22 May; Thursday:
A frosty start but it’s going to be a good day. Leaving
winter behind we were taken to the airport by Wayne, to fly to Auckland at
12pm. Arrived in Auckland and got the shuttle to Jet Park hotel, which seems to
be in the middle of the airport storage and distribution area. A walk around
the block, dinner at the hotel and an earlyish night as both of us a bit rough
with a cold or flu.
23 May; Friday:
On the shuttle for the airport at 7am. Left Auckland at 10am, on a Air NZ plane for a 10-hour flight which was reasonably full. A few movies to watch, nothing of consequence tho, mostly stayed awake.
Arrived in Singapore at 4.30pm. Bussed close to our hotel and walked 10 minutes to get there. The hotel is in the historic precinct of Singapore with lots of restaurants and shops about. An older hotel but perfect for us. A quick walk up and down the street, found a spot for dinner (in a mall) and then bedtime, we are both exhausted and slightly unwell.
24 May; Saturday:
A few things going wrong…
- Our colds are not improving very quickly
- Noel’s Wise card is being tried in USA transactions, so he’s frozen it
- My Wise card was not declined but didn’t work on yesterday’s bus fare, it wasn’t activated with the code that got binned before we left home, although Noel could transfer funds to my card prior to leaving
- Roaming not activated.
After a breakfast of toast and eggs, down the road, Noel got roaming sorted. Went to an ATM and got my Wise card working. A UK pounds transaction blocked on Noel’s card.
After checking out (leaving our bags there) we bussed to the Marina Sands area and wandered via some air-conditioned malls. It was very hot …32 C feels like 39 C!!a wander through Marina Sands Hotel and out through the super-tree grove. A lovely park but everything is artificial, trees, a waterslide without water didn’t work well, Friendship Forest which was tall air-filled oblong things.
Got the subway and walked to Karla and Jono’s apartment and had a drink by the pool, smiles from Lily, not so much acknowledgement from Oliver but he’d had a 4th birthday party (his) this morning so a bit tired. Regan arrived too. Spent about an hour with them then went back to the hotel on the subway. A quick and very welcome shower at the hotel pool then a bus to the airport.
Checked in and on the advice of a Singapore Airlines staff member headed to the food hall, quite busy but we found something easy enough. Then through to departures. Noel has completely lost his voice so no conversation happening here!!
25 May; Sunday: fine cool wind
Arrived at Heathrow at 6am after a good flight. Noel had a spare seat beside him, and we were again at the back of the plane, bonus! Not that much sleep tho. Noel still has no voice but according to google if you take blood thinners, which he did (2 of them) then the throat is more vulnerable to trauma…and since he was coughing anyway that could be the reason. Some intense therapy of pineapple juice and ginger and lemon tea, once we got our room, is helping a bit.
Got to our hotel at 8.05am (they were warned), and were able to drop our bags and come back at 1pm for an early check in. The hotel is very close to Kings Cross Station. We walked into the central area via breakfast at a Pretz, a chain sandwich/bakery place.
The British museum was just opening, with a huge queue of people waiting to get in. We crossed the Thames via one of 2 bridges built to commemorate Queen Elizabeth’s golden jubilee in 2002 and along Southbank where a City of London toilet stop cost me 1pound and we think NZ is expensive!!
Recrossed the Thames to Trafalgar square, Leicester Square and via the British museum which still had a massive queue. Lots of tourists in the central areas.
Our room was ready by 1pm so headed back there for a quiet afternoon, showering, cups of tea and a bit of sleeping.
Meeting Evan and Becky at 6pm at a pub within walking distance. A good catch up and a lovely roast lamb dinner. Unfortunately, I coughed my way thru it so hopefully haven’t infected anyone else!!
26 May; Monday: Bank holiday: Fine with a few afternoon showers, hot at times
A slow start after a reasonable sleep, it’s light at 4.30am (maybe earlier) so doesn’t encourage sleeping in, plus the banging of renovations on the above apartment starts at 8am, even though it’s a holiday weekend. There’s a big construction site across the road but they’re not working today.
We were keen to stay away from super touristy places. Got the tube to Hammersmith and wandered back towards London on part of the Thames path, a 298 km national walking trail from Woolwich (near the coast) to the Cotswolds (the source of the Thames).
A nice walk with lots of lovely architecture (of all centuries) to observe. The Hammersmith Bridge, Harrods furniture depository building 1911’ish (now apartments). Detoured through Fulham Palace and gardens, which had been in continuous possession of the Bishops of London 8th to 20th century and the main residence of the Bishop of London 11th century to 1973. The gardens/grounds were impressive in the day as they received exotic plants from all around the colonies. Smallish glass houses built to grow pineapples etc. Backing dollars had come from profits of tobacco and cotton plantations in the Americas, hence it was well embedded in the slave trading business.
Walked past Fulham Football grounds built 1896. There are skinny doors along the road frontage which must have led you directly to your seating section, sadly I think too narrow for modern times!?
Into the Chelsea area where a huge coal powered electricity station had been turned into flash (we’re guessing) apartments, brand new on sale now. Huge brick chimneys on top, very impressive! Also, some quite large boathouse residences along the Thames in the Chelsea area, permanent boathouses would have to be towed to move.
A snack then continued, light passing showers becoming more threatening so bee-lined to Slone Square underground and back to our hotel. It was a five-minute turnaround then on a bus to go to Covent Garden district to get dinner and go to the musical “Tina” which was excellent, no going to sleep in that one!!
Home about 10.30pm, so we filled our day in easily. London has an abundance of grand buildings, it’s lovely to have time to wonder and gaze. We both still have colds, but we are improving, Noel can even talk a-bit now.
