Not much
activity today. Fine and sunny morning but clouds up in afternoon with a wind.
Not cold but not that pleasant either.
Washing
this morning, hung outside in yard and dried within an hour!
Noel on
admin, planning the next stage… booking some trains and some accommodation,
nice to have a plan in place for the next stages. We have also arranged to meet
up with Gauthier and his cousins on Saturday which should be fun.
Walked to
the supermarket for lunch stuff plus some dinner ingredients so we will cook
for ourselves for a welcome change… stir fry chicken and vege with Mexican rice,
yum!
Wind howling
around tonight, not even pleasant enough to head out for a walk. Messenger
contact/update with both Mitch and Logan today.
24 July,
Thursday. 5km, 23C and windy
Another day
of rest, small load of washing and drying, admin tidy up of some plans plus
bikes washed/serviced (new brake pads on Noel’s).
A short
bike reconnaissance of the town, not that big a place really and largely
purpose built 1970/80/90’s housing and apartments. Rode pretty much to end of
buildings then returned via the promenade/waterfront we had been at on Tuesday
night. Along the port canal side road before cutting through town via a nice
boulangerie and back to the apartment to eat our spoils.
A bit of
down time then walked down the waterfront again and out to the lighthouse. A
huge amount of rock groyne work in place, perhaps the windmills are going up right
there?
Very windy,
blowing the sand along the beach. Still people sunbathing, minus umbrellas, a
few hardy souls out swimming… cannot believe how cold the water temps are. The water
is littered with some paper and plastic also, so all in all not that attractive
a location. We had visions of a nice Mediterranean beach resort town so
slightly disappointed, but it was good to have a couple of days break.
Back to the
supermarket for cereal and banana’s, bit more down time then walked out for
dinner. We tried in a different area but there wasn’t much there so retraced
toward the waterfront and found a place.
Caro ordered
Moules de crème which when they arrived it was a huge bowl, would have been
enough for us both. Tiny mussels in some but probably 3 dozen at least, plus
frites for total of E16.50… quite amazing. Noel took the easy option of a
hamburger, didn’t fancy goat cheese with duck. All very nice until the mosquito’s
turned up and we were busy swotting or being eaten… so ate up and left pretty
smartly after that.
Noel is comparing
the town to Bluff… possibly a bit harsh but with all the buildings the same age
and sterile it really doesn’t have much character.
25 July,
Friday. 64km 24C (34C max)
8am
departure into windy and sunny conditions, first stop at boulangerie to purchase
lunch supplies.
On a path
beside the Canal de la Robine which was a narrow dirt track wedged between the
sea and the canal. A narrow sliver of packed dirt and the rest dried bike ruts
so quite tricky to ride particularly as it was a strong side wind and also
plantings encroaching in spots… visions of getting wet one side or other kept
us concentrating and we weren’t sure if we were on right place or even it it
went right through until we met other bikers. Merged beside a railway track,
with regular trains, then back to water both sides. Interesting riding!
Once off
the canal track it was onto some road, with tail wind for a period, yay, then
back cross country around the side of a wetland lake near the town of Gruissan
which looked lovely from a distance with a castle ruin on a hill. Lots and lots
and lots of people are out walking, biking as well as some windsurfers on the
lake. Path then became path alongside beach and suddenly this was more like the
Mediterranean resort type beach we had envisaged. Almost took a wrong turn into
a naturalist resort, but luckily realised our mistake before we had to start
shedding clothes.
Stores,
supermarkets, theme parks, water parks, horse riding, go karts etc. Huge
stretch of campgrounds, then passed through the town of Narbonne which had a
lovely long beach with landscaped promenades. Once again lots of shops and
restaurants by the beachside path. Very evident that it had the vibrancy that
Port Nouvelle was definitely lacking… would have been a nicer spot to stop but
distances didn’t work when on bikes!
Whole area is
very busy with people, and a market underway as well. The beach not excessively
crowded as it was being hit with the wind too.
Then turned
inland onto quiet roads, lots of vineyards and Chateaux to have lunch at if so
desired. It was a strong headwind on this section, and some climbing, so it was
pretty tough for a period of it. We followed small roads past grapes and some
vege farms to wind our way towards Beziers including a dramatic entrance to the
city over an old pont/bridge crossing the river Orb with the ancient city towering
above.
Béziers is one of the oldest cities in France and dates from
575 BCE. The site has been occupied since Neolithic times, before the
influx of Celts. The Romans refounded the city as a new colonia for
veterans in 36–35 BCE. Stones from the Roman amphitheatre were
used to construct the city wall during the third century. Quite a turbulent
history, including one day in 1209 the entire population of some 20,000 was massacred
by the Crusaders as they wished to rid the area of those aligned with, or
sheltering, the Catharism movement.
Arrived in
Beziers 3pm but our AirBnB check-in is not until 4pm so we went to the city square
and people watched to fill in some time before heading to the apartment in the “old
town”. Very cute ground floor apartment in a converted workshop of some sort,
solid concrete walls and decorations give off a Middle Eastern vibe. Landlady
charging E20 to store our bikes in the hall, first time (and will turn out only
time) we are charged… bit mean but a lovely accommodation none the less.
