3 June
A 15km walk today (approximately).
Buffet breakfast which was nice and catering for westerners as well: muesli, yoghurt and breads provided. There
was fish (gingered sardines) if one so wanted and/or felt you were missing out!
Notable that the same American chap, and his partner, had perhaps thought they must have had protocol wrong after last nights clothed Onsen as they turned up wearing full Yukata gowns... which is not done in the mornings and they were the only ones in a buffet breakfast room full of 40 people! (don't worry, we almost did the same thing at our first night before realising in time).
Out the door of the hotel to catch the pre-arranged
taxi which took us to top of hill and cutting out about 4-5km of walking for us
(recommended by tour company). Started following track from small settlement of Togue,
after an initial false start on wrong turn, no English signs on this part of the Nakasendo
Trail so we were a little unsure for the first 20 minutes or so. This is last
piece of the Nakasendo we will do, and as per the literature it is very much
the most un-developed hiking we have done for the trip… quite a basic route in
places.
No rain for the day, with temperatures rising as
day progresses to be quite hot. We wound out way down the hill, part way through
there was an abandoned settlement. Included a rusted out bus parked up, old
school buildings rusting into the ground. Part of the track was obviously a
road and through a village previously but very much becoming overgrown. The roading walls
still obvious.
Saw a group or 4-5 monkeys high in the trees at
one point, but they were very wary of seeing us. Walked out of the bush as we
reached civilisation, and through an old railway tunnel which was semi-lit.
Part way through I scratched an itch at sock level and was shocked to discover
something biting.. flicked it off and then once out of the tunnel and in
sunlight we had a “trouser inspection” to find 4-5 slug like things on our
pants… Leeches!!!
I had 2 bites, Noel none.. but he found one inside
trousers at about knee level and 3-4 on his shoes… yuk.
Continued down the disused rail track to another
town called Yokokawa, waited at the station for an hour for train to take us to
Takasaki. 34 minutes later through housing and quite a few industrial areas,
then from there a bullet train to Omiya then transfer to a different bullet train
to Utsunomiya. Then onto a slow train to Nikko… a big day of multiple train
trips (but covering big distances very fast at times). We arrived at Nikko
around 5pm.
Nikko is a tourist town with wide streets and footpaths,
and lots of temples, and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We walked to our
ryokan, around 30minutes walk. A lovely place (older) by a clear river which is
the Yukawa River. The ryokan is called Tsurukame Daikichi, a lovely Onsen and a
nice meal… slightly ordered in delivery but no English menu so a bit of a
puzzle.
The first for today were the leeches, we have done a lot
of travel in the last 2 days. Tomorrow we bus a short distance into Nikko
National Park to stay for 2 nights which will be nice.
4 June
Offered a choice of meat for breakfast, 3 types of
fish or horsemeat.. choose one… and guess what, neither of us chose horse.
Leaving our bags at reception we walked across the
road to the World Heritage site, a large area of temples and shrines dating
back to 1617. Lovely grounds of various shrines: a Shinto and Buddhist mountain
of worship. Very elaborate buildings including the Nikko Toshogu shrine which
had the stables of the 3 monkeys (see, hear, speak no evil). Also a carving of
a sleeping cat guarding the entrance to an inner shrine and the burial grounds
of Tokugawa Leyaru who died in 1868, and deemed as bringing peace to the warring
factions of Shoguns.
Lots of people about, including lots of school
groups.
Back to pick up our bags around 11:30am, caught
the bus to Ryuzumotaki up an amazing zig-zag road… 2 lanes both going up, there
must be a down road somewhere else!
Off the bus and hiking, first up was the Ryuzu Falls
(dragonhead falls) which were spectacular. Coming from the Yukawa River falling
210m down 10m wide terraces. Lots of people about, we followed the falls up via
steps before crossing road and followed trail through open bush and wetland
area of Nikko National Park.
Lots of track and people wandering through, we walked
through to the Yudaki Falls. An impressive 70m high 110m length waterfall
coming from the Lake Yudaki. Amazingly lots of people fishing in the river just
below the falls, and also in the lake above (boat and wading). The lake is reached
by 400m track via zig zag steps. The lake smells quite sulphury. We took the
shortest option of the lake loop walk to the town of Yumoto and to our ryokan
of Yumoto Itaya. Spotting 3-4 deer on the way into the township.
After reviving cuppa we walked the town which
appears to be totally all accommodation hotels. Again seeing quite a few very
quiet deer. It’s obviously a very big day visitor place with lots of car parking
and a boat hire business etc.
There is a ski field in the area too, described as
a small, wide sloped, family field. All the hotels are fed by the sulphur hot
springs which are bubbling up at the base of the hill behind the town.
5 June Monday
It’s nice to stay in the same place for 2 nights…and a
lovely spot for our walk wind-down with sulphur Onsen's.
