Tours all finished so we are on our own!
20 July: Thursday
A slower start this morning as no tour timetable to keep to!
Although when we went out walk the streets to get some breakfast it was very
quiet. Walked then to Wat Pho temple, temple of the reclining buddha, past some
impressive looking buildings including the Ministry of Defence and The Imperial Palace.
We had been here 35 years ago (also visiting the palace and
the temple across the river time). The complex covers a huge area with a range of
buddhas located down hallways etc … a number of big ones, one extremely big one
as well as the reclining one which is just huge!! Also quite a few shrines that
are heavily mosaiced, a very impressive place.
Following that walked to the river and wound our way along
roadways, along streets selling stereo’s and speakers, and through the Siam Market
but didn’t stop to shop! Found a lunch spot, turned out it was also a hostel,
which had a very funky atmosphere... and a tasty lunch!
Arrived at the Golden Mount temple, although small it was
very impressive due to it’s location. Wound our way up the many steps, past
waterfalls, statues, bells and gongs. The top had a lovely view of the
surrounding, vast, city… the old buildings (residential), the canal, the sky
scrapers in the distance and the golden spires of various temples.
Wandered back to the hotel for a reviving cuppa, it was hot,
and we were still sweating bucket loads and not even a bike in sight!! Once we
had recovered enough to go out again a thunderstorm trundled in so we just sat
it out in hotel, although Noel managed to dash out to an ATM for some more $$.
It cleared enough by around 6pm to walk to a nearby park by
the river that had an old fort complex, still a bit of moisture dripping from
buildings/trees but not rain as such.
Found a very chilled roof top bar for a drink, on top of a
hostel and up 5 stories of very steep stairs. When we walked into the foyer
there was 2 people behind counter, one leaps up (an ex European chap) to climb
the steps ahead of us … so we were the only clients in bar!! Ordered one big
bottle of beer, 2 glasses, and drank our beer huddled under the roof by the bar whilst being watched by the bored barman.
Next mission was dinner … walked back towards the fort as we
had seen eateries. Ended up at “Mad Monkey” which was another hostel,
definitely a young vibe, but their burgers sounded good and that’s what we
needed as a change from rice based meals 😊
We are amazed at the number of people who are travelling
with kids .. the ones with 5–9-month-olds in front packs that really amaze us.
We saw one family, waiting for a bus at a depot opposite last night’s
restaurant, that had 4 kids … an older probably around 12-year-old, a set of
twins (3’ish) and a 8-9 month-old in a front pack … it would require so much
energy! Many of these parents are probably travelling as they missed out on
their logical travel period/age due to Covid?
An evening walk, back through the main party area of town
(Khao San Road) where Nut called out to us after spotting us… he had just taken
3 of the group to a Thai boxing match. On our way back to the hotel we then
spotted Abbey and Mal at a restaurant who had been with Nut! A few of the group
are apparently feeling a bit sick today, apparently from the meal last night,
luckily we are fine although Noel had wondered this morning.
The finish of all our tours, although 2 months have gone by,
and some days seemed endless! It has been a whirlwind … different cultures,
different sights … it has been amazing.
The first couple of weeks independently (although self guided with notes/bookings for the hiking section) finding our way
around trains, stations, cities before joining the tours where we didn’t have
to worry about a thing … easy? (or loss of challenge?)
Overall a good insight into some areas of Asia and has left
us with a feeling that there is a possibility of returning to some countries
again.
Lovely groups of people on the tours and that has been
fantastic too. Our fitness must certainly be better than 2 months ago but not
our bike speed as we still seem to be “back of the bunch” specialists!
Sights, sounds, smells, safety … it’s all been a most
excellent adventure!!!
21 July: Friday
A very early start, leaving the hotel at 5am by pre-arranged
Intrepid airport transfer.
9am flight to Surat Thani was full with quite a number of
European families travelling.
