A frosty start but it’s going to be a good day. Leaving
winter behind we were taken to the airport by Wayne, to fly to Auckland at
12pm. Arrived in Auckland and got the shuttle to Jet Park hotel, which seems to
be in the middle of the airport storage and distribution area. A walk around
the block, dinner at the hotel and an earlyish night as both of us a bit rough
with a cold or flu.
23 May; Friday:
On the shuttle for the airport at 7 am. Left Auckland at
10am, on an Air NZ plane for a 10-hour flight which was reasonably full. A few
movies to watch, nothing of consequence tho, mostly stayed awake.
Arrived in Singapore at 4.30pm. Bused close to our hotel
and walked 10 minutes to get there. The hotel is in the historic precinct of
Singapore with lots of restaurants and shops about. An older hotel but perfect
for us. A quick walk up and down the street, found a spot for dinner (in a
mall) and then bedtime, we are both exhausted and slightly unwell.
24 May; Saturday:
A few things going wrong…
- Our
colds are not improving very quickly
- Noel’s
Wise card is being tried in USA transactions, so he’s frozen
it
- My
Wise card was not declined but didn’t work on yesterday’s bus fare, it
wasn’t activated with the code, that got binned before we left home,
although Noel could transfer funds to my card prior to leaving without the code.
- Roaming
not activated.
After a breakfast of toast and eggs, down the road, Noel got
roaming sorted. Went to an ATM and got my Wise card working. A UK pounds
transaction blocked on Noel’s card.
After checking out (leaving our bags there) we bused to the
Marina Sands area and wandered via some air-conditioned malls. It was very hot
…32 C feels like 39 C!!A wander through Marina Sands Hotel and out through the
super-tree grove. A lovely park but everything is artificial, trees, a
waterslide without water which didn’t work well and a Friendship Forest which was tall
air-filled oblong things.
Got the subway and walked to Karla and Jono’s apartment and
had a drink by the pool, smiles from Lily, not much acknowledgement from
Oliver, but he’d had a 4th birthday party (his) this morning so a bit
tired. Regan arrived too. Spent about an hour with them then went back to the
hotel, using the subway. A quick and very welcome shower at the hotel pool then a
bus to the airport.
Checked in and on the advice of a Singapore Airlines staff
member headed to the "local's" food hall, quite busy but we found something easy enough.
Then through to departures. Noel has completely lost his voice so no
conversation happening here!!
25 May; Sunday: fine cool wind
Arrived at Heathrow at 6am after a good flight. Noel had a
spare seat beside him, and we were again at the back of the plane, bonus! Not
that much sleep tho. Noel still has no voice but according to google if you
take blood thinners, which he did (2 of them), then the throat is more
vulnerable to trauma…and since he was coughing anyway that could be the reason.
Some intense therapy of pineapple juice and ginger and lemon tea, once we got
our room, is helping a bit.
Got to our hotel at 8.05am (they were warned), and were able
to drop our bags and come back at 1pm for an early check in. The hotel is very
close to Kings Cross Station. We walked into the central area via
breakfast at a Pretz, a chain sandwich/bakery place.
The British museum was just opening, with a huge queue
of people waiting to get in. We crossed the Thames via one of 2 bridges built
to commemorate Queen Elizabeth’s golden jubilee in 2002 and walked along Southbank
where a City of London toilet stop cost me 1pound and we think NZ is
expensive!!
Recrossed the Thames to Trafalgar square, Leicester Square
and via the British museum which still had a massive queue. Lots of tourists in
the central areas.
Our room was ready by 1pm so headed back there for a quiet
afternoon, showering, cups of tea and a bit of sleeping.
Meeting Evan and Becky at 6pm at a pub within walking
distance. A good catch up and a lovely roast lamb dinner. Unfortunately, I
coughed my way thru it so hopefully haven’t infected anyone else!!
26 May; Monday: Bank holiday: Fine with a few afternoon
showers, hot at times
A slow start after a reasonable sleep, it’s light at 4.30am
(maybe earlier) so doesn’t encourage sleeping in, plus the banging of
renovations on the above apartment starts at 8am, even though it’s a holiday
weekend. There’s a big construction site across the road but they’re not
working today.
We were keen to stay away from super touristy places. Got
the tube to Hammersmith and wandered back towards London on part of the Thames
path, a 298 km national walking trail from Woolwich (near the coast) to the
Cotswolds (the source of the Thames).
A nice walk with lots of lovely architecture (of all
centuries) to observe. The Hammersmith Bridge (1827), Harrods furniture depository
building 1911’ish (now apartments). Detoured through Fulham Palace and
gardens, which had been in continuous possession of the Bishops of London 8th
to 20th century and the main residence of the Bishop of London 11th
century to 1973. The gardens/grounds were impressive in the day as they
received exotic plants from all around the colonies. Smallish glass houses
built to grow pineapples etc. Backing dollars had come from profits of tobacco
and cotton plantations in the Americas, hence the organisation was well embedded in the slave
trading business.
Walked past Fulham Football grounds built 1896. There are
skinny doors along the road frontage which must have led you directly to your
seating section, sadly I think too narrow for modern times!?
Into the Chelsea area where a huge coal powered electricity
station had been turned into flash (we’re guessing) apartments, brand new on
sale now. Huge brick chimneys on top, very impressive! Also, some quite large
boathouse residences along the Thames in the Chelsea area, permanent boathouses
would have to be towed to move.
A snack then continued, light passing showers becoming more
threatening so bee-lined to Slone Square Underground and back to our hotel. It
was a five-minute turnaround then on a bus to go to Covent Garden district to
get dinner and go to the musical “Tina” which was excellent, no going to sleep
in that one!!
Home about 10.30pm, we filled our day in easily. London
has an abundance of grand buildings, it’s lovely to have time to wonder and
gaze. We both still have colds, but we are improving, Noel can even talk a-bit
now.
27 May; Tuesday:
Packed up, a quick breakfast at a Costa cafe (chain and not
great), as the cafe I had lined up was closed. Back to the hotel to check out
and walked to Pancras Railway Station. Our train leaving for Leicester at
10.30am. Very pleasant trip with lots of green trees, crops, and gently rolling
fields.
It was raining in Leicester, luckily a 3-minute walk to our
hotel, a Premier Inn where you can store a bike in your room, ideal when we need
to set and pack them up. Alan and Janet, our friends we left the bikes with last year,
pulled into the hotel parking at 12.30pm and voila we are reunited with our
friends and our trusty bikes (freshly serviced too). Squeezed the bikes into the lift to store in our
room, we’d asked for an accessible’ish room and were given a wheelchair
accessible room, so lots of space to sort ourselves out. Left them there and
joined Alan and Janet for an excursion.
First stop was Ouorn and Woodhouse Railway Station. The UK’s
only mainline heritage railway. Opened in 1899 as part of the Great Central
Railway. It became a popular station for day trips on bank holidays, serving
the industrial working class populations. Day trips organised by Mr Thomas Cook
was the start of Thomas Cook Travel. As road overtook rail transport, the
station closed in 1963. Today the station is set up as a display, including a
lady's waiting room, air raid shelter and booking office. There was a function
on for some children, so we were lucky enough to see a steam train with
carriages pull in, and with time for a cuppa in between, out of the station
again, very cool! Still very wet.
Drove to Bradgate Park, a 340 hectare public park of rocky
moorland. Home to 450ish red and fellow deer and lots of old Oak trees. It was
set up as a hunting park around 1241.
There was a Bradgate House built around 1520, in red brick.
