French Pyrenees - Coast to Coast

11 July, Friday. 82km, 29C (41C max)

8am departure and cycled a coastal route most of the way north to Bayonne, which is the epicentre of the Basque red and white festivities… not too much happening at 9:30am but cars, tents and campers set up all along the riverbank (Adour River). Lots of side shows entertainment, but too early for them to be up and running. Took a bit of negotiating as much of the festival setup was along the path of the route so a bit of detouring in places. Huge number of people dressed up in red and white pouring into the centre of town, it must be heaving later on in the day.

Following bike track we wound through countryside and at times back beside the Ardour River which is a huge wide muddy looking waterway. Smooth path the whole way. Went up the hill into township of Urt to find a supermarket… our hunt for our morning Pain-au-Chocolates had been fruitless with any boulangerie we stopped at being sold out due to the crowds of people.

Along a path on top of a flood bank, still sealed, following a different channel of water the Bidouze River.

Getting rather hot now as we follow the route across farmland; maize, huge areas of it, some peas, beans and kiwifruit. The last 10km on rail trail, well-sealed, and with some tree shelter but extremely hot riding!

Staying in Hotel du Parc in the town of Sallies-de-Bearn. A very glamorous hotel in it’s day being built 1891, the town is an old thermal town with original baths dating from 1858. The hotel was occupied by the Germans during WW2, the town being on the border between occupied and free France. The hotel is now a casino, although not very big with it appears mainly pokie machines and some blackjack tables.

The town itself has origins dating to 1500BC, the salt of the thermal springs having been discovered way back then apparently. A population of 247 people in 1385 and the areas economic base being agriculture or salt. A wild boar is the emblem of the town, based on the legend that the origin of the town is due to a wild boar being killed by hunters so it lay on the marshes and salt preserved it.

A beautiful town filled with buildings from the 17^th through to the 20^th century.

A walk around, dinner at a Vietnamese restaurant which was very good. Returned back to our hotel room and relaxed listening to the music emanating from a neighbouring restaurant/concert. There is an arts festival on, but anyway a nice way to be lulled to sleep.

12 July, Saturday. 77km, 23C (31C max)

Departed before 8:30am and after a couple of kms found a supermarket, bananas, yoghurt and croissant for breakfast eaten in the supermarket carpark!

Following rail path we came to a tunnel with sensor lights that flickered as we approached and then stopped completely part way through… leaving us in the dark literally, phone torches out and pushed our bikes. Near the end of the tunnel the lights started working again, it was a long tunnel too!

Quiet roads passing maize, some kiwifruit and beans. A bit undulating but not too bad. 10:45am hunting for a boulangerie in Orthez to get our Pain-au-chocolates and sandwich. As we left again it started to rain enough for us to put on our jackets and leggings.

Stopped at a picnic table for an early lunch before onto track around a couple of lakes and then back onto farm roads… had to scoot under a couple of farm irrigators. Lots of maize, most of the farms appear to be one crop operations.

Up a rather steep hill to the town of Lagor where we had a breather stop, then dropped down through Mourenx which is a purpose-built town around gas plants. From there we were on various paths going uphill the whole time although it didn’t seem like it. Largely following the Ousse River and arriving at city of Pau.

As we arrived a wedding had just happened at the rather large church Eglise St Martin, lots of people milling about so a big “do”. Took a bit of negotiating along roadworks to get to our hotel arriving around 5pm.

Out for a walk and dinner. Pau has a grand promenade on the edge of the hill, overlooking the river below. Very grand buildings from the 1800’s and an old castle.

A bit of rain this evening.

13 July, Sunday. 52km, 26C (33C max)

Breakfast at a boulangerie this morning and then a walk around the inner city including viewing the outdoor Tour de France museum. Ironically the tour is just a few days away from being here… best we keep pedaling then.

Left hotel 10:30am, dropped down to the railway station, through some streets and onto the river track to continue following the Ousse upstream. Being on the river path means a lot of trees with glimpses of the river. The L’Ousse supports a lot of recreational activities; canoeing, kayaking etc. It is quite controlled with concrete barriers and drop structures to take the force out of any flooding. Also passed a hydro station.

The biking not too eventful, mostly following paths which are gradually going up or roads which are a bit steeper or up and down slightly. Passing through maize and bean growing area.

Quite a bit of day bikers and a few bike packers going both directions. Stopped and had a sandwich at Nay where there was some sort of bike event happening… so kept careful so we didn’t be caught up in it.

About 15km before Lourdes there is a cave system open to the public so appears to be quite a big recreational area. Passed a little campground with a shop… so stopped and had a welcome ice-cream!

Arrived at Lordes around 4pm… Oh my Lord (well, exactly!!!)… it is just a crazy spectacle that is impossible to describe. We just wish we had a GoPro to capture it! A stunning and amazing transformation dropping off our tiny, quiet sealed road and down past a large cathedral to suddenly be in the midst of hundreds and hundreds of people.

Its like Las Vegas… a mega town seemingly sprung up from nowhere, although Lourdes did exist before 1858 as cross-roads of several villages dating from the Neolithic and Bronze era of caves. Then approximately 1^st century roman walls and a castle. However, it was after 1858 that it was put on the map… after a local girl, Bernadette Saubirous apparently saw an apparition of the Virgin Mary. Bernadette was the only person that ever saw the “vision” but it drew a few locals into her report… they told others and now over 6 million (!!!!) people visit annually. They weren’t all there today but it some ways it seemed it to a couple of bikers trying to negotiate through town, if was very, very congested!

Busloads of people being discharged onto the street that is lined with stores selling holy figures, empty bottles of a range of sizes to put “holy water” in, calendars and dare we say tat to all and sundry. There was also scores of people in wheelchairs, sulky type chairs, being wheeled along by nurses and nuns. All hoping to drink the holy water and/or be blessed by being here.

It is just jaw dropping to see.

There is a candlelight procession each night, at 8pm in summer, that anyone can join... after spending some coin on a candle we guess… with a mass in the open area in front of the cathedral at the end point. Huge number of people and all highly choreographed. Certainly, a spectacle to see.

Once we have checked into our (large, as many are) hotel when you look past all the people, the large church and the hoopla, the town all looks a bit tired. Several hotels closed down, traffic jams in the centre of the town etc. so it all has a bit of a grunge look.

An added bonus for us it is Bastille Day tomorrow (France’s National Day) and there is a fireworks display from the castle on the hill. So. after grabbing some, average, dinner at one of the many restaurants and viewing the evening mass from above, we watch the fireworks, which are spectacular to see too.

A bit of thunder rolling around so quite dramatic this evening.

14 July, Monday. 30km, 21C (24 max)

A slower day today, some rain overnight… and happy Bastille Day.

A walk around the business part of town in the hunt for a Boulangerie, found one which had 6 or 7 hikers lined up ordering sandwiches and coffees which took ages. Finally took our order, bagged for us but then when they went to make coffee the machine broke… an awful lot of fluffing. Finally managed to pay for our goods, minus the coffee but then once outside realise we had an apple croissant and one Pain-au-Chocolate. Didn’t bother trying to rectify it after all the mucking around initially.