27 May; Tuesday:
Packed up, a quick breakfast at a Costa cafe (chain and not great), as the cafe I had lined up was closed. Back to the hotel to check out and walked to Pancras Railway Station. Our train leaving for Leicester at 10.30am. Very pleasant trip with lots of green trees, crops, and gently rolling fields.
It was raining in Leicester, luckily a 3-minute walk to our hotel a Premier Inn where you can store a bike in your room, ideal when we need to set and pack them up. Alan and Janet, our friends we left the bikes with, pulled into the hotel parking at 12.30pm and voila we are reunited with our friends and our trusty bikes. Squeezed the bikes into the lift to store in our room, we’d asked for an accessible’ish room and were given a wheelchair accessible room, so lots of space to sort ourselves out. Left them there and joined Alan and Janet for an excursion.
First stop was Ouorn and Woodhouse Railway Station. The UK’s only mainline heritage railway. Opened in1899 as part of the Great Central Railway. It became a popular station for day trips on bank holidays, serving the industrial working class populations. Day trips organised by Mr Thomas Cook was the start of Thomas Cook Travel. As road overtook rail transport the station closed in 1963. Today the station is set up as a display, including a lady's waiting room, air raid shelter and booking office. There was a function on for some children, so we were lucky enough to see a steam train with carriages pull in, and with time for a cuppa in between, out of the station again, very cool! Still very wet.
Drove to Bradgate Park, a 340 hectare public park of rocky moorland. Home to 450ish red and fellow deer and lots of old Oak trees. It was set up as a hunting park around 1241.
There was a Bradgate House built around 1520, in red brick. Its ruins remain but are fenced off. Its most famous resident was Lady Jane Grey, great granddaughter of Henry VIII. In 1553 at 16 years of age, she was married to Lord Guildford Dudley and through the will of Henry VIII proclaimed Queen of England and Ireland. Nine days later (17 years old), she was executed (beheaded), for treason in the Tower of London, because of political manoeuvres by Mary Tudor, Lady Greys grandmother...it was complicated!!
We walked up to Old John Tower, built around 1784, the highest point on the park. There was also a war memorial there built 1920 to commemorate Leicestershire Yeomanry fallen in the Boer and WW1 wars. Walked back to the carpark on a different route, in our wet weather gear, the rain coming and going a bit.
Dinner at a close by village pub, the whole village owned by a farming estate with all the buildings painted the same colours. Then dropped back to our hotel. Another fabulous adventure courtesy of Alan and Janet.
Noel seems to have a sore, swollen ankle, not sure how he got that?
28 May; Wednesday: 6.2 km: Showers in the morning, temperature ok.
Mostly a day of assembling. Found a place for breakfast then back to the hotel.
Took the bikes for a ride around town. Rode through Leicester Abbey Park. The Abbey was founded in the 12th century and grew to become the wealthiest religious establishment within Leicestershire. It was disestablished 1538, in debt, after a series of incompetent, corrupt and extravagant abbots. Not much of the abbey left now.
Continued to the “old” part of town, very nice with lots of old red brick buildings, elegant clock tower and fountain. Leicester Cathedral where King Richard lll’s tomb is after he was discovered and dug up from a carpark which was originally a Friary. He had been killed in the battle of Bosworth Field 1485.
Went back to the hotel to fit the bikes with their accessories, which took a bit of puzzling.
Leicester was originally a Roman encampment, AD 47. In the 1790’s the Grand Canal linked the city to London, and it became a large industrial hub specializing in textiles, shoes and engineering firms.
Large immigrant populations arrived throughout. Polish soldiers after WW2, Indian subcontinent 1960’s and Asian populations from Kenya and Uganda 1970’s. There is 40% plus people living there that are not UK born. As manufacturing declined and population numbers increased, the economic opportunities have become limited as a result there seems to be a lot of homeless people on the streets.
A walk in the evening to find some dinner, and the last items organised, so tomorrow it’s “on your bike”!!
29 May; Thursday: 62 km’s; 11km/hr; 1000m; 19C (23C max)
Windy, warmish, rain threatening.
And we’re off...bikes all packed and headed off towards Foxton Locks at 8.30 am after breakfasting at the hotel.
Followed the Grand Union Canal path for a while then veered off into the countryside, very green, cropping, some sheep, some beef. A lot of farming smells all day, I think slurry had been spread on paddocks everywhere!!
One sharp hill that we both walked, the back end of our bikes feel so heavy!!
Got to Foxton Locks at 11.30am. It’s the largest “staircase flight” locks on the English canal system, 10 locks with a passing pond in the middle, built 1810-14. In 1900 an inclined plane was built to supersede the locks, which was a boiler engine that hauled boats up and down the slope. This was operational for about 10 years but proved to be uneconomic and was demolished in 1926. The Inclined Plane restoration was started in 2008 and the boiler house has become a museum but was closed today.
There were 3 boats coming down the locks, fascinating to watch. One boat goes in a box that closes, the water drains out and then the gates open for the boat to go into the next box.
We had some lunch there, it was a tourist attraction so there was a pub and a few café type places to choose from. Noel’s ankle is quite sore when he walks, so walking to the top of the locks and back was a bit of a struggle for him.
We are half way from tonight's destination. We started to follow the canal path again but it got very narrow and very rough so abandoned at an overhead bridge back onto a road. The Wahoo navigated us back on track. Some very busy short sections of road, a side or head wind and lots of small ups and downs. We were definitely ready to stop when we pulled into the hotel at Hillmorton at 4pm.
A cuppa and a shower went someway to reviving us. Dinner at the hotel.
