26 June, Thursday. 21C (31C max)
A good
nights sleep, then out to find some breakfast… tricky! Not much or many people
about at 9am, ended up at a café that we hoped had breakfast but ended up with
a Pain-au-Chocolate and coffee, ah well, it could be worse!
A walk
around back up on the city wall, lots of people starting to arrive and groups
of school kids too. Back to hotel, packed up and left by the 11:30am check-out
time and started along the coastal route to Mont-Saint-Michel.
Left St Malo
behind quite quickly following along gently rolling farmland, lots of potatoes,
wheat and maybe barley. Following quiet roads that are marked as a cycle route.
Grabbed a supermarket lunch at Saint-Meloir-des-Ondes stopping by a wheat field
to eat it.
Shortly
after onto purpose-built cycle/walking track and dropped down to the coast.
Lots of oyster sheds and a couple of oyster restaurants in one place. Lots of
Aqua farming on the tidal flats and we saw a couple of huge, wheeled boat/truck
things laden with either oysters or mussels (moules). Groups of school kids
studying coastal environment and/or kite surfing.
A lot of
walkers with big backpacks and quite a few cyclists with paniers, probably
counted 16-18 so it means we are not such an oddity here! Started moving away
from the coast on bike paths meandering through farmland: cereal crop, maize
and corn, potato, broad bean, onions, leeks, cabbages or brassica, silver
beet/spinach plantings, celery and different varieties of lettuce. Certainly, a
market garden area.
As we moved
away from the coast we were looking out at Mont-Saint-Michel in the distance, we
had been there in 2019 and as lovely as it was, it was teeming with people so
didn’t feel the need to return this trip.
Arrived in
the city of Pontorson and our AirBnB lodgings by 4:30pm, a nice little stand-alone
unit at the back of a property. Walked to supermarket for breakfast supplies
and decided to cook in as well given there is a microwave and stovetop, so
Chilli and a packet of rice, gourmet, Bon Appetit!!
A heavy
rain shower late afternoon, with rain still lurking tonight, but a lovely first
day in France.
27 June,
Friday. 50km, 21C (24C max)
9:30am
departure, there is no hurry and a shorter distance day today. Noel was up at
6:30am to get a VW report from Christchurch.
Followed
quiet roads through rural areas, maize and cereals. Pontorson claims to be
famous for it’s sheep, not entirely sure why but they had coloured plywood
cut-outs of sheep on their roundabouts. A bit of research and the town
is apparently famous for the Pré-Salé (salt-meadow) sheep and the local Avranchin
breed, which graze on the coastal salt marshes for at least 230 days of the
year. Anyway, we only saw maybe a handful of different pet sheep with sheds,
and a small mob of 8-10.
Stopped for a breather at a village with some picnic tables,
2 other bikers went past so that makes 6 we have seen before 10:30am, a total
change from our UK biking where there is much less.
Onto a rail trail which we then followed all day. Went off
the trail at Saint-Brice-en-Cogles which was a busy town. Market day so a
butcher, a baker and a candle (no, not quite, but close), fruit and vege, fish
seller and a couple of ready-made meal sellers. We went to the boulangerie
which had sandwiches, as well as some very lovely looking pastries and cakes!
Ate on a bench on the street then on our way again.
Arrived at Fougeres just after 2pm as this afternoon’s
riding was all flat, smooth rail trail riding. Went for a look at the Chateau
de Fougeres, a wooden fort that was originally on the site in the 11th
century before being destroyed by fire. It was then rebuilt with stronger
materials. The castle now belongs to the municipality and is one of Europe’s
largest medieval fortresses. We walked around the perimeter, it has a running stream
acting both as a a moat but also operating 3 waterwheels.
Left there then a push up a very steep hill to get a view of
the chateau from the Jardin public gardens. A stunning setting. Back to our
booked hotel accommodation, bit of hand signals as staff had little English and
our French is woefully inadequate, but we got there including bikes into garage
storage.