Packed up and left hotel by 10:30am stopping to get a supermarket sandwich on the way.

Some railway trail then quiet roads… up a reasonably steep hill then mostly downhill. Through farmland of maize, beans and a few cattle plus a handful of sheep.

Got to our next overnight at Tarbes by 2pm and sat in the park near our accommodation where we got a message from our host saying he would be there at 3:30pm. So, a bit of people, and peacock, watching… didn’t seem to be much else happening in Tarbes!

Accommodation is great, very big for a 1-bedroom flat and the bikes are locked in the entrance hall at bottom of stairs. We did a wash in the laundry in the apartment and hung on a rack inside hoping it will dry overnight.

Dinner over the road at a Vietnamese place, the lady a bit harried which resulted in Caro getting Pork with Onions along with Chicken Fried rice! rather than Ginger Pork, not sure how that happened but all good.

Checked out nearby Boulangerie but it is shut tonight and tomorrow so will have to sort out other options.

15 July, Tuesday. 62km, 17C (22C max)

A bit of rain this morning as we walked to supermarket for breakfast supplies.

Grabbed a train from Tarbes to Lannemezan at 9:48… a 20-minute train ride which was not busy at all and very cruisy to load bikes on/off. This saved us 55km and 900m of climbing which in the route guides isn’t that scenic or exciting.

Misty but not raining at Lannemezan, onto quiet roads down and up through rural areas where there seemed to be quite a few houses and maybe small farms. A few cattle and a couple of sheep with bells on, otherwise maize mainly.

Stopped at the village of St Bertrand-de-Comminges, a medieval village on a hill. Parked the bikes in the car park at the bottom and walked up. A cute walled town but not that much to see, only one restaurant open which was busy. The church which stands out from miles around was closed, wandered the couple of narrow streets. Worth a look.

Back down to the bikes and had a snack amongst the ruins of a Roman Colony dating from 20BC.

Continued on our way, winding through small villages. No matter how small each village has it’s own church, although some are now abandoned. The last 18km was flat to downhill following mainly rail trail and some river trail near the end.

Tonight we are in an AirBnB at St Gaudens, not too much to see. A big church, the overlook of the river is rather industrial with chimneys spewing smoke and piles of woodchips. The hosts are lovely, can’t speak a word of English so a lot of hand waving… but they even insisted on our bikes going in their garage after they took their car out for the night!

Noel collected a hornet in his helmet today… that was a very quick stop but still got an irritating sting. Applied anti-sting lotion and it seemed to help a lot.

16 July, Wednesday. 63km, 25C (44max)

9am departure from St Gaudens initially on bike lane beside busy road then onto quieter country roads. Up and down a bit through well kept villages, it must have been a wealthy area over time as quite a few impressive Chateau as we rode and up on the hills.

Stopped at a boulangerie in Saint-Martory and ate our spoils in a carpark opposite watching the local police checking out a couple of cars, entertainment and food!

Onto a rail trail with a great surface, slowly slowly climbing up hill. The heat was coming on but we kept going until we found a supermarket in Saint Lizier where we stocked up on dinner and breakfast supplies. As we are running early we stopped at the nearby McDonalds for smoothies… it took a while surprisingly, but it didn’t matter as we are running early anyway for our 4pm check-in.

Climbed up into the old village part of Saint-Lizier and found our accommodation in a complex that held the Bishops Palace dating from the 5^th century and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The Romans stopped here in 72BC after battles with the Spanish, and the ramparts visible date from the 3^rd century whilst the citadel was constructed 4^th century. The village is very picturesque with houses and alleyways from 15^th-16^th century.

A drink at the Bishops Palace restaurant overlooking the village and towards Saint-Gerons and beyond to the Pyrenees. The mountains visible today, still showing patches of snow. Dinner in our apartment, Chilli, and then a walk around the village which is just so lovely, very old but well preserved.

17 July, Thursday. 55km, 26C (39C max)

8:45 on our way, quickly into Saint-Gerons so found a boulangerie which provided Pain-au-Chocolate but not sandwiches. So retraced slightly to a supermarket to ensure we had some for lunch.

On quiet road for a period before onto a rail trail. 2 very long uphill climbs, and 2 long downhill. Farmland along the way; maize, unharvested wheat and some cattle which are being annoyed by lots of little flies… over their noses and all around, the poor cattle are constantly flicking their tails!

It was very, very hot by the time we got to Foix, found a spot to park the bikes right beside a bar/restaurant… so sat and had a couple of Coke’s for a recharge. We are in no hurry to get to our AirBnB as we can’t check-in until 4.30pm. Walked around the town, sticking to the shady side of streets! Up to the impressive castle overlooking the town and which dates from 987, it is a museum with paid entry with all signage looking like it is in French… so gave that a miss!

Caro found an optician so got her glasses fixed again, third time for trip, they are sticking on folding threatening to break as the screws seem to self-tighten.

Foix is a canoe slalom destination, last weekend NZ’er Nick Collier won an under 23 World Championship here! The roundabouts have stand up kayaks and some of the walls around town have canoe slalom banners up whilst the butchers shop, department store and pharmacy all have canoe window displays.

As we made our way from Foix towards Montgallard we stopped at a hardware store to get a gas canister for our cooker and also at the nextdoor supermarket. We are only 10 minutes from our accommodation… extremely hot, the bike GPS registers 44C whilst stopped at the shops.

Arrived to be met by a lovely host Helga who has given us lots of hints about what to do for our couple of days here. Based on her advice this evening we walked 30-40 minutes to the next village following the river so in trees and cool. A neighbourhood pizza “hut/food truck” with outside tables, a yummy pizza and a beer and walked home again.

There appears to be everything quite close, including a restaurant at nearby campground so we shouldn’t have to go back into Foix during our time here. Still quite hot at 10pm.

18 July, Friday. 27km, 24C (31C max)

Quite a busy day for our “day off”!

7:15am breakfast then ready to bike, without luggage, to the village of Roquefixade about 15km away in the hills. First stop the local boulangerie for sandwiches, and you guess it, Pain-au-cholates!

Uphill via rural roads passing farmland and small clusters of houses, rather than villages as such although the obligatory churches.

Roquefixade is a medieval village with not a whole lot there, a population of 150 although we only saw one! Certainly a few visitors walking around though. One house for sale we walked past was built 1635!

The main reason to visit is to climb up to the Castle of Roquefixade, the ruins of an 11^th century fortified castle first recorded in 1034. It had some alterations in the 15/16^th centuries before being destroyed under the orders of Louis XIII in 1632. It seems a pretty precarious spot to build a castle, but amazing views and looking off into the distance you can spot another “something” also perched on top of a hill.

Got back to our house around 2pm, did a quick shop for breakfast supplies then some admin/planning for next options going forward. Noel adjusted bike seats a little.

