One couple are serious cyclists along with a single chap, the rest appear more casual (like us!). Of the 12 there are 8 Aussies, 2 UK plus us. A mix of ages from 24 to at least 73.. should be fun. We meet at 8am in morning ready to embark on our stage 2 😊
Group names (for posterity!): Terri and Adrian (AUS), Margie and Mia (AUS), Fi and G (AUS/UK), Dave (UK), Mike, Kate and Phoebe (AUS) plus us…
Guides: Tatsumo (T), Tatsuya (mainly tail end), Ryuichi (van driver, trainee guide)
11 June, Sunday
40km riding. Kyoto to Kyoto loop.
First day of tour and its raining as predicted, 8am start with a bit of time as everyone is trying bikes/adjusting seats etc. Caro has a small frame but it should be OK. TREK Hybrid (FX2) bikes with smooth gear changes. 2 (maybe 3… more about that later) e-bikes on the tour.
Biked along a main street for a start, traffic lights splitting the group at times. Then along a river trail, a stop after about 10km for a toilet then slightly further to a well known coffee shop … a queue of people but guess that’s part of the attraction.
Viewed the Arahiyama buddha sculptures in a temple grounds nearby, 500 of them and within which you are meant to be able to spot one with your facial resemblance. Then we joined lots and lots of people to look at the Arashiyama Bamboo grove. A natural forest of bamboo which looks lovely and covers 16 sq km.
Cycled through rice and vegetable fields to stop at Ryoanji Temple, originally a country house that was acquired in 1450 by Hosokawa Katsumoto to use as a Zen training temple. Destroyed by fire and rebuilt in 1490, famed for its rock garden where there are 15 rocks amongst gravel. You can usually only see 14 rocks if you stay in one spot because of their positioning, apparently if you meditate you should be able to see the 15 in your mind? A busy place as well.
Then biked to a lunch spot, very busy with queues also. It was a Sushi train restaurant but also had a digital board where you ordered a range of items (dessert, drinks, main dishes). Your individual orders came whizzing along on the sushi train and stopped magically at your table. At the end of the meal you put all your plates down this little slot in the table… to disappear to who knows where! A jaw dropping fascinating place to have lunch!
Fortified it was back on the bikes and headed to the Kinkaku-ji Temple. Another Buddhist temple, the area is centred around a golden stupa Kinkaku, or 3 storied temple covered in gold leaf… quite spectacular. There were hundreds of people there and the whole serenity of the place was lost as you walked out via a whole lot of stalls selling stuff (tat!). Very commercial for a sacred place.
Cycling through streets back to the imperial palace, we however became 2 lost riders with one guide due to a traffic light holdup. Took about 15 minutes (and phone calls from our tail end guide as he was completely lost) to re-join with the group. A ride down the road of philosophy and a quick look around the Nanzen-ji temple area and aqueduct then back to the hotel.
The rain eased off around lunch time so it turned out not too bad. A great days riding through the city and beyond to be back home around 4:30pm. Tonight we met at 5:20 and taxied to the main shopping/eating/happening spot in Kyoto. Lots of old laneways, lots of bars and restaurants and lots and lots of people.
We had gone with the younger guide (van driver, guide in training) Ryuichi. A walk through the Geisha district, happened to spot one walking between restaurants, some very busy streets. Very old but obviously a main drag if you have a car to show off! 2 Maserati’s doing laps, a flash convertible Lexus, a Porsche etc… We split up for dinner with folk going 4 different directions, Noel and I wandered to temple at end of main street, the Osaka Shrine, then just wandered up and down tiny alleyways that all were very busy. Actually found a Ramen Noodle place to eat, nobody else initially but great fun… we are now a lot more confident with the “systems”!
Back to the hotel via shopping streets, all very busy and wonder why given it is a Sunday night! Finally managed time to do a machine wash so room has clothes hanging about to dry. A fabulous first day with a group of competent, but not overly so!, bikers. Terri had her 73rd birthday today.
12 June, Monday
53km, Kyoto to Nara (and train back to Kyoto)
Today was forecast for rain but only got a tiny bit towards the end of the day.
Today we biked to the town of Nara. Quite a fast bike pace set by the leaders, mostly on road paths… some on top of flood banks… and almost all tarsealed. 3 stops along the way, first just a toilet stop. Second amongst green tea plantations and where a retractable bridge crosses the river, which apparently has been in Samari movies, then another toilet stop and onto Nara for lunch.