Its ruins remain but are fenced off. Its most famous resident was Lady Jane
Grey, great granddaughter of Henry VIII. In 1553 at 16 years of age, she was
married to Lord Guildford Dudley and through the will of Henry VIII proclaimed
Queen of England and Ireland. Nine days later (17 years old), she was executed
(beheaded), for treason in the Tower of London, because of political manoeuvres
by Mary Tudor, Lady Greys grandmother...it was complicated!!
We walked up to Old John Tower, built around 1784, the
highest point on the park. There was also a war memorial there built 1920 to
commemorate Leicestershire Yeomanry, fallen in the Boer and WW1 wars.
Walked back to the carpark on a different route, in our wet weather gear, the
rain coming and going a bit.
Dinner at a close by village pub, the whole village owned by
a farming estate with all the buildings painted the same colours. Then dropped
back to our hotel. Another fabulous adventure courtesy of Alan and
Janet.
Noel seems to have a sore, swollen ankle, not sure how he
got that?
28 May; Wednesday: 6.2 km: Showers in the morning,
temperature ok.
Mostly a day of assembling. Found a place for breakfast then
back to the hotel.
Took the bikes for a ride around town. Rode through
Leicester Abbey Park. The Abbey was founded in the 12th century and
grew to become the wealthiest religious establishment within Leicestershire. It
was disestablished 1538, in debt, after a series of incompetent, corrupt and
extravagant abbots. Not much of the abbey left now.
Continued to the “old” part of town, very nice with lots of
old red brick buildings, elegant clock tower and fountain. Leicester Cathedral
where King Richard lll’s tomb is, after he was discovered and dug up from a
carpark, which was originally a Friary, in 2012. He had been killed in the battle of
Bosworth Field 1485.
Went back to the hotel to fit the bikes with their
accessories, which took a bit of puzzling.
Leicester was originally a Roman encampment, AD 47. In the
1790’s the Grand Canal linked the city to London, and it became a large
industrial hub specializing in textiles, shoes and engineering
firms.
Large immigrant populations arrived throughout. Polish
soldiers after WW2, Indian subcontinent 1960’s and Asian populations from Kenya
and Uganda 1970’s. There is 40% plus people living there that are not UK born.
As manufacturing declined and population numbers increased, the economic
opportunities have become limited as a result there seems to be a lot of
homeless people on the streets.
A walk in the evening to find some dinner, and the last
items organised, so tomorrow it’s “on your bike”!!
29 May; Thursday: 62 km’s; 11km/hr; 1000m; 19C (23C
max)
Windy, warmish, rain threatening.
And we’re off...bikes all packed and headed off towards
Foxton Locks at 8.30 am after breakfasting at the hotel.
Followed the Grand Union Canal path for a while then veered
off into the countryside, very green, cropping, some sheep, some beef. A lot of
farming smells all day, I think slurry had been spread on paddocks
everywhere!!
One sharp hill that we both walked, the back end of our
bikes feel so heavy!!
Got to Foxton Locks at 11.30am. It’s the largest “staircase
flight” locks on the English canal system, 10 locks with a passing pond in the
middle, built 1810-14. In 1900 an inclined plane was built to supersede the
locks, which was a boiler engine that hauled boats up and down the slope. This
was operational for about 10 years but proved to be uneconomic and was
demolished in 1926. The Inclined Plane restoration was started in 2008
and the boiler house has become a museum, but was closed today.
There were 3 boats coming down the locks, fascinating to
watch. One boat goes in a box that closes, the water drains out and then the
gates open for the boat to go into the next box.
We had some lunch there, it was a tourist attraction so
there was a pub and a few café type places to choose from. Noel’s ankle is
quite sore when he walks, so walking to the top of the locks and back was a bit
of a struggle for him.
We are half way to tonight's destination. We started to
follow the canal path again but it got very narrow and very rough so abandoned
at an overhead bridge back onto a road. The Wahoo navigated us back on track.
Some very busy short sections of road, a side or head wind and lots of small
ups and downs. We were definitely ready to stop when we pulled into the hotel
at Hillmorton at 4pm.
A cuppa and a shower went someway to reviving us. Dinner at
the hotel.
Noel has injured his leg/ankle probably on the first day in London,
possibly shin splits, his leg is swollen and he’s quite limpy.
It’s school holidays so there’s lots of kids about.
30 May; Friday: Fine, a bit windy. 47km, 19C (26C max)
Left hotel about 8.30am and rode into Rugby about 5kms away.
Rode past Rugby school, established 1567. A quick look in the shop and museum of Webb Ellis. A
walk around the town centre and a small supermarket for immediate supplies.
Back at our bikes we talked to a Swiss couple that were
having a coffee, they were bike touring as well. A chat with them and then we
each headed off in opposite directions.
Out of Rugby, retracing our steps, then down a hill on a
bike path (41) to Draycote Water, where there was a police cordon and so we
were directed along a footpath instead of the road. It was a very narrow, up
and down path, past some very surprised alpaca. The kissing gate at the end of
the path was problematic and we had to take the panniers off and lift the bikes
over the gate. Apparently, there was a search and rescue operation on the lake.
Continued on footpath through sheep paddocks and after a
while back onto road. Followed a canal path from Stockton to near Long
Itchington, 8 locks in one spot but not as steep as Foxton’s and off the path
at Bascote. Then up and down on roads, through another “road closed” sign and
arrived at Jo and Dean’s in Wellesborne about 3pm.
After a cuppa and shower we were in the car to be taken to
the village of Chipping Campden. We parked and shuttled to the Cotswold
Olimpick Games 1612, where we sat on the edge of a natural arena and watched
running races, champion of the hill, standing jump, Cotswold stone, spurning,
tug of war and world champion shin kicking events. Jo did a 2 loop cross
country running event, it looked tough.
Finally, the lighting of the beacon which was a giant
brazier filled with hay set on fire, a fireworks display then hundreds of
people walking back down the hill to town holding flaming torches...an
astonishing spectacle!! While watching the events, we saw in the distance, the
RAF Red Arrows doing a display and up to 10 hot air balloons drifting and just on
dusk a single aerobatic plane doing its tricks. An absolutely amazing evening!!
Back to Jo and Dean’s for a small wine, a nip of whiskey and
a good night's sleep.
Noel’s leg is quite swollen and very sore when walking,
especially down hill. It’s problematic and a puzzle how it even happened,
hopefully it heals soon.
31 May; Saturday: Windy, sunny, fine
A slow start, breakfast outside on the patio. Washing on and
a plan hatched.
In the car, stopping for coffee at a favourite of Jo and
Dean’s, a Nepalese inspired café in the countryside, lovely gardens and outside
spaces. Lunch at Cotswolds Distillery at Stourton Shipston-on-Stour.
A walk around a National Trust garden Hidcote Manor Garden
near Chipping Campden, beautiful early summer gardens, very impressive and quite
busy with visitors. It’s a well-known arts and crafts garden with linked garden
rooms. Originally an estate purchased by a wealthy American woman, Gertude
Winthrop in 1907, her son Lawrence Johnston designed the garden.
We drove back to the house and an hour later went to Warwick
for a look at the town, which was lovely. It’s adjacent to the Avon River and
has a beautiful castle dating from 12th century. A fire through the
town in 1694 meant a lot of rebuilding in the 18th century, some
lovely buildings in the old town. Had a drink in the town square sitting in the
sun and dinner in a Mexican restaurant. A very enjoyable day out!!
1 June; Sunday: Cooler, late afternoon rain;
A slow start, after breakfast Jo and Dean took us to
Charlecote Park, a National Trust garden and park about 3 km’s from
Wellsbourne. A 16th Century red brick country house (mansion)
surrounded by its own deer park on the banks of the River Avon. The land of 185
acres was owned by the Lucy family in 1247 AD and decedents still live in the
house today, although since 1946 the land has been owned by the National Trust.