6pm and we decided it had cooled enough to walk up the hill that looms over the village. Our host outlined there is an easy and a hard way, so choose the easy way but then met a farmer with 4 dogs who was slowly herding some sheep, with bells, up that way. He, via had signals, asked us to go the other way… so the hard way it was then. Once we reached the summit, fantastic views, our host was seen in her yard vigorously waving a sheet for us to see!

Back down, showers and out for dinner at the campground… well that was the intention, but when we got there it was heaving with people and lots more arriving by car and on foot. We had earlier called and tried booking but as it is “paella night” they didn’t take bookings and just said turn up… and everybody else did too! It looked very congested and we chickened out as felt it may have been awkward trying to find a seat and order with our lack of French. So, we walked back to the same pizza place we were at last night, nice pizza again and thankful for the simplicity of it! Walked back, getting dark but home by 9:30pm.

19 July, Saturday. 71km, 19C (24C max)

Woke about 5am with thunder and lightening so quickly got up and put our bikes under the shade canopy to protect the leather seats.

Departed after breakfast around 8:45am, Helga was teary waving us goodbye, how nice! There is still some light rain as we headed off. Stop at the boulangerie for the usual, and then at supermarket to stock up on bananas and nuts. A long wait to be served, the supermarkets don’t seem to have self-checkouts and appear short-staffed.

Initially back via Foix and some of the same route we had followed coming in. Mostly quiet roads as we started heading towards Paniers. From there onto a trail, ex railway, heading towards Mirepoix, which is a medieval town. We are back on the bikepacking circuit seeing a few others going each way.

Mirepoix was initially established on the right bank of the River Hers in the 1200’s. However, it was mostly washed away from floods, so it was re-established on the left bank shortly after. The cathedral dates from the 1400’s.

Totally unknown to us but we are very lucky as this weekend is the Mirepoix historic Fete so lots of things happening. A market day (crafts, soaps etc.), sword dueling exhibitions, men’s choir, women’s traditional dancing, singing as well as lots of people dressing in period clothing. All great fun to see and experience. The town is also very pretty, surrounded by city walls. An ice cream in the square as we people watched.

Another 25km and we arrive in Chalabre for the night at our hotel accommodation. Accommodation is a bit tricky on this route and often have to adjust our distances to work in where we can find lodgings. Another medieval town but not quite as well cared for. Dinner at the hotel, on front verandah, Duck for us both; Noel has Duck Confit on potato, Caro Duck Pork Haricot Bean Causselet. A short walk around town.

20 July, Sunday. 48km, 26C (34C max)

Left hotel, stop at supermarket to buy a not very appetising sandwich for lunch supplies. On road and onto a slow climb up to a village and then turned to continue up to the Col des Tougnets Pass, 558m asl, then followed by a glorious 7-8km downhill.

Stopped at the town of Esperaza which had a market on the go, not sure if weekly or all the time. It was huge, stalls lining the streets: jewelry, fruit, candles, clothes and much more along with huge crowds of people. Interestingly a lot of tourists too, English and USA obvious and going by chatter a few live/stay in the area. Found Pain-au-chocolate and ate on a bridge edge by the river whilst listening to a barber shop quartet type of male choir.

The heat coming on as we do the next continual climb, through a thermal village, Rennes-les-Bains which has quite old buildings and hotels. Upward the road goes on tree covered rocky mountainous terrain, a bit like Montana or Oregon scenery.

Arrived at the campground at Bugarach 3pm but check-in not until 5pm. We went onto the camp area and started setting up the tent, the owners turned up from feeding some donkeys nearby and once they realised we couldn’t speak French, nor they much English, we think they were happy enough to let us do so!

Quite a cute setup with some cabins on one side and paddocks for tents. A small kitchen with kettle and fridge but no running water in kitchen or cooking facilities. One toilet/solar shower room. Caro first shower which was initially cold then started warming, followed by Noel who said it got so hot he had to turn it down!!

The campground has a restaurant, but only takes cash… after paying for our site we only have E38 for dinner which we calculate will be tight enough but doable without a beer.

Had a walk to the lake located just beside the campground, a dam of some sort, then wandered into the village in the hope there may be a cash machine but no.

There is a pizza/bar set up just on the side road leading to the campground, so we give that a go, and they take cards, so a beer is possible, and appreciated! Lovely pizzas consumed too. Home for a cuppa and relatively early night. There is around 20-25 people staying in campground in a mix of cabins, tents and vans.

21 July, Monday. 49km, 20C (28C max)

Thunderstorm overnight, first heard thunder 11:30ish so shot to loo before rain started and there was still a few people sitting out under the trees socialising.

It got very stormy during the night, thunder, lightning, heavy rain and including winds which was a bit of a concern given our tent pegs struggled going in the hard ground. Woke up at 6am as neighbours alarm went (cyclists also) so we got up reasonably shortly after. Packed up all our inside stuff, had breakfast and then packed tent also… it had stood the test of the storm very well.

Headed off 7:45am which was around the same time as the other bikers but they must have gone opposite direction as we didn’t see them again.

Immediately climbing up, up and up to cross the Col du Linas 667m asl and then the Col du Bancard 496m asl. Not individually huge climbs but collectively zig zagging up is tough enough. Followed by some glorious downhill riding so great fun and lovely. We met some event vans (flashing lights) and then some 4 runners, 3 women, who are carrying some sort of baton so guessing a relay.

Turning off at Cubières-sur-Cinoble we headed towards Gorges de Galamus. This road soon became a narrow road carved into a cliff face with a stone wall on the river side as protection from the steep drop into the gorge. Known as a “balcony road” it is very impressive and dramatic. From 11am to 6pm it is controlled by traffic lights as it really is very narrow with sharp turns; we are before 11am so no lights and pretty much no traffic. A few loose rocks lying on the road after last night’s storm.

It seemed deserted as we started riding through, then about after a km or so we met a family of 4 walking, not even sure where they came from! Then as we were nearing the end we saw people walking who are wearing orange helmets, as we pass them we realise they are river canyoners… there is a lot more of them getting organised at the car park located at the end of the gorge. It is a long way down to the river though!! Some dramatic cliff housing in one spot also which is nowadays presumably un-occupied.

A most amazing experience, likely up there as the most dramatic cycling we have done.

After dropping from there we stop at a boulangerie in Saint-Paul-de-Fenouillet for snack and coffee before some uphill riding again. The climate has changed as there is lots of grapes now, however the same grey rock mountains and the soil looks more like broken rock.

Up to Col del Tauc 388m asl being easy going as we have a tail wind. Had a break for snacks, sat watching some swallow’s carting food back and forwards for youngsters. Then some more upward climbing before a lovely long downhill run into the town of Maury.

From there onto rougher single land road winding its way amongst vineyards. Passed one chap spraying the rows of vines with a backpack, one way to fill in your day!

Arrived at Tautavel about 1pm, accommodation said arrive between 12-2 but it was actually a lockbox so easy. A shared kitchen loune amongst 4 bedrooms, but we are the only guests so have the place to ourselves. A bonus as we spread out our wet tent to dry etc. A relaxing long afternoon to organise our next few days. A washing machine and given how warm lounge is it is easy to dry everything. The bikes have also been manhandled up the stairwell into the lounge for security (which owner advised doing).