Rested and
showered we went in search of a barber for Noel… there is a few to choose from
in the area, all seemingly of Middle Eastern origin. After a bit of a wait Noel
suddenly realised they might not take cards, which they didn’t but were happy
to take the E10 cash which was all we had… and would have been less than he
should have been charged. Language no barrier (absolutely no English spoken)
and Noel is lightheaded.
Dinner at a
restaurant that our host recommended, after she walked past and saw us looking
at menu’s in the square… told us to go away from the square as they were
rip-offs with not very good food!! So, a great meal was had, just as we
finished it started raining so we had a quick look at the cathedral and also the
old prison hotel (which was our second-choice option for accommodation) then
back to our unit. It has turned cold compared to what we have been used to.
26 July,
Saturday.
Up at 5:30am
to catch the 6:30am train to Millau, without our bikes. Gauthier is staying
near Millau with his cousins whilst he is on annual holiday. Arrived around
9am, it is cold now we have lifted into the hills but will warm up as the sun gets
higher. Locals were in vests and puffers, not used to seeing that of late!
We had a
breakfast top-up at a boulangerie and then a walk around a few of the streets,
another lovely town.
Gauthier
arrived in a car with his cousins’ wife Sylvia driving and we headed into the
hills! The Causse de Sauveterre which is within the Tarn Gorges National Park
area. A 2-way road but very narrow in places, following a river which has
multiple camping areas. Also, there are lots of kayak on the River Tarn.
Amazing
rock formation and also villages located on both sides of the river, some with
no road access. Stunning scenery.
Gauthier’s
cousin Chris met us, on his motorbike, at the village of Sainte-Enimie which is
a lovely, stunning, medieval village founded in the 7th century. It
was founded by a daughter of the King of France Clotair II, Enimie who started a convent here.
Monasteries were built and it became a pilgrim destination before much was
destroyed during the French revolution 1798. 1905 a road was built thus
ensuring its survival, the road passing through surreal rock arches/tunnels.
We had a
walk around the village and lunch of crepes … very nice.
We then
were taken for a drive to the other side of the valley, onto Causse Mejean (plateau)
and down the valley of the Tarnon River. Simply stunningly spectacular cliffs,
rock mountains etc with caves and the occasional castle. Vultures circling, and
even one walking on the road which was odd even to the locals!
Ice cream at
another cute village then dropped back to the railway station for our 5:30pm train.
So good to catch up with Gauthier, and a real bonus getting a personalised tour
of such a scenic area.
Back to Beziers
7:30pm so out for a walk and dinner, initially sitting at an Italian restaurant
until told we could not share a pizza… so we left and went to the market/food
hall where we could!
Then
watched a 10:30pm light show projected onto an historic church, and explanation
of the local history (in French and English). Very well done.
A fabulous
day.
27 July,
Sunday. 6km
7am start
with breakfast and away from apartment by 9am... down to railway station aiming for our 10:20am
train which was then delayed by 20 minutes. No problem to us and actually no
problem to get our bikes onto the train this time with only 1 other bike already
on so easy to hang ours. During the journey lots of bikes got on and off, but
by the time we got to Avignon it was back to 3 bikes.
Train ride
was good, passing the sea ports of Sete and Montpellier, both of which looked
nice… but windy (Sylvia told us yesterday when it is windy on the coast it
brings cold sea temperatures). Also passed through Nimes, which is near the
Nimes Pont du Grande (Roman Viaduct) that we had visited in 2019.
Walked our
bikes up the busy main street of the city of Avignon, grabbing some lunch from
a boulangère. We had driven by the walls of the city also in 2019 when travelling
with Chris and Kay… we were in a slow traffic jam that time and didn’t stop,
not sure why but presumably had places to get to!
After lunch
the city centre was so busy we got out of it and through the wall, crossed over
part of the Rhone River and onto Ile de la Barthelasse to have a short ride
around some paths. Thought we could ride by some castles, but they were further
over on the other side of the river or a different island.
Rode back
around the outside of the city walls to our hotel, which is located just over
the road from one gate into the city, by 3pm. We can’t really leave our bikes
parked up with luggage on in cities as large as this from a security angle, so
good to get to hotel after filling in the day.
Bit of a
break, some admin for tomorrow and then out for a walk around and some dinner.
Avignon is
on the Rhone River and is a UNESCO World Heritage site, awarded this in 1995. It
contains the Palais des Popes, Notre Dame des Doms and first became significant
1309-1377 when the Avignon Papacy housed 7 successive popes. In 1348 Pope
Clement VI bought the town and Papal control persisted until 1791 and the
French Revolution.
The city
has it all from a history point of view: Neolithic, Romans, Christianisation at
least by 439, the early and late middle ages, the papacy, French revolution and
history from the 18th century onwards.