We walked some of the grounds through deer paddocks and past some Jacobs sheep.
Several others out walking too.
Back to Jo and Deans for a change of clothes and they
dropped us off at Baroset Barn for lunch with our in-laws to be. Johanna and
Garry were there already and Sandra and Dominic turned up soon after. They
all seemed lovely, Izzy is very much like her Mum. A lovely roast lunch too. Jo
and Garry dropped us back to Jo and Deans.
A bit of planning done for our next steps. Dean took us to
another Country Estate house, now operating as a hotel, about 5 km away, Walton
Hall. We walked a loop on roads through crop fields then into a hall of the
building, another very big house. The whole complex seemed reasonably deserted.
Drove back via another big 18th Century house
Compton Verney, it sometimes hosts summer concerts.
Dinner in tonight. Talked to Rob Miller and co on video
call. Gave Mitchell a phone call too. It’s been a fabulous interlude to our
biking, thank you so much Jo and Dean!
2 June; Monday: 28km: fine, light wind. 15C (24C max)
Up at 7am, breakfasted, packed and ready to leave at 8.15am.
A massive thank you Jo and Dean, hope to see you back in NZ sometime.
Wound our way on quiet roads to Stratford upon Avon. Parked
up in the canal area. Went for a walk past the Royal Shakespeare Theatre,
across the canal and back via a Shakespeare statue. We biked up a main street
to look at Shakespeare’s birthplace, that area was teeming with tourists, lots
of guided tours, so we didn’t stay for long.
Stratford upon Avon is a popular tourist destination, in
part because it is the birthplace of William Shakespeare (1564-1616). It’s also
home to the Royal Shakespeare Company. Stratford upon Avon was settled by the
Romans 1-5 Centuries AD. The Anglo Saxons invaded in the 7th Century and it has been populated ever since. Shakespeare is its most famous son and that’s
what draws the tourists of today.
As we left Stratford upon Avon we attempted to use the canal
path, but it was very narrow and busy with walkers so took a street detour
instead, then went back onto the canal path as foot traffic dwindled. A canal
closed section saw us detour through streets but with the second one we went
cross country along the edge of a wheat paddock.
Made our way to Wootton Waven about 1pm and called on Mike,
(Tim’s dad). Mike had lunch organised for us which was lovely. Stayed there for
about 1.5 hours. Left Mike’s to go to the Wootton Waven railway station very
close by and got on a train to Birmingham. We are staying at a Travel Lodge
tonight and are booked on a train to Bristol tomorrow. The bikes are a bit of a
struggle to get on the trains, but easier than the alternative of 3 days
cycling.
A walk downtown for dinner, a mish mash collection of
buildings, from the very old and grand to the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s high rises
scattered throughout. Not a pretty city, but quite orderly, (we are only
looking at one small area so not a particularly informed opinion!). It’s the
second largest city in England. Birmingham suffered heavy bombing by the
Germans in WW2, so the gaps have been replaced with “functional of their time”
buildings.
A nice brewery for dinner and back to the hotel. There are a
few inebriated people about but not many visibly homeless. Birmingham's symbol
is a bull, it comes from the 16th Century practice of bull baiting,
near the now bull ring shopping mall. Bull baiting is tethering a bull to an
iron hoop and setting dogs onto it until it is immobilized, a betting sport but
it certainly doesn’t sound very pleasant.
3 June; Tuesday: Raining am, cool wind pm. 38 km, 12
without panniers, 18C
Went out to find breakfast near the Bull Ring shopping
centre. There is a modern mall and an older style food and “stuff” market. We
were too early for most cafes so ended up with a Starbucks sandwich.
Packed up and left for the Birmingham Station, a 5-minute
bike ride, in the rain. Got our tickets sorted and waited on platform 7a
accessed by a lift. Train arrived and we had to unload the panniers and hang
the bikes, a bit awkward but ok.
Travelled through rolling farmland, but you only get
glimpses as the railway is mostly banked on both sides. One and a half hours
later we pull into Bristol, thus saving 1.5-2 days biking.
There is a cold wind in Bristol. Heading out of the station
we found a very popular bakery, stopped there for lunch.
Then wound through a few streets and onto cycleway 4, which
was a railway path, sealed all the way to Bath, 28 km’s. Mostly slightly
downhill, bonus! The cycleway finished in the middle of Bath.
We found our way to our hotel, in a smart avenue of smart
apartments. Very helpful staff, with our bikes stored inside. For some
reason we have been upgraded, so are on the 3rd/4th floor
looking out to Bath rugby and croquet grounds and to Priory Park in the
distance.
We had a bit of recovery time i.e. a cup of tea, then took
our bikes, minus their luggage, on tour. First through the main areas of town,
which is very busy with tourists and tour groups. Past the Bath Abbey,
view of Pulteney Bridge crossing the Avon River, past the Roman Baths,
originating 70AD. Through shopping streets to the Circus, a historic ring of
town houses built 1754-1768. Then to The Crescent, a row of 30 terraced houses
built 1767-1774.
We then biked past Victoria Park and over a hill to the
Royal Hospital of Bath. The hospital had an Urgent Doctor facility, we’re still
concerned about Noel’s leg/foot as it’s still very swollen. Noel had a look in
the waiting room but thought there was a lot of people (maybe 100) waiting so we
gave it amiss. Continued our loop and found a pub for dinner.
I had the bright idea of going up Priory Hill for a view, we
got so far up a hill, but it was the wrong one, so came back down and followed
the Avon back to the centre. Then back to our hotel about 8.45pm.
Bath is a very attractive city, wherever you look. It’s a
UNESCO world heritage site (1987). Its buildings have been carefully
maintained, and new buildings have been built using the same limestone rock and
the same heights as the old, so everything fits and blends in. Bath has
evidence of human occupation since the Mesolithic period, so stone, bronze iron
ages then the Romans 60-70 AD, attractive because of the hot/healing springs,
and there’s been people ever since.
A lovely city to visit.
4 June; Wednesday: Raining: 40 km, 15C (21C
max)
Breakfast at 8.30am, then some delaying tactics in the hope
the rain will disappear and by 9.30am it had!
Retraced our steps through Bath, only 1 or 2 tourists around
the Abbey and hanging outside the Roman Baths. Biking up a main walking street,
a nicely dressed lady coming towards us told us we were matchy-matchy with our
colours!! That put a smile on our faces!
We got onto the 2 Tunnels Greenway, an old railway line,
Bath to Midford. It went through 2 tunnels, Devenshire 409m long and Combe Down
1672m long (1.03 miles). Following mostly path but on the road through the
village of Wellow, which was very pretty. Stopped at the village shop for
flapjacks, an oat-based muesli bar.
Continued on to Rodstock picking up the trail again on
the outskirts. The trail went through some of the town then onto road, up and
down, up and down though not awful. It started raining and got cold about 10
kms from Wells.
Arrived in Wells about 3pm and booked into a hotel. We biked
past Wells Cathedral but there was filming going on for something so the
street was lined with big white trucks and closed to traffic. The
Cathedral had scaffolding and shielding cloth around bits of it, so no
postcard perfect photos for us. Spotted a couple of chaps going to the crew
canteen to the side of the Cathedral, both in flowing capes, one all shiny
gold. According to google it was a Hollywood fantasy film Masters of the Universe.
The locals didn’t know what it was or at least weren’t telling us!
Priority was a cuppa and a shower to warm up. Noel stayed
indoors to do some admin and to stay off his leg, which doesn’t affect his
biking but is quite sore when he walks?
