Wednesday, July 23, 2025

French Pyrenees - Coast to Coast


11 July, Friday. 82km, 29C (41C max)

8am departure and cycled a coastal route most of the way north to Bayonne, which is the epicentre of the Basque red and white festivities… not too much happening at 9:30am but cars, tents and campers set up all along the riverbank (Adour River). Lots of side shows entertainment, but too early for them to be up and running. Took a bit of negotiating as much of the festival setup was along the path of the route so a bit of detouring in places. Huge number of people dressed up in red and white pouring into the centre of town, it must be heaving later on in the day.

Following bike track we wound through countryside and at times back beside the Ardour River which is a huge wide muddy looking waterway. Smooth path the whole way. Went up the hill into township of Urt to find a supermarket… our hunt for our morning Pain-au-Chocolates had been fruitless with any boulangerie we stopped at being sold out due to the crowds of people.

Along a path on top of a flood bank, still sealed, following a different channel of water the Bidouze River.

Getting rather hot now as we follow the route across farmland; maize, huge areas of it, some peas, beans and kiwifruit. The last 10km on rail trail, well-sealed, and with some tree shelter but extremely hot riding!

Staying in Hotel du Parc in the town of Sallies-de-Bearn. A very glamorous hotel in it’s day being built 1891, the town is an old thermal town with original baths dating from 1858. The hotel was occupied by the Germans during WW2, the town being on the border between occupied and free France. The hotel is now a casino, although not very big with it appears mainly pokie machines and some blackjack tables.

The town itself has origins dating to 1500BC, the salt of the thermal springs having been discovered way back then apparently. A population of 247 people in 1385 and the areas economic base being agriculture or salt. A wild boar is the emblem of the town, based on the legend that the origin of the town is due to a wild boar being killed by hunters so it lay on the marshes and salt preserved it.

A beautiful town filled with buildings from the 17th through to the 20th century.

A walk around, dinner at a Vietnamese restaurant which was very good. Returned back to our hotel room and relaxed listening to the music emanating from a neighbouring restaurant/concert. There is an arts festival on, but anyway a nice way to be lulled to sleep.

12 July, Saturday. 77km, 23C (31C max)

Departed before 8:30am and after a couple of kms found a supermarket, bananas, yoghurt and croissant for breakfast eaten in the supermarket carpark!

Following rail path we came to a tunnel with sensor lights that flickered as we approached and then stopped completely part way through… leaving us in the dark literally, phone torches out and pushed our bikes. Near the end of the tunnel the lights started working again, it was a long tunnel too!

Quiet roads passing maize, some kiwifruit and beans. A bit undulating but not too bad. 10:45am hunting for a boulangerie in Orthez to get our Pain-au-chocolates and sandwich. As we left again it started to rain enough for us to put on our jackets and leggings.

Stopped at a picnic table for an early lunch before onto track around a couple of lakes and then back onto farm roads… had to scoot under a couple of farm irrigators. Lots of maize, most of the farms appear to be one crop operations.

Up a rather steep hill to the town of Lagor where we had a breather stop, then dropped down through Mourenx which is a purpose-built town around gas plants. From there we were on various paths going uphill the whole time although it didn’t seem like it. Largely following the Ousse River and arriving at city of Pau.

As we arrived a wedding had just happened at the rather large church Eglise St Martin, lots of people milling about so a big “do”. Took a bit of negotiating along roadworks to get to our hotel arriving around 5pm.

Out for a walk and dinner. Pau has a grand promenade on the edge of the hill, overlooking the river below. Very grand buildings from the 1800’s and an old castle.

A bit of rain this evening.

13 July, Sunday. 52km, 26C (33C max)

Breakfast at a boulangerie this morning and then a walk around the inner city including viewing the outdoor Tour de France museum. Ironically the tour is just a few days away from being here… best we keep pedaling then.

Left hotel 10:30am, dropped down to the railway station, through some streets and onto the river track to continue following the Ousse upstream. Being on the river path means a lot of trees with glimpses of the river. The L’Ousse supports a lot of recreational activities; canoeing, kayaking etc. It is quite controlled with concrete barriers and drop structures to take the force out of any flooding. Also passed a hydro station.

The biking not too eventful, mostly following paths which are gradually going up or roads which are a bit steeper or up and down slightly. Passing through maize and bean growing area.