Noel has injured his leg/ankle on the first day in London, possibly shin splits, his leg is swollen and he’s quite limpy.
It’s school holidays so there’s lots of kids about.
30 May; Friday: Fine, a bit windy. 47km, 19C (26C max)
Left hotel about 8.30am and rode into Rugby about 5kms away. Rode past Rugby school. A quick look in the shop and museum of Webb Ellis. A walk around the town centre and a small supermarket for immediate supplies.
Back at our bikes we chatted to a Swiss couple, that were having a coffee, they were bike touring as well. A chat with them and then we each headed off in opposite directions.
Out of Rugby, retracing our steps, then down a hill on a bike path (41) to Draycote Water, where there was a police cordon and so we were directed along a footpath instead of the road. It was a very narrow, up and down path, past so very surprised alpaca. The kissing gate at the end of the path was problematic and we had to take the panniers off and lift the bikes over the gate. Apparently, it was a search and rescue operation on the lake.
Continued on footpath through sheep paddocks and after a while back onto road. Followed a canal path from Stockton to near Long Itchington, 8 locks in one spot but not as steep as Foxton’s and off the path at Bascote. Then up and down on roads, through another “road closed” sign and arrived at Jo and Dean’s in Wellesborne about 3pm.
After a cuppa and shower we were in the car to be taken to the village of Chipping Campden. We parked and shuttled to the Cotswold Olimpick Games 1612, where we sat on the edge of a natural arena and watched running races, champion of the hill, standing jump, Cotswold stone, spurning, tug of war and world champion shin kicking events. Jo did a 2 loop cross country running event, it looked tough.
Finally, the lighting of the beacon which was a giant brazier filled with hay set on fire, a fireworks display then hundreds of people walking back down the hill to town holding flaming torches...an astonishing spectacle!! While watching the events, we saw in the distance, the RAF Red Arrows doing a display and up to 10 hot air balloons drifting and just on dusk a single aerobatic plane doing its tricks. An absolutely amazing evening!!
Back to Jo and Dean’s for a small wine, a nip of whiskey and a good night's sleep.
Noel’s leg is quite swollen and very sore when walking, especially down hill. It’s problematic and a puzzle how it even happened, hopefully it heals soon.
31 May; Saturday: Windy, sunny, fine
A slow start, breakfast outside on the patio. Washing on and a plan hatched.
In the car, stopping for coffee at a favourite of Jo and Dean’s, a Nepalese inspired café in the countryside, lovely gardens and outside spaces. Lunch at Cotswolds Distillery at Stourton Shipston-on-Stour.
A walk around a National Trust garden Hidcote Manor Garden near Chipping Campden Beautiful early summer gardens, very impressive and quite busy with visitors. It’s a well-known arts and crafts garden with linked garden rooms. Originally an estate purchased by a wealthy American woman, Gertude Winthrop in 1907, her son Lawrence Johnston designed the garden.
We drove back to the house and an hour later went to Warwick for a look at the town, which was lovely. It’s adjacent to the Avon River and has a beautiful castle dating from 12th century. A fire through the town in 1694 meant a lot of rebuilding in the 18th century, some lovely buildings in the old town. Had a drink in the town square sitting in the sun and dinner in a Mexican restaurant. A very enjoyable day out!!
1 June; Sunday: Cooler, late afternoon rain;
A slow start, after breakfast Jo and Dean took us to Charlecote Park, a National Trust garden and park about 3 km’s from Wellsbourne. A 16th Century red brick country house (mansion) surrounded by its own deer park on the banks of the River Avon. The land of 185 acres was owned by the Lucy family in 1247 AD and decedents still live in the house today, although since 1946 the land has been owned by the National Trust. We walked some of the grounds through deer paddocks and past some Jacobs sheep. Several others out walking too.
Back to Jo and Deans for a change of clothes and they dropped us off at Baroset Barn for lunch with our in-laws to be. Johanna and Garry were there already and Sandra and Dominic turned up soon after. They all seemed lovely, Izzy is very much like her Mum. A lovely roast lunch too. Jo and Garry dropped us back to Jo and Deans.
A bit of planning done for our next steps. Dean took us to another Country Estate house, now operating as a hotel, about 5 km away, Walton Hall. We walked a loop on roads through crop fields then into a hall of the building, another very big house. The whole complex seemed reasonably deserted.
Drove back via another big 18th Century house Compton Verney, it sometimes hosts summer concerts.
Dinner in tonight. Talked to Rob Miller and co on video call. Gave Mitchell a phone call too. It’s been a fabulous interlude to our biking, thank you so much Jo and Dean!
2 June; Monday: 28km: fine, light wind. 15C (24C max)
Up at 7am, breakfasted, packed and ready to leave at 8.15am. A massive thank you Jo and Dean, hope to see you back in NZ sometime.
Wound our way on quiet roads to Stratford upon Avon. Parked up in the canal area. Went for a walk past the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, across the canal and back via a Shakespeare statue. We biked up a main street to look at Shakespeare’s birthplace, that area was teeming with tourists, lots of guided tours, so we didn’t stay for long.
Stratford upon Avon is a popular tourist destination, in part because it is the birthplace of William Shakespeare (1564-1616). It’s also home to the Royal Shakespeare Company. Stratford upon Avon was settled by the Romans 1-5 Centuries AD. The Anglo Saxons invaded in the &7th Century and has been populated ever since. Shakespeare is its most famous son and that’s what draws the tourists of today.
As we left Stratford upon Avon we attempted to use the canal path, but it was very narrow and busy with walkers so took a street detour instead, then went back onto the canal path as foot traffic dwindled. A canal closed section saw us detour through streets but with the second one we went cross country along the edge of a wheat paddock.