I went for a walk around Wells, it is so lovely!! A
Cathedral town sitting under the hills of Mendip. The city was a Roman
settlement and became an important centre under the Anglo-Saxons 704 AD. In 909
AD it became the seat of a newly formed Bishopric. The Cathedral and
Bishops Palace was constructed in the first half of the 13th
Century. It has naturally occurring springs within the old palace walls, which
kept/keeps the moat filled. The main street has water flowing continuously
along stone channels. In the 1700’s there was wool and textile
trades and later dairy agriculture, but the economy has always been tied to the
Cathedral and the wealth of its Bishops.
A very pretty town and an ideal place to stop for the night.
5 June; Thursday: Raining. 44km, 13C (19C max)
It’s wet! Quite wet! We had a 7.15am breakfast to get ahead
of the other bikers that are staying here, about 8-10 of them. They’ve been
staying here for 3-4 nights and are using Wells as the base and doing day rides
around the area.
Left about 8.30am, via a quick look through the open gate of
the Bishops Palace, and a supermarket. Back following cycle route 3, along
roadside path then onto quiet roads.
Cycling by a roundabout towards Glastonbury we went right
past West Mendip Hospital, Urgent Treatment Centre/Minor Treatment Centre,
still wondering why/what is wrong with Noel’s leg/ankle, we called in to see
how busy they were. The receptionist said they weren’t busy and 10 minutes
later he was seen by a nurse and nurse practitioner. They decided no blood clots,
no breaks just soft tissue damage (possibly brought on by the blood thinners and exercise combination), so elevation when he can and Ibuprofen
often, reassuring at least!
Off we went again and up a footpath and a very steep hill.
Parking for Glastonbury Tor was at the top of the hill, then
a steep 20-minute walk from there, according to a couple of ladies we talked
to, so that’s what we did. The land the Tor is on is surrounded by myth and
mystic. It’s a 158m hill of layers of Jurassic era clay and blue
lias, alternating layers of limestone and mudstone, that has stood firm
while the surrounding soils have eroded. The Tor is surrounded by step like
terraces, which the what/how/why are still being debated today. Artifacts from
human visitation have been found dating from the Iron Age (1200-550BC) to Roman
times. Several buildings were constructed on the summit during Anglo Saxon and
early Medieval periods and probably a church amongst it, believed to be
destroyed by a earthquake in 1275AD. A stone church of St Micheal replaced it
in the 14th Century, and the tor (tower) remains. Lovely views from
there, even with the clouds.
Onto Glastonbury for lunch, a busy place with walking tours
and walking groups hiking through. From Neolithic times, it’s a town of rich
heritage, presenting itself as “traditionally the oldest above ground Christian
Church in the world”. There is King Arthur legends, mystical energy shops and
celebrations, music festivals and a whole lot of drugs I imagine, it has a very
alternative vibe! Also has the remnants of an Abbey, established in the 8th
Century.
Lunch at a café, sat outside and it poured, thunder rolling
around. Once it eased off, we left, down paths by wetland reserve, and peat
harvesting areas. Wound our way around the countryside, staying away from major
roads. We were meant to take a canal path to Bridgewater but it was
closed, so we followed roads and footpath instead.
Found our hotel, our bikes are in a wedding marquee tonight.
Dinner at the hotel and then we went for a walk. Bridgewater seems a bit
disjointed, a mish mash of buildings, different ages, some look abandoned. A lot
of people hanging around, smoking, vaping, drinking, it doesn’t look very
prosperous.
A bit of forward planning for our next 9 days before the
Isle of Wight.
6 June, Friday.
64km, 17C (22C max)
8:15am
departure from Bridgwater after a yummy, supplied breakfast. Initially following a canal path
beside a canal that doesn’t join up with any other canals, the Bridgwater-Taunton
canal. Some boats parked up but not much sign of life although path quite busy
with walkers, dog walkers and we stopped and chatted to an oncoming bike-packer
who is doing the Lands End to John O’Grouts route. That route does the length
of the UK, we are on part of it this morning and had done sections of it last
year further north, Cycle Route 3.
The canal
route took us into Taunton where it was trying to rain. A modern looking town
with lots of apartment buildings on the canal, also rode past the Somerset
Cricket Arena and a glance down a more historic main street. Stopped for a breather
and some adjustments on the front roll holder and one of the bottle holders on
Noel’s bike then continued on into the hills.
Just as we
were contemplating lunch… a pub appeared, so easy decision to not let the
chance pass by!
From there on some very narrow road lanes and then onto the Great Western Canal
Path. The canal was constructed in the 1800’s to cart lime rock form Lowdells
to a crushing plant in Tiverton, and also for cartage of coal to the various
lime kilns. The canal barges were pulled by horses and hence the wide canal
paths. Very nice to ride on, especially as they are basically flat to slightly
downhill in the direction we are riding. A lot of walkers, dogs and fishing
folk utilising the path as well.
The first
canal we followed was dotted with concrete pill boxes built at the start of WW2
as a first line of defence if the Germans were successful in a land invasion from
the south.
Arrived at
Tiverton at 3:30pm, before check-in time and as there didn’t seem to be a convenient
café we just sat in a sheltered carpark out of the wind then went to our BnB at 4pm. A
nice place with our room overlooking the River Exe and the hills beyond…
tomorrows challenge!!
Occupation
of Tiverton dates to the stone age, its growth and prosperity in the 16th
and 17th centuries was due to the wool/textile trade. As the industrial
revolution took over, the town went into decline but was saved by a lace-making
industry. It is now a dormitory town for the cities of Taunton and Exeter. A
mix of old and new buildings, the old buildings exuding the wealth of times
past.
Dinner
across the river at a busy fish and chip/burger café, and a short walk around
the town afterwards. A look at St Peters Church dating from 1073 and the 1800’s
Tiverton Castle which now comprises a group of ruined perimeter walls, towers
and buildings. There’s quite a cold wind so not very encouraging to be out and
about, also heavy rain predicted but here’s hoping it is overnight.
Didn’t see
much stock on our days riding, although some huge farm barns with the odour to
go with them. A lot of crop, corn or maize, cereal and some peas on very red-looking
soils.
7 June, Saturday.
54km, 10C (16C max)
A later
start enforced as breakfast not served until 8:30am so away from BnB 9:15am and
immediately a stop at a bakery for supplies. Light rain is already falling.
A shock
with a big, long hill climbing up the aptly named “Longdrag Hill”. We missed a
turnoff to Tombstone Road and did a couple of extra kms as a result, Once onto Tombstone
Road it led us towards Nomansland and it is getting very wet. Rolling rural
countryside with cereals and grass, a few cattle but not much livestock overall. There
are roadside honesty stalls but eggs seems to be the main item they are selling,
plus a couple of farm shops advertising eggs and milk… but no cakes!
Raining continuously
and sometimes very heavy, our wet weather gear is earning it’s keep. Arrived at
the small, cute village of Lapford 12:15pm to the sound of church bells… just as
we were thinking we may find a church porch to shelter in, wedding guests were arriving, so don’t think they would have been impressed if we did that! Awful weather for a wedding, poor couple!
Luckily
there was the “Old Malt Scoop Inn” just across the street from the church and
it was open and serving food. It was busy with locals gazing out the windows
for a glimpse of the (perhaps soggy) bride… the staff welcomed us in and told
us to sit in a window seat to see as well!
A lovely
lunch and then we layered up and departed into heavy rain just as the bells
were ringing out to signify the end of the ceremony, and the pub began filling with
wedding guests.
It was very
wet as we biked up and down, up and down including down some extremely steep
roads.