Quite busy
with tourism and well known for its performing arts festival which just
finished the day before we arrive. Another lovely town to wander through with very
grand buildings.
28 July,
Monday. 25km, 17C
Another
early start, out of hotel by just after 7am and at train station in plenty of
time for our 8:38am train to Valence. Had a chap talking to us, we were a bit
wary as he looked a bit homeless but he turned out to get on an earlier train
and away so he must have been genuine.
The station
staff helpfully told us where to wait as the bike capable carriage would be at
the front. 4 bikes got on and 6 spaces available to hang so perfect. Off at
Valence after 1.5hours, 6 bikes off there but it went smoothly enough (a bit
worried as they are fast trains and you feel under pressure trying to maneuver
bikes and luggage).
A 50 minute
wait for the train to Annecy, enough time for Pain au Chocolate and coffee.
This train was starting from Valence so easy to get on! 2 bike spaces in our
carriage, at one point there was 5 bikes on board… they are going to have to
change systems, up their capacity, as it appears biking is getting more and
more popular and stretching the rail resources!
We got off
at Aix-les-Bains after some 2.5hours. Getting into the Alps now, sub alpine
technically with lots of large rock Mountains visible on the journey after
passing through areas of Lavender and lots of walnut trees and maize growing.
It was
raining on arrival so a quick check of town for a boulangerie, only tuna sandwiches
which Noel likes but a supermarket hunt for a sandwich for me. Rode down to Lac
du Bourget shore to eat lunch. Lac du Bourget is the largest glacial lake in
France and has the largest freshwater marina in France also. A bit of water
activity happening, possibly a sailing school as lots and lots of little green
yachts bobbing around. Some other larger boats too but it is slightly wet and
cold for much to be happening.
Got onto
cycle route which took us around the lake edge, sheltering under some trees at
one point for a heavy shower to pass. From there beside a small river down to
Chambery arriving at 4pm’ish. Staying in a room in a house tonight, AirBnB, alongside
the owner and his teenage son.
Went for a walk
around Chambery, a nice town in places with the central area having some narrow
lanes and the remains of a large Chateau. Less colourful than some towns but
still nice, and we found somewhere good for dinner.
29 July,
Tuesday. 69km, 22C (31C max)
8:30am
departure after breakfast, we had our own food but kind host also offered bread
and jam. Around the side of Chambery and rejoin river path then onto small
roads. Lots fo bikers out, mainly day bikers or fast training ride types.
Riding
between railway and a main road for a period before losing the railway line and
winding beside highway then onto minor roads.
Passing
lots of vineyards, some with cellar doors advertised, as we followed rolling
country before dropping down onto valley floor. Lots of maize, walnut tree
plantations and crops of beans (possibly Haricot Beans). No big towns passed through,
so we ended up a bit short of Pain au Chocolate or Sandwich! We still had 40km
to go, but mostly downhill as we are following downhill the Isere River valley
thanks to the train trip yesterday, so decided to press on.
Got to the
town of Crolles which is very high-tech industrial town, ST Microelectronics which
is the largest semi-conductor fabrication plant in France, a thermo plasma
factory and another huge company or training centre as we rode through. So it
was definitely big enough for us to find a patisserie to get lovely sandwiches
from, although no Pain au Chocolate!
We continued
our way towards our evening stop of Grenoble, we are following the Isere River
cycle route. The river is very dark brown/black water, must carry a bit of silt
as it’s source is a glacier, Sources de L’lsere.
Found our
way to our hotel which is right in the centre of the city, friendly reception
chap who was the owner and a bit of a comedian so fun getting our bikes stored
in back office.
Grenoble is
a significant European scientific centre, the city advertises itself as the
"Capital of the Alps", due to its size (largest city in the Alps) and
its proximity to the mountains. It can date itself back to 43BC where it was
recorded as a Gallic Village with a bridge over the river Isere. Grenoble was a
glove manufacturing base in the 1800’s, and then early 1900’s large hydropower establishment
in the area. The city has grown to be one of Europe's most important research,
technology and innovation centres, with one in five inhabitants working
directly in these fields. It hosted the Winter Olympics in 1968 following a
post WW2 economic boom.
After showers we headed out to explore. Wandered down to the
river, then took the Téléphérique, a gondola cable with 2 lots of 5 car
clusters (known to locals as “The Bubbles”) rotating, up to the Grenoble
Bastille which overlooks the city spread out on the plains with the mountains
around it.
An easy way
to get up the 264m high bluff, cheap too E6.50 one way. Expansive views anyway
but we walked up a further 140m ascent to Mt Julia, the national memorial to
the French troops.
We then
descended to the city by walking all the way down, zig zagging through tree
lined path and/or historic ramparts with steps. Just after 5pm and heaps and
heaps of runners coming up and down, a popular training trail and being just
after work time they are likely all out at this point.
The views
at the top are spectacular and worth the trip.
A walk
around the city centre, 7pm and the bars/restaurants are very busy… with the
drinking rather than the eating activity! We found a quiet restaurant a la
Fondue, had a Tartiflette which is a Swiss origin popular dish in the Alps.