Quite a bit of day bikers and a few bike packers going both directions. Stopped and had a sandwich at Nay where there was some sort of bike event happening… so kept careful so we didn’t be caught up in it.

About 15km before Lourdes there is a cave system open to the public so appears to be quite a big recreational area. Passed a little campground with a shop… so stopped and had a welcome ice-cream!

Arrived at Lordes around 4pm… Oh my Lord (well, exactly!!!)… it is just a crazy spectacle that is impossible to describe. We just wish we had a GoPro to capture it! A stunning and amazing transformation dropping off our tiny, quiet sealed road and down past a large cathedral to suddenly be in the midst of hundreds and hundreds of people.

Its like Las Vegas… a mega town seemingly sprung up from nowhere, although Lourdes did exist before 1858 as cross-roads of several villages dating from the Neolithic and Bronze era of caves. Then approximately 1st century roman walls and a castle. However, it was after 1858 that it was put on the map… after a local girl, Bernadette Saubirous apparently saw an apparition of the Virgin Mary. Bernadette was the only person that ever saw the “vision” but it drew a few locals into her report… they told others and now over 6 million (!!!!) people visit annually. They weren’t all there today but it some ways it seemed it to a couple of bikers trying to negotiate through town, if was very, very congested!

Busloads of people being discharged onto the street that is lined with stores selling holy figures, empty bottles of a range of sizes to put “holy water” in, calendars and dare we say tat to all and sundry. There was also scores of people in wheelchairs, sulky type chairs, being wheeled along by nurses and nuns. All hoping to drink the holy water and/or be blessed by being here.

It is just jaw dropping to see.

There is a candlelight procession each night, at 8pm in summer, that anyone can join... after spending some coin on a candle we guess… with a mass in the open area in front of the cathedral at the end point. Huge number of people and all highly choreographed. Certainly, a spectacle to see.

Once we have checked into our (large, as many are) hotel when you look past all the people, the large church and the hoopla, the town all looks a bit tired. Several hotels closed down, traffic jams in the centre of the town etc. so it all has a bit of a grunge look.

An added bonus for us it is Bastille Day tomorrow (France’s National Day) and there is a fireworks display from the castle on the hill. So. after grabbing some, average, dinner at one of the many restaurants and viewing the evening mass from above, we watch the fireworks, which are spectacular to see too.

A bit of thunder rolling around so quite dramatic this evening.

14 July, Monday. 30km, 21C (24 max)

A slower day today, some rain overnight… and happy Bastille Day.

A walk around the business part of town in the hunt for a Boulangerie, found one which had 6 or 7 hikers lined up ordering sandwiches and coffees which took ages. Finally took our order, bagged for us but then when they went to make coffee the machine broke… an awful lot of fluffing. Finally managed to pay for our goods, minus the coffee but then once outside realise we had an apple croissant and one Pain-au-Chocolate. Didn’t bother trying to rectify it after all the mucking around initially.

Packed up and left hotel by 10:30am stopping to get a supermarket sandwich on the way.

Some railway trail then quiet roads… up a reasonably steep hill then mostly downhill. Through farmland of maize, beans and a few cattle plus a handful of sheep.

Got to our next overnight at Tarbes by 2pm and sat in the park near our accommodation where we got a message from our host saying he would be there at 3:30pm. So, a bit of people, and peacock, watching… didn’t seem to be much else happening in Tarbes!

Accommodation is great, very big for a 1-bedroom flat and the bikes are locked in the entrance hall at bottom of stairs. We did a wash in the laundry in the apartment and hung on a rack inside hoping it will dry overnight.

Dinner over the road at a Vietnamese place, the lady a bit harried which resulted in Caro getting Pork with Onions along with Chicken Fried rice! rather than Ginger Pork, not sure how that happened but all good.

Checked out nearby Boulangerie but it is shut tonight and tomorrow so will have to sort out other options.

15 July, Tuesday. 62km, 17C (22C max)

A bit of rain this morning as we walked to supermarket for breakfast supplies.

Grabbed a train from Tarbes to Lannemezan at 9:48… a 20-minute train ride which was not busy at all and very cruisy to load bikes on/off. This saved us 55km and 900m of climbing which in the route guides isn’t that scenic or exciting.