Our transfer driver was waiting for us once we picked up our
luggage and a surprise that vehicle was an Isuzu double cab pickup, but turned
out to be comfortable and actually practical once we got to some of the more
rural roads. Driving through the towns there are a lot of cannabis shops
visible.
Arrived at our accommodation, Monkey Mansion, in the pouring
rain… and we mean pouring!! The rain lasted until around 5.30pm when it
cleared. There was water everywhere including water build-up around our
“Jungalow” cabin… but no complaints as it is the wet season. We had our lunch
in their restaurant area whilst we waited for our room to be ready, after which
I read and Noel slept a bit.
Initially we thought we had booked a night tour for this
evening but the manager (Bastian) had it noted for tomorrow evening which we
are happy with as we can stay dry this evening! Not sure how we will get things
dry here if it keeps wet as the whole atmosphere is quite damp.
As it turns out the rain has stopped so the walk would possibly
have been OK, although wet underfoot, hoping for sun tomorrow! Went for a short
walk near MM after dinner, didn’t get far as too many puddles etc … we did see and
hear palms moving probably with Monkeys.
This is a cool place to stay. Mitch and Jen stayed here in
January and had recommended it. The rooms have an open window frame with no
window in the bathroom and a ¾ wall between that and main bedroom.
Additionally, there are lots of window gaps so likely quite buggy, but luckily
a mosquito net is provided over the bed. We are lulled to sleep by crickets and
frogs tonight … or something similar that clicks!! Compared to this afternoon
when the only noise was thunder and lightning.
22 July: Saturday
It’s wet in the jungle during the wet season!!!!
Heard it pouring again during the night along with
thunderstorms, still raining this morning but not as heavy.
6 guests piled into a SUV and got taken to the Khao Sok
National Park at 8.30am.
4 of us doing the ½ day hike whilst the other 2 were doing
the full day hike. It was pouring and our poncho’s were in use for the first
time … although Noel already has a rip in his!
Met up with a guide (apparently the same one the other 2
hikers had on their night tour last night). Walked over a small bridge, looking
for a snake that must reside there but no sign this morning! From there we
followed a road, and we caught up with another group. By the way, did I mention
it was raining … well … pouring.
Since our guide didn’t like being in such a bigger group, he
veered us off the road and we followed a narrower track down, with running
water cascading down the track until we reached the very full and fast flowing
river. Got our photo taken in front of the waterfall however couldn’t get as
close to it as usual due to the river flow.
From there we wound our way back uphill to reach a
shelter/stop/toilet which was after about 2 hours walking. There were other
groups there and also arriving including the 2 full day hikers we had come from
MM with. The only wildlife we saw on our way in has been a monitor lizard high
up in a tree, even though the guide knew which spots to watch for.
In the shelter roof rafters there was a little snake curled
up asleep … quite small and inconspicuous against the glare of the skylight …
as well as a spider. The cameras were clicking away as there wasn’t much else
to see!
We then returned by following the road path and managed to
spot a group of monkeys which included 3 little ones walking along a branch,
very cute! Also spotted a couple of lemur monkeys which were nice to see but it
was too wet to photograph them.
Got back to the park entrance 12.30ish and picked up and
transferred back to MM. The other couple (Australians) had booked rafting for
the afternoon but it was cancelled as too wet.
Our afternoon has been spent lunching (always important!),
reading and generally just being lazy although we did get ourselves booked to
leave on Monday morning which is going to be a 7-8 hour trip to get to Koh
Phangan … needs must.
There has been a chain saw, or 2, operating nearby so there
appears to be clearing bush operations so they can plant palms and bananas.
There is a small, reasonably new, banana plantation at the entrance to MM
however the plastic plant bags have just been left to spread around a bit. So
although the environment is tidier than Vietnam it is still far from pristine.
Our night walk this evening was great starting by the now
usual pickup from MM in a pickup and although not completely dry its getting
there! Rondo is our guide and he was very good … there was at least 65 other
tourists wandering the same path that we did this morning but well spread out.