Comprises potato cubes cooked in cheese and milk, bacon and onion etc for
flavouring/filling. Possibly more of these dishes in coming days, but very
nice.
Back to our
accommodation, de L’Europe Hotel, built 1820 and the oldest hotel in the capital
of the Alps and located right on the Grenette Square, the main square of the
city.
Stunning
mountain scenery for the day, signage describing the area as “pre-alps”, so
looking forward to what we will see in the Alps proper!
30 July,
Wednesday. 70km, 23C (34C max)
8:15am on
the road, didn’t take long to link onto the L’Isere river track and 30km of
paved flat to slightly downhill so quick going for us. Mainly a corridor of
trees with glimpses of the river, which looks more appealing with stoney banks/beaches
and less dark and silty than it appeared yesterday. More fresh water input we
are guessing. Still huge bush covered and rock massifs… very scenic. The path
busy with lots of recreational cyclists.
Back onto
some quiet road sections, up a little and passing so many Walnut groves, some
irrigated and many different ages… lots of Walnut trees!
Went
through town of Vinay, stopping at boulangerie for the obligatory Pain au
Chocolate, and some sandwiches. Quick snack sitting in the Post Office
square/lawn area.
Onward mainly
quiet roads through Walnut farms, some maize and some sunflowers. Free range
pig farming beneath the walnut trees, very happy pigs! Also passed a massive indoor
pig farm, a large truck loaded up with pigs waiting to go, guess all that
French pork has to come from somewhere.
Continued following
the Isere river, crossed over and through a nice village before re-crossing and
out at the very pretty village of Saint Romans. Arriving in the town of
Saint-Nazaire-en-Royans after a 1.5km detour up the river La-bourne to our
campsite for the night, which has great facilities.
The village
is pretty, obviously old and with an ancient aqueduct running over top of part
of the town. There is a monument to resistance fighters of WW2, many of them
only 22-23, the oldest 75 years. Not sure if they came from the surrounding
area and were executed here.
It will be a
climb out of the village in the morning! A very nice afternoon so got some hand
washing done and dry, bonus.
31 July,
Thursday. 32km, 24C (30C max)
After a
stop at the village boulangerie, only one Pain au Chocolate so supplement with
a Pain au Raisin also, we are on road by 9am. Cycle trail and/or one lane
roads, passing maize, cereal, lucerne, lavender and sunflower plus possibly sorghum.
Couple of lovely villages, one being Saint-Paul-les-Romans, and the city of
Romans-sur-Isere.
It has been
a great ride following the River L’Isere, as we get nearer to Valence a large
hydro power station passed. We arrived at the Valance TGV Rhone-Alps-Sud railway
station which is located 13km from the Valance station we were at the other day…
our modus operandi now obvious, take the train up hill, ride down the river!
A large modern
station purpose built for the high-speed trains. Trains to Annecy are meant to
be every hour but from what we could decipher from the announcements (in
French) the 10:36am train was running 3 hours late! So we lined up with a whole
lot of other people… but no other bikes.
A rush when
the train did arrive (not 3 hours late but certainly delayed), with another due
20 mins later. A station guard indicated for us to line up at the front carriage
point, with him telling us to get in and put the velo’s in. There were already
2 bikes hanging, so we just squeezed them in as best we could behind a seat
with them poking into aisle a bit. The on board guard came through and told us
we would have to change carriages at the next stop, which we got a bit stressed
about as limited time and on previous experience it doesn’t always go smoothly.
However as we were getting ready to do so as the train stopped there was
another 2 bikers, with gear, trying to get on… Noel told them they wouldn’t fit
and they headed to another carriage. So we just stayed were we were, and
juggled bikes a bit so they weren’t protruding, bungy strapped them tighter,
and when the guard came back he was happy with that.
But shortly
after we realised we were in 1st class… so at next stop had to sway
to 2nd class anyway!! Also worked out this was express and would
terminate at Chambery instead of taking us all the way to Annecy. When train
stopped at Grenoble, we were getting concerned as to whether Chambery was its
destination, but a quick check of departure board confirmed we were OK.
So, along
with everyone else, off at Chambery and await an Annecy train. Platform was very
full with people, and bikes, also waiting so we didn’t hold much hope but
managed to get on the rear carriage as a couple of bikes got off. Not much room
though with passengers spreading bags into bike area etc. French people are not
that nice on the trains, spreading themselves and their bags over 2 seats and
not moving etc. One lady with a baby offered me a seat which was nice, the next
station lots got off so I moved to give her some space back. Annecy was the
last stop so no rush/panic to get off which was more relaxing.
Bit of
train drama for the day but ended up we arrived at Annecy 4:30pm which was the
same time we had originally been booked to arrive if we had cycled all the way
to Valance.
The hotel
which we only booked this morning is close to town and has really nice
facilities. After showers and a cuppa, we went walking.
Tourists
everywhere of all nationalities, a very busy place.
