Saturday, June 8: Just Killin time...
Pitlochry - Killin, 65 km
Although we have already followed some Lochs and Glens (at the start of our trip riding the Great Glen Way/Caledonian Way from Inverness to Oban) this next few days of riding is officially known as "The Loch and Glens Way"... or NCN 7 on the national cycle routes, although overlapping with other NCN routes as well (77).
We hit the breakfast area of the hostel at 7 am thinking we would be the first ... but there was a large French school (last year students probably) group on some sort of field trip eating/attempting to clean dishes etc so it was all a bit hectic. But they obviously had a 7:30 am deadline as it suddenly all turned to calm!
On the road by 8:30 am and headed west along the hills above the town whilst glimpsing back at a castle on the other side. Wound our way through woods and forestry to come out onto road at Ballinluig. We followed the Tay river to Dunkeld, in a head wind, where we crossed the river again and headed for the hills. As we were mainly in wooded area we were largely sheltered from the wind, but it was still very cold. A pleasant ride through clusters of housing, and some very big estate houses in the hills. Not too sure what constitutes a castle but some of the homes are huge, and seem to have been scattered everywhere in Scotland.
Stopped in the town of Aberfeldy for some morning tea, found most of the cafes only had cakes and pastries or a full breakfast until 12 noon... but luckily, and oddly, found one that served soup and bread from 10:30... ideal given we needed a warm up.
As it was a Saturday there was a couple of different outside wedding venues set up... very agricultural, at least one of the partners at both weddings must have been farmers, with decorated tractors and/or haybale effigies of bridal party.
Briefly stopped outside Menzies Castle, a 16th century castle, to take some long range photos. This castle was voted Scotlands 3rd best castle in 2023. The seat of the Menzies clan for over 500 years it was rescued from ruin in 1957 by the Menzies Clan Society and now looks very restored... at least from a distance. From there we continued on, passing a very impressive looking Castle Menzies Farm yard.
Next stop was at Kenmore at a pub/restaurant and deli shop.. Deciding we needed an energy boost we chose the restaurant with a big sandwich and coke to boost our weary legs.
This was just as well as it was a long "undulating" stretch from there to Killin. We were on the south side of Loch Tay on a quiet road, riding past a lot of housing including obviously lots of holiday cottages. We saw a reasonable number of bikers on this section of road, going both ways.
Arrived, gladly, at Killin around 4:30 pm, dropping down off a hill to discover our hotel right on the corner... yay!! Staying at the Falls of Dochart Inn, a pub right opposite the Falls on the Dochart River, and very impressive they are too. Obviously a day trippers attraction as the village was humming when we arrived but a lot quieter in the evening.
A good day, although challenging in the wind, but we didn't get wet as potentially forecast and dodged a lot of the wind due to riding in the shelter of the wooded areas.
We went for a walk around Killin before dinner at the pub, a lovely town although there were lots of empty shops which were probably a victim of COVID and a tourist downturn... and have never re-opened. Following dinner we went back out for a quick walk to have a look at another stone circle located in a farm paddock. This is reportably the best example of a 6 stone ring in Perthshire, again 4000-5000 years old so pretty mind boggling.
Off to sleep hoping the rain stays away tomorrow, as we have quite a distance to do.
Sunday, June 9: The uphill climb is slow, but the downhill road is fast
Killin - Drymen, 70 km
The rain seems to have cleared and the day is looking brighter. Away from the hotel around 9:15 am, we had hoped for an earlier start but unfortunately the hotel did not start breakfast until 8:30 am.
Riding started on an old railway line before climbing up forestry roads, up and up, then remarkably in the middle of the forest a single tarsealed path appears to get us up and over the last bit of hill before getting on an old railway line track.We dropped down to the Lochearn area which looked lovely from above, we didn't go down into the village of Loch Earnhead as it would have been an extra detour. As we did this whole section we were leapfrogging with a downhill Mountain biker who was on his way up to a mountain peak, it was hare and tortoise stuff with us being the tortoise!!
The ride down was in forest and woodland and had a lot of signs just put up for an event, but luckily we worked out we were ahead of the start time. Went past farmland as well as several lochs.. Loch Earn, Loch Lubnaig and after lunch Loch Vunachar, Loch Drunkie as well as the Muir Park reservoir.
On Loch Lubnaig was a forest holiday park and cafe, which was a perfect stop for lunch and saved a 3 km detour into Callander to find some food. From there it was riding on paved trail and then 1 km of road before getting onto a private road along the shores of Loch Venachar.
It was then a lot of climbing on a one-way forestry park road, the cycle route was in the opposite direction to the traffic which was lucky as it was quite a busy road being a nice Sunday afternoon... lots and lots of people out and about to go hiking etc, easy driving distance from Glasgow for example. We found a perfect spot beside the reservoir for a cuppa, but as soon as we stopped and pulled out the cups a van pulled up, music blaring and lots of laughter etc then a group got out and proceeded to set themselves up beside the reservoir with bags of firewood etc... must have been planning to stay for the evening. We on the other hand had places to go, another hill to climb and descend, so it was a pretty quick cuppa and off we went.