It was a quick, paved, road and mostly flat… at one stage we were averaging 21km/hr and seems that is probably what it is most of the time. Guide Tatsumo (T) in front obviously then Phoebe who is young and fit being closely followed by her Mum and Dad on e-bikes! Definitely the pace makers.
Following a set menu lunch, Ryuichi took us to the Todaiji temple. A huge complex with lots of people visiting, including the obligatory school groups!!
The temple was a Buddhist centre built 738 CE, then after burning down was reconstructed in the 1700’s. It’s great buddha hall houses the worlds largest bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana; also known in Japanese as Daibutsu. Known as the headquarters of the Kegon school of Buddhism.. and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
A huge site of temples, gates and gardens with wild deer roaming around looking for feed from the people. Amazingly busy with people. The whole town had deer roaming around… after the temple we caught a train back to Kyoto to arrive back at the hotel just after 4pm. The bikes and other guides had already loaded the support van and headed through to Kanazawa where we head tomorrow… we will take our luggage with us on the train in the morning.
Anyway, 53km at pace on mainly flat riding seemed to go OK!
13 June, Tuesday
10km, Kanazawa city tour
8:30am start as Ryuichi marshalled us all to the train station via 3 stops on the subway, then onto an express train to Kanazawa which is a 2hr 20 min trip. During the trip we saw fighter jets circling, obviously a major airforce base (on the west coast… across the waterways will be Korea). Also spotted a huge buddha statue, Kagadaikannon which is 73m tall and built in 1988 as a centrepiece of a Buddhist themed amusement park! We had been advised to buy lunch and eat on the train before being met by the other 2 guides. Dropped our gear at the nearby hotel and started a city biking tour.
Kanazawa is the capital city of Japan’s Ishikawa Prefecture and has a population of around 500,000. Seems like a bustling tourist and shopping mall type of place. Kanazawa means “Marsh of Gold”… when a peasant was digging up potatoes they instead found flakes of gold! The city is renowned for it’s well preserved Edo area districts.
The train station itself was an amazing sight, a volcanic dome which looks like a huge umbrella and a wooden gate (Tsuzumi-mon) that represents hand drums (tsu zumi). As well as a fountain that gives you the time and welcome signs, all formed by the water flow. Impressive.
Our bike ride was around 10km with the first stop in the Samari district at a traditional Samarai house. Then through lanes and alleyways we went to Kenrokuen garden, originally the outer garden was Kanazawa castle. The garden was created in the 1800’s and named after a garden combining the 6 attributes of a perfect landscape garden: spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, watercourses and panoramas. Opened to the public in 1874 and a lovely place to wander.
Followed by a wander around the Geisha tea house district, 2 story buildings which were the only buildings allowed to be 2 story in Edo times. Lots of lovely boutique shops and gold leaf shops, Kanazawa produced 99% of domestic Japan’s gold leaf.
Cycling back towards the hotel we stopped at a couple of Shinto shrines and had them explained to us. There is male and female Shinto shrines apparently. Also demonstrated how to make a wish… with a 5 yen coin as it has both rice and water symbols on it, along with a hole in the middle.
Once back at the hotel it was a re-meet at 6:30pm for a briefing on tomorrow and then all out to a nearby shopping mall to find dinner. As we all headed different directions but many of the restaurants were already closing. Whilst walking about Fiona (Fi) pointed out a pancake place suggesting perhaps dessert there later… but then we discovered it was closing at 7:15, umh, they looked so good we took the naughty option for dinner… big fluffy pancakes covered in fruit, cream and ice-cream… YUM. Not sure if that is the ideal build up for tomorrows 80km ride, but ah well!!
14 June, Wednesday
80km, but lots of stops and reasonably flat
After leaving Kanazawa 8:15am it was 12km cycling mostly along river bank trails to first toilet stop. Shortly after we got the first sightings of the Sea of Japan. A short stop at a friendly bike shop yielded free drink bottles for everyone (a lovely gesture) then we followed the beach road cycle way which is a paved cycleway mostly running beside the main highway, sometimes weaving under the road and back.
Following a morning tea break we were able to cycle 8kms on the sand at Chirihama Beach on the Noto peninsula (which is the beginning of our cycle around the peninsula). Being weather and tide dependent we were lucky to strike it right, and it was quite amazing. As we cycled we were met and passed by numerous cars.. and a Harley Davidson motorcycle.
As we came off the beach there was some beautiful sand sculptures with an artist still perfecting one. We lunched at a restaurant there too, a large highway type restaurant and gift shop, lunch of pizza and ginger ale.