A bit of admin over a cuppa, then out to find dinner, a bit
tricky with the language differences although Google Translate camera on menus
helps a little. Being Friday night drinks appeared to be a priority for most
people and places but we found a kebab baguette/chips place which did the
trick.
In total we saw about 17-18 bikepacking people today so we
have really now become mainstream!! People biking and walking on the trails all
say “Bonjour”, the car drivers on the roads are very cautious and it doesn’t
pay to stop pondering at an intersection or pedestrian crossing as cars will just
stop! The pedestrians seem a little less patient of bikers though.
28 June, Saturday. 55km, 24C (33C max)
First task of the day is finding some breakfast, found a
boulangerie/patisserie where we are pretty sure the young girl on the counter
understood some English. We muddled through with our order and then we were pretty
sure she had under-charged us. Her mother (we think) then came through from the
back and after some discussion she proceeded to give us a couple of little
pastry things for free! Not sure what happened or how that worked but we are
happy!
Departed Fougeres 9:30am and continued following the same
rail trail as yesterday. It is quite busy on a Saturday morning with runners
and bikers. One pair of bikepackers we had seen yesterday passed us so had obviously
overnighted there as well.
Off the trail and onto gently rolling quiet roads, stopped at
the village of Juvigne for a break. It had a prominent church and beautiful
flowers everywhere… lots of flower pots on windows, on poles and in the church
gardens, just gorgeous.
Supermarket lunch at Le Bourgnef-la-Foret, the heat was
starting to come on! Still on rolling roads but a shock to have a short section
of rough gravel cross-country.
3:30pm arrival in Laval and dropped down into the town and
found our AirBnB, an old patisserie that has been renovated but retains its
original exterior, very cute and plenty of room for the bikes inside. Very hot
temp’s outside by now.
Laval has a population of 50,000, from the 11th century
when it became a city it was controlled by the “House of Lords”, a family of
barons and then later counts. It was hugely influential in the towns progress
in the Linen Industry. Also subject to the 100 years war which occurred in the
region. There was also coal and kiln activity. The city is split by the Mayenne
River, and is currently a base for dairy processing, electronics and chemical
production.
A predominant feature is Laval Castle which is composed of
two parts, the Old Castle built in the 11th century and the New Castle
which is a renaissance gallery from the 16th century. It was
transformed into a courthouse 19th century and is currently
undergoing complete restoration and strengthening.
We walked up the medieval streets to the last standing town
gate and wall. The wall is fenced off and 2 Mouton d’Ouessant sheep (male) are
installed therein to save weedeating the bank over summer. They are a black,
scruffy looking horned sheep that are not at all interested in people… to Caro’s
disappointment.
We had dinner in the old town, burger and beer, then wandered
back to our bed for the night, still quite hot! A summer festival on the go so
music in the city plaza tonight.
Today we saw cereal crops, some harvested and straw baled
behind, also maize. Wondered if saw sugarcane but probably just less leafy
maize! Canola, some harvested, hay cut, fodder beet, lucerne and red clover
pasture mixes. Biked past at least 2 chicken farms, indoors, probably more
cattle in 2 days than we saw in 4 weeks in the UK but still not large mobs.
Only 1 or 2 sheep, who appeared agitated due to flys and heat about.
The French look after their gardens, with lots of colour,
tidy houses and every now and again there is a Crucifix Jesus on a corner or
outside a gateway… possibly blessing the farm?
A lovely days riding, but we get the impression it is about
to get hotter!
29 June,
Sunday. 52km, 28C (41C max)
8:45am away
from accommodation, not many people around at this time of day. 2 boulangeries
open but we ignored as we figured we already had enough to survive the day.
A few
runners out, some bikers both day riders and longer. Following the Mayenne
River all day on smooth gravel path. Every so often there is a lock with a lock
keeper on duty. The lock being single width whilst the rest of the wide river
flowed over control steps. Very pretty settings, seems to be at least one mill sometimes
one each side of the channel. The Locks and Mills date from the 1780’s although
the mills were probably established prior to that in some cases.
There are cafes
at a few of the locks, all having road access to them as well, some with accommodation
in the old mills.