We arrived into
Okehampton around 4pm and we were very wet, dripping in fact although our wet
weather gear is good so not wet to the skin. Caro is hunting for barley sugars
as she has completely lost her muscle power with 4km still to go, and uphill
for part of it. Came right with a sugar burst!
We are in an
AirBnB tonight, a room in a house being hosted by an ex–Hong Kong couple and
located about 20mins walk into town. After hot showers and many cups of tea we
walked into town for dinner at a pub, some parts of which date to the 1600’s.
Okehampton
is beside the River Okement with the earliest recorded settlement by the Saxons
in 980AD. It is recorded as a place for slaves to be freed at the crossroads.
The town grew on the medieval wool trade and has a 15th century
chapel and castle amongst its notable buildings although there is not much left
of the castle.
It is near Dartmoor National Park and there is also large military bases nearby. There doesn’t seem
to be any current big industries here but the town does seem prosperous
compared to the previous two towns we stayed in. There is a mix of old and new
subdivisions, some of which seem mouldy on the outside… leaky homes?, we found out later that it's not mould but some type of rock/rain reaction instead.
8 June, Sunday.
68km, 14C (21C max)
Came down
to our provided breakfast this morning to find already served plates containing
bacon, sausage, scrambled egg, mushroom, tomato, mixed vege plus a croissant, fruit,
cheese and cereal (which was at least optional) … so a hearty start to the day.
Then we were presented with chocolates as we walked out the door… amazing!!
After dropping
into the town of Okehampton it was an immediate climb back up the hill to where
the railway station is located, for us to join onto a walking/biking rail side path.
The path led to the village of Lydford 16km, on a busy path with walkers, runners,
bikers, little bikers learning to ride, and dogs. Very pleasant almost flat
riding winding its way around the side of hills so had lovely views also.
At Lydford
the path stopped so biked through the town as the church bells tolled for 11am
service. Lydford castle is beside the church, we stopped and had a wander
around. A very English setting, a quaint village and pealing church bells!
Quiet road
riding with a very steep drop and back up to the Lydford Gorge National Trust
site. A 2.4km long gorge on the river Lyd located on the edge of the Dartmoor
National Park. We did a 30minute walk around the river and through and above
the Devils Cauldron on a slightly scary walkway suspended over the churning
cauldron… quite special!
Back on the
bikes and further up the road was another entrance to the site, to view the White
Lady waterfall, but after seeing photo’s in the visitor centre we decided to
keep going as appears to be just a thin tall stream of water.
On some
undulating (read up and down) roads for a while that had expansive views on one
side and then onto a rough, rocky pathway. We passed Mary Tavy Power Station
and 10 minutes later we popped out from the path at Peter Tavy Inn. Perfect
timing for a pub lunch but as we are still carrying yesterday’s sandwiches we
reluctantly pedaled on past! Stopped for lunch on the side of the path then
more cycle path, small section of road before another path. Called Drakes Trail,
it is ex railway too and that took us all the way to Tavistock. Overlooking the
town from a viaduct the old part looked to have dark grey stone buildings and churches.
Wound through the town then back onto railway path, still quite high up and
going over viaducts with lovely country views.
It was
uphill from Tavistock levelling out at a plateau at Yelverton. It was extraordinary
cycling onto the plateau, where we emerged seemed to be at a crossroads, and
had sheep, wildish horses, people and their dogs, a couple of tents being
dismantled so had been there for the day or weekend, and an ice-cream van
selling its wares!!!!
We had to
get around the corner a little before we saw any housing. There is some newish
developments as well as older places, quite a small settlement although lots
of people walking, biking, recreating on the greens and moor etc. A chap on the
trail had told us to watch out for the nice pub but we seemed to miss that!
Then it was
8km of gentle downhill, viaducts and a tunnel, amazing and enjoyable riding
although a bit cold. Downhill all the way to Plymouth where we followed a very
busy estuary path and wound our way into the city.
We got to our
very impressive and grand old, 1860’s, hotel about 6pm where our bikes are
stored in the ballroom! Went and found a Sunday Roast at a foreshore pub and then
a short walk through The Hoe, a park which used to be a defence force base but
is now a park and gardens.
9 June, Monday.
16km, 17C (21C max)
After
breakfast at the hotel, we left our luggage there and did a bike tour around
Plymouth. We followed the seawall passing the saltwater pool (lido) that is
currently under restoration. A few hardy souls swimming in the sea.
We passed
under the Citadel, parts of which are still being used by the military. Then
onto the Barbicon area, for a look at the Mayflower Steps. The Pilgrim Fathers,
102 of them plus 30 crew, are thought to have used the steps as they left from
Plymouth Harbour in 1620 crossing the Atlantic to near the tip of Cape Cod,
Massachusetts, over a sailing period of 10 weeks.
There are a
lot of plaques in place commemorating various different people: Queen Elizabeth
and Prince Philip departing on one trip, early unionists that were sent to
Australia 1834, convicts similarly sent to Australia, 1787-1863.
Plymouth
was one of the most heavily bombed cities in the UK during WW2 however some
areas of the Barbicon survived and hence still narrow lanes and lovely old
buildings.
We then
biked to the Royal William Victualling Yard depot of the Royal Navy that
historically was used for sorting/storing ship supplies. Built between 1826-1835 it
covers an area of 16 hectares. The area passed out of defence hands in 1992 and
has been, and continues to be, redeveloped into restaurants, apartments etc.
Obviously still a lot to do but it will be a fabulous asset to the city once
all complete.
We had a
quick look at Devils Point and then biked back to the hotel to collect our
bags. Stopped for lunch just near the hotel then found our way to the railway
station to wait a couple of hours for our train to Exeter. People watching as
8-10 nervous young folk were filling out their forms as they waited to go for Navy
interviews.
An hour on
the train to arrive at Exeter 4:30’ish, saving ourselves a day or 2 of riding.
Wound our way from the station along cycle route 2 past the River Exe and into town
and our pub accommodation for the night. The White Horse, our second White Horse
Inn we have stayed in, a chain type of pub. Our pie meal at the pub tonight
wasn’t as good as it should have been, and took an hour to arrive, but cheap…
the joys of a one-night stand!!! It did have heated towel rail so a little hand
washing done.
A walk
around Exeter, some amazing buildings including an 11th century
Cathedral and surrounds. A choir practicing in the Cathedral added to the atmosphere. Tudor buildings in
some of the streets. It looks a nice city, a university city so has that "feel". Also a few homeless and drunks about the main shopping area.
Exeter was established on the wool trade but was in decline by the end of WW1. Now a
university city and tourism hub for Devon and Cornwall.
10 June,
Tuesday. 43km, 20C (25C max)
A hunt
for breakfast, and settled on the easy option of a Pret-a-manger. Back to our hotel via
Exeter Castle (Rouge Mont Castle), not much left just wall and entrance. It was
built in the northern corner of the town, Roman city walls starting in 1068 AD then
an outer bailey added in the 12th century after it suffered a 3-month
siege.
Three women
were executed in the castle grounds in 1682, the last recorded people to be
executed for witchcraft.
Noel oiled
up the bike chains and we left around 9:15am. Dropped down to the Exeter
Quay and then followed trail along River Exe before joining a canal path
through Topsham and along the Exe estuary to the lovely seaside resort town of
Exmouth. We had stayed in a home exchange at Topsham in 2019, ironically today
biking right past the end of the same street... almost déjà vu but true!
Found our
way to the Exmouth beach which is lovely golden/red sand, still not quite beach weather
but almost! Some beach volleyball happening, people strolling and many school
kids doing beachy things, swimming with floats etc.