However, we did go off path, off the script, at one point as Rondo was getting
frustrated with the number of lights …saw a crab which was missing a pincher, a
giant gecko, lemur monkey sleeping, another type of monkey also sleeping, stick
insects, leaf like insects, spider (tarantula), giant cricket, chameleon,
lizard, 2 small black and yellow snakes, centipede, butterflies including one
being chased by a bat, water scorpion and as we were leaving in the pickup back
at the park entrance a monkey was up a tree eating jackfruit and being
photographed by all and sundry.
A great night out.
23 July: Sunday
The promise of better weather beckons this morning, well
less rain anyway, and we piled into a van to be taken on an hours drive to the
lake in Khao Sok. The lake was formed in 1989 after a huge dam was built.
Transferred onto a longboat trip and we whizzed across the lake amongst and
through limestone karsts which are very spectacular!!!
Stop for photos in front of 3 peaks, apparently famous, then
did a small nature walk. Very wet underfoot then through a cave system which
was very impressive even with a whole lot of other people in it queuing to get
through it. Lots of bats swooping through the air currents in the cave also, as
well as spotting the odd spider.
From there a bit more boating to reach a floating restaurant
area and 1-1 ½ hour free time to swim or kayak, however a very limited area for
kayaking so chose to give it a miss … saw 4 monkeys across the other side of
the lake so very cool. The boat back to the van, and back to MM by around
5.30pm.
Stunning, stunning scenery!! Without getting too wet apart
from our shoes.
At least 4 geckos on our roof tonight, and we have also
spotted a firefly buzzing around. It has been lovely to have a clearer day, it
must have been in the air as this morning I saw 2 squirrels in the trees as I
was showering. However the down side is that less rain has meant more
mosquitos!!
23 July: Monday
Its raining, its pouring, the old man is …. No, but we are
picked up 8.30am then dropped at nearby mini-bus depot on the edge of the
township. Did we say, its raining, its pouring! We reported into the desk as we
were already booked, got issued a ticket and a sticker (with unknown words in
Thai) to put on our shirts! More and more people were being dropped off so we
waited with 50-60 others under a small tin veranda… cause its raining, its
pouring … while various mini-vans reversed into the waiting area. 10-11 people
were piled into each of the various said vans along with their luggage, often stacked
down the aisles after people were in or alternatively one seat sacrificed for
luggage space. They were literally loaded to the hilt before despatch, there
was obviously a system to it but it all seemed a bit chaotic to us
onlookers/waiters. Most seemed to be heading in the same direction.
The crowd had thinned considerably by the time we were
allocated to a van after 4-5 van loads of mainly European, some families,
tourists had already gone. Luckily we were the last loaded into our van so ended up at
the front, Noel in the front passenger seat which was a bonus.
1 ½ hour drive until the van stopped at a bus station in
Surat Thani, were our bags and us were all piled out and crossed the road where
our tickets were updated and directed to wait. 12pm a big bus appeared and
after loading we departed for Donsak port. All of the whole morning seemed to
happen with barely a word of English spoken but in reality all went smoothly…
must have been the shirt stickers!
Once off the bus at the port terminal which was bustling
with people but it all became clear .. a 2pm ferry departure for Koh Samui and
a 2.30pm departure for Ko Phangan, which was also a vehicle ferry. We had some
lunch in the terminal including divine banana cake for 20baht, all very clean
and efficient. Onto the ferry for a 2 ½ hour very smooth sailing passing by Koh
Samui which had buildings/resorts climbing up the hillsides. We had been to
this ferry terminal and crossed to Koh Samui back in 1989… a different
experience from memory!
Arrived at Ko Phangan terminal at the same time as another
couple of fast ferries, so a huge number of people disembarked at the same time
with luggage in tow. Walked down the one path into a carpark where there was a
large number of pickup trucks with covered seating that took 8 or so people on
the back. Very efficiently we were asked which beach/hotel we were going to and
allocated the correct truck, bags piled on roof, for a set price. Some seat
swapping directed to ensure first off were near the back etc which meant we
were at the front… obviously going to be last drop off.