Misty but not raining at Lannemezan, onto quiet roads down and up through rural areas where there seemed to be quite a few houses and maybe small farms. A few cattle and a couple of sheep with bells on, otherwise maize mainly.

Stopped at the village of St Bertrand-de-Comminges, a medieval village on a hill. Parked the bikes in the car park at the bottom and walked up. A cute walled town but not that much to see, only one restaurant open which was busy. The church which stands out from miles around was closed, wandered the couple of narrow streets. Worth a look.

Back down to the bikes and had a snack amongst the ruins of a Roman Colony dating from 20BC.

Continued on our way, winding through small villages. No matter how small each village has it’s own church, although some are now abandoned. The last 18km was flat to downhill following mainly rail trail and some river trail near the end.

Tonight we are in an AirBnB at St Gaudens, not too much to see. A big church, the overlook of the river is rather industrial with chimneys spewing smoke and piles of woodchips. The hosts are lovely, can’t speak a word of English so a lot of hand waving… but they even insisted on our bikes going in their garage after they took their car out for the night!

Noel collected a hornet in his helmet today… that was a very quick stop but still got an irritating sting. Applied anti-sting lotion and it seemed to help a lot.

16 July, Wednesday. 63km, 25C (44max)

9am departure from St Gaudens initially on bike lane beside busy road then onto quieter country roads. Up and down a bit through well kept villages, it must have been a wealthy area over time as quite a few impressive Chateau as we rode and up on the hills.

Stopped at a boulangerie in Saint-Martory and ate our spoils in a carpark opposite watching the local police checking out a couple of cars, entertainment and food!

Onto a rail trail with a great surface, slowly slowly climbing up hill. The heat was coming on but we kept going until we found a supermarket in Saint Lizier where we stocked up on dinner and breakfast supplies. As we are running early we stopped at the nearby McDonalds for smoothies… it took a while surprisingly, but it didn’t matter as we are running early anyway for our 4pm check-in.

Climbed up into the old village part of Saint-Lizier and found our accommodation in a complex that held the Bishops Palace dating from the 5th century and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The Romans stopped here in 72BC after battles with the Spanish, and the ramparts visible date from the 3rd century whilst the citadel was constructed 4th century. The village is very picturesque with houses and alleyways from 15th-16th century.

A drink at the Bishops Palace restaurant overlooking the village and towards Saint-Gerons and beyond to the Pyrenees. The mountains visible today, still showing patches of snow. Dinner in our apartment, Chilli, and then a walk around the village which is just so lovely, very old but well preserved.

17 July, Thursday. 55km, 26C (39C max)

8:45 on our way, quickly into Saint-Gerons so found a boulangerie which provided Pain-au-Chocolate but not sandwiches. So retraced slightly to a supermarket to ensure we had some for lunch.

On quiet road for a period before onto a rail trail. 2 very long uphill climbs, and 2 long downhill. Farmland along the way; maize, unharvested wheat and some cattle which are being annoyed by lots of little flies… over their noses and all around, the poor cattle are constantly flicking their tails!

It was very, very hot by the time we got to Foix, found a spot to park the bikes right beside a bar/restaurant… so sat and had a couple of Coke’s for a recharge. We are in no hurry to get to our AirBnB as we can’t check-in until 4.30pm. Walked around the town, sticking to the shady side of streets! Up to the impressive castle overlooking the town and which dates from 987, it is a museum with paid entry with all signage looking like it is in French… so gave that a miss!

Caro found an optician so got her glasses fixed again, third time for trip, they are sticking on folding threatening to break as the screws seem to self-tighten.

Foix is a canoe slalom destination, last weekend NZ’er Nick Collier won an under 23 World Championship here! The roundabouts have stand up kayaks and some of the walls around town have canoe slalom banners up whilst the butchers shop, department store and pharmacy all have canoe window displays.

As we made our way from Foix towards Montgallard we stopped at a hardware store to get a gas canister for our cooker and also at the nextdoor supermarket. We are only 10 minutes from our accommodation… extremely hot, the bike GPS registers 44C whilst stopped at the shops.

Arrived to be met by a lovely host Helga who has given us lots of hints about what to do for our couple of days here. Based on her advice this evening we walked 30-40 minutes to the next village following the river so in trees and cool. A neighbourhood pizza “hut/food truck” with outside tables, a yummy pizza and a beer and walked home again.