Dinner at a hamburger and beer joint just around the corner followed by a walk/hike up to the ruins of Chateau de Tautavel which is a stunning viewpoint. The ruins pretty precarious sitting on top of a huge bluff overlooking the town, not too many earthquakes here??!

Tautavel is the European Centre for prehistoric research. The Tautavel Man is an early homid and some of the oldest human remains found in Europe were discovered in Caune-de-l-Arajo, a cave in the district/commune. It now houses a replica cave and remnants, we think we were in the car park but didn’t go in.

An amazingly spectacular days riding, and the hill hike this evening is beautiful as well.

22 July, Tuesday. 82km, 30C (37C max)

Mostly packed by 8am before trip to supermarket for breakfast food and boulangerie for lunch food. Fed and away from accommodation by 9am. A long slow hill for a start but with a good gradient and then downhill into Cases-de-Pene to see our route had road closed sign… we happily carried on past like we usually do but in this case were turned back by a truck driver. To be fair the road was well dug up and big machinery operating. So, plan B, although we didn’t have one, as we followed GPS maps which indicated a track. It was very much a rough walking track but did get us up and over a hill and down to rejoin our road again but involved quite a bit of pushing as very sharp rocks so trying to lessen puncture risk.

Smooth going for a while then got to some more road closed signs so didn’t even try and see, we just redirected ourselves on other quiet roads to do a triangle back to our route leading to Perpigan. The roads getting busier but good roadside bike path.

The scenery has changed since we came over the last big hill yesterday. Much drier, crops of grapes and olives, droughty looking scrub rather than the lush oak, blackberry and sycamores.

Missed Perpigan by skirting around the outside on underpasses and cycle path. Passed a substantial area of Apricot trees that looked ready for picking, a small amount that was happening, very tempting to grab some but didn’t.

Then onto 12km of lovely surfaced, slightly downhill, riding beside the Agly River towards Barcares. Stopped for lunch on the banks, no picnic tables. As we rode a chap caught up and initially rode beside Caro for couple of kms, then caught up to Noel for another km… chatting away in French so we had no idea, he was happy enough though and then went ahead before turning off.

Reached Barcares and the Mediterranean Ocean!! The long stretch of beach had a single line of sun umbrellas but was not packed by any stretch of the imagination.

Rode past theme parks, an animal park and several water slide parks. Stopped at an information centre which is housed in a great big ship “Lydia”. Lydia was built in the 1930’s as a cruise ship then repurposed by being sunk into the sandy beach during the 1960’s to be used as as casino/nightclub. The idea was to symbolise the whole wider Bacares area and its development during that period.

Rode on from there following the path as it wound its way avoiding the various estuaries and parks. A lot of campgrounds obviously quite full, school holidays? and various towns fill of beachside apartments and some resorts.

Noel having difficulty with GPS where the path is close to a road resulted in a close call when we almost ended up biking into a naturalist resort! Realised we might be wrong when catching up on a bare bummed person walking in front of us!!! About turn!!

We finally ended up in the town of Port-la-Nouvelle and our accommodation for the next 3 nights. A big day, we are exhausted.

Our accommodation has a courtyard and indoor storage for our bikes can potentially sleep 10 so is designed as a family holiday spot. It is a bit rundown, 2 stovetop elements not working etc. It will do fine but there’s not the ‘pride’ that often goes with a rental… it must be someones holiday rental and they are creaming a few $$ on the side.

The town all seems to have been built in the 70/80’s, a bit sterile. Anyway, it will do for a break, it was going to be expensive elsewhere. Walked to supermarket for breakfast supplies and then a walk to waterfront restaurants/bars area. Burgers for dinner which was exactly what we needed as there was a big gap to fill!

The beach opposite the restaurant we are in has kids pay attractions, a giant baby bouncer and climbing frame etc. There is a huge expanse of golden sand, very flat so obviously don’t get storms. The sea feels quite cold which is disappointing as we have visions of warm Mediterranean Sea!

It will be nice to have a couple of days off to recharge, wash, re-organise, plan etc. Found out by message this evening when we contacted them, we have literally just missed catching up with our 2023 house sitters Yann and Dalia. If we had made contact a couple of days earlier we could have visited them, turns out they are just south of the area we rode through today but too far to ride back!

France - North to South

26 June, Thursday. 21C (31C max)

A good nights sleep, then out to find some breakfast… tricky! Not much or many people about at 9am, ended up at a café that we hoped had breakfast but ended up with a Pain-au-Chocolate and coffee, ah well, it could be worse!

A walk around back up on the city wall, lots of people starting to arrive and groups of school kids too. Back to hotel, packed up and left by the 11:30am check-out time and started along the coastal route to Mont-Saint-Michel.

Left St Malo behind quite quickly following along gently rolling farmland, lots of potatoes, wheat and maybe barley. Following quiet roads that are marked as a cycle route. Grabbed a supermarket lunch at Saint-Meloir-des-Ondes stopping by a wheat field to eat it.

Shortly after onto purpose-built cycle/walking track and dropped down to the coast. Lots of oyster sheds and a couple of oyster restaurants in one place. Lots of Aqua farming on the tidal flats and we saw a couple of huge, wheeled boat/truck things laden with either oysters or mussels (moules). Groups of school kids studying coastal environment and/or kite surfing.

A lot of walkers with big backpacks and quite a few cyclists with paniers, probably counted 16-18 so it means we are not such an oddity here! Started moving away from the coast on bike paths meandering through farmland: cereal crop, maize and corn, potato, broad bean, onions, leeks, cabbages or brassica, silver beet/spinach plantings, celery and different varieties of lettuce. Certainly, a market garden area.

As we moved away from the coast we were looking out at Mont-Saint-Michel in the distance, we had been there in 2019 and as lovely as it was, it was teeming with people so didn’t feel the need to return this trip.

Arrived in the city of Pontorson and our AirBnB lodgings by 4:30pm, a nice little stand-alone unit at the back of a property. Walked to supermarket for breakfast supplies and decided to cook in as well given there is a microwave and stovetop, so Chilli and a packet of rice, gourmet, Bon Appetit!!

A heavy rain shower late afternoon, with rain still lurking tonight, but a lovely first day in France.

27 June, Friday. 50km, 21C (24C max)

9:30am departure, there is no hurry and a shorter distance day today. Noel was up at 6:30am to get a VW report from Christchurch.

Followed quiet roads through rural areas, maize and cereals. Pontorson claims to be famous for it’s sheep, not entirely sure why but they had coloured plywood cut-outs of sheep on their roundabouts. A bit of research and the town is apparently famous for the Pré-Salé (salt-meadow) sheep and the local Avranchin breed, which graze on the coastal salt marshes for at least 230 days of the year. Anyway, we only saw maybe a handful of different pet sheep with sheds, and a small mob of 8-10.

Stopped for a breather at a village with some picnic tables, 2 other bikers went past so that makes 6 we have seen before 10:30am, a total change from our UK biking where there is much less.