A cinnamon
scroll there to sustain ourselves and up over the hill on road to get back on a
path. Old railway trail, then a path beside a live railway line right beside the
sea. Past a navy marine assault course and lodgings. We were on path most of the way
until we got to the streets of Budleigh Salteron, a pretty seaside village with
a stony beach.
Purchased
Tesco supermarket sandwiches and sat on a beach side bench seat to eat them…
when Caro’s sandwich was snatched out of her hand by a seagull!!! We had no
warning of it swooping in over her shoulder, pecked her thumb and forefinger with
no damage and off with the sandwich! Needless to say she hunched over to eat
her second sandwich very carefully.
We walked
up the coastal path a ways but no use going further as it was heading back
towards Exmouth and beyond. The walking path is the Southwest Coast Path
recently made popular due to the book and movie “The Salt Path”. The path is
1100km and is from Minehead in Somerset to Poole Harbour in Dorset.
Today we
followed cycle route 2 which at times was on the Southwest coastal path, there
are a few day walkers and spotted one chap with a large tramping pack that we
had also seen in Exmouth. A lot of “senior” (as if we’re not!?) groups out and
about today too.
From there
it was on roads, at times very narrow ones. Went through and over, the Otter Estuary Nature Reserve, on boardwalk… no otters spotted though. It is the River
Otter that feeds into the reserve. Up a hill on path and passing through the
village of Otterton, a very pretty place with thatched roof houses. The village
is described as an instructive example of local building from the 16th
century onwards.
From there
some very narrow, but surprisingly busy, lanes to wind our way up a hill, at the
top of which is Mutter’s Moor… there was certainly some muttering as we puffed
our way up. After a “good on ya” from another couple of cyclists and then a
chat with a couple of walkers we dropped down a 20% gradient (!!!!) hill. Stopped
at a pseudo Castle with clock tower, 19th century cliff cottage and
a WW2 pill box and viewed the tall red cliff coastline.
A short ride
from there into the very busy Sidmouth, where lots of people are strolling the
pebble/stone beach. A bit of a struggle to get to our Airbnb, as we were going
against traffic on one-way streets and then came to a river ford over the
River Sid. But made it eventually, to be greeted by Tess the Spaniel (we had
been pre-warned she would be the sole meet and greet).
Walked for
dinner to the Volunteer Hotel, which is the first pub we came to. It had
delicious food which was classier than normal pub food.
A walk down
to the sea through the town which was now quiet. Watched some Morris Dancing on
the promenade, fun to watch and a regular social group we think, then back to our house.
We have not seen/met our host, just Tess!
Our warmest
day for a while, getting down to a tee shirt when going up hills. We could hear
artillery fire at one point, presumably exercises as there are a few military
bases in the area.
11 June,
Wednesday. 42km, 22C (31C max)
We met our
host Rebecca briefly this morning at breakfast, along with another guest who is staying
in the other room. Packed our bags but then walked along to a nearby
supermarket for supplies of hot cross buns and banana’s.
9:30am
departure through parkland beside the River Sid, or a tributary, then up the
very steep 16% gradient Salcombe Hill… quite a lot of pushing! At the top there
is a carpark for Salcombe National Trust property, which has walkways. We parked
the bikes and did the 30 minute return walk to the coast path. The views were a bit limited due to the gorse and blackberry although some
great views to the north.
Once back
riding we rode past a donkey sanctuary and a very large outdoor pig farm before
dropping down to Branscombe, a National Trust village that was once self-sufficient
with a bakery, forge, orchards and a water mill. It was known to be occupied between
2700 to 2000BC. From the 17th to 19th century it
was a source of handmade lace.
The bakery
was open so it would have been rude not to have something! A flapjack and chocolate stout cake… both delicious!!
Another long stretch of pushing the bikes up hill, again very narrow so at
times, when there was traffic, we were very close to the hedge rows which are full of very vicious
stinging nettle… not ideal! The roads to get in and out of Branscombe are very
narrow and steep, it would tend to put you off living there we think.
The area was being used as a filming location that was being packed down, filming in and
around the Beer quarry and caves area. Passed through village of Beer but didn’t
drop right down to the sea as we already knew we had more hills looming without
adding another one!
We dropped
down into Seaton; we had been told by a chap we had chatted to previously, that it is a bit
rundown and indeed it was looking tired although improvement was obviously
happening. A stony beach, smaller stones than yesterday but no chance of sand in
your shoes! An older sort of tourist place.
Followed a
path through the Seaton Marshes and stopped for lunch at a café on the other
side of the marshes. A small scenic tram line runs from Seaton, beside the Marshes
and looked very popular.
From there, there were
hills and more hills to the town of Axminster, no carpet spotted, then more
hills to get out of there. A long continuous but not too steep climb followed
by undulating up and down riding to arrive at our Newlands Holiday Park at
Charmouth. We are booked in a lovely unit, very similar to a NZ motel unit.
Dinner at the park restaurant which was a lovely meal, the park is very
quiet mid-week, we imagine it gets very busy over weekends and peak summer.
After
dinner we went for a walk up Stonebarrow Hill to get some coastal views, the
hill is a National Trust property. Quite a climb up from the campground
and once again views limited due to the gorse and blackberry. However we walked
south along the coastal path which gave better views north and over Charmouth.
Ended up walking right down into Charmouth and then back through the town to
get to the campground… a bigger walk than intended but Noel’s leg stood up to
it, seems to be largely recovered but took a while.
It has been
a fine summers day, we could have almost used the tent tonight? A little bit of
handwashing is done as we have a good, heated towel rail in the unit.
12 June,
Thursday. 50km, 17C (23C max)
A slow and
reluctant start this morning as the predicted rain had arrived, heavily!
Breakfast from the campground store and then left the park, with all its lovely
facilities, at 10:15’ish.
Shortly
after leaving the park we had to do a couple of hundred metres on an A road,
far enough, and then off onto country lanes. Rolling hills and although it was
clear when we left some heavy rain arrived lasting about 10 minutes, not cold though.
We arrived
at Bridport about lunchtime, it was quite busy with traffic, and the footpaths
were quite narrow, so although we did wonder about stopping, we carried on to
West Bay. We had passed through West Bay in 2019 en route to Topsham.
The area
was used in 1942 by Canadian troops to practice landing raids on Dieppe, the
first attempt was terrible, so they repeated the training exercise 11 days
later with better success. Sadly, the actual Dieppe Raid was a disaster with the
RAF losing 106 airplanes, and the Navy losing 33 landing craft and a destroyer and
within 10 hours 3623 men had been killed, wounded or captured… a 68% casualty
rate for the Canadians.
The town of
West Bay was also the fictional setting for the 2018 television series
Broadchurch. We found lunch in a pub there, interestingly the manager an ex NZ’er
who recognised our accent and stated, “you’re a long way from home”.
As we left
we were on busier roads initially but soon returned to quiet country roads. After
the area of Littlebredy, we had a steep climb. Littlebredy village is part of the
Bridehead Estate that comprises 2047 acres, a huge 9-bedroom house and 32 buildings
largely clustered within the village… some of which looked like they needed some serious
repair. Google research indicates that it was sold earlier in 2025, and likely
hence why a lot of activity around the main house, tree maintenance, weed
eating crew on the roadside and at least 5 white vans at the house. Builders
working on another house also. Interesting when googling it reports it has an “extensive
NZ style Dairy Enterprise”. The estimated guide price for sale was GBP 30
million!
Once up the
very steep hill and another busy road, then a minor road but still some hills
we arrived at the Hardy monument. Built in 1844 in memory of Vice Admiral Sir
Thomas Hardy, flag captain of HMS Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar. Hardy was
born in Dorset.