We stopped
at one café about 10:30am, for pain-au-chocolate and coffee. What a setting,
French music playing in the background… just magic!
Arrived in
town of Chateau-Gontier 1pm’ish and went looking for lunch. The big supermarket
closed so went up to old town, a mini-market open but not much else so it was a
pre-packaged sandwich under a tree by the river, it is very hot!
Continued
onto Daon were we are camping tonight. It is hot, so we were lucky to have
shade along the river trail for most of the day. Set up the tent on a big site
largely amongst many campers and caravans. The camp has a kitchen/common room
so could boil a jug and charge a phone. Unfortunately, it was locked in the
evening and unlikely to be open until 9am tomorrow.
Walked to the
town, not a lot there, and back to the riverside restaurant beside the campground.
Ordered a plate which was chips, salad and 2 meats which one cooked on the
provided sizzle plate… worked out fine and was nice.
9:30pm bed,
still hot and sun still to set.
Today and tomorrow’s
ride, on the Mayenne River, was voted the most scenic bike route in Europe in 2018.
There is debate as to whether that is correct it is very nice with the river,
mills, glimpses of chateau and stately homes… and of course more or less flat!
The summer
heat means flies are an issue for livestock, or when eating dinner! Crops of
wheat, some headed, maize, sunflower, and maybe reeds (rather than sugarcane).
Turns out ‘ski’ is the same word in English or French with a couple of river
sections reserved for Ski-ing. Saw 1 woke boarder, surprising there is not more
boats out utilising the river in the summer heat. Maybe the river locks are too
much admin for recreational users.
30 June,
Monday. 45km, 29C (36C max)
Up at 7am
after an OK sleep, went for a walk up to village to let the tent fly dry in the
rising sun and to buy yoghurt to go with our cereal. Noel had a brainwave that
perhaps the gate key may open the kitchen door, it does! So, breakfast,
followed by a brief panic when we thought we had locked ourselves in! Packed up
tent and away by 9:30am… the heat is coming on!
Path
leading us past school groups and camps, one lot kayaking in the river, several
on bikes including a priest (teacher) who was in his black gown and white
collar and temp is 35C !!!
More mills and
chateau, we did a small road detour as the track was closed, also inadvertently
detoured via Montreuil-sur-Maine which turned out wasn’t necessary.
Arrived in
Angers at 1:45pm and we could check in at 2pm so just sat in the shade for
15mins then let ourselves into our house. A one-bedroom apartment, very nice
with the only odd thing being the shower cubicle in the corner of the bedroom. All
good, and bikes able to be put inside apartment as well as a small washing
machine with a drying rack in the yard. Clothes dry quickly.
Down/admin
time until 7pm when we ventured out, still 30C+. Crossed the river and up
behind the cathedral. Found a burger place, order yourself, as the other bar
Noel had lined up wasn’t doing meals this evening.
Walked a
few streets after, it seemed like a lovely city. Lots of the old town still
there and the cathedral/chateau under renovation.
Back from our
walk at about 9:30pm, it is still hot and lots of people just lounging on the riverbanks
etc. Noe saw a deer crossing the track today. A few cyclists and walkers for
the day.
1 July,
Tuesday. 0km, 30C+
Nominated
rest day, a lazy start.
Following
breakfast we went to boulangerie around the corner with high expectations as it
was voted to have the best brioche in the world by the New York Times in 2024.
Ordered and it was bagged up, then lady advised they only took cash and we didn’t
have any!!! She actually offered to hold it while we went and got cash, but we
declined and said we will be back tomorrow.
Walked past
a shop selling glasses/eyewear so popped in and the very helpful man tweaked
Caro’s sunglasses, they are sticking on folding which isn’t helpful. Shouldn’t be
happening for prescription ones that are worth a bit, but they are being
subjected to a lot of outside elements. He wouldn’t charge anything, and used it
as a training exercise for his apprentice.
Took a walk
up around the back of the castle which has major road/footpath work going on
over 2 sides of it.
A walk
through town and via a small supermarket shop. Back to apartment by 12:30, it
is hot! Spent the afternoon on admin and not doing much.