Onto a rail trail which we then followed all day. Went off the trail at Saint-Brice-en-Cogles which was a busy town. Market day so a butcher, a baker and a candle (no, not quite, but close), fruit and vege, fish seller and a couple of ready-made meal sellers. We went to the boulangerie which had sandwiches, as well as some very lovely looking pastries and cakes! Ate on a bench on the street then on our way again.

Arrived at Fougeres just after 2pm as this afternoon’s riding was all flat, smooth rail trail riding. Went for a look at the Chateau de Fougeres, a wooden fort that was originally on the site in the 11^th century before being destroyed by fire. It was then rebuilt with stronger materials. The castle now belongs to the municipality and is one of Europe’s largest medieval fortresses. We walked around the perimeter, it has a running stream acting both as a a moat but also operating 3 waterwheels.

Left there then a push up a very steep hill to get a view of the chateau from the Jardin public gardens. A stunning setting. Back to our booked hotel accommodation, bit of hand signals as staff had little English and our French is woefully inadequate, but we got there including bikes into garage storage.

A bit of admin over a cuppa, then out to find dinner, a bit tricky with the language differences although Google Translate camera on menus helps a little. Being Friday night drinks appeared to be a priority for most people and places but we found a kebab baguette/chips place which did the trick.

In total we saw about 17-18 bikepacking people today so we have really now become mainstream!! People biking and walking on the trails all say “Bonjour”, the car drivers on the roads are very cautious and it doesn’t pay to stop pondering at an intersection or pedestrian crossing as cars will just stop! The pedestrians seem a little less patient of bikers though.

28 June, Saturday. 55km, 24C (33C max)

First task of the day is finding some breakfast, found a boulangerie/patisserie where we are pretty sure the young girl on the counter understood some English. We muddled through with our order and then we were pretty sure she had under-charged us. Her mother (we think) then came through from the back and after some discussion she proceeded to give us a couple of little pastry things for free! Not sure what happened or how that worked but we are happy!

Departed Fougeres 9:30am and continued following the same rail trail as yesterday. It is quite busy on a Saturday morning with runners and bikers. One pair of bikepackers we had seen yesterday passed us so had obviously overnighted there as well.

Off the trail and onto gently rolling quiet roads, stopped at the village of Juvigne for a break. It had a prominent church and beautiful flowers everywhere… lots of flower pots on windows, on poles and in the church gardens, just gorgeous.

Supermarket lunch at Le Bourgnef-la-Foret, the heat was starting to come on! Still on rolling roads but a shock to have a short section of rough gravel cross-country.

3:30pm arrival in Laval and dropped down into the town and found our AirBnB, an old patisserie that has been renovated but retains its original exterior, very cute and plenty of room for the bikes inside. Very hot temp’s outside by now.

Laval has a population of 50,000, from the 11^th century when it became a city it was controlled by the “House of Lords”, a family of barons and then later counts. It was hugely influential in the towns progress in the Linen Industry. Also subject to the 100 years war which occurred in the region. There was also coal and kiln activity. The city is split by the Mayenne River, and is currently a base for dairy processing, electronics and chemical production.

A predominant feature is Laval Castle which is composed of two parts, the Old Castle built in the 11^th century and the New Castle which is a renaissance gallery from the 16^th century. It was transformed into a courthouse 19^th century and is currently undergoing complete restoration and strengthening.

We walked up the medieval streets to the last standing town gate and wall. The wall is fenced off and 2 Mouton d’Ouessant sheep (male) are installed therein to save weedeating the bank over summer. They are a black, scruffy looking horned sheep that are not at all interested in people… to Caro’s disappointment.

We had dinner in the old town, burger and beer, then wandered back to our bed for the night, still quite hot! A summer festival on the go so music in the city plaza tonight.

Today we saw cereal crops, some harvested and straw baled behind, also maize. Wondered if saw sugarcane but probably just less leafy maize! Canola, some harvested, hay cut, fodder beet, lucerne and red clover pasture mixes. Biked past at least 2 chicken farms, indoors, probably more cattle in 2 days than we saw in 4 weeks in the UK but still not large mobs. Only 1 or 2 sheep, who appeared agitated due to flys and heat about.

The French look after their gardens, with lots of colour, tidy houses and every now and again there is a Crucifix Jesus on a corner or outside a gateway… possibly blessing the farm?

A lovely days riding, but we get the impression it is about to get hotter!

29 June, Sunday. 52km, 28C (41C max)

8:45am away from accommodation, not many people around at this time of day. 2 boulangeries open but we ignored as we figured we already had enough to survive the day.

A few runners out, some bikers both day riders and longer. Following the Mayenne River all day on smooth gravel path. Every so often there is a lock with a lock keeper on duty. The lock being single width whilst the rest of the wide river flowed over control steps. Very pretty settings, seems to be at least one mill sometimes one each side of the channel. The Locks and Mills date from the 1780’s although the mills were probably established prior to that in some cases.

There are cafes at a few of the locks, all having road access to them as well, some with accommodation in the old mills.

We stopped at one café about 10:30am, for pain-au-chocolate and coffee. What a setting, French music playing in the background… just magic!

Arrived in town of Chateau-Gontier 1pm’ish and went looking for lunch. The big supermarket closed so went up to old town, a mini-market open but not much else so it was a pre-packaged sandwich under a tree by the river, it is very hot!

Continued onto Daon were we are camping tonight. It is hot, so we were lucky to have shade along the river trail for most of the day. Set up the tent on a big site largely amongst many campers and caravans. The camp has a kitchen/common room so could boil a jug and charge a phone. Unfortunately, it was locked in the evening and unlikely to be open until 9am tomorrow.

Walked to the town, not a lot there, and back to the riverside restaurant beside the campground. Ordered a plate which was chips, salad and 2 meats which one cooked on the provided sizzle plate… worked out fine and was nice.

9:30pm bed, still hot and sun still to set.

Today and tomorrow’s ride, on the Mayenne River, was voted the most scenic bike route in Europe in 2018. There is debate as to whether that is correct it is very nice with the river, mills, glimpses of chateau and stately homes… and of course more or less flat!

The summer heat means flies are an issue for livestock, or when eating dinner! Crops of wheat, some headed, maize, sunflower, and maybe reeds (rather than sugarcane). Turns out ‘ski’ is the same word in English or French with a couple of river sections reserved for Ski-ing. Saw 1 woke boarder, surprising there is not more boats out utilising the river in the summer heat. Maybe the river locks are too much admin for recreational users.

30 June, Monday. 45km, 29C (36C max)

Up at 7am after an OK sleep, went for a walk up to village to let the tent fly dry in the rising sun and to buy yoghurt to go with our cereal. Noel had a brainwave that perhaps the gate key may open the kitchen door, it does! So, breakfast, followed by a brief panic when we thought we had locked ourselves in! Packed up tent and away by 9:30am… the heat is coming on!

Path leading us past school groups and camps, one lot kayaking in the river, several on bikes including a priest (teacher) who was in his black gown and white collar and temp is 35C !!!

More mills and chateau, we did a small road detour as the track was closed, also inadvertently detoured via Montreuil-sur-Maine which turned out wasn’t necessary.