Made our way to Wootton Waven about 1pm and called on Mike, (Tim’s dad). Mike had lunch organised for us which was lovely. Stayed there for about 1.5 hours. Left Mike’s to go to the Wootton Waven railway station very close by and got on a train to Birmingham. We are staying at a Travel Lodge tonight and are booked on a train to Bristol tomorrow. The bikes are a bit of a struggle to get on the trains, but easier than the alternative of 3 days cycling.
A walk downtown for dinner, a mish mash collection of buildings, from the very old and grand to the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s high rises scattered throughout. Not a pretty city, but quite orderly, (we are only looking at one small area so not a particularly informed opinion!). It’s the second largest city in England. Birmingham suffered heavy bombing by the Germans in WW2, so the gaps have been replaced with “functional of their time” buildings.
A nice brewery for dinner and back to the hotel. There are a few inebriated people about but not many visibly homeless. Birmingham's symbol is a bull, it comes from the 16th Century practice of bull baiting, near the now bull ring shopping mall. Bull baiting is tethering a bull to an iron hoop and setting dogs onto it until it is immobilized, a betting sport but it certainly doesn’t sound very pleasant.
3 June; Tuesday: Raining am, cool wind pm. 38 km, 12 without panniers, 18C
Went out to find breakfast near the Bull Ring shopping centre. There is a modern mall and an older style food and “stuff” market. We were too early for most cafes so ended up with a Starbucks sandwich.
Packed up and left for the Birmingham Station, a 5-minute bike ride, in the rain. Got our tickets sorted and waited on platform 7a accessed by a lift. Train arrived and we had to unload the panniers and hang the bikes, a bit awkward but ok.
Travelled through rolling farmland, but you only get glimpses as the railway is mostly banked on both sides. One and a half hours later we pull into Bristol, thus saving 1.5-2 days biking.
There is a cold wind in Bristol. Heading out of the station we found a very popular bakery, stopped there for lunch.
Then wound through a few streets and onto cycleway 4, which was a railway path, sealed all the way to Bath, 28 km’s. Mostly slightly downhill, bonus! The cycleway finished in the middle of Bath.
We found our way to our hotel, in a smart avenue of smart apartments. Very helpful staff, with our bikes stored inside. For some reason we have been upgraded, so are on the 3rd/4th floor looking out to Bath rugby and croquet grounds and to Priory Park in the distance.
We had a bit of recovery time i.e. a cup of tea, then took our bikes, minus their luggage, on tour. First through the main areas of town, which is very busy with tourists and tour groups. Past the Bath Abbey, view of Pulteney Bridge crossing the Avon River, past the Roman Baths, originating 70AD. Through shopping streets to the Circus, a historic ring of town houses built 1754-1768. Then to The Crescent, a row of 30 terraced houses built 1767-1774.
We then biked past Victoria Park and over a hill to the Royal Hospital of Bath. The hospital had an Urgent Doctor facility, we’re still concerned about Noel’s leg/foot as it’s still very swollen. Noel had a look in the waiting room but thought there was a lot of people (maybe 100) waiting so we gave it amiss. Continued our loop and found a pub for dinner.
I had the bright idea of going up Priory Hill for a view, we got so far up a hill, but it was the wrong one, so came back down and followed the Avon back to the centre. Then back to our hotel about 8.45pm.
Bath is a very attractive city, wherever you look. It’s a UNESCO world heritage site (1987). Its buildings have been carefully maintained, and new buildings have been built using the same limestone rock and the same heights as the old, so everything fits and blends in. Bath has evidence of human occupation since the Mesolithic period, so stone, bronze iron ages then the Romans 60-70 AD, attractive because of the hot/healing springs, and there’s been people ever since.
A lovely city to visit.
4 June; Wednesday: Raining: 40 km, 15C (21C max)
Breakfast at 8.30am, then some delaying tactics in the hope the rain will disappear and by 9.30am it had!
Retraced our steps through Bath, only 1 or 2 tourists around the Abbey and hanging outside the Roman Baths. Biking up a main walking street, a nicely dressed lady coming towards us told us we were matchy-matchy with our colours!! That put a smile on our faces!
We got onto the 2 Tunnels Greenway, an old railway line, Bath to Midford. It went through 2 tunnels, Devenshire 409m long and Combe Down 1672m long (1.03 miles). Following mostly path but on the road through the village of Wellow, which was very pretty. Stopped at the village shop for flapjacks, an oat-based muesli bar.
Continued on to Rodstock picking up the trail again on the outskirts. The trail went through some of the town then onto road, up and down, up and down though not awful. It started raining and got cold about 10 kms from Wells.
Arrived in Wells about 3pm and booked into a hotel. We biked past Wells Cathedral but there was filming going on for something so the street was lined with big white trucks and closed to traffic. The Cathedral had scaffolding and shielding cloth around bits of it, so no postcard perfect photos for us. Spotted a couple of chaps going to the crew canteen to the side of the Cathedral, both in flowing capes, one all shiny gold. According to google it was a Hollywood fantasy film Masters of the Universe. The locals didn’t know what it was or at least weren’t telling us!
Priority was a cuppa and a shower to warm up. Noel stayed indoors to do some admin and to stay off his leg, which doesn’t affect his biking but is quite sore when he walks?
I went for a walk around Wells, it is so lovely!! A Cathedral town sitting under the hills of Mendip. The city was a Roman settlement and became an important centre under the Anglo-Saxons 704 AD. In 909 AD it became the seat of a newly formed Bishopric. The Cathedral and Bishops Palace was constructed in the first half of the 13th Century. It has naturally occurring springs within the old palace walls, which kept/keeps the moat filled. The main street has water flowing continuously along stone channels. In the 1700’s there was wool and textile trades and later dairy agriculture, but the economy has always been tied to the Cathedral and the wealth of its Bishops.