Ventured
out for dinner to the same area we were in last night. Lots of people just
having drinks, 7:30-8pm’ish, so makes it a bit hard to see/understand menus.
A walk a
bit further in one direction led us to the town hall (Hotel de Ville) which all
the time we have been in France we have thought was a hotel chain!! A large
town square with rotunda, people dancing to a folk music type band, fun to
watch.
Bit of tidy
up/repack tonight with the idea we will get away early tomorrow. It’s going to
be hot!
2 July, Wednesday.
65km, 24C (30C max)
7:45am
departure and after obligatory stop at yesterday’s boulangerie for pain-au-chocolate
to go we are on our way. Following the Mayenne River still, although the name
changes to Maine River somewhere near Angers (same river, just different regional
name). Sandy gravel tracks at this point, a few bike packers already out.
Shortly we
turned to follow cycle trail on the Loire River coming onto it at Port Thibault,
which looks like it has very big old houses behind tall fences. It is a wide
river, split by an island at one stage so for a while just following the dry
river channel.
Quite a
fast ride for us, tarseal surface and flat. Crossed the river then followed
again. Gennes was our lunch stop, just a supermarket sandwich stopping under
trees as we got back to the river. Gennes had a huge church, all open space and
columns, Notre Domede Cunaurt Cunault.
As we
continued following the Loire River we were in limestone country with caves in
peoples back yards being used as sheds etc. Also houses constructed of
limestone. The last 10km riding seemed a bit pointless as we zig-zagged to stay
off the main road but eventually we dropped down into city of Saumur with its
impressive Chateau on the hill. A brief threat of rain but it didn’t come to
anything.
2:15pm
arrival and we were able to check-in early so a bonus. A nice newly renovated
old building, another quirky layout with quite small bedroom too small for our bags.
Bedroom sort of just rolled into bathroom but it all works.
A walk
around the city chateau this evening, built in the 11th century with
extensive alterations in the 15th century to make it look like a
palace. Napoleon 1 saved it from demolition making it into a state prison. It
is now owned by the Saumur council since 1906. Very impressive and looking
quite flash compared to some.
Dinner of
galettes and a sparkling wine for Caro as the area is known for it apparently.
The
farmland during the ride today seemed more uniform in some way. Lots of
cereals, some harvested, maize, sunflowers just starting to flower, hemp,
vineyards and market gardens.
3 July, Thursday.
63km, 25C (33C max)
8:30am and
continued following the Thouet River for a while, not much of a river, as we left
the Loire behind. Out through farmland once again of cereal, sunflowers and
vineyards.
Stop at
Montreuil-Bellay which was up off the route, found a boulangerie for cinnamon scrolls,
yum! The town had a chateau, church and old town walls/gates before dropping
down a very steep hill and out into the country again. Rural riding, harvesting
of grain on the go. The Thouet River is growing as we followed it to the town
of Thouars.
A road closure
meant we ended up pushing our bikes up a very steep road past the ruins of and
old Gothic chateau. Made it to the main part of town and the centre was all
being dug up. Rather strange as we thought we were going to a medieval town. However,
after buying a supermarket sandwich and getting back onto cycle trail we did
find the old part of town which had a few restaurants etc. Lunched sitting on a
wall in front of the Castle of the Dukes of La Tremille. Built 1635-38 and is
now used as a school.
Down the
hill and a stop at a supermarket to get something for dinner as there is no options
near where we are staying this evening. Another 10km to go and we get to the
village of Taize and our AirBnB accommodation for the night in a little gate
house located in a complex that was a horse butchers’ yard back in the day. A
jovial English couple are our hosts and are busy renovating the large house
which is part of the complex.
The area is
known for its melons, and maybe we saw some when riding… looked like pumpkins.
Also, sunflowers, cereal but not much stock, some irrigation. We did pass a couple
of farms with large areas of maize covered with net, most likely for free-range
hens? Although wondered if one we passed had pheasants? One also had metal
boxes set up from ground, hens maybe but they would be very hot hens today!