Hugely efficient system of moving people. There only appear
to be 2 options, ute or motorbike, and with no competing between drivers resulting in a
very smooth allocation system and the whole car park cleared in a very short
time.
Lots of hills and bays/beaches along with small resorts,
small shopping areas along the way. The driver had his wife and young baby in
the cab with him. Not the most comfortable form of transport however and I was
going to feel car sick if we went much further (probably not helped by lovely
heat and long day).
The island seems to attract largely the younger set with
less families, but there is certainly still a few.
Dropped at Haad Salad Villas which is located right on Salad
beach, a family run very friendly older style establishment and more modest
than some we have seen already. No pool just a warm sea lapping the shallow
beach … just perfect!
A swim in the sea, a beer, a meal at the restaurant and a
walk along the beach … bliss.
A squally shower passed through as we were eating, the wind
protection shades came down quickly showing they obviously are used to
changeable weather conditions.
Haad Salad (Salad beach) has maybe 10-12 restaurants and
bars at least, most with accommodation behind. Very similar to Waiheke Island
coves with housing up the hill and 1 road in/out of each cove. The sea is warm
and clean, the beach is clean… raked every morning by respective beach front
establishments and deck chairs and tables, blankets are laid out. The beach is
completely open and not privatised for each resort. All the resorts seem quite
modest and not overly flashy here at least. Ours is costing us about $NZ 50 a
night, it is absolutely "our sort of place" and we have 4 days to enjoy it,
should be fun!
It is lovely to get away from Khao Sok which was spectacular
with its fascinating location, bats, wildlife and flora but with the constant rain
it was a bit oppressive. Because we were located out of town there it was somewhat
restrictive on what we could do, but it was great to have seen/experienced it.
25 July: Tuesday
Slow start this morning and thinking we could go for a swim
before breakfast but when we got to water there was a wind making it a bit of a
chilly (only compared to what we have become accustomed to!!) feel to the
water, plus the tide was out so we opted for a hot shower instead!!
Breakfast at our in-house café, yummy, and then back to
catch up on some paperwork. Noel doing a Facebook post with photo’s but then
taking some time to find some photo’s the whole lot disappeared (FB quirk of
timing) so it was back to square one!
So instead we walked the ‘town’ (ie small street by our
lodgings), lunched then enquired if they had hire scooters … which they do for
the same price as on the street, so a bonus. We have hired for 2 days, no
helmets provided! I haven’t been on a motorcycle with Noel, or anyone else, I
think since we toured Europe on “Horse” (Honda 500 road bike) back in 1988.
We took our initial journey around the top end of the island
to Paradise Falls, the entrance booth of which was up a steep rough driveway.
Fee of 20baht each that includes a bottle of water. Clambered up the track by
the falls … or where they are meant to be as there is hardly any water to be
seen, perhaps why they gave us a bottle!! Not very impressive but a nice
wander.
Backtracked and called at Chaloklum Beach and pier,
beautiful beach. Quite a settlement of resorts, supporting restaurants, water
taxi’s etc. From there on our way back home we veered down into Ko Ma Beach,
another area with a few resorts and a sand bar beach linking to a small island.
Quite a scenic, but busy, beach.
Missed the road turnoff so ended up doing a longer loop via
settlements of Han Kong and Srithanu Beach… without seeing the beach however
quite a large shopping area of 7/11’s, small supermarkets, clothes store etc.
Drove a secondary road back and passed Coco-locco which Logan and Izzy have
recommended for pizza (Logan and Izzy coincidentally stayed on Koh Phangan on
their March trip).