A very pretty town and an ideal place to stop for the night.
5 June; Thursday: Raining. 44km, 13C (19C max)
It’s wet! Quite wet! We had a 7.15am breakfast to get ahead of the other bikers that are staying here, about 8-10 of them. They’ve been staying here for 3-4 nights and are using Wells as the base and doing day rides around the area.
Left about 8.30am, via a quick look through the open gate of the Bishops Palace, and a supermarket. Back following cycle route 3, along roadside path then onto quiet roads.
Cycling by a roundabout towards Glastonbury we went right past West Mendip Hospital, Urgent Treatment Centre/Minor Treatment Centre, still wondering why/what is wrong with Noel’s leg/ankle, we called in to see how busy they were. The receptionist said they weren’t busy and 10 minutes later he was seen by a nurse and nurse practitioner. They decided no blood clots, no breaks just soft tissue damage (possibly brought on by the blood thinners and exercise combination), so elevation when he can and Ibuprofen often, reassuring at least!
Off we went again and up a footpath and a very steep hill.
Parking for Glastonbury Tor was at the top of the hill, then a steep 20-minute walk from there, according to a couple of ladies we talked to, so that’s what we did. The land the Tor is on is surrounded by myth and mystic. It’s a 158m hill of layers of Jurassic era clay and blue lias, alternating layers of limestone and mudstone, that has stood firm while the surrounding soils have eroded. The Tor is surrounded by step like terraces, which the what/how/why are still being debated today. Artifacts from human visitation have been found dating from the Iron Age (1200-550BC) to Roman times. Several buildings were constructed on the summit during Anglo Saxon and early Medieval periods and probably a church amongst it, believed to be destroyed by a earthquake in 1275AD. A stone church of St Micheal replaced it in the 14th Century, and the tor (tower) remains. Lovely views from there, even with the clouds.
Onto Glastonbury for lunch, a busy place with walking tours and walking groups hiking through. From Neolithic times, it’s a town of rich heritage, presenting itself as “traditionally the oldest above ground Christian Church in the world”. There is King Arthur legends, mystical energy shops and celebrations, music festivals and a whole lot of drugs I imagine, it has a very alternative vibe! Also has the remnants of an Abbey, established in the 8th Century.
Lunch at a café, sat outside and it poured, thunder rolling around. Once it eased off, we left, down paths by wetland reserve, and peat harvesting areas. Wound our way around the countryside, staying away from major roads. We were meant to take a canal path to Bridgewater but was closed, so we followed roads and footpath instead.
Found our hotel, our bikes are in a wedding marquee tonight. Dinner at the hotel and then we went for a walk. Bridgewater seems a bit disjointed, a mish mash of buildings, different ages, some look abandoned. A lot of people hanging around, smoking, vaping, drinking, it doesn’t look very prosperous.
A bit of forward planning for our next 9 days before the Isle of Wight.
6 June, Friday. 64km, 17C (22C max)
8:15am departure from Bridgwater after a yummy, supplied breakfast. Initially following a canal path beside a canal that doesn’t join up with any other canals, the Bridgwater-Taunton canal. Some boats parked up but not much sign of life although path quite busy with walkers, dog walkers and we stopped and chatted to an oncoming bike-packer who is doing the Lands End to John O’Grouts route. That route does the length of the UK, we are on part of it this morning and had done sections of it last year further north, Cycle Route 3.
The canal route took us into Taunton where it was trying to rain. A modern looking town with lots of apartment buildings on the canal, also rode past the Somerset Cricket Arena and a glance down a more historic main street. Stopped for a breather and some adjustments on the front roll holder and one of the bottle holders on Noel’s bike then continued on into the hills.
Just as we were contemplating lunch… a pub appeared, so easy decision to not let the chance pass by!
From there a bit more on very narrow road lanes and then onto the Great Western Canal Path. The canal was constructed in the 1800’s to cart lime rock form Lowdells to a crushing plant in Tiverton, and also for cartage of coal to the various lime kilns. The canal barges were pulled by horses and hence the wide canal paths. Very nice to ride on, especially as they are basically flat to slightly downhill in the direction we are riding. A lot of walkers, dogs and fishing folk utilising the path as well.
The first canal we followed was dotted with concrete pill boxes built at the start of WW2 as a first line of defence if the Germans were successful in a land invasion from the south.
Arrived at Tiverton 3:30pm before check-in time and as there didn’t seem to be a convenient café we just sat in a sheltered carpark out of the wind then went to our BnB. A nice place with our room overlooking the River Exe and the hills beyond… tomorrows challenge!!
Occupation of Tiverton dates to the stone age, its growth and prosperity in the 16th and 17th centuries was due to the wool trade. As the industrial revolution took over the town went into decline but was saved by a lace-making industry. It is now a dormitory town for the cities of Taunton and Exeter. A mix of old and new buildings, the old buildings exuding the wealth of times past.
Dinner across the river at a busy fish and chip/burger café, and a short walk around the town afterwards. A look at St Peters Church dating from 1073 and the 1800’s Tiverton Castle which now comprises a group of ruined perimeter walls, towers and buildings. There’s quite cold wind so not very encouraging to be out and about, also heavy rain predicted but here’s hoping it is overnight.
Didn’t see much stock on our days riding, although some huge farm barns with the odour to go with them. A lot of crop, corn or maize, cereal and some peas on very red-looking soils.