Arrived in Angers at 1:45pm and we could check in at 2pm so just sat in the shade for 15mins then let ourselves into our house. A one-bedroom apartment, very nice with the only odd thing being the shower cubicle in the corner of the bedroom. All good, and bikes able to be put inside apartment as well as a small washing machine with a drying rack in the yard. Clothes dry quickly.

Down/admin time until 7pm when we ventured out, still 30C+. Crossed the river and up behind the cathedral. Found a burger place, order yourself, as the other bar Noel had lined up wasn’t doing meals this evening.

Walked a few streets after, it seemed like a lovely city. Lots of the old town still there and the cathedral/chateau under renovation.

Back from our walk at about 9:30pm, it is still hot and lots of people just lounging on the riverbanks etc. Noe saw a deer crossing the track today. A few cyclists and walkers for the day.

1 July, Tuesday. 0km, 30C+

Nominated rest day, a lazy start.

Following breakfast we went to boulangerie around the corner with high expectations as it was voted to have the best brioche in the world by the New York Times in 2024. Ordered and it was bagged up, then lady advised they only took cash and we didn’t have any!!! She actually offered to hold it while we went and got cash, but we declined and said we will be back tomorrow.

Walked past a shop selling glasses/eyewear so popped in and the very helpful man tweaked Caro’s sunglasses, they are sticking on folding which isn’t helpful. Shouldn’t be happening for prescription ones that are worth a bit, but they are being subjected to a lot of outside elements. He wouldn’t charge anything, and used it as a training exercise for his apprentice.

Took a walk up around the back of the castle which has major road/footpath work going on over 2 sides of it.

A walk through town and via a small supermarket shop. Back to apartment by 12:30, it is hot! Spent the afternoon on admin and not doing much.

Ventured out for dinner to the same area we were in last night. Lots of people just having drinks, 7:30-8pm’ish, so makes it a bit hard to see/understand menus.

A walk a bit further in one direction led us to the town hall (Hotel de Ville) which all the time we have been in France we have thought was a hotel chain!! A large town square with rotunda, people dancing to a folk music type band, fun to watch.

Bit of tidy up/repack tonight with the idea we will get away early tomorrow. It’s going to be hot!

2 July, Wednesday. 65km, 24C (30C max)

7:45am departure and after obligatory stop at yesterday’s boulangerie for pain-au-chocolate to go we are on our way. Following the Mayenne River still, although the name changes to Maine River somewhere near Angers (same river, just different regional name). Sandy gravel tracks at this point, a few bike packers already out.

Shortly we turned to follow cycle trail on the Loire River coming onto it at Port Thibault, which looks like it has very big old houses behind tall fences. It is a wide river, split by an island at one stage so for a while just following the dry river channel.

Quite a fast ride for us, tarseal surface and flat. Crossed the river then followed again. Gennes was our lunch stop, just a supermarket sandwich stopping under trees as we got back to the river. Gennes had a huge church, all open space and columns, Notre Domede Cunaurt Cunault.

As we continued following the Loire River we were in limestone country with caves in peoples back yards being used as sheds etc. Also houses constructed of limestone. The last 10km riding seemed a bit pointless as we zig-zagged to stay off the main road but eventually we dropped down into city of Saumur with its impressive Chateau on the hill. A brief threat of rain but it didn’t come to anything.

2:15pm arrival and we were able to check-in early so a bonus. A nice newly renovated old building, another quirky layout with quite small bedroom too small for our bags. Bedroom sort of just rolled into bathroom but it all works.

A walk around the city chateau this evening, built in the 11^th century with extensive alterations in the 15^th century to make it look like a palace. Napoleon 1 saved it from demolition making it into a state prison. It is now owned by the Saumur council since 1906. Very impressive and looking quite flash compared to some.

Dinner of galettes and a sparkling wine for Caro as the area is known for it apparently.

The farmland during the ride today seemed more uniform in some way. Lots of cereals, some harvested, maize, sunflowers just starting to flower, hemp, vineyards and market gardens.

3 July, Thursday. 63km, 25C (33C max)

8:30am and continued following the Thouet River for a while, not much of a river, as we left the Loire behind. Out through farmland once again of cereal, sunflowers and vineyards.

Stop at Montreuil-Bellay which was up off the route, found a boulangerie for cinnamon scrolls, yum! The town had a chateau, church and old town walls/gates before dropping down a very steep hill and out into the country again. Rural riding, harvesting of grain on the go. The Thouet River is growing as we followed it to the town of Thouars.

A road closure meant we ended up pushing our bikes up a very steep road past the ruins of and old Gothic chateau. Made it to the main part of town and the centre was all being dug up. Rather strange as we thought we were going to a medieval town. However, after buying a supermarket sandwich and getting back onto cycle trail we did find the old part of town which had a few restaurants etc. Lunched sitting on a wall in front of the Castle of the Dukes of La Tremille. Built 1635-38 and is now used as a school.

Down the hill and a stop at a supermarket to get something for dinner as there is no options near where we are staying this evening. Another 10km to go and we get to the village of Taize and our AirBnB accommodation for the night in a little gate house located in a complex that was a horse butchers’ yard back in the day. A jovial English couple are our hosts and are busy renovating the large house which is part of the complex.

The area is known for its melons, and maybe we saw some when riding… looked like pumpkins. Also, sunflowers, cereal but not much stock, some irrigation. We did pass a couple of farms with large areas of maize covered with net, most likely for free-range hens? Although wondered if one we passed had pheasants? One also had metal boxes set up from ground, hens maybe but they would be very hot hens today!

4 July, Friday. 56km, 28C (39C max)

A slightly later start as after our breakfast was delivered by hosts after 8am. Then as we were about to leave we were invited to have a look around their renovations, a huge amount of work done in 3 years and a massive amount still to go. In one area upstairs above a false ceiling they found a stock of hand grenades, with pins still in them, from both WW1 and WW2 plus other ammunitions. They have been unable to find out the history, and the locals won’t say. Bullet holes visible in one outside wall and one section of the building was built/rebuilt late 1940’s. That section obviously destroyed… but why?

When they purchased the property, it had been empty for 30 years, and before that an elderly lady lived by herself. So it needed a huge amount of work just to make it waterproof. A most interesting tour, just like the TV reno programs!

So, delayed departure about 9:30am to ride through large areas of cereal, quite a lot harvested and there is harvesters zooming along some roads moving from farm to farm. Seem to be out of the vineyard areas, but there are still Sunflowers.

Into an area that had been Roman occupied with bridges, burial chambers and roadways still visible that are attributed to them.

A bit of undulating riding arriving to the town of Airvault on the River Thouet where we stopped at the boulangerie for supplies. A medieval town with a chateau, subterranean Fountain, a columned Pavilion (no sides) and St Pierre church built 975AD and rebuilt 11/12^th centuries.

The biking couple we saw a couple of times yesterday arrived after us, spoke to them but not sure if they speak English or not.