Annecy is
described as The Venice of the Alps, having 2 or 3 canals lined with restaurants
and bars, situated beside Lake Annecy which is busy with power boats, paddle
boats and restaurant boats.
After
watching a family launch their own boat and head off for some ski-ing we
wandered back into the main town spotting a Mexican street food restaurant…
that will do us, and it was very nice. Walked back through the lovely, busy streets
beside the canals. A very vibrant feel and a beautiful setting. The town also
has a 13th century Chateaux.
1
August, Friday. 40km, 25C (35C max)
Checked out
8:45am and left our panniers at the hotel, first stop breakfast from a busy
boulangerie and ate in the park next door.
Onto the
lakeside path with a whole lot of other bikers and started our clockwise
circumnavigation of Lake Annecy. Large seating grandstands being erected on the
lake shore, we worked out later it is for fireworks displays over the weekend.
Dipped our toes in the lake, it is warmer than the Mediterranean Sea was!
Groups of kids doing lifesaving training.
Past a flash-looking
hotel on the shore before winding along the shoreline, stopped for a bit
watching people on some sort of hydrofoil, self-propelled boards. A bit like pogo
sticks on water, seemed hard to get started and quite exhausting probably!
Large
numbers of rental bikes out, E-bike and normal, with big family groups etc.
Some of the trail was on road but mostly on path… very busy all the way around the
lake. The lake is lovely, looking very clean, located at 447m asl it is the
second largest lake in France and is glacier formed 18000 years ago.
A lovely
ride with great views, lots of parapentes up in the sky after leaping off the
high mountains. We lunched beside the lake courtesy of another artisan
boulangerie, dangling our feet over the water we could see fish about 10-15cm
long.
Finished
our circuit about 1:30pm so had a drink and a sit in the same park we had our breakfast
in, before collecting our panniers and heading to the train station for our
4:02pm train. Easy to get on the train as it starts from Annecy, was parked up
and accessible for about 30mins prior to departure. The 2 bikes didn’t have to
be hung either. Train not very busy and stunning mountain scenery including
glimpses of snow.
Change of
trains at Saint-Servis-les-Bains and 30 minutes to do so. A quiet station, no
lifts so had to carry panniers down and up the stairs to change platforms, returning
to push bikes on the rail slope beside stairs. All OK though as no time
pressure. There is a gondola right beside the rail station, heading up into the
mountains. In retrospect we could have had a night there, but we didn’t know about
the attractions of the town.
The next
train took us up and up into Chamonix. A few people on then more started getting
on at stations as we got closer, many have been tramping, quite a noticeable
number of Americans. Stunning mountains, glaciers as we get closer.
Getting off
at Chamonix was a bit of a circus, although many people got off at the station
before there were lots of people and bikes wanting/pushing to get on and not
moving out of the way. Noel actually got quite grumpy to a couple who wouldn’t
move out of the way… they got the message! Very annoying as the train was stopping
there for 15 minutes, why couldn’t they just stand back and show some etiquette!!
Very rude and dare we say it but a lot of American bolshiness.
Welcome to
Chamonix, a very busy tourist destination but looks attractive. 7:30pm and the restaurants/bars
are heaving. We have a few km’s to backtrack the direction we have came to get
to our accommodation in a shared kitchen/bathroom hostel type place for 3 nights.
So made the call to stop at a supermarket as we have facility to at least boil
water, grabbed some noodles and ham and cheese sandwiches.
Biked on
paths, well laid out and smooth, past a couple of glaciers in the hills… no
wonder it feels chilly, arriving 8:15ish. Shower, dinner and bed. Accommodation
is 3 or 4 rooms with shared facilities beneath a chalet type house, so 7 or 8
people. Reasonably tired facilities but all clean and tidy so all good. It is quite
cheap for this area, breakfast included, so it is constantly full for summer we
think. Our room is twin beds, room decorated like a NZ crib so pretty cool. A
glacier just above the house which our bedroom looks out to, the Bosson
Glacier.
The housing
over the last couple of days as we make our way into the mountains has been
more chalet like, a lot more wood external cladding and construction.
It is
forecast to rain tomorrow so looks like we will have time to sort plans out in
the morning.
2
August, Saturday. 5km, 19C
Raining!
Breakfast was provided at 8:30am with 10 people around the table, substantial
enough breakfast too. It is meant to clear 10am’ish so a bit of time doing
admin and working out what to do for next couple of days.
Cleared by
11:30am so biked, sans luggage… easy, into town stopping at a boulangerie on
the way. We were heading to an information centre but instead headed to the
base building of the Aiguille de Midi lift. This is the number 1 thing to do in
Chamonix but is booked up a couple of days in advance. On-line there were 3
spaces available on Sunday afternoon but nothing for Saturday/today nor Monday.
Noel lined
up anyway and booked us for 6:55am Tuesday morning so we will just stay in Chamonix
for an extra night. Our current place is booked out for Monday night … so
looked online and went to a hotel closer to town and booked, E160 for the night
which isn’t too bad for the town. Also purchased a 3-day lift pass which covers
a lot of the lifts in the area as well as our Tuesday scheduled booking.
