down, up, then down, up... passing silage being harvested and one herd of dairy cows. Although this section of cycling is the Hadrian's Wall route... we are yet to see the actual wall!... does it exist or is it an elaborate tourist scam?
Friday, June 21: Another brick in the wall...
Haltwhislte - Bowness-on-Solway, 69 km
No breakfast was provided today by our apartment this morning so it was a little tricky getting our muesli mix into cups... but needs must. On the road, and path, by 8:30 with our first photo stop being the Thirwall Castle ruins from a distance before onwards looking for the elusive wall... which we found.
Hadrian's Wall is a former defensive fortification for the Roman province of Britannia, construction begun in AD 122 in the reign of the Emperor of Rome Hadrian. Running from the east coast of England, at Wallsend, for 170km across the width of the country to the west coast at Bowness-on-Solway. It was a stone wall with large ditches in front and behind with soldiers garrisoned in the large forts along the line of the wall. In addition to the wall's defensive role it may have also been used as a customs barrier. Principally erected to stem the marauding raiders who lived in the northern, unconquered, Caledonia lands.
We had a great stop at Birdoswald Roman Fort, it is one of the best preserved forts along the wall and is also attached to one of the longest stretches of remaining wall. The fort was occupied AD 126 - 400 and the wall was originally turf but was upgraded to rock around AD 130.
This is the only site on the wall where a significant unbroken sequence of occupation after the Romans departed, has been proven. There are still excavations happening outside the fort wall and we were lucky enough with our timing to be able to take part in a tour explaining what was happening. Along with the regular tour guide there was also great information given by an Archeology Professor from Newcastle University who had students digging out a bathhouse area. It has been an ongoing project for 4 years and he advised that in 3 weeks time after the students leave the whole site will be covered over again!! It is too impractical to try and leave it exposed and preserve it so it will be recorded forever in minute detail but once again will be returned to below ground!
A large house/castle had been built on the site in the 1800's, the then owner had done initial excavations after finding walls as he was digging gardens... little did he know the extent of what lay underground.
We carried on to Brompton where a queue outside a butchers/pie shop looked promising... and we were proved right with yummy pies for lunch. From there an up and down ride of 30 kms to reach Carlisle. The route took us right beside Carlisle castle so it would have been rude not to visit.
The castle was built from 1012, upgraded to stone construction 1122 and became the centre of war and invasions following. 1745-6 it was the last English fortress to undergo a siege. After this time period it became neglected with some parts being demolished and/or converted into army barracks. With new buildings added the castle actually remained a depot of the border regiment until 1959. We had a very quick look, mainly around the ramparts, as it was closing for the day.
Struck a bit of road competition, congestion, getting out of Carlisle as it was 5pm and then a slog into a head/cross wind to get to Bowness-on-Solway. Quite an interesting ride as it traverses tidal flats, the road can flood in exceptionally high tides so is signposted with frequent warnings and some shelter spots. There was a Peacock wandering on the road in one of the villages... not sure of its chances in rush hour traffic!
Bowness (as the name is shortened to) is a coastal village with Scotland just over the Solway tidal inlet... in fact the inlet, although wide, was bridged to connect the 2 into the late 1800's. A railway viaduct was opened in 1869 but was susceptible to damage from floating ice, so after high repair and maintenance requirements it was closed in 1921.
The village is frequented, particularly by walkers who are traversing coast to coast along the wall, as being near the western start point of Hadrian's Wall. The physical wall did start here, but also Roman defensive towers continued down the coast to Maryport.
Saturday, June 22: Coast end...
Bowness-on-Solway - Maryport, 58 km
A start in hot pleasant weather at 9:30 am and followed both coastal and slightly inland, mostly quiet, roads. Biking through farmland... a lot of crop; wheat, barley, oats, oilseed rape and maize/corn. The still small corn is planted in rows of plastic covered ground, for faster growth we are guessing. Not sure if the crop is for human or animal consumption. We had noticed the same system in Scotland also. A small amount of stock grazing, cows and sheep, and a lot of sheds with dairy cattle inside. Also lots of silage/baleage being made... tis the season.
We stopped for lunch in Silloth, a cute port town and a good example of a Victorian seaside resort. The sea frontage/promenade was concrete stepped right along.. but with a cold wind coming up and the tide coming in and turning the sea a shade of brown it sadly didn't look very appealing! Silloth is a relatively young town established in the 1860's to replace Port Carlisle as the deep sea port due to silting at Carlisle.
Also some ex RAF bases here, the huge hangers now being used as commercial premises and/or shedding.
Continued on through farmland and along a coastal pathway. The tide was now well in and obviously a good kite surfing destination as there was a lot out trying their best. However it still didn't look that appealing mainly due to the cold wind (so much for the hot start to the day). A reliably windy area as there is a large wind farm out in the Solway firth, called Robin Rigg, which is Scotland's first offshore wind farm constructed in 2009/10. Scotland certainly looks close!!!
Tonight we are in the coastal town of Maryport after arriving by riding along the lengthy paved promenade. The town was originally established in 122 AD as a command and supply base for the western extremity of the Hadrians Wall defensive line. No wall existed down this far on the coast but rather a series of towers and small forts... since christened "fortlets" (certainly sound cute?, hard to tell as not much left of them).
Our hotel tonight isn't quite as old as the town but certainly portrays an aged appearance! But cheap, clean, super friendly staff and our steeds tucked away in a corner of the dining room.... what more does one need!
We seemed to be in a headwind today, although shelter was provided in a lot of places due to gorse beside some of the roadside paths, so a bit harder work. Staying in a cheap and cheerful pub, we wonder how some of these places keep going as they need a lot of maintenance and are not very busy... but certainly clean and adequate.
Also noticing the drivers are becoming a bit less patient than the Scottish drivers, still courteous but their passing is a bit quicker and less concerned about oncoming traffic etc. We have been told it will change even more as we head south... time will tell, we will just remember not to end up on the M1.