Quick swim and shower then back on the bike and down to
Locco’s for a yummy pizza dinner. Had a walk through the attached resort and
walked that beach (Haad Yao) which looks lovely in the dark. Also looks to have
some flash resorts right on the beach, we need to go back in the daylight.
Quick scoot back to our lodgings, seems an ideal way to
travel the island for 250baht per day.. at least when it’s not raining!
Linda messaged to advise of Jo’s death today, so sad for
everyone and makes us appreciate how lucky we are!
26 July: Wednesday
Wet and thundery start to the day so breakfast at our café,
a huge pancake with heaps of fruit … very yummy.
Weather clearing and forecast for a fine day so off we went
on our mighty steed back around to Chaloklum Bay area and up a hill to a
National Park carpark area (tiny). A park ranger (?) passed us as we zoomed
(??) up the quite steep hill. At the park there was a couple of scooters
already and a dog that was pleased to see us, as well as a couple of monkeys in
the trees that were not pleased at all to see the dog!! Amongst the very loud
monkey protests we queried the ranger chap and he pointed us in the right
direction so off we set with the dog following us.
Walked up a wide road and ended up on a cleared building
site, sort of, that was wrong obviously so retraced our steps until we spotted
some red arrows on rocks and trees. Followed them, seemed to be in right
direction but ended up getting to a point where the markers became sparser and
more seemed to turn back on themselves and head rapidly downward! Noel went
down a bit until it was obvious that it was a little dodgy as it was wet and
slippery underfoot. So we retreated back (all 3 of us as the dog had decided we
were its new best friends in the whole wide world!). About 100m before reaching
the parked scooter we saw blue arrows and a “Bottle Beach” sign covered by a
tree… aha! That was where we should have gone!!
Decided it was too late to try again as it was 12pm and the
intended walk is advised as 3 hours return minimum. As an alternative we hiked
the 200m viewpoint track, the dog came too… the monkeys were gone, and back to
scooter off home. Doggo started to follow but a chap was running up the hill,
so he decided he had a new human to team up with. The dog didn’t want patted at
all, just wanted to be around company.
Back to our villa as the weather still looked threatening,
then after a cuppa we headed in the other direction. Stopped at a café opposite
Locco pizza (probably owned by same people) and had sourdough sandwiches which
were absolutely huge, and nice.
Carried on and stopped at a barber shop on the way, Noel had
googled it, and for 200baht he became a whole lot more presentable!! Continued
on to the ferry terminal and booked tickets for Friday to Koh Samui easily
before returning to our lodgings.
Some reading and sat by the beach, its not cold but decided
against swimming as not a lot of sun and walked the beach. Mosquitos do seem to
like this locality unfortunately (in the villa rather than on the beach
luckily). Wandered along the beach tonight for somewhere different for dinner,
beach seems a lot busier tonight with 2 restaurants full. Lots of families
mainly. 2 smaller restaurants were empty which we didn’t know if a good sign.
We asked and got a table at one of the more popular restaurants and had a
lovely Thai meal. Mild red curry which was hot enough for me and a Cashew/Pork
stir fry, very good.
27 July: Thursday
Awoke to a beautiful calm morning so we left around 8am and
scootered to Coco Locco for breakfast, once again Logan and Izzy’s
recommendation… which proved outstanding. Only one other table at that time
occupied, everyone else must be on slower starts. A delicious granola breakfast
for me.
Then a second attempt, back to our viewpoint carpark and
onto the newly found Bottle Beach track! No monkeys today, or ranger, but again
a couple of scooters already parked up. Following the blue and yellow markers
the trail took us up over the hill and down to Bottle Beach. A beautiful bay,
shallow and quite big with quite a few accommodation places as well… maybe 5-6
different places and at least 2 restaurants. Guests largely boat in on longtail boats/water taxi's.
A few families swimming, sunbathing along with a few boats
coming and going transferring people in for the day or night.
A well-deserved swim, it was a reasonably strenuous hike in
with the temps rising and we were a bit sweaty so what a perfect solution.