Onward over some hills, and some heat, over a Roman Bridge crossing the Thouet River. Stopped at a village for a much-needed soft drink. A brief stop at a church in a village, already mid-way up a hill, then continued on a long grind before some sharp ups and downs and finally into the town of Parthenay. Found our hotel which is located on the longest surviving medieval street in Europe, arriving around 4pm and pleased to be here.

The medieval street is cobbled, with stone drainage lines, tricky to ride but extremely cute and picturesque.

We have a beautiful room in a renovated building, top floor so quite hot.

A walk to grocery shop for breakfast supplies and dropped them back before exploring. Talked to an English chap that now lives here in a building dating from the 1500’s which he renovated.

We had a drink at a bar on the street but decided their menu was more like appetizers so didn’t eat there. Found another place and with the help of Google Translate we both got lovely meals. Walked back to our hotel the long way via the citadel (city walls), a convent and medieval streets… an amazing place, not super touristy and not many locals speak much or any English. Quite refreshing to be in such a lovely spot that is not yet on the main tourist trails.

Parthenay is surrounded on 2 sides by the River Thouet, an ancient, fortified town. Some of the citadel is closed off as unsafe, and some is under repair as there is marques set up in places. The town first recorded in the 11^th century; the castle was built in the 13th century with walls to protect it. The town only expanded outside the town walls in the 19^th century. The churches date from 11^th and 13^th centuries.

5 July, Saturday. 73km, 29C (38C max)

After breakfast in our room we were packed and ready to go by 8:30am but couldn’t find anyone to unlock the garage for our bikes! Waited around for 20mins or so before someone came after Noel’s repeated attempts at messaging/phoning.

Friendly runners out on a Saturday morning in Pathernay. The route terrain mostly rolling roads, up and down, up and down. Stopped at a boulangerie for our pain-au-chocolates (now firmly established as our morning sustenance) about 20km into our ride, Mazières-en-Gâtine. This was about the highest point of our days riding but although we started dropping altitude there was still some sharp climbs.

Through farmland of cereal, maize and sunflowers, some irrigation.

Arrived in city of Niort about 2:30pm and picked up a supermarket sandwich, quite a busy town. By that stage of the day we passed the couple of bikers we have been leapfrogging for the last 2 days, plus another who we also saw yesterday but had spotted back on the Laval trail and campground a few days ago.

Went and found a bike shop in Niort as Caro has a broken spoke. Chap unable to fix it as on his own in shop but he cable tied it and assured us in broken English we would be fine until we could get it repaired.

Leaving the beautiful city of Niort we followed the river La Sevre Niortaise which is a very slow moving, very green algae full river… however it is actually clean looking water and lots of fish and lots of fishermen. There are notices advising against swimming but there is a few kayakers.

A flat track meandering with the river largely in the shade which was very much appreciated. Arrived in town of Coulon at 4:45pm and into our AirBnB apartment attached to the host’s house. No language in common but very friendly and helpful hostess. We had initially planned to tent in the area, but forecast is for rain overnight so made this last minute booking i.e. wimped out!

Went for a walk this evening, quite a few restaurants for what is a quiet little town, but the area is known as “Venice of the South” and lots of hire boats etc moored so obviously a popular tourist/day visitor spot. Followed the music that had been heard since we arrived and discovered there has been an A&P type show on, and will be going tomorrow. Wound down this evening but still a large display of vintage tractors, small animal ring and tents set up as we wandered through.

Ate in the apartment, Pork and Chickpeas from a can, not gourmet but filled a gap!

Mazières-en-Gâtine

6 July, Sunday. 76km, 17C (25C max)

Only a little rain overnight, left by 8:30am after hastily booking an AirBnB for tonight. The BookaBach one we queried last night did not reply in time and we are unable to book on that platform the same day as stay unfortunately. Here’s hoping the one we have booked will have bike storage, sounds slightly unsure.

Hadn’t been biking for long when the rain came, so jackets and leggings on as we are meant to be getting a bit according to forecast. Meandering along gravel bike tracks as we follow around the numerous channels (drainage), flat riding. There are cattle grazing in places, but it is possibly too wet for machinery-based agriculture.

Stopped at a little village for pain-au-chocolate, it had a scarecrow theme going on with lots of scarecrow variations. We continue on, still on bike paths between or beside sizable canals and then onto roadway beside a major canal. Lots of fishing folk and lots of small houses on the opposite bank. As the channel/canal got larger there were boats out with people fishing off them.

The wind became quite strong, almost side on, tough going but a good road/track surface so helped.

Arrived in Marans, a bigger town, thinking about lunch but the supermarket closed at 1pm and appeared to be no convenience stores open either, so we kept on pedalling. The wind dying down a little thankfully and some blue sky appearing.

Turned towards the coast at Marans and followed canal path, very smooth and sheltered all the way to city of La Rochelle arriving 3:15pm. Found our way to our apartment and met the host to get the key 3:45pm. Sun shining after a brief rain shower. Bikes fitted in the bike storage room which is part of the apartment complex luckily. Apartment is on 1^st floor and is lovely, includes a washing machine which was on our requirements when filtering results.

Walked into the main part of the city for dinner at a burger place, very nice meal and perfect as we hadn’t had a proper lunch today so were getting hungry enough! A quick walk around but it is quite cold and we aren’t really dressed for it… tomorrow for exploring.

7 July, Monday. 10km, 21C

Another break day so quite lazy, sort of. 7am rising after a good, but cramp prone, sleep. Walked to nearby small supermarket to get breakfast supplies of yoghurt, fruit, cereal.

Slow breakfast and worked out how to use the Nespresso machine.

Did take our bikes out and biked through the old port on outskirts of city, and then to a bike repair shop Noel had researched… yes, very helpful chap repaired the broken spoke then and there E30, which we appreciated hugely. Returned to apartment via stop at boulangerie for our pain-au-chocolate fix and a sandwich for lunch. A bit of trip research, a bit sleepy too.

After lunch we biked to train station to sort out tomorrow’s manoeuvres and they advised it was booked up Tuesday and Wednesday except for 5:30am departure… so that may have to be the one, and we have to book it online. Came back to apartment and got on computer, worked out with 2 different bookings we can get to Biarritz and not leave so early so that’s what we booked and should be there early arvo after a change at Bordeux. Booked a Biarritz hotel for 3 nights after confirming by email they have bike storage whilst we stay but not if we leave them. So our plans for San Sebastion, Spain, might turn into a day trip instead of a couple of nights.

A beer for pre-dinner drinks courtesy of our AirBnB host and then out for a walk and dinner. Warmer than last night but still need a jersey, wandered around parts of the old town and found somewhere for dinner which was OK but not great.

Packed up this evening, we will be leaving by 7am. We are leaving before a big movie festival hits La Rochelle in a few days, they are setting up arena etc in centre of town. Probably a good thing we missed it as up to 150,000 people are expected and we think it is a busy enough place already!

8 July, Tuesday.

Today turned out to be a really stressful day, and it is our own fault really.