Back to our
room as weather still patchy, a bit of planning and for Noel to do our GST
return from afar but unfortunately the internet not strong enough to do that. A
bit of hand-washing and as the sun came out with a little wind it did partially
dry, good enough.
Biked in
towards town, found a brewery which had yummy food too. Back home and Noel
tried GST again. Tomorrow we will hit the gondola’s and chairlifts, the weather
is meant to be improving for next few days.
3
August, Sunday.
Fine and
clear for the morning, some high cloud in the afternoon. Breakfast and away by
9:15am and at base of gondola Téléphérique de la Flegere by 9:50am and the
carpark is already full… but parking not our concern as we just slot into the
bike rack!
Nice to
chat with a couple in the gondola on way up, ex UK and Thailand who now live on
the Gold Coast of Australia and are travelling for a year. They are the only others
on our 10-person gondola.
Off at top
of gondola, 1877m asl, and onto a 8-seater chairlift to take us to 2595m asl. From
there set off on our walk to Lac Blanc. Quite a few people were already walking
the trail, took around 1.25 hours on a rocky undulating trail, spotted some
chamois grazing.
Track
merges with the path from the top of the initial gondola and suddenly a lot
more people added to the almost crowds. Obviously equivalent of a couple of
busloads of Asian tourists in groups but a whole lot of others too.
Up and over
the last ridge/rim to see Lac Blanc. Not that big but very picturesque if get
an angle with less people in the way. A couple of restaurants there as well.
Along the
trail and back there were great views of Mount Blanc and the surrounding
mountains, truly stunning vistas. Backtracked back to the chairlift option,
spotting a herd of bell ringing goats that had a couple of Pyrenean mountain
dogs tending them as well passing sheep also with bell collars and another Pyrenean
mountain dog running with them as minder. The animals aren’t worried about the dogs,
and the dogs just wander amongst them on alert for predators we guess… amazing.
Although there
are snack bars at the top of all the lifts/gondolas we had our pre purchased
food anyway so just dropped down to the top of the gondola on the chairlift and
ate looking at the view. Whilst looking out we spotted what appeared to be a
train on the opposite side of the valley heading up into the mountains. Online
research shows it to be the Montenvers Mer de Glace cog railway… which our pass
covers.
So it is
down the gondola, grab our bikes and ride over to the station even though google
said the queues can be long. But not too bad with a wait time of less than 20
minutes so we joined the queue.
It is a
5.1km long track that the cogwheel train utilises at gradients over 9% to the
terminus at 1913m asl. Electric powered although originally steam when inaugurated
in 1910. As ascending, and at the top, a view of the Drus, Grandes Jorasses and
Grande Charmoz although we are not sure which is which.
Our intention
was just to go up and back but since there appeared to be a big queue waiting
to descend, we went exploring a little. Took the gondola there, which is
reasonably new, down to the ice-cave which also entailed a long length of
steps. The cave sits at 1760m.
The cave
didn’t look pretty from the opening as it is covered in white covers. Inside it
was dripping with melting ice/water, you walked on a carpet and around a bit of
a circle with information boards. Quite a cool experience, in more ways than
one. Out and back up the steps then gondola to then join the large queue
waiting to descend on the railway. It moved reasonably quick though as at this
time of the day, towards the end of afternoon, they put on double trains.
There is a
couple of restaurants at the top, also a hotel/refugio Montenvers Refuge.
Once back
at the base we still had time for a quick cycle to the Domine du Brevent lift,
it was 5:03pm with last up at 5:30 and last down 6pm… so up we went, because we
could. A quick walk around, including the next lift up another 200m, took in
the views and descending vowing to return tomorrow. It was pretty cold up there
at this time of evening.
Grabbed a
nice meal at one of the restaurants at end of town as we didn’t want to venture
in too far as it was getting super busy.
Rode back
home by 7:15pm, quick shower and cuppa and a catch up. A fantastic day!
4
August, Monday
On the move
after breakfast. and packing our luggage but leaving it stacked in the kitchen
area, heading to Les Houches village (the opposite direction to Chamonix). Using
our passes on the Domaine Les Houches lift, a large stand-up gondola that was
quite full of hikers heading off on the Tour de Mont Blanc circuit and trails.
Rode up to Bellevue Hotel, which had a snack shop although we didn’t partake.
Quite a lot of people up in the area walking, both day and multi-day hikers.
We were
walking beside the alpine railway/tramway du Mont-Blanc at the start. It is a
cog railway starting at Le Fayet, which is in the town of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains
where we had swapped trains the other day in transit to Chamonix, and lifting
today to the station at Mont Lachat 2115m asl… but if conditions right it goes
beyond to terminus at 2380m asl. That last section closed today. Very
impressive.
We walked on 4WD track, zig zagging our way up the hill to
Tele de la Charme to return down to base on a smaller gondola. There is ski
area at the top and trails down, and it is a popular mountain biking area over
the summer.