After lunch we continued on the beach side path, then veered off to visit Myojoji Temple. The head temple of the Nichiren Sect in the Hokuriku region of Japan. The temple was founded in 1294, the outstanding feature is a 5 story Pagoda along with a series of buildings. T attempted to give us some lessons in Buddhism. There was absolutely no-one else there until just before we left when a tour bus arrived. A stunning area.
Following quiet roads and paths we made our way up the coast, right beside the coast… a stunning rocky coastline with fishing villages. Sadly quite a lot of litter on the shorelines; fishing floats, rope and general sea rubbish.
Biked past Shika Nuclear Power Station and wind farms too.
Ended up the day in the town of Togi and at a small family run Ryoken Inn, our group making up all the guests. Shared facilities but all fine. A step down from our hiking Ryoken’s but still nice. A traditional Japanese meal, fish being the meat that featured… raw fish, whole river fish, grilled fish, mackeral and miso. Also birthday sponge as it was Mike’s birthday and Terri’s the other day. A nice finish to a long day and an early night too.
15 June, Thursday
55kms
Left 8:15am heading north after a stop at a Family Mart for snacks. Quiet roads past rice fields and slightly up and down terrain.
First stop was “the worlds largest bench seat” (although apparently it is not anymore!). Lovely coastline views and through a fishing and port area.’
A stop at Kadomi House.. a traditional house owned by a small cargo vessel wholesaler, built in the 1870’s. The village looked nearly deserted.. we are not entirely sure where everyone is?!??
Following a lunch stop in the quiet village of Monzenmachi we started biking again, only to immediately stop for an ice-cream! (literally less than 100m from lunch restaurant, but was “shouted” by our Intrepid guides so wasn't going to refuse!).
Then continuing on through country back roads and a long stretch uphill before going through a road tunnel with a bike lane on the side before a rewarding 3km downhill stretch. Early for our 3pm check-in at the town of Wajima… so a stop at a rocky outcrop along the coast before winding around the town a bit.
Hotel is a lovely modern complex, we are on the 7th floor looking over the sea. After an Onsen (mineral salt water) and a cuppa we headed out for a walk around the town before back to tomorrows briefing and dinner with Fi and G… great company!
Not feeling the effects of all the biking too much …. Yet!
16 June, Friday
80kms, with hills
Apparently heavy rain in the night, some people heard it on the roof…. Not us.
8am checked out then had a wander around the Wajima market… fish and lacquerware (chopsticks etc) and wee bit of pottery. Nothing small caught our eye.
Just as we started off riding it started raining, becoming quite heavy for 30 minutes or more. But then stopped and we dried very quickly as the sun came out.
Stopped at viewpoint Shiroyone Senmeida (1000 rice paddies in Shiroyone) which is rice fields cascading down the hill to sea level.. very impressive. Our next stop after this was at a salt farm that uses traditional salt making method called “Asehama style salt making”. The older man, owner of the family business, talked us through the process interpreted by our guide. He was a fun character and showed us how he could lift 2 buckets of salt water, of 40kg each, on his back from the sea to the road level… very entertaining!
A quick stop at a pottery shop, definitely not an item on our shopping list. Tonight we are in Suzu staying at a smart hotel right by the coast. Sitting in the Onsen gazing out at Mitsukejima (Found Island)… stunning location. The coastline is lovely, its just a shame there is so much rubbish.
A traditional Japanese dinner of lots of fishy things but lots of fun with the company of the group. I have a sunburnt neck tonight so I obviously missed the sunblock!!
An even more fascinating loo than normal, the lid opens and closes by itself and it also self-flushes.. haven’t worked out how it knows when to do that!!?
17 June, Saturday
78km
Already quite warm as we left Suzu at 8am, biking the coastal road and paths around the Noto Peninsula, quite undulating. First stop was a viewpoint then next at a giant squid shop/rest stop located in a lovely forested bay with some small squid fishing boats.
Wound our way through villages… a bit of a head wind at times so with the hills it was tough enough as the pace set was fast enough for us at least.
We did 70kms before lunch and then a 5km ride to the railway station… everyone was shattered. A 20 minute train ride and a quick shuttle ride to our accommodation by the sea. Hotel is 8 story older style but great. Traditional floor sleeping and our last Onsen for this trip, room had ensuite as well, along with traditional Japanese dinner and breakfast.
This has seemed like the hardest day riding, maybe just a cumulative effect, although the day was very hot with less stops.. we are interested to see how the next leg cycling goes (SE Asia). This tour has been pretty amazing really and we have done the big days easier than we thought we would.
Our bikes were dismantled and packed into van at the railway station, we will get them back for one days riding in Tokyo on Monday.