7 June, Saturday. 54km, 10C (16C max)
A later start enforced as breakfast not served until 8:30am so away from BnB 9:15am and immediately a stop at a bakery for supplies. Light rain is already falling.
A shock with a big, long hill climbing up the aptly named “Longdrag Hill”. We missed a turnoff to Tombstone Road and did a couple of extra kms as a result, Once onto Tombstone Road it led us towards Nomansland and it is getting very wet. Rolling rural countryside with cereals and grass, a few cattle but not much livestock. There are roadside honesty stalls but eggs seems to be the main item they are selling, plus a couple of farm shops advertising eggs and milk… but no cakes!
Raining continuously and sometimes very heavy, out wet weather gear is earning it’s keep. Arrived at the small, cute village of Lapford 12:15 to the sound of church bells… just as we were thinking we may find a church porch to shelter in. A wedding about to start so don’t think they would have been impressed if we did that! And what awful weather for a wedding, poor couple!
Luckily there was the “Old Malt Scoop Inn” just across the street from the church and it was open and serving food. It was busy with locals gazing out the windows for a glimpse of the (perhaps soggy) bride… the staff welcomed us in and told us to sit in a window seat to see as well!
A lovely lunch and then we layered up and departed into heavy rain just as the bells were ringing out to signify the end of the ceremony, and the pub began filling with wedding guests.
It was very wet as we biked up and down, up and down including down some extremely steep roads.
We arrived into Okehampton around 4pm and we were very wet, dripping in fact although our wet weather gear is good so not wet to the skin. Caro is hunting for barley sugars as she has completely lost her muscle power with 4km still to go, and uphill for part of it. Came right with a sugar burst!
We are in an AirBnB tonight, a room in a house being hosted by an ex–Hong Kong couple and located about 20mins walk into town. After hot showers and many cups of tea we walk into town for dinner at a pub, some parts of which date to the 1600’s.
Okehampton is beside the River Okement with the earliest recorded settlement by the Saxons in 980AD. It is recorded as a place for slaves to be freed at the crossroads. The town grew on the medieval wool trade and has a 15th century chapel and castle amongst its notable buildings although there is not much left of the castle.
It is near to Dartmoor National Park and there is large military bases nearby, doesn’t seem to be any current big industries here but the town does seem prosperous compared to the previous two towns we stayed in. There is a mix of old and new subdivisions, some of which seem mouldy on the outside… leaky homes?
8 June, Sunday. 68km, 14C (21C max)
Came down to our provided breakfast this morning to find already served plates containing bacon, sausage, scrambled egg, mushroom, tomato, mixed vege plus a croissant, fruit, cheese and cereal (which was at least optional) … so a hearty start to the day. Then we were presented with chocolates as we walked out the door… amazing!!
After dropping into the town of Okehampton it was an immediate climb back up the hill to where the railway station is located for us to join onto a walking/biking rail side path. The path led to village of Lydford 16km on, a busy path with walkers, runners, bikers, little bikers learning to ride, and dogs. Very pleasant almost flat riding winding its way around the side of hills so had lovely views also.
At Lydford the path stopped so biked through the town as the church bells tolled for 11am service. Lydford castle is beside the church so we stopped and had a wander around. A very English setting of a quaint village of peeling church bells!
Quiet road riding with a very steep drop and back up to the Lydford Gorge National Trust site. A 2.4km long gorge on the river Lyd located on the edge of the Dartmoor National Park. We did a 30minute walk around the river and through and above the Devils Cauldron on a slightly scary walkway suspended over the churning cauldron… quite special!
Back on the bikes and further up the road was another entrance to the site to view the White Lady waterfall, but after seeing photo’s in the visitor centre we decided to keep going as appears to be just a thin tall stream of water.
On some undulating (read up and down) roads for a while that had expansive views on one side and then onto a rough, rocky pathway. We passed Mary Tavy Power Station and 10 minutes later we popped out from the path at Peter Tavy Inn. Perfect timing for a pub lunch but as we are still carrying yesterday’s sandwiches we reluctantly pedaled on past! Stopped for lunch on the side of the path then more cycle path, small section of road before another path. Called Drakes Trail, it is ex railway too and that took us all the way to Tavistock. Overlooking the town from a viaduct the old part looked to have dark grey stone buildings and churches. Wound through the town then back onto railway path, still quite high up and going over viaducts with lovely country views.
It was uphill from Tavistock levelling out at a plateau at Yelverton. It was extraordinary cycling onto the plateau were we emerged which seemed to be at a crossroads, and had sheep, wildish horses, people and their dogs, a couple of tents being dismantled so had been there for the day or weekend, and an ice-cream van selling its wares!!!!
We had to get around the corner a little before we saw any housing. There is some newish developments as well as older places so quite a small settlement although lots of people walking, biking, recreating on the greens and moor etc. A chap on the trail had told us to watch out for the nice pub but we seemed to miss that!
Then it was 8km of gentle downhill, viaducts and a tunnel, amazing and enjoyable riding although a bit cold. Downhill all the way to Plymouth where we followed a very busy estuary path and wound our way into the city.
We got to our very impressive and grand old, 1860’s, hotel about 6pm where our bikes are stored in the ballroom! Went and found Sunday Roast at a foreshore pub and then a short walk through The Hoe, a park which used to be a defense force base but is now a park and gardens.
9 June, Monday. 16km, 17C (21C max)
After breakfast at the hotel, we left our luggage there and did a bike tour around Plymouth. We followed the seawall passing the saltwater pool (lido) that is currently under restoration. A few hardy souls swimming in the sea.