Today we did the suggested 15km loop hike from Yumoto. The
hike promised lots of wildlife, deer and monkeys. Unfortunately we only saw
monkeys and that was at Izumiyadoike Pond rest stop….which we walked past
yesterday as well.
We wound our way past the source of the sulphur water and
sidled along Mt Mitsudaku, which was a volcano years ago, so hence it’s the
source of the hot springs. It was quite a steep climb and we were “tortoiseing
and haring” with a group of 4 chatty Japanese ladies.
We stopped at Lake Karikomi which is a lovely mountain
lake, then on past the 2nd
lake of Lake Karikomi, very picturesque. Then along past Nikko marshlands and
up 900m to the Sanno Pass. Then down to Kotoku which used to be a farmed area
but now all that is there is an ice cream shop selling 1 flavour of ice cream,
1 size of ice cream, and for 1 price ….very nice tho!!! There was also a nearby
hotel/Onsen resort.
After being advised by some kind tourists to look at the
flowers at the back of the buildings we continued on skirting what would have
been a paddock. Then followed the Sakasagava River back to the deer fenced ring
of Nikko park: lots more people there, bird watchers with huge cameras… prior
to that we had only met 3 others walking plus the group of 4 going the same
direction as us.
We walked through the park and arrived at Izumiyadoike Pond
where the monkeys were, then back onto yesterday’s trail for a while veering
off to see Kodoki Falls. Not super spectacular. Then back to Yudaki Falls and
along the left side of Lake Yunoko to be back at hotel by 3.30. A deserved
cuppa, Onsen and earlier dinner of 6pm.
It’s been a great place to stay with the sulphur pools, the
food a little less “out there” than some of our meals.. they are used to
western people although all Japanese people staying here both of the nights.
Overall the walking has been great, we have been very lucky
to have avoided the rain. Walking is mainly through trees of some sort and
mostly while some variety with the trees, marshland and the like. Probably
enjoyed the Nakasendo Trail bit better… although not sure.
The hotels and meals have all become a blur but we are
getting used to the food, although there is still a whole range of dishes we
are not sure what they are. The beds/floor mattresses (which magically appeared
whilst we dined, are comfortable… even if I am not sleeping that well (but
that’s me, Caro), Yukata’s to wear lots of fun. Hotel staff have all be really
good. Seems to be daylight by 4am at least, temperatures have been great for
walking.
It has been amazing to experience Japan this way, and has
thrown us in the deep end a bit… but in a very comfortable and easy way. We
have had colds, which has been unfortunate.. Caro about day 4, Noel about day
8, which has made it difficult in public, trains, buses and meal times etc due
to being heavy nose colds. Most Japanese are still wearing masks, even in the
National Parks, and are likely to be sensitive to 2 coughing and spluttering
westerners!! At least the colds haven’t prevented us doing anything, just added
an additional layer of challenge.
6 June Tuesday
Today was mostly a travel day. Left Nikko Yumoto on the bus
at 9am and travelled back to Nikko (where the G7 is meeting on June 24).. on
the bus trip we saw signs that we were on a “musical road” but couldn’t hear
it, although we had been told of one near Mt Fuji. It rewards you with a tune
if you adhere to the speed limit posted and listen (the tyres going over the
grooves make the tune). A bit of a wait in Nikko town and then at 21:10 the
train left for the Asakusa Station in Tokyo… a 2 hour train journey. During our
wait in Nikko we met and chatted to an Australian chap who we had seen a week
ago on a section (Turiltoga Pass) of the Nakasendo.
A change at Asakusa got us back to our Tokyo hotel around
3pm. After a cuppa we ventured out, first to Tokyo Station to activate our 7
day Japan Rail Pass.. it is a huge, huge station with multi levels and teeming
with people… without Noel and Google I think I would still be underground there
till this day!
From there we trained to Shibuya crossing, firstly getting
on the wrong train but realising and getting off before it left. This was about
4:30-5 so the trains and stations were getting very busy with commuters.
Shibuya crossing was very busy, lots of tourists in the area to view the worlds
busiest pedestrian crossing. We watched for a while from a Starbucks
overlooking the intersection.
It had started raining too so added to the spectacle with
umbrellas hoisted. Lots of western brand shops in the area. We found an English
pub (sort of.. a chain pub we think) and had pizza, chicken and chips… a nice
change!
Onto another cramped train through a frantic Shibuya
station, to travel to the Shinjuku area which is just a chaotic place. Full of
people, lights and entertainment.. probably not really in the mood and feeling
far too old to embrace it, but is was an eye opener… so many people! Again
western style shops, food, bars, pokies… frantic! We did poke our nose in a pet
store, puppies and cats with a pet café above, we didn’t go up but perhaps
something to try next time. With the rain getting heavier we just wandered a
little then back to the station.
Surprisingly got back to our hotel reasonably quickly for a
well earned cuppa. The train stations are so, so busy and trains crammed to the
max, amazing! Guessing for the worlds most populous city it has to be.