There appears to be everything quite close, including a restaurant at nearby campground so we shouldn’t have to go back into Foix during our time here. Still quite hot at 10pm.

18 July, Friday. 27km, 24C (31C max)

Quite a busy day for our “day off”!

7:15am breakfast then ready to bike, without luggage, to the village of Roquefixade about 15km away in the hills. First stop the local boulangerie for sandwiches, and you guess it, Pain-au-cholates!

Uphill via rural roads passing farmland and small clusters of houses, rather than villages as such although the obligatory churches.

Roquefixade is a medieval village with not a whole lot there, a population of 150 although we only saw one! Certainly a few visitors walking around though. One house for sale we walked past was built 1635!

The main reason to visit is to climb up to the Castle of Roquefixade, the ruins of an 11th century fortified castle first recorded in 1034. It had some alterations in the 15/16th centuries before being destroyed under the orders of Louis XIII in 1632. It seems a pretty precarious spot to build a castle, but amazing views and looking off into the distance you can spot another “something” also perched on top of a hill.

Got back to our house around 2pm, did a quick shop for breakfast supplies then some admin/planning for next options going forward. Noel adjusted bike seats a little.

6pm and we decided it had cooled enough to walk up the hill that looms over the village. Our host outlined there is an easy and a hard way, so choose the easy way but then met a farmer with 4 dogs who was slowly herding some sheep, with bells, up that way. He, via had signals, asked us to go the other way… so the hard way it was then. Once we reached the summit, fantastic views, our host was seen in her yard vigorously waving a sheet for us to see!

Back down, showers and out for dinner at the campground… well that was the intention, but when we got there it was heaving with people and lots more arriving by car and on foot. We had earlier called and tried booking but as it is “paella night” they didn’t take bookings and just said turn up… and everybody else did too! It looked very congested and we chickened out as felt it may have been awkward trying to find a seat and order with our lack of French. So, we walked back to the same pizza place we were at last night, nice pizza again and thankful for the simplicity of it! Walked back, getting dark but home by 9:30pm.

19 July, Saturday. 71km, 19C (24C max)

Woke about 5am with thunder and lightening so quickly got up and put our bikes under the shade canopy to protect the leather seats.

Departed after breakfast around 8:45am, Helga was teary waving us goodbye, how nice! There is still some light rain as we headed off. Stop at the boulangerie for the usual, and then at supermarket to stock up on bananas and nuts. A long wait to be served, the supermarkets don’t seem to have self-checkouts and appear short-staffed.

Initially back via Foix and some of the same route we had followed coming in. Mostly quiet roads as we started heading towards Paniers. From there onto a trail, ex railway, heading towards Mirepoix, which is a medieval town. We are back on the bikepacking circuit seeing a few others going each way.

Mirepoix was initially established on the right bank of the River Hers in the 1200’s. However, it was mostly washed away from floods, so it was re-established on the left bank shortly after. The cathedral dates from the 1400’s.

Totally unknown to us but we are very lucky as this weekend is the Mirepoix historic Fete so lots of things happening. A market day (crafts, soaps etc.), sword dueling exhibitions, men’s choir, women’s traditional dancing, singing as well as lots of people dressing in period clothing. All great fun to see and experience. The town is also very pretty, surrounded by city walls. An ice cream in the square as we people watched.

Another 25km and we arrive in Chalabre for the night at our hotel accommodation. Accommodation is a bit tricky on this route and often have to adjust our distances to work in where we can find lodgings. Another medieval town but not quite as well cared for. Dinner at the hotel, on front verandah, Duck for us both; Noel has Duck Confit on potato, Caro Duck Pork Haricot Bean Causselet. A short walk around town.

20 July, Sunday. 48km, 26C (34C max)

Left hotel, stop at supermarket to buy a not very appetising sandwich for lunch supplies. On road and onto a slow climb up to a village and then turned to continue up to the Col des Tougnets Pass, 558m asl, then followed by a glorious 7-8km downhill.

Stopped at the town of Esperaza which had a market on the go, not sure if weekly or all the time. It was huge, stalls lining the streets: jewelry, fruit, candles, clothes and much more along with huge crowds of people. Interestingly a lot of tourists too, English and USA obvious and going by chatter a few live/stay in the area. Found Pain-au-chocolate and ate on a bridge edge by the river whilst listening to a barber shop quartet type of male choir.