4 July, Friday.
56km, 28C (39C max)
A slightly
later start as after our breakfast was delivered by hosts after 8am. Then as we
were about to leave we were invited to have a look around their renovations, a
huge amount of work done in 3 years and a massive amount still to go. In one
area upstairs above a false ceiling they found a stock of hand grenades, with
pins still in them, from both WW1 and WW2 plus other ammunitions. They have
been unable to find out the history, and the locals won’t say. Bullet holes
visible in one outside wall and one section of the building was built/rebuilt
late 1940’s. That section obviously destroyed… but why?
When they purchased
the property, it had been empty for 30 years, and before that an elderly lady
lived by herself. So it needed a huge amount of work just to make it
waterproof. A most interesting tour, just like the TV reno programs!
So, delayed
departure about 9:30am to ride through large areas of cereal, quite a lot
harvested and there is harvesters zooming along some roads moving from farm to
farm. Seem to be out of the vineyard areas, but there are still Sunflowers.
Into an
area that had been Roman occupied with bridges, burial chambers and roadways
still visible that are attributed to them.
A bit of
undulating riding arriving to the town of Airvault on the River Thouet where we
stopped at the boulangerie for supplies. A medieval town with a chateau,
subterranean Fountain, a columned Pavilion (no sides) and St Pierre church
built 975AD and rebuilt 11/12th centuries.
The biking
couple we saw a couple of times yesterday arrived after us, spoke to them but
not sure if they speak English or not.
Onward over
some hills, and some heat, over a Roman Bridge crossing the Thouet River.
Stopped at a village for a much-needed soft drink. A brief stop at a church in a
village, already mid-way up a hill, then continued on a long grind before some
sharp ups and downs and finally into the town of Parthenay. Found our hotel
which is located on the longest surviving medieval street in Europe, arriving
around 4pm and pleased to be here.
The
medieval street is cobbled, with stone drainage lines, tricky to ride but extremely
cute and picturesque.
We have a
beautiful room in a renovated building, top floor so quite hot.
A walk to
grocery shop for breakfast supplies and dropped them back before exploring. Talked
to an English chap that now lives here in a building dating from the 1500’s
which he renovated.
We had a
drink at a bar on the street but decided their menu was more like appetizers so
didn’t eat there. Found another place and with the help of Google Translate we
both got lovely meals. Walked back to our hotel the long way via the citadel
(city walls), a convent and medieval streets… an amazing place, not super
touristy and not many locals speak much or any English. Quite refreshing to be
in such a lovely spot that is not yet on the main tourist trails.
Parthenay
is surrounded on 2 sides by the River Thouet, an ancient, fortified town. Some
of the citadel is closed off as unsafe, and some is under repair as there is
marques set up in places. The town first recorded in the 11th century;
the castle was built in the 13th century with walls to protect it. The town
only expanded outside the town walls in the 19th century. The churches
date from 11th and 13th centuries.
5 July, Saturday.
73km, 29C (38C max)
After
breakfast in our room we were packed and ready to go by 8:30am but couldn’t find
anyone to unlock the garage for our bikes! Waited around for 20mins or so before
someone came after Noel’s repeated attempts at messaging/phoning.
Friendly
runners out on a Saturday morning in Pathernay. The route terrain mostly
rolling roads, up and down, up and down. Stopped at a boulangerie for our
pain-au-chocolates (now firmly established as our morning sustenance) about
20km into our ride, Mazières-en-Gâtine. This was about the highest point of our days riding but although we
started dropping altitude there was still some sharp climbs.
Through
farmland of cereal, maize and sunflowers, some irrigation.
Arrived in
city of Niort about 2:30pm and picked up a supermarket sandwich, quite a busy
town. By that stage of the day we passed the couple of bikers we have been
leapfrogging for the last 2 days, plus another who we also saw yesterday but
had spotted back on the Laval trail and campground a few days ago.
Went and
found a bike shop in Niort as Caro has a broken spoke. Chap unable to fix it as
on his own in shop but he cable tied it and assured us in broken English we
would be fine until we could get it repaired.