Up 6am and onto 7:30am train to Bordeaux… tick, easy! … except, the train was delayed and arrived in Bordeaux 20 minutes late, leaving us with 25 minutes to change trains instead of 45 minutes. Doesn’t sound too bad but not when you have to manhandle bikes and luggage off train, into a lift one at a time, underground passages to other platforms etc. Phone alert said to go to platform B, but unknown to us that was incorrect. Once in the below level corridors we couldn’t find the lift up, Noel tried putting his bike in panic on an escalator… that almost ended badly.

Eventually found the lift, queue!! Got up to right level, found Platform B but no train... a train about to leave Platform A so asked station attendant and he said, wee wee get on quickly. However, once moving we worked out we might be wrong and train attendant confirmed but told us to get off at next station and await a correct train.

So, off at Bijanos Facture, and there’s not much there. But, sure enough, the train we are meant to be on stops 10minutes later… but… the guard told us not to try getting on as “no bike space” and await next train, 2.5 hours away!!! Noel asked at ticket office if we should just go back to Bordeaux but they assured us better to wait.

Caro went for walk around station surroundings but there is not much there, managed to buy a couple of muffins. Eventually the train arrives, pretty much straight after another to a different destination so a bit of confusion. Worked out which one and by that stage there is 4 bikers trying to get on. Noel forced his way on and got my bike and bags on as well with the help of a USA lady that was sitting on floor by door…. But then worked out it wasn’t a bike carriage; the train is packed/overfull with tourists and locals. The guard came through and is not impressed we are there with bikes jammed in… but at the next station he holds the train (after Caro stressfully says we can’t get on that one either) as we change carriages… boy it’s stressful and hard work. There is actually specialist bike staff on board and the guard growls at them to make room for us, God knows how they do it.

We get off at Biarittz, with at least 8 other bikers. The bikes all stacked on top of each other by the official train/velo man who was covered in sweat and as stressed as we were! 10 minute ride up into town and to our hotel, bikes into storage and us into a lovely 4^th floor room… even got a glimpse of sea view from the sunlounder deck of our room. A big sigh of relief at getting here, boy, what a day.

After some well needed recovery time we head out for a walk. Initially down to overlook a surf beach area then along to a petite beach, lovely, but the whole place is very busy.

Dinner at a pizza restaurant, we are pretty hungry and we then walk back down the main eating street to the petite beach. There are 2 lots of men’s groups singing/busking spots in the restaurant area. Then back to the hotel.

So, we made it to Biarritz. A stressful day but we learnt a valuable lesson, make a longer gap for a train change over particularly if it is a big station. The bikes make the whole exercise a lot slower particularly due to having to use lifts to change platforms. We were very lucky the train guard on the second train felt sorry for us, the first train couldn’t care less! Not sure what our plan B or C was but it would have been messy and we likely would have ended up in Bordeaux trying to find expensive accommodation and hoping for train availability. One positive is that the French trains allow you to use any train on day of your booking, however practically that likely adds to their issues. A messy booking system where you have to book your bikes on a different website before booking yourself! And most locals ignore the bike booking requirement!

9 July, Wednesday. 32km, 30C (36C max)

A biking day with no luggage, luxury!

Lazy start, walked to a supermarket for breakfast supplies then sat on our deck eating our of our camp bowls… don’t think they will have many guests doing that!

Biked the coastal bike paths as far as St Barbe’s chapel which looks down onto Saint-Jean-de-Luz, which is a very touristy place with a long sandy beach lined with apartments and hotels.

A really nice ride for the day, quite up and down but stunning coastline scenery of beaches etc. Stopped at Bidart village area for morning tea/lunch, a highest point of the trip, sandwich and pain-au-chocolate. Several campgrounds as we rode, several beaches. The large surfing beach near our hotel was full of surf school groups… a very calm tide.

There are some German WW2 bunkers, gun emplacements etc. Retraced our route back including stopping at the same boulangerie, we utilised on the way south, for drinks and cake!!

Back at hotel 4pm and after a shower, rest and recovery we went for a walk. Headed to the long beach which is to the north of where we are staying… still very busy at 6pm but we walked along the water’s edge, finally getting our feet in the Atlantic Ocean, temperature tolerable.

Back up the hill for dinner in a burger place that was very popular with the locals, always a good sign. Walked home via the surf beach again, lots of surf schools out again as the tide is heading out and waves calming. A quiet night for us, unlike for a lot of people as there is lots of partying noise drifting around. We have noticed a lot of people, mostly young/teenagers are wearing all white outfits with a touch of red (scarf, belt, armband, maybe socks) and we work out its to celebrate Fetes de Bayonne… a giant party or excuse to party… for 5 days and 5 nights. There are official activities, as well as obviously parties everywhere!

Fireworks booming away at about 5:30pm, large bangs but of course it was daylight so couldn’t see any spectacle. The official description is 5 days and 5 nights out of time when the young mingle with the old, the rich with the modest. The common thread is conviviality and the pleasure of being together (and probably a whole lot of alcohol!!).

10 July, Thursday. 0km, hot

We went to Spain this morning, as you do!

Up at 6am and walk down to the train station to catch a 7:23am train to Hendaye. Hop off the train, walk 20metres from one building to another, some assistance from a friendly assistant and we are onto a metro train to San Sebastian. By 8:45am we are there! A chap sitting opposite us helped us get off at the right station, very friendly!

Chilly for a start as we walked the straight road from the station to the beach, a few people were walking the water’s edge, a few swimming and some starting to claim their ‘space’ for the day.

Retraced our steps to find a bakery/restaurant and had a ham and cheese croissant and potato fritta for breakfast… not quite full Spanish nor as substantial as the Huevos Rancheros we were thinking we may find. Our young waitress had spent 7 ears working in Auckland!

Fortified we set off and walked up Monte Urgull which is at one end of La Concha Bay and overlooks the old city. The Monte has been home to military fortresses since the 12^th century, there are remnants of the newer century fortifications and the 16^th century Monta Castle which has a 12m high sculpture of Jesus Christ added in 1950. The late 1800’s saw the monte lose its military importance and after being sold to the city council in 1924 it became a viewing platform for tourists. The area is host to a few different school groups today.

We then walked down the northern side to view Ondarreta Beach and then just wandered. Stopped at Sipuzkoa Plaza and sat for a while… the heat is coming on, watching walking tours passing there and also a chap who was “harvesting” the coins people are tossing into the water as they cross a little bridge.

We zig-zagged through the old town which by now is super busy. Stopping to view a couple of churches. The town was burnt to the ground 31 August 1813 after a siege by Napoleonic Forces which explains why the streets are so uniformly in a grid pattern, grand buildings and apartments.

The local food speciality if pintxos which are tapa like plates, there are bars serving them and you choose what you want from a cabinet. However, it was a bit busy and scary for us so we ended up eating at a sit in bakery.

We checked out the final church cathedral and then walked back to the train station as we can’t shop (no luggage space) and its too hot and crowded to think of sitting on the beach.

Back in French territory by 4:30pm and back at the hotel 5:30pm.

Mexican for dinner which was an excellent choice. We are back on the Velo’s tomorrow and our beach holiday is at an end, for now at least.