The heat coming on as we do the next continual climb, through a thermal village, Rennes-les-Bains which has quite old buildings and hotels. Upward the road goes on tree covered rocky mountainous terrain, a bit like Montana or Oregon scenery.

Arrived at the campground at Bugarach 3pm but check-in not until 5pm. We went onto the camp area and started setting up the tent, the owners turned up from feeding some donkeys nearby and once they realised we couldn’t speak French, nor they much English, we think they were happy enough to let us do so!

Quite a cute setup with some cabins on one side and paddocks for tents. A small kitchen with kettle and fridge but no running water in kitchen or cooking facilities. One toilet/solar shower room. Caro first shower which was initially cold then started warming, followed by Noel who said it got so hot he had to turn it down!!

The campground has a restaurant, but only takes cash… after paying for our site we only have E38 for dinner which we calculate will be tight enough but doable without a beer.

Had a walk to the lake located just beside the campground, a dam of some sort, then wandered into the village in the hope there may be a cash machine but no.

There is a pizza/bar set up just on the side road leading to the campground, so we give that a go, and they take cards, so a beer is possible, and appreciated! Lovely pizzas consumed too. Home for a cuppa and relatively early night. There is around 20-25 people staying in campground in a mix of cabins, tents and vans.

21 July, Monday. 49km, 20C (28C max)

Thunderstorm overnight, first heard thunder 11:30ish so shot to loo before rain started and there was still a few people sitting out under the trees socialising.

It got very stormy during the night, thunder, lightning, heavy rain and including winds which was a bit of a concern given our tent pegs struggled going in the hard ground. Woke up at 6am as neighbours alarm went (cyclists also) so we got up reasonably shortly after. Packed up all our inside stuff, had breakfast and then packed tent also… it had stood the test of the storm very well.

Headed off 7:45am which was around the same time as the other bikers but they must have gone opposite direction as we didn’t see them again.

Immediately climbing up, up and up to cross the Col du Linas 667m asl and then the Col du Bancard 496m asl. Not individually huge climbs but collectively zig zagging up is tough enough. Followed by some glorious downhill riding so great fun and lovely. We met some event vans (flashing lights) and then some 4 runners, 3 women, who are carrying some sort of baton so guessing a relay.

Turning off at Cubières-sur-Cinoble we headed towards Gorges de Galamus. This road soon became a narrow road carved into a cliff face with a stone wall on the river side as protection from the steep drop into the gorge. Known as a “balcony road” it is very impressive and dramatic. From 11am to 6pm it is controlled by traffic lights as it really is very narrow with sharp turns; we are before 11am so no lights and pretty much no traffic. A few loose rocks lying on the road after last night’s storm.

It seemed deserted as we started riding through, then about after a km or so we met a family of 4 walking, not even sure where they came from! Then as we were nearing the end we saw people walking who are wearing orange helmets, as we pass them we realise they are river canyoners… there is a lot more of them getting organised at the car park located at the end of the gorge. It is a long way down to the river though!! Some dramatic cliff housing in one spot also which is nowadays presumably un-occupied.

A most amazing experience, likely up there as the most dramatic cycling we have done.

After dropping from there we stop at a boulangerie in Saint-Paul-de-Fenouillet for snack and coffee before some uphill riding again. The climate has changed as there is lots of grapes now, however the same grey rock mountains and the soil looks more like broken rock.

Up to Col del Tauc 388m asl being easy going as we have a tail wind. Had a break for snacks, sat watching some swallow’s carting food back and forwards for youngsters. Then some more upward climbing before a lovely long downhill run into the town of Maury.

From there onto rougher single land road winding its way amongst vineyards. Passed one chap spraying the rows of vines with a backpack, one way to fill in your day!

Arrived at Tautavel about 1pm, accommodation said arrive between 12-2 but it was actually a lockbox so easy. A shared kitchen loune amongst 4 bedrooms, but we are the only guests so have the place to ourselves. A bonus as we spread out our wet tent to dry etc. A relaxing long afternoon to organise our next few days. A washing machine and given how warm lounge is it is easy to dry everything. The bikes have also been manhandled up the stairwell into the lounge for security (which owner advised doing).