Leaving the
beautiful city of Niort we followed the river La Sevre Niortaise which is a
very slow moving, very green algae full river… however it is actually clean
looking water and lots of fish and lots of fishermen. There are notices
advising against swimming but there is a few kayakers.
A flat
track meandering with the river largely in the shade which was very much
appreciated. Arrived in town of Coulon at 4:45pm and into our AirBnB apartment
attached to the host’s house. No language in common but very friendly and
helpful hostess. We had initially planned to tent in the area, but forecast is
for rain overnight so made this last minute booking i.e. wimped out!
Went for a walk this evening, quite a few restaurants for
what is a quiet little town, but the area is known as “Venice of the South” and
lots of hire boats etc moored so obviously a popular tourist/day visitor spot.
Followed the music that had been heard since we arrived and discovered there has
been an A&P type show on, and will be going tomorrow. Wound down this evening
but still a large display of vintage tractors, small animal ring and tents set
up as we wandered through.
Ate in the apartment, Pork and Chickpeas from a can, not
gourmet but filled a gap!
Mazières-en-Gâtine
6 July, Sunday. 76km, 17C (25C max)
Only a little rain overnight, left by 8:30am after hastily
booking an AirBnB for tonight. The BookaBach one we queried last night did not
reply in time and we are unable to book on that platform the same day as stay
unfortunately. Here’s hoping the one we have booked will have bike storage,
sounds slightly unsure.
Hadn’t been biking for long when the rain came, so jackets
and leggings on as we are meant to be getting a bit according to forecast. Meandering
along gravel bike tracks as we follow around the numerous channels (drainage), flat
riding. There are cattle grazing in places, but it is possibly too wet for
machinery-based agriculture.
Stopped at a little village for pain-au-chocolate, it had a
scarecrow theme going on with lots of scarecrow variations. We continue on,
still on bike paths between or beside sizable canals and then onto roadway
beside a major canal. Lots of fishing folk and lots of small houses on the
opposite bank. As the channel/canal got larger there were boats out with people
fishing off them.
The wind became quite strong, almost side on, tough going
but a good road/track surface so helped.
Arrived in Marans, a bigger town, thinking about lunch but the
supermarket closed at 1pm and appeared to be no convenience stores open either,
so we kept on pedalling. The wind dying down a little thankfully and some blue
sky appearing.
Turned towards the coast at Marans and followed canal path,
very smooth and sheltered all the way to city of La Rochelle arriving 3:15pm.
Found our way to our apartment and met the host to get the key 3:45pm. Sun shining
after a brief rain shower. Bikes fitted in the bike storage room which is part
of the apartment complex luckily. Apartment is on 1st floor and is
lovely, includes a washing machine which was on our requirements when filtering
results.
Walked into the main part of the city for dinner at a burger
place, very nice meal and perfect as we hadn’t had a proper lunch today so were
getting hungry enough! A quick walk around but it is quite cold and we aren’t
really dressed for it… tomorrow for exploring.
7 July, Monday. 10km, 21C
Another break day so quite lazy, sort of. 7am rising after a
good, but cramp prone, sleep. Walked to nearby small supermarket to get breakfast
supplies of yoghurt, fruit, cereal.
Slow breakfast and worked out how to use the Nespresso
machine.
Did take our bikes out and biked through the old port on outskirts
of city, and then to a bike repair shop Noel had researched… yes, very helpful chap
repaired the broken spoke then and there E30, which we appreciated hugely.
Returned to apartment via stop at boulangerie for our pain-au-chocolate fix and
a sandwich for lunch. A bit of trip research, a bit sleepy too.
After lunch we biked to train station to sort out tomorrow’s
manoeuvres and they advised it was booked up Tuesday and Wednesday except for
5:30am departure… so that may have to be the one, and we have to book it
online. Came back to apartment and got on computer, worked out with 2 different
bookings we can get to Biarritz and not leave so early so that’s what we booked
and should be there early arvo after a change at Bordeux. Booked a Biarritz
hotel for 3 nights after confirming by email they have bike storage whilst we
stay but not if we leave them. So our plans for San Sebastion, Spain, might
turn into a day trip instead of a couple of nights.