18 June: Sunday
After a traditional Japanese breakfast (which we won’t miss at all.. far too many choices first thing in the morning!!) Tatsumo got us through the train stations to Tokyo.. a local train for a start to Kanazau and then a bullet train to Ueno Station Tokyo. The hotel about a 10 minute walk away, perfect.
Went with T for a walking tour of Asakusa area, 9 of us, which was teeming with tourists… Japanese and Westerners… busy, busy, busy… rows of shops selling matcha ice-cream, frozen strawberries on skewers… and lots and lots of shops selling souvenir stuff/tat!
The number of people has us yearning for the coast again!
T did amazingly well navigating us through train stations/subways without losing anyone… although it was close at times!
By then it was about 5.30pm so instead of going back to the hotel as originally planned we split again with T taking 5 to Shibuyu and Shinjuku were we had gone 2 weeks ago. So we opted out and so did Fi and G… so we all wandered back to the hotel together… which was also a very busy nice vibe sort of place, more local feel. Found a restaurant and had dinner together, then a nightcap at the hotel. A fun evening.
19 June: Monday
Assembled at 8am for a Tokyo tour by bike.. our bikes lined up and waiting for us. We were led by Gucci… who we had met at Kyoto, and Tatsuya at the back with Ryuichi on an e-bike in the middle of the pack. Biked roads, bike lanes and bike paths… around Imperial Palace through to the Olympic Village area. Up a 25 floor City Hall type of building/tower for a city view.
Once past Olympic Village went over a bridge to one of the Tokyo islands, before following around waterfront and finally found a shopping mall with a (very large) Transformer character (Unicorn) standing at the front. An extremely busy place but we stopped there for lunch at a food hall… soba yakkis.
From there it was onwards over paved areas back to our crossing point then under the bridge to follow waterfront paths. Stopped at a park for an ice-cream then finally a brief stop near the Tokyo Sky Tree before arriving back at the hotel. Although Gucci was the day’s tour leader he didn’t tell us much about anything (Tokyo, where we were going, where we were) and at some stages he seemed to go around in circles to get the km up. Although that side of it was disappointing it was a fascinating ride. Along stream areas were there were playgrounds and sitting areas.
From the elevation of the towers visited there doesn’t appear to be much like parks, green space for the sheer number of people but once exploring on the ground there is a lot of hidden spaces.
A very enjoyable but exhausting ride in up to 27C temps. Back to the hotel were the bikes were disassembled and farewelled… they are on their way to Osaka for another tour no doubt.
Noel sorted out our tickets for tomorrow.
Assembled for our final group dinner 6.45pm… minus the Aus family (taking Phoebe to the airport). They had also abandoned todays biking for shopping, along with the walking the day before. Also minus G as she is staying closer to the airport this evening.
Dinner was just around the corner at a hotel with a very ‘yelley/shoutey’ waiter.. we were seated at 3 tables of 6 with Ryuichi, Fi, Mia and Margy so quite good fun.. although according to Ryuichi we were the ‘cheap group’. He’s quite a funny guy.
We were all quite tired, so back to the hotel by 9, after all the goodbyes, and packed up. Leaving hotel at 5.30am for a 6am train to the airport, Narita.
IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN:
Precise: well organised except for people walking and biking on streets
Friendly: in the rural areas particularly
Rural area villages: seemed to have very few people for the number of houses, almost making the towns looked deserted.
Cities teeming with people
No rubbish bins on the streets, but everywhere on streets largely clean
However surprised by the amount of plastic used: disposable everythings.. in hotels bathrooms, plastic bags at bakeries, hand wipes at restaurants etc.
Also saddened by the rubbish from the sea, on the beaches/coast.. as they are scenically stunning areas, Niko peninsula etc.
Helpful people everywhere if approached
After 3 week in Japan we now know 2 words!! Konnichiwa and Arigatou
Not much homelessness, but did see some people in parks on city bike rides who may have been. Some young people around Tokyo train stations.
Efficiency: plus, plus! Rail/bus systems, always exactly on time etc (although R truly shocked when we told him of a 15min bullet train delay at one point). Ability to move the huge population around.
Engineering feats: tunnels truly impressive
Safe place: no hassling
Wacky stuff: musical roads, robots rolling down streets, overhead train line going right through side of building
Not much buildings on hills (earthquake lessons?)
Not much fresh fruit (surprisingly), in fact breakfast fruit was like Watties tinned
Dining rooms separated for groups (ie each couple or group of individuals gets their own little room)