We passed under the Citadel, parts of which are still being used by the military. Then onto the Barbicon area, for a look at the Mayflower Steps. The Pilgrim Fathers, 102 of them plus 30 crew, are thought to have used the steps as they left from Plymouth Harbour in 1620 crossing the Atlantic to near the tip of Cape Cod, Massachusetts over a sailing period of 10 weeks.
There are a lot of plaques in place commemorating various different people: Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip departing on one trip, early unionists that were sent to Australia, convicts similarly sent to Australia.
Plymouth was one of the most heavily bombed cities in the UK during WW2 however some areas of the Barbicon survived and hence still narrow lanes and lovely old buildings.
We then biked to the Royal William Victualling Yard depot of the Royal Navy that historically was used for sorting ship supplies. Built between 1826-1835 it covers an area of 16 hectares. The area passed out of defense hands in 1992 and has been, and continues to be, redeveloped into restaurants, apartments etc. Obviously still a lot to do but it will be a fabulous asset to the city once all complete.
We had a quick look at Devils Point and then biked back to the hotel to collect our bags. Stopped for lunch just near the hotel then found our way to the railway station to wait a couple of hours for our train to Exeter. People watching as 8-10 young folk filling out their forms as they waited to go for Navy interviews.
An hour on the train to arrive at Exeter 4:30’ish, saving ourselves a day or 2 of riding. Wound our way from station along cycle route 2 past the River Exe and into town and our pub accommodation for the night. The White Horse, our second White Horse Inn we have stayed in, a chain type of pub. Our pie meal at the pub tonight wasn’t as good as it should have been, and took an hour to arrive, but cheap… the joys of a one-night stand!!! It did have heated towel rail so a little hand washing done.
A walk around Exeter, some amazing buildings including an 11th century Cathedral and surrounds. A choir practicing in the Cathedral. Tudor buildings in some of the streets. It looks a nice city, a university city so has that feel, but a few homeless and drunks about the main shopping area.
Exeter established on the wool trade but was in decline by the end of WW1. Now a university city and tourism hub for Devon and Cornwall.
10 June, Tuesday. 43km, 20C (25C max)
Out for a hunt for breakfast, settled on easy option of a Pret-a-manger. Back to our hotel via Exeter Castle (Rouge Mont Castle), not much left just wall and entrance. It was built in the northern corner of the town, Roman city walls starting in 1068 then an outer bailey added in the 12th century after it suffered a 3-month siege.
3 women were executed in the castle grounds 1682, the last recorded people to be executed for witchcraft.
Noel oiled up the bike chains and off we went around 9:15am. Dropped down to the Exeter Quay and then followed trail along River Exe before joining a canal path through Topsham and along the Exe estuary to the lovely seaside resort town of Exmouth. We had stayed in a home exchange at Topsham in 2019, ironically today biking right past the end of the same street... almost déjà vu but true!
Found our way to the beach which is lovely golden/red sand, still not quite beach weather but almost! Some beach volleyball happening, people strolling and many school kids doing beachy things, swimming with floats etc.
A cinnamon scroll there to sustain ourselves and up over the hill on road to get back on a path. Old railway trail then a path beside a live railway line right beside the sea. Passing a navy marine assault course and lodgings. On path most of the way until we got to the streets of Budleigh Salteron, a pretty seaside village with a stony beach.
Purchased Tesco supermarket sandwiches and sat on a beach side bench seat to eat them… when Caro’s sandwich is snatched out of her hand by a seagull!!! We had no warning of it swooping in over her shoulder, pecked her thumb and forefinger with no damage and off with the sandwich! Needless to say she hunched over to eat her second sandwich very carefully.
We walked up the coastal path a ways but no use going further as it was heading back towards Exmouth and beyond. The walking path is the Southwest Coast Path recently made popular due to the book and movie “The Salt Path”. The path is 1100km and is from Minehead in Somerset to Poole Harbour in Dorset.
Today we followed cycle route 2 which at times was on the Southwest coastal path, there are a few day walkers and spotted one chap with a large tramping pack that we had also seen in Exmouth. A lot of “senior” (as if we’re not!?) groups out and about today too.
From there it was on roads, at times very narrow ones. Went through and over, on board walks, the Otter Estuary Nature Reserve… no otters spotted though. It is the River Otter that feeds into the reserve. Up a hill on path and passing through the village of Otterton, a very pretty place with thatched roof houses. The village is described as an instructive example of local building from the 16th century onwards.
From there some very narrow, but surprisingly busy, lanes to wind our way up a hill at the top of which is Mutter’s Moor… there was certainly some muttering as we puffed our way up. After a “good on ya” from another couple of cyclists and then a chat with a couple of walkers we dropped down a 20% gradient (!!!!) hill. Stopped at a pseudo Castle with clock tower, 19th century cliff cottage and a WW2 pill box and viewed the tall red cliff coastline.
Short ride from there into the very busy Sidmouth where lots of people are strolling the pebble/stone beach. A bit of a struggle to get to our AirBnB as we were going against traffic on one-way streets and then coming to a river ford over the River Sid. But made it eventually, to be greeted by Tess the Spaniel (we had been pre-warned she would be the sole meet and greet).
Walked for dinner at the Volunteer Hotel, which is the first pub we come to and had delicious food which was smarter than normal pub food.
A walk down to the sea through the town which was now quiet. Watched some Morris Dancing on the promenade, fun to watch and a social group we think, then back to our house. We have not seen/met our host, just Tess!
Our warmest day for a while, getting down to shirt when going up hills. We could hear artillery fire at one point, presumably exercises as there are a few military bases in the area.