A beer for pre-dinner drinks courtesy of our AirBnB host and
then out for a walk and dinner. Warmer than last night but still need a jersey,
wandered around parts of the old town and found somewhere for dinner which was
OK but not great.
Packed up this evening, we will be leaving by 7am. We are
leaving before a big movie festival hits La Rochelle in a few days, they are
setting up arena etc in centre of town. Probably a good thing we missed it as up
to 150,000 people are expected and we think it is a busy enough place already!
8 July, Tuesday.
Today turned out to be a really stressful day, and it is our
own fault really.
Up 6am and onto 7:30am train to Bordeaux… tick, easy! …
except, the train was delayed and arrived in Bordeaux 20 minutes late, leaving us
with 25 minutes to change trains instead of 45 minutes. Doesn’t sound too bad
but not when you have to manhandle bikes and luggage off train, into a lift one
at a time, underground passages to other platforms etc. Phone alert said to go
to platform B, but unknown to us that was incorrect. Once in the below level corridors
we couldn’t find the lift up, Noel tried putting his bike in panic on an
escalator… that almost ended badly.
Eventually found the lift, queue!! Got up to right level,
found Platform B but no train... a train about to leave Platform A so asked
station attendant and he said, wee wee get on quickly. However, once moving we
worked out we might be wrong and train attendant confirmed but told us to get
off at next station and await a correct train.
So, off at Bijanos Facture, and there’s not much there. But,
sure enough, the train we are meant to be on stops 10minutes later… but… the guard
told us not to try getting on as “no bike space” and await next train, 2.5
hours away!!! Noel asked at ticket office if we should just go back to Bordeaux
but they assured us better to wait.
Caro went for walk around station surroundings but there is
not much there, managed to buy a couple of muffins. Eventually the train
arrives, pretty much straight after another to a different destination so a bit
of confusion. Worked out which one and by that stage there is 4 bikers trying
to get on. Noel forced his way on and got my bike and bags on as well with the
help of a USA lady that was sitting on floor by door…. But then worked out it
wasn’t a bike carriage; the train is packed/overfull with tourists and locals.
The guard came through and is not impressed we are there with bikes jammed in…
but at the next station he holds the train (after Caro stressfully says we can’t
get on that one either) as we change carriages… boy it’s stressful and hard
work. There is actually specialist bike staff on board and the guard growls at
them to make room for us, God knows how they do it.
We get off at Biarittz, with at least 8 other bikers. The
bikes all stacked on top of each other by the official train/velo man who was
covered in sweat and as stressed as we were! 10 minute ride up into town and to
our hotel, bikes into storage and us into a lovely 4th floor room… even
got a glimpse of sea view from the sunlounder deck of our room. A big sigh of
relief at getting here, boy, what a day.
After some well needed recovery time we head out for a walk.
Initially down to overlook a surf beach area then along to a petite beach,
lovely, but the whole place is very busy.
Dinner at a pizza restaurant, we are pretty hungry and we then
walk back down the main eating street to the petite beach. There are 2 lots of
men’s groups singing/busking spots in the restaurant area. Then back to the
hotel.
So, we made it to Biarritz. A stressful day but we learnt a
valuable lesson, make a longer gap for a train change over particularly if it
is a big station. The bikes make the whole exercise a lot slower particularly
due to having to use lifts to change platforms. We were very lucky the train
guard on the second train felt sorry for us, the first train couldn’t care
less! Not sure what our plan B or C was but it would have been messy and we likely
would have ended up in Bordeaux trying to find expensive accommodation and hoping
for train availability. One positive is that the French trains allow you to use
any train on day of your booking, however practically that likely adds to their
issues. A messy booking system where you have to book your bikes on a different
website before booking yourself! And most locals ignore the bike booking
requirement!
9 July, Wednesday. 32km, 30C (36C max)
A biking day with no luggage, luxury!
Lazy start, walked to a supermarket for breakfast supplies then
sat on our deck eating our of our camp bowls… don’t think they will have many
guests doing that!