A mostly
downhill ride into Dorchester, cycle route 2 taking us through the middle of a
farmyard. It took us a while to find the entrance to our Dorchester AirBnB as
it is off a back lane, the property faces a busy main street… appears to
originally have been a shop or hairdresser.
Our lesson
for today is that apart from all the hills being on quiet roads is bliss
compared to being on busier roads.
Dinner
found very close to our lodgings, at the “Blue Raddle Freehouse” and it was delicious!!
13 June,
Friday. 57km, 22C (31C max)
A sunny and
warm day, easily recognised as every convertible car seemed to have their
hoods down!
Grabbed
breakfast at a café just down the street and on the road by 8:45am. Dorchester
rush hour traffic is a little chaotic to be maneuvering through on a bike,… too many cars, worse than Queenstown! Soon out of that and into
nice flat country riding past some very big country houses. Rode through the
edge of the town of Wool, which seemed pretty ordinary but claiming to be the
gateway to the Jurassic Coast… it’s nowhere near the coast so that seemed a bit
optimistic!!! Also, no sheep in sight even though it is called Wool!
Riding
through a lot of Oak Forest and Grassland areas that are fenced off as training
and live firing ranges for the army. There is a large army camp, Bovington,
close to Wool.
Then over
some heath lands, which was a bit undulating, some of it owned by the National
Trust and the occasional sign saying “Don’t feed the pigs, they are
regenerating the land”.
Arrived at
Corfe Castle which is both the village and the Castle ruins above the village.
A very busy place with tourists. After buying a bakery lunch and eating in the
village square, we went into the castle area: some of which is being restored
to safe structures.
In 1074 AD William
the Conqueror exchanged a church in Gillingham for the hill the castle sits on
and the land around it. The first stone was laid in 1086. It is believed that
the area of Corfe has been occupied from 6000BC. King Edward the Martyr was
murdered here in March 978 on the site where the castle was built. The Castle was
besieged twice, 1643 and 1646 then destroyed by Parliament troops and left
looking not much better than it does today. Lovely views from the top however.
Leaving
there we wound our way on mostly quiet roads, through a gravel track which was
bit rough at the start, and out to the Sandbanks ferry crossing. There are a
lot of cars and campers lining the last bit of road, people out walking on the
Studland and Godlington Heath nature reserves with a few obviously camping in
their vans for the weekend.
The Sandbanks
ferry is a vehicular chain ferry which crosses the entrance to Poole Harbour,
it takes less than 5 minutes to reach the other side but saved us 30km cycling!
Poole looks a well to do settlement, huge houses lining the water, flash cars
and a Rick Stein Restaurant… a bit of coin about the place it suggests. We biked
without stopping and up and over a small hill to suddenly be on the Bournemouth
Promenade.
The long
beach looked spectacular on such a stunning day, a seemingly endless stretch of
golden sand. The promenade wall is 16km long and there was a lot of people
strolling, biking, sunbathing, swimming… a lot of skin on show.
The promenade
is lined on the landward side with hundreds of beach huts of various designs
and colours, some are 2 story but separate huts so double the rental… even one
complex being triple level. People sit
outside them in their deck chairs etc with refreshments, they are small units
with no electricity or facilities but may have a kitchen bench and cupboards
along with a storage spot for your chairs/umbrellas etc. Strictly day use, a
few being used today but it isn’t peak summer yet, although a truly stunning
day.
We left the
beach via a steep roadway and found our hotel in the suburb of Boscombe,
checked in and stored the bikes in the locked bar/function room for the night.
A walk this
evening to the main area of Bournemouth and a pub meal… not the best pub meal
by far but cheap!! That part of the town looking a bit rough, so we went back
down to the pier with the “fun zone”, but it was all closed down for the
evening. Many people were still wandering and some still swimming.
There are
some cliff areas along the beach that are slipping, which is an obvious
problem, also at least 3 large hotels that are closed and deteriorating… presuming
cheap flights to Europe and possibly Covid has affected the tourist numbers and
Bournemouth might be a fading star.
The evening
sky has clouded up with the occasional rumble of thunder, it is meant to pass
through tonight and clear tomorrow so here’s hoping.
14 June,
Saturday. 33km, 22C (29C max)
In did rain
overnight, and a bit cooler today. A relaxed start with a walk to the Boscombe
area for breakfast, lots of café choices once we got to the main shopping area.
Departed
from the hotel around 10:30am and dropped down onto the promenade of Boscombe, a
nice beach although quite windy today so people on the beach had their tent
shelters erected. The sea looked less swimmable here with lots of protection groynes
but there was one lifeguard patrolled area. The beach and beach huts are still
popular.
Lifted away
from the beach and heading for Christchurch, we could have ridden along further
to Hengistbury Head Beach but would have had a brutal headwind to contend with
coming back so decided not to.
Parked our
bikes up at Christchurch Priory and had a walk around the inside, very solid
with arches and columns. It’s history goes back to at least the 11th
century and it is on the site of an earlier church dating back to 800AD. In the
13th century the nave aisles were vaulted and the church expanded.
A quick
walk up the main street of town, quite busy so we left with the promising
thought of lunch in the next town of Highcliffe. Winding around on paths and
residential streets we by-passed one pub “The Distressed Ship”. As we got
closer to Highcliffe there was lots of people parking cars and walking towards
the centre of town, cars everywhere in queues, and then the street closed off
as there is a food festival on the go. That wasn’t going to work for us with
laden bikes so although still hungry, we changed direction and left the chaos
behind.
Stopped at
a lovely looking café on top of Blackberry Hill not long after, but it was
closed, so down to New Milton where it was quiet and we found a couple of cafes for food, choices!
From there
mostly quiet roads as we made our way towards Lymington, including briefly on a
road through New Forest National Park. We couldn’t check into our lodgings
until 4pm so we stopped at the “Lion and Lamb Freehouse” for a beer/cider to
fill in ½ hr, ooh, the hardship.
Got to our
accommodation, a room in a house with a couple of cereals and milk provided.
Nice room in a nice house. We walked down to Lymington township and quay stopping
en-route for a delicious pub meal at the “Fishermans Rest”.
Saw the type
of ferry we will be on tomorrow as it pulled into the Lymington pier. We walked
back through the very cute old town and then part of the very pleasant looking
new town as well.
15 June,
Sunday. 47km, 22C (31C max)
Away from
our accommodation at 9am and rode down to the ferry terminal, got on the 10am
ferry we had already booked and arrived at Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight at
10:52am after crossing the Solent Strait.
The Isle of
Wight has a very long history, lots of dinosaur fossils of a variety of species
have and are still being found. These date to 110-125 million years ago, also
artifacts found are attributed to the stone age (axes) and possibly up to
500,000 years old. Possibly Neanderthals also based on burial chambers from 5000 years ago, and tools from Bronze and Iron ages. The Romans had been here with
traces of residences although not forts, also the Vikings.
Latterly
Queen Victoria had a favourite residence, her winter property called Osborne
House which dates from 1845, and she died on the island in 1901. Her love of the
island led to it becoming a more fashionable holiday resort as people sought to
follow her example.
The island
also had several observation stations and transmission sites during WW2, and was
heavily bombed but not invaded during the conflict.
As we left Yarmouth
we biked through wetland area on path, a quick stop at a Tesco’s for some lunch
supplies (and a fruitless search for some laundry sheets) then onto Freshwater
Bay. This is the gateway to the Needles headland, lovely white cliffs but also
a stiff wind blowing in… so we rode up the road a little and lunched in a
carpark out of the worst of the wind.
Riding
undulating road following the coast before turning inland and visiting the
National Trust Mottistone Gardens and manor house. The Manor House, 1567, is
not open to the public but the lovely gardens are. The whole house was remodeled
in the 1920’s. We had a quick walk around the gardens and grabbed a drink at
the café to sustain us as we still have 30km to go.