On the top ridge there was some cattle being shifted from
one grazing area to another, and also hay being cut. There is residences and
farmsteads on the ridge, looks quite appealing farmland at this point… not sure
when it is under snow for the winter!
We walked along the road back to our starting terminal,
collected our bikes… we had already bought our food at a boulangerie we had
passed biking to here; we are loath to bike past a boulangerie!
Returned down the valley to just beyond our accommodation and
got on the small 2-seater chairlift Telesiege des Bossons lifting us up to a
view of the Bossons Glacier. A short walk up to the viewpoint, there is also a
small restaurant, where we ate our pre-purchased lunch. A lovely view looking
down on Chamonix and also watching the slow-moving long traffic queue which was
disappearing into the 10km long road tunnel which passes beneath Mont Blanc.
On 24 January 1966 an Air India flight, from Mumbai to
London was en-route to a stop-over in Geneva when it crashed into the Mont
Blanc massif, no survivors with 117 dead. The wreckage was never fully recovered,
and pieces remain emerging from the Bossons Glacier. This includes an engine
from a different 1950 air crash (also Air India) in the same area. There are
some recovered airplane remnants dotted along the trail.
Went back down on the chairlift about 1:30pm, back to
accommodation and recovered our luggage and transferred to our “new” lodgings…
they actually let us into our room early so a bonus.
From there we biked back to the Telecabine de Planpraz to
lift up to the 2000m asl point we had gone to yesterday. From that point took
the Domaine du Brevent, which is a spectacular, large standing only, gondola that
passes across a spectacular gully to Brevent 2525m asl. An amazing ride with
views below!
Quite a busy viewpoint, with restaurant and snack bar. Lots
of rock climbing/climbers, lots of people walking different directions
including back down to the lower gondola. We sat and had an ice-cream and just
soaked in the amazing views. The weather is lovely, certainly warmer temps than
yesterday at this elevation. Rode the gondola’s back down to town level before
riding bikes back to our hotel.
The large cable car over to Brevent is amazing, it is a 50-person
cabin (35-40 on our return trip which seemed cozy enough!). Originally built in
1930 and replaced in 1987 before the current one upgraded in 2019 as a
replacement. The ride has a fabulous view of Mont Blanc and down the valley to
where we were this morning.
A walk down the street, our new hotel is quite close and
found tacos for dinner. A clear evening with the mountains looking spectacular.
5 August, Tuesday. 60km, 29C (35 max)
An early start this morning as we are booked on the Aiguille
de Midi 6:55am. We are the 7th group to load for the morning; it is
all a regimented operation. We are so lucky, it is a stunning blue-sky day.
The cable car must take 50 people or so… we were certainly
packed in and luckily we were on an edge beside a window so got fantastic
views.
The fist segment lifts from Chamonix 1035m asl to Plan de L’Aiguille
2299m asl where you then swap onto a second cable car that took us up to
Aiguille de Midi 3842m asl. Just amazing journey!
As soon as we were in the large complex, we purchased the optional
tickets and lined up straight away… as this bit often sells out early in the
day… with quite a few climbing types.
After a short wait we were loaded, 4 people to a gondola, which
is one of a group of 3 gondolas. This then took us on an amazing journey above
the snow and glacier, and over the French/Italian border to Pointe Helbronner,
3466m asl, in Italy. A 5 km trip taking about 30 minutes each way. Looking down
not only on great views but also some hikers, rock climbers, ice climbers below…
some with tents set up so had been there for the night which would be amazingly
cold, for any of those activities.
A lovely, large, reasonably new complex with viewing
platforms (amazing views everywhere continue) and restaurant.
Once at the Italian side we took in the views from the
platforms, quite cold, and then into the restaurant for coffee and Pain-au-Chocolate
and Chocolate Croissant. Then back into a gondola for the return journey to the
A du Midi station, which once we got there was a bit of busy, noisy zoo
compared to our silent gliding over the Glacier Mer du Glace.
A walk around both inside and outside the complex and then
returned back down to Chamonix via the amazing gondolas to arrive around 11am.
Back to our hotel to collect our bikes and bags, and some
shedding of layers of clothes, we had been well wrapped up for the cold at
altitude… a good decision. Quick stop at the usual boulangerie for sandwich
supply then we were on our way. Biking back through the village, Les Houches, that
we were at yesterday then a reasonable steep road climb.
Then a glorious downhill twisty section, such fun, dropping
through some lovely village and house settings. Some of the same villages we
had passed through on the train to Chamonix the other day. Along some
undulating country which included a bit of climbing in the quite hot day and dropped
into town of Marlioz where we took some shade shelter and refilled water
bottles. On this section we had stopped and watched some kids being instructed
on the art of rock climbing, amazing how small some were and how skilled they
looked!
From the town of Le Fayet onwards we were close to the high-speed
train line we had also been on the other day from Annecy. River plains and
semi-industrial towns in places, a pleasant stop for drink/snacks in a nice
park beside Lac de Passy. This large recreational lake was very busy, lots of
people, some camping but a lot of day visitors. Swimming, a water park, canoes,
sailboarding… everything happening, the sugar burst of a café Coke was appreciated.