Biked the coastal bike paths as far as St Barbe’s chapel which
looks down onto Saint-Jean-de-Luz, which is a very touristy place with a long
sandy beach lined with apartments and hotels.
A really nice ride for the day, quite up and down but
stunning coastline scenery of beaches etc. Stopped at Bidart village area for
morning tea/lunch, a highest point of the trip, sandwich and pain-au-chocolate.
Several campgrounds as we rode, several beaches. The large surfing beach near
our hotel was full of surf school groups… a very calm tide.
There are some German WW2 bunkers, gun emplacements etc.
Retraced our route back including stopping at the same boulangerie, we utilised
on the way south, for drinks and cake!!
Back at hotel 4pm and after a shower, rest and recovery we
went for a walk. Headed to the long beach which is to the north of where we are
staying… still very busy at 6pm but we walked along the water’s edge, finally getting
our feet in the Atlantic Ocean, temperature tolerable.
Back up the hill for dinner in a burger place that was very
popular with the locals, always a good sign. Walked home via the surf beach
again, lots of surf schools out again as the tide is heading out and waves
calming. A quiet night for us, unlike for a lot of people as there is lots of
partying noise drifting around. We have noticed a lot of people, mostly young/teenagers
are wearing all white outfits with a touch of red (scarf, belt, armband, maybe
socks) and we work out its to celebrate Fetes de Bayonne… a giant party or excuse
to party… for 5 days and 5 nights. There are official activities, as well as obviously
parties everywhere!
Fireworks booming away at about 5:30pm, large bangs but of
course it was daylight so couldn’t see any spectacle. The official description
is 5 days and 5 nights out of time when the young mingle with the old, the rich
with the modest. The common thread is conviviality and the pleasure of being
together (and probably a whole lot of alcohol!!).
10 July, Thursday. 0km, hot
We went to Spain this morning, as you do!
Up at 6am and walk down to the train station to catch a
7:23am train to Hendaye. Hop off the train, walk 20metres from one building to
another, some assistance from a friendly assistant and we are onto a metro
train to San Sebastian. By 8:45am we are there! A chap sitting opposite us helped
us get off at the right station, very friendly!
Chilly for a start as we walked the straight road from the station
to the beach, a few people were walking the water’s edge, a few swimming and
some starting to claim their ‘space’ for the day.
Retraced our steps to find a bakery/restaurant and had a ham
and cheese croissant and potato fritta for breakfast… not quite full Spanish
nor as substantial as the Huevos Rancheros we were thinking we may find. Our
young waitress had spent 7 ears working in Auckland!
Fortified we set off and walked up Monte Urgull which is at
one end of La Concha Bay and overlooks the old city. The Monte has been home to
military fortresses since the 12th century, there are remnants of the
newer century fortifications and the 16th century Monta Castle which
has a 12m high sculpture of Jesus Christ added in 1950. The late 1800’s saw the
monte lose its military importance and after being sold to the city council in
1924 it became a viewing platform for tourists. The area is host to a few different
school groups today.
We then walked down the northern side to view Ondarreta Beach
and then just wandered. Stopped at Sipuzkoa Plaza and sat for a while… the heat
is coming on, watching walking tours passing there and also a chap who was “harvesting”
the coins people are tossing into the water as they cross a little bridge.
We zig-zagged through the old town which by now is super
busy. Stopping to view a couple of churches. The town was burnt to the ground
31 August 1813 after a siege by Napoleonic Forces which explains why the
streets are so uniformly in a grid pattern, grand buildings and apartments.
The local food speciality if pintxos which are tapa like
plates, there are bars serving them and you choose what you want from a cabinet.
However, it was a bit busy and scary for us so we ended up eating at a sit in
bakery.
We checked out the final church cathedral and then walked
back to the train station as we can’t shop (no luggage space) and its too hot
and crowded to think of sitting on the beach.
Back in French territory by 4:30pm and back at the hotel
5:30pm.
Mexican for dinner which was an excellent choice. We are back
on the Velo’s tomorrow and our beach holiday is at an end, for now at least.