Leaving the reservoir area we descended towards Aberfoyle and the tracks and surrounds through the forest were a hive of activity. Mountain bikers, ropes course, water activities and walkers out and about. Aberfoyle village itself was a mass of people with lots eating ice cream on what is a nice Sunday.
There is a Scottish Wool Centre shop and deli as a main attraction in the town, although we were too late for the sheep demonstrations, the sheep just being moved back to their overnight field, we did see most. The resident runner ducks were providing dog practice for the Centre's shepherd which provided a spectacle in itself. We did however manage to score a cake at the cafe, an "Eiffel Tower" cake... which looked and tasted suspiciously like a Lamington... yum.
This was much needed sustenance as we still had 28 km of reasonably hilly distance to go to our night in Drymen. Turned into quite an effort, one hill in particular required a bit of bike pushing... a very steep country lane.
Arrived at our hostel, Kip in the Kirk, and were greeted warmly by host Frances with tea and scones... delicious. Drymen is on the West Highland Way, a very popular walking route, as well as intersects with the NCN 7 cycle route which a lot of bikers use if doing the Lands End to John O Groats length of country ride. The hostel can accommodate up to 20 people, the majority staying one night, and all greeted with tea and scones... service above and beyond in a lovely repurposed old church.
Lovely dinner at one of the local pubs, and if we were more energetic we could have called in at the other pub for a spot of line dancing... Noel was tempted!!
We saw a lot of day cyclists today, some with e-bikes (although they are not as common as in NZ), as well as a couple of longer distance bikers. Lots of walkers too, a combination of a Sunday and nice weather, as well as getting close to major population areas. Everyone very polite about giving room when met, or passing. Especially the dog walkers, and every second person has a dog in the UK, who have their dogs on leads and/or under 100% control.
Sadly we think we have probably passed through most of the red squirrel country now and although lots of trees, and signs warning to slow down for squirrels, we have only seen maybe one in the distance and a couple of road kill ones. Scotland has 75% of the UK red squirrel population, due to large areas of conifer forest. Apparently best seen 3-4 hours after sunrise or 2-3 hours prior to dusk... but nope, none spotted. Also chances are likely reduced for us seeing them due to the long days!! It seems like daylight all the time!
Monday, June 10: By the bonnie, bonnie banks of..
Drymen - Glasgow, 57 km
We departed from the lovely Kirk around 9:15 with the promise of a nice day ahead. Wound our way through the countryside; big houses, dandelion and buttercup plants on mostly stock-less fields. Arrived in Balloch via Balloch Castle and country park. This is a 200 acre park at the southern tip of Loch Lomond. The castle was built in 1808 using stone from an earlier nearby, 1238 built, castle. The current castle is derelict although largely complete, and is awaiting funds for repairs and renovations.
We were in the castle carpark, in one of our frequent mis-mothered states and discussing which direction to go, when an older gentleman came up and offered directions. He had lived in the cottage down by the lake as a child for 3 years during 1951-54 and had worked on the castle grounds all his adult life. His father had been employed as a carriage driver... although carriages must have been becoming obsolete by the early 50's. He told us to visit the cafe by the lake, which was the cottage he and 8 others in his family had lived. We did find it although the cafe was closed, it was a tiny cottage for 9 people! It is right on the shore of Loch Lomond with a view of Ben Lomond in the distance... although to be honest we were a bit unsure which one it was, although got it in the end we think!
As we rode into Balloch township we chatted to a couple of Australian women as we crossed the bridge on our way to a cafe lunch. Balloch doesn't seem like much of a tourist town although there is a Tour of the Lake boat running from there.
From there we followed river and canal paths pretty much all the way into Glasgow. Nice flat easy riding, but still quite cold with a threat of rain about. Reasonably fast riding following NCN route 7 via the lesser highlights of Glasgow's industrial and residential areas.
Arrived at the Youth Hostel by 3 pm, which is located in a premium terrace location overlooking Kelvingrove Park. The carparks in front of all the neighbouring houses have Jaguars, Ferrari's, Porsche etc lined up... our trusty steeds felt right at home! Spread over 2 addresses the hostel started life as high end townhouses, before going through a period as a hotel and then purchased by the Scotland Hostelling group. It is a bit of a rabbit warren inside with stairs and corridors leading all directions... but with a view over the park from our room we are not complaining.
Following a bit of sorting, and freshening up, we wandered to and through the botanic gardens although the glass house etc was just closing for the day. We did think a walk through the "Roses of the World" garden would be interesting... but found it seemed to be all climbing/rambling roses all intertwined and trimmed with a hedge trimmer!! Hardly any flowers are showing. A lot of the other garden plots also seemed to be embracing the wild garden theme, not weeded and one particular bed was a stunning display of California Thistle!! So hardly a memorable garden visit, but good to have a look around.
We sought out a pub for dinner (a skill we are working hard at honing to perfection) following which we found the renowned Ashton Lane which although not large is very cute looking mainly full of bars and a boutique movie theatre. On the way back to the hostel before we went through Kelvingrove Park we passed by the University of Glasgow buildings. Very impressive buildings and the proud statement over the gate that the University has been teaching Glasgow since 1456!!
Made use of the hostel laundry facilities as we had been counting down to our arrival for that purpose.