Partook in a cold fruit smoothie at a restaurant and then it was back on the
track to go over the hill again. Around 1hr 20min each way, heading out we met
a few people heading in but it does take a bit of effort. A nice windy, rocky,
climbing sort of track so enjoyable.
Stopped at Chaloklum Beach for a swim on the way back to
Haad Salad, another lovely beach although a bit more industrial due to having a
pier with squid boats alongside the taxi boats shutting people around to Bottle
Beach. Quite a few Europeans (some noticeable as Eastern European due to
accents) lying prone in the sun.
Back to our abode with 7/11 lunch supplies and handed back
our scooter. $NZ30 for 2 days including fuel so a bargain and fun! Sorted out a
ride to the ferry terminal in the morning. Then spent an hour or so catching up
on news etc then just as we were about to go for a swim the weather started
coming up a bit stormy, cloudy so another cuppa instead!
Dinner at our restaurant again, once again everyone shifted
inside as rain threatened and the screens lowered. A last walk on the beach
though which actually had some waves with quite a high tide.
This has been a lovely spot for a few days, if it was minus
the pesky mosquitos, it would have been perfect, but it is so close to perfect
anyway so doesn’t matter! A nice way to unwind after our active couple of
months. Seemed to be the location got busier over our few days here, more
tourists arriving as the week went on.
28 July: Friday
The facility shuttle truck had us on the road by 9am and
dropped us at the ferry terminal, no charge as they had to go for supplies
anyway so that was nice of them and a bonus for us. The lady owner was adamant
that we had been wonderful guests and also hired scooter etc so no way was she
charging!
Boarded what turned out to be a cramped ferry full of
tourists at 10.30am for the 45-minute transfer to Koh Samui. We then just
walked along to our accommodation for the night, being there at 11.30am we were
very early but they still had our room ready for us in less than an hour.
Offered that we could go for a swim in the complex pool while waiting but we were happy reading.
Room was great, full kitchen facilities so actually an
apartment. Close to the flight path and right on a busy main road as we found
out at night, but it was good for our needs.
Once settled in we walked along the beach in search of
lunch, the beachfront is lined with restaurants and accommodation. Probably not
the pick of places for an extended stay as the bay has ferry terminals and is a
bit industrial, a lot of rubbish bags lying about. People are swimming in the
sea even though all the resorts look to have pools. We found lunch then went
back to our accommodation for a swim and some catch up.
Once it cooled down a bit we walked along the beach to the
next bay, took a while as climbing over/under boat mooring ropes and pier etc.
Got to the next bay in time for a beer at a lovely deck bar just as sun was
setting. Stunning although very pricey beer compared to Koh Phangan, guess the
busier island can get away with charging more plus the privilege of being at
that bar (not that it was superior to what we have become accustomed to!!).
Beer 2-3x more expensive, obviously owned by Europeans as they were about the
place as well. Nice though and a lovely spot for a sundowner 😊
Walked back on the roadside ignoring the touting taxi trucks
and found a family run restaurant very close to where we are staying, there was
any number of choices as we walked back that way. Once back home it was time
for a last sort and pack of the bags in preparation for the morning.
29 July: Saturday
Pre-booked (hotel did so yesterday) taxi waiting for us at
7am. We were all ready as it had been a reasonably noisy night with the buzzing
nightlife outside as well as some late night pool use by guests but neither of
which really kept us awake/troubled.
Koh Samui airport is a lovely outdoor (tropical) affair.
Lots of cafes along the walkway between check-in and the gates but Mitch and
Jen had already pre-warned us to ignore them… complimentary food was laid on in
the departure lounges by the airline, nice! Not too fancy but tea or coffee,
hot or cold muffins, biscuits, ham sandwiches etc, a bonus!!
Now sitting in Bangkok airport at 11.40am waiting for our
15.15 flight to Singapore and onward to Christchurch then Queenstown we shall
be.
The adventure comes to a close.