Dinner at a hamburger and beer joint just around the corner followed by a walk/hike up to the ruins of Chateau de Tautavel which is a stunning viewpoint. The ruins pretty precarious sitting on top of a huge bluff overlooking the town, not too many earthquakes here??!

Tautavel is the European Centre for prehistoric research. The Tautavel Man is an early homid and some of the oldest human remains found in Europe were discovered in Caune-de-l-Arajo, a cave in the district/commune. It now houses a replica cave and remnants, we think we were in the car park but didn’t go in.

An amazingly spectacular days riding, and the hill hike this evening is beautiful as well.

22 July, Tuesday. 82km, 30C (37C max)

Mostly packed by 8am before trip to supermarket for breakfast food and boulangerie for lunch food. Fed and away from accommodation by 9am. A long slow hill for a start but with a good gradient and then downhill into Cases-de-Pene to see our route had road closed sign… we happily carried on past like we usually do but in this case were turned back by a truck driver. To be fair the road was well dug up and big machinery operating. So, plan B, although we didn’t have one, as we followed GPS maps which indicated a track. It was very much a rough walking track but did get us up and over a hill and down to rejoin our road again but involved quite a bit of pushing as very sharp rocks so trying to lessen puncture risk.

Smooth going for a while then got to some more road closed signs so didn’t even try and see, we just redirected ourselves on other quiet roads to do a triangle back to our route leading to Perpigan. The roads getting busier but good roadside bike path.

The scenery has changed since we came over the last big hill yesterday. Much drier, crops of grapes and olives, droughty looking scrub rather than the lush oak, blackberry and sycamores.

Missed Perpigan by skirting around the outside on underpasses and cycle path. Passed a substantial area of Apricot trees that looked ready for picking, a small amount that was happening, very tempting to grab some but didn’t.

Then onto 12km of lovely surfaced, slightly downhill, riding beside the Agly River towards Barcares. Stopped for lunch on the banks, no picnic tables. As we rode a chap caught up and initially rode beside Caro for couple of kms, then caught up to Noel for another km… chatting away in French so we had no idea, he was happy enough though and then went ahead before turning off.

Reached Barcares and the Mediterranean Ocean!! The long stretch of beach had a single line of sun umbrellas but was not packed by any stretch of the imagination.

Rode past theme parks, an animal park and several water slide parks. Stopped at an information centre which is housed in a great big ship “Lydia”. Lydia was built in the 1930’s as a cruise ship then repurposed by being sunk into the sandy beach during the 1960’s to be used as as casino/nightclub. The idea was to symbolise the whole wider Bacares area and its development during that period.

Rode on from there following the path as it wound its way avoiding the various estuaries and parks. A lot of campgrounds obviously quite full, school holidays? and various towns fill of beachside apartments and some resorts.

Noel having difficulty with GPS where the path is close to a road resulted in a close call when we almost ended up biking into a naturalist resort! Realised we might be wrong when catching up on a bare bummed person walking in front of us!!! About turn!!

We finally ended up in the town of Port-la-Nouvelle and our accommodation for the next 3 nights. A big day, we are exhausted.

Our accommodation has a courtyard and indoor storage for our bikes can potentially sleep 10 so is designed as a family holiday spot. It is a bit rundown, 2 stovetop elements not working etc. It will do fine but there’s not the ‘pride’ that often goes with a rental… it must be someones holiday rental and they are creaming a few $$ on the side.

The town all seems to have been built in the 70/80’s, a bit sterile. Anyway, it will do for a break, it was going to be expensive elsewhere. Walked to supermarket for breakfast supplies and then a walk to waterfront restaurants/bars area. Burgers for dinner which was exactly what we needed as there was a big gap to fill!

The beach opposite the restaurant we are in has kids pay attractions, a giant baby bouncer and climbing frame etc. There is a huge expanse of golden sand, very flat so obviously don’t get storms. The sea feels quite cold which is disappointing as we have visions of warm Mediterranean Sea!

It will be nice to have a couple of days off to recharge, wash, re-organise, plan etc. Found out by message this evening when we contacted them, we have literally just missed catching up with our 2023 house sitters Yann and Dalia. If we had made contact a couple of days earlier we could have visited them, turns out they are just south of the area we rode through today but too far to ride back!

Hong Kong stopover

5 September, Friday 7:45am shuttle from Ibis to Schiphol Airport which is a very busy airport indeed! Keen to arrive early and get check...