A hot day of reasonable distance for an afternoon, a bit of
a grind but thankfully mostly flat or downhill following river gradient to get
us to our overnight stop at Cluse. We had a few false starts trying to find
somewhere for dinner before we go to our AirBnB as we got to town 6:30’ish and
dinner not really cranked up until 7. In fact, we parked our bikes at one
restaurant, took a table and were promptly totally ignored by wait staff for
some 20 minutes even though they served others. So, we left!... along the road
and a roadside Burger King restaurant meal instead.
Arrived at our booked AirBnB 8pm. A lovely room in a
beautiful house with friendly hosts. It has been a big day but spectacular!! So
lucky with our weather also.
6 August, Wednesday. 54km, 21C (28C max)
Au revoir France (for now). Left 8:30am after a yummy
breakfast provided. First stop a supermarket for supplies. A mix of road and
trail, largely following river and the same rail line we had come up from
Annecy on until Bonneville. Found a boulangerie for our compulsory Pain-au-Chocolate!
Turned away from the rail route we had been shadowing and are
now following the River Arve on an unpaved track which is quite busy with
walkers and bikers.
The towns have become quite ordinary looking now, as was
Cluses, a sign of now being out of the Alps. Bonneville was making an effort with
flags, bunting and flower boxes. Chene-Bougeries which is our first major town
in Switzerland, and we ate lunch outside a church, we can see Geneva in the distance.
Down a hill and lots of roadworks to negotiate around, you
wouldn’t know you have changed countries although the cars are a little smarter
and with different registration plates.
Rode into Geneva and ended up beside the lake, Lake Geneva or
Lac Leman as more commonly known locally, by 2:15pm. Rode around the lake edge,
a whole lot of people about, and found the YHA about 2:40pm. Allowed us to
check-in slightly early and bikes tucked up in underground garage storage so
ideal.
A bit of paperwork/online admin, both of us submitting on a
current QLDC planning in relation to freedom camping… guess which way we are
submitting!!
Our room is on the top (6th) floor so nice views,
although a very hot room which we can cool as door opens to balcony. A good room
to get some washing/drying done though.
Out for a walk and dinner about 6:45pm. Found a nice Chinese
restaurant, meal about 63 Swiss Francs, as opposed to around E50 we paid for
equivalent in France so yes, Switzerland is expensive.
A walk towards the old part of town, lovely old houses, and the
old city wall which was constructed 1534, Bastion-de-Saint-Leger. Back out by
the lake and around to the YHA by 9:45pm… a lovely warm evening.
The city has some very grand buildings, but they are close
together so don’t necessarily stand out individually. A nice city. We have been
following the River Arve yesterday and today which joins the Rhone River just after
the Rhone flows out of Lac Leman. A notable building on the Rhone, within
Geneva, is the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices; a former hydraulic power plant now
converted into a theatre.
7 August, Thursday. 68km, 26C (32C max)
9am departure from YHA after supplied buffet breakfast which
was very good; granola, yoghurt, bircher muesli, breads etc.
Following cycle trails but mostly on quiet roads up in the
foothills above the lake. The lake is lined with housing so mostly private access.
There is public accessible plagues (beaches) at points that have walking/biking
access from carpark areas or carparking on roads.
In the foothills a lot of grapes being grown and the closer
you get to Lausanne there is more wineries with cellar doors/restaurants.
Our biking for the hour before/after lunch was
criss-crossing the railway lines. Some agriculture; maize, potatoes, some
market garden and a big horse farm/stud but otherwise no other animals visible.
No Pain-au-Chocolate in sight so our lunch was 2 hamburger
bun type sandwiches with a tuna mayonnaise (accidental on Caro’s part, she
doesn’t like Tuna!) with a bit of lettuce, not spectacular and it cost SF15…
equivalent of NZ$30 !!!!
Came through a couple of pretty villages before Lausanne
with nice views. Got to our intended campground by lake below Lausanne around
5pm, just told to got and find a spot for SF40 (and that’s a cyclist special,
yikes!). A bit of a shock once we saw the number of tents crammed in and the
facilities which are marginal but OK, but we did manage to find a space for our
small tent. It is only for the night, the WIFI is really dodgy is well which is
a bit of a problem and leaves us in limbo as far as planning for the next couple
of days.
Although there is a free bus pass into central Lausanne, we
decided against doing that, just relaxed at the campground and had a walk on
lakefront. The camp store is pretty limited so breakfast likely will be too! We
did eat at the camp restaurant, which was fine… Noel enjoyed his chicken salad,
my meal just OK. Friendly wait staff though.
Overall a slightly disappointing day, as trail didn’t follow
lake edge as we had expected and then we had higher hopes for the campground
expecting Swiss efficiency and cleanliness, but it is slightly less than that.
It is peak summer and peak numbers however so to be understood. The Swiss costs
are taking a bit to get used to also, eye-watering really.