Passed
through Brightstone village, which had some beautiful thatched roof houses,
then weaving along country roads. Lots of maize, some more advanced than what
we have seen on the mainland. Through the town of Ventor where you could see a
line up of container ships out at sea.
Our last
5km of riding was on the “Red Squirrel Trail” from Wroxall to Shanklin
following largely downhill ex railway line so that was wonderful, there has
been a bit of climbing for the day. Arriving in Shanklin we had to climb back
up a bit to get to our booked accommodation, a whole 2-storey house including
full laundry, yay!
Shanklin is
a lovely village/town right on the coast, tonight we just stock up on supplies
for breakfast and laundry at a convenience store then have a Sunday roast meal
at one of the pubs, bliss! Back home a load of washing done in hope it will dry
on a rack.
A very
scenic day with lots of up and down riding and a couple of significant uphills
thrown in. We were lucky to have a tail wind most of the day. Stunning
coastline and views. Many day cyclists out, and there was an event on too, as quite a few had matching
jerseys and racing numbers.
16 June,
Monday.
Sunny and
warm day, less wind. Not too sure of our plans for the day, did another load of
washing and put over a drying rack in the sun (inside) with the hope it will dry for the
day.
Decided to
park the bikes for the day and get a bus pass instead and head for town of
Cowes… it would be a 50km return bike ride so even without luggage given the obvious
hills an easy decision.
There is a bus stop just outside the door, caught a 9:30am bus and purchased a 24-hour,
unlimited travel pass from the friendly and helpful driver. The bus wound its
way through Ventnor and Wroxall, both of which we biked through little parts of
yesterday. Then through the very cute village of Godshill and into Newport
where we change buses and onward to West Cowes. A great way to sight see with a
vantage point of the front seats on top deck of a double decker bus… no puffing
either!!
A 1.25hr
bus journey, easy, past a donkey sanctuary on the way. West Cowes
is a pretty town, quite touristy but not overly busy at that time of the
morning. A few school groups around, both primary and secondary, doing some
tidal measuring and beach composition studies obviously.
We walked
past the Royal Yacht Squadron club, which according to Google is “the most
prestigious and exclusive yacht club in the UK”. Walked down the main shopping
street, lots of gift shops selling sea and yachting stuff, clothing and tat.
There is a Cowes Regatta week which first started in 1826 and happens every
August, very famous in yachting circles apparently.
Having
prowled the main street we got the floating bridge ferry, another chain ferry,
for the 2-minute trip to East Cowes. There was not much happening in East Cowes
although we stopped at the Waitrose supermarket that was handy.
Walked up
residential streets to the entrance of Osborne House, Queen Victoria's residence, built 1845. There are several busloads of tourists plus several school groups milling
around. We didn’t go in as a high entrance fee and we couldn’t see too much from the
outside, although it must be impressive. Victoria had a bathing ‘machine’ that was wheeled down to the sea where she could bathe without being visible to the public (great unwashed!), which is on display. There is several grand houses in the
surrounding area too.
Caught a
bus outside the gate which took us back to Newport, then changed buses before
getting off in the village of Godshill. A very cute village with lots of
thatched roof cottages and buildings. We had a late lunch at a café and since
it was almost their closing time, and they are closed tomorrow, they were
selling their cakes at a large discount… so could we resist?, no!!! A bargain
never missed, bonus, yum!
We walked
up through the village passing several thatched cottages to the church located
on the hill, circa 1350 AD. Back onto a bus and dropped off in Shanklin almost at
our door. After a cuppa and recovery we went exploring. Down to the Shanklin
esplanade following a walking path through the gardens, then 5km along the
beach front promenade to the town of Sandown. We had expected to have to climb
up to the cliff path so a pleasant flat walk was a bonus.
Caught a
bus back to Shanklin and got off in town, thinking we would cut across the park
opposite our house but as we got closer we could see flashing lights outside our
abode, a fire engine had passed our bus just before it got to Shanklin. As we
got closer there were 2-3 firetrucks and several police cars and ambulances. A
cordon tape, including isolating our place and surrounding houses, was being
put up and it all looked a bit serious. So we walked the other direction into the
village to find some dinner at a pub, at the same time hearing helicopters
hovering over the area?
1.5 hours
later we went back to ask and be escorted through the cordon and nearly to our
door by a policewoman. News reports later in the evening confirmed it was a bus
vs car collision with one fatality, the car driver, and likely a medical event causing the
collision but the huge response was because a bus was involved.
When we
were on the bus through Newport earlier this arvo, we noticed a large area
being set up for some sort of event, it is the Isle of Wight Festival in a
couple of days’ time. It must be a huge event, names we recognise in the
advertising include Sting, Justin Timberlake, The Corrs, The Script, Alison
Moyet, Texas and many more. We can only imagine the traffic chaos this will
cause with 55000 festival goers expected. Lucky with our timing as we had no
idea, could easily have stumbled onto the island and not been able to find
accommodation or much else!
17 June,
Tuesday. 37km, 25C (33C max)
Departed
Shanklin 9:45am after packing and wound around the edges of Shanklin to drop
down onto the esplanade path that we had walked last night, weaving
amongst the walkers to get to Sandown.
From there
it was road riding, quite busy with traffic, to get to our first stop of Bembridge
Windmill. A National Trust site of a historic mill established for grain
grinding to produce flour, bran and cattle feed. Built in the early 1700’s it
had a lovely view over an airfield and back towards Sandown. An interesting
look through the mill, with lots of explanatory panels and friendly staff.
Then
skirted around the town of St Helens to follow the road to Nettlestone, before
dropping down to Seaview, a lovely looking town. From there followed the beach side path
and road right into Ryde. The tide was way out on the long Appley and Ryde beaches, although still a few people at their beach huts and on beach seating. Rode past
the Puckpool Battery which was built in 1863 as a defensive structure against
the perceived French invasion. The battery was armed during WW1 and then used
in WW2 as a training site for the fleet air arm.
As we
arrived at 1:15pm and our ferry wasn't due to go until 5pm, we rode out on Ryde pier
and asked if we could go on an earlier ferry… yes, no problem just line up now.
It was a fast ferry with a 20-minute crossing to arrive in Portsmouth just after
2pm.
Spare time
available so we had a leisurely ride along the seaside bike paths to the area
of South Sea, a beautiful day for doing so. Lots and lots of people both on the
beach and strolling. 2 different people passing by stopped to talk about
our/their bikepacking experiences. Lunched on the foreshore walkway, after a stop at a Co-op supermarket then slowly biked back to the large ferry terminal.
Had a drink at a nearby pub to fill in a bit of time.
Had to line
up with cars, 1 pannier each was put through a scanner (like a random check) and then we were directed to go to front of queue… VIP treatment as we were directed from one
person to the next! Onto the vehicle deck first. Our bikes were a bit
awkward going into a front wheel bike rack due to their somewhat ungainly balance
with only 1 pannier… as we took one each thinking our room would be small.
We left 3 crew members securing them with bungies in all sorts of ways! Hopefully
our front wheel rims are still straight tomorrow!!!
We found
our room, middle of floor 8 but not all floors have rooms! We had dinner in their
restaurant which wasn’t too bad and then just sat in lounge that had a bit of a
view. Bedtime at 10pm as we have to be at breakfast by 5am and ready to disembark
shortly after.
An absolutely
stunning day made it easy to fill in our time. Got a bit sunburnt even! Caro
took a couple of Sealegs tablets and hopefully we both get some sleep if a
smooth crossing.