11 June, Wednesday. 42km, 22C (31C max)
We met our host Rebecca briefly this morning at breakfast along with another guest who is staying in the other room. Packed our bags but then walked along to a nearby supermarket for supplies of hot cross buns and banana’s.
9:30am departure through parkland beside the River Sid, or a tributary, then up the very steep 16% gradient Salcombe Hill… quite a lot of pushing! At the top there is a carpark for Salcombe National Trust property which has walkways. We parked the bikes and did the 30minutes return walk to the coast path and some coastal views. The views are a bit limited due to the gorse and blackberry although some great views to the north.
Once back riding we rode past a donkey sanctuary and a very large outdoor pig farm before dropping down to Branscombe, a National Trust village that was once self-sufficient with a bakery, forge, orchards and a water mill. It was known to be occupied between 2700 to 2000BC, and then from the 17th to 19th century it was a source of handmade lace.
The bakery was open so it would have been rude not to have something! A flapjack and a chocolate stout cake… both delicious!!
Followed by another long stretch of pushing the bikes up hill, again very narrow so at times we were very close to the hedge rows which are full of very vicious stinging nettle… not ideal! The roads to get in and out of Branscombe are very narrow and steep, it would tend to put you off living there we think.
The area is being used as a filming location that was being packed down, filming in and around the Beer quarry and caves area. Passed through village of Beer but didn’t drop right down to the sea as we already knew we had more hills looming without adding another one!
We dropped down into Seaton; we had been told by a chap we had chatted to that it is a bit rundown and indeed it was looking tired although improvement obviously happening. A stony beach, smaller stones than yesterday but no chance of sand in your shoes! An older sort of tourist place.
Followed a path through the Seaton Marshes and stopped for lunch at a café on the other side of the marshes. A small scenic tram line runs from Seaton out beside the Marshes and looked very popular.
From there were hills and more hills to the town of Axminster, no carpet spotted, then more hills to get out of there. A long continuous but not too steep climb followed by undulating up and down riding to arrive at our Newlands Holiday Park at Charmouth. We are booked in a lovely unit, very similar to a NZ motel unit. Dinner at the park restaurant which was a lovely meal and the park is very quiet mid-week, we imagine it gets very busy over weekends and peak summer.
After dinner we went for a walk up Stonebarrow Hill to get some coastal views, the hill is also a National Trust property. Quite a climb up from the campground and once again views limited due to the gorse and blackberry. However we walked south along the coastal path which gave better views north and over Charmouth. Ended up walking right down into Charmouth and then back through the town to get to the campground… a bigger walk than intended but Noel’s leg stood up to it, seems to be largely recovered but took a while.
It has been a fine summers day, could we have almost used the tent tonight? A little bit of handwashing is done as we have a good, heated towel rail in the unit.
12 June, Thursday. 50km, 17C (23C max)
A slow and reluctant start this morning as the predicted rain had arrived, heavily! Breakfast from the campground store and then left the park, with all its lovely facilities, at 10:15’ish.
Shortly after leaving the park we had to do a couple of hundred metres on an A road, far enough, and then off onto country lanes. Rolling hills and although it was clear when we left some heavy rain arrived for 10minutes, not cold though.
We arrived at Bridport about lunchtime, it was quite busy with traffic, and the footpaths were quite narrow, so although we did wonder about stopping, we carried on to West Bay. We passed through West Bay in 2019 en route to Topsham.
The area was used in 1942 by Canadian troops to practice landing raids on Dieppe, the first attempt was terrible, so they repeated the training exercise 11 days later with better success. Sadly, the actual Dieppe Raid was a disaster with the RAF losing 106 airplanes, the Navy lost 33 landing craft and a destroyer and within 10 hours 3623 men had been killed, wounded or captured… a 68% casualty rate for the Canadians.
The town of West Bay was also the fictional setting for the 2018 television series Broadchurch. We found lunch in a pub there, interestingly the manager an ex NZ’er who recognised our accent and stated, “you’re a long way from home”.
As we left we were on busier roads initially but soon returned to quiet country roads. After the area of Littlebredy, we had a steep climb. Littlebredy village is part of the Bridehead Estate that comprises 2047 acres, a huge 9-bedroom house and 32 buildings largely clustered within the village… some of looked like they needed some serious repair. Google research indicates that it was sold earlier in 2025, and likely hence why a lot of activity around the main house, tree maintenance, weed eating crew on the roadside and at least 5 white vans at the house. Builders working on another house also. Interesting when googling it reports it has an “extensive NZ style Dairy Enterprise”. The estimated guide price for sale was GBP 30 million!
Once up the very steep hill and another busy road, then a minor road but still some hills we arrived to the Hardy monument. Built in 1844 in memory of Vice Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy, flag captain of HMS Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar. Hardy was born in Dorset.
A mostly downhill ride into Dorchester, cycle route 2 taking us through the middle of a farmyard. It took us a while to find the entrance to our Dorchester AirBnB as it is off a back lane, but property faces a busy main street… appears to originally have been a shop or hairdresser.
Our lesson for today is that apart from all the hills being on quiet roads is bliss compared to being on busier roads.
Dinner found very close to our lodgings, at the “Blue Raddle Freehouse” and it was delicious!!
13 June, Friday. 57km, 22C (31C max)
A sunny and warm day, easily recognised due to every convertible car seemed to have their hoods down!
Grabbed breakfast at a café just down the street and on the road by 8:45am, Dorchester rush hour traffic again a little chaotic to be maneuvering through the congestion… too many cars, worse than Queenstown! Soon out of that and into nice flat country riding past some very big country houses. Rode through the edge of the town of Wool, which seemed pretty ordinary but claiming to be the gateway to the Jurassic Coast… it’s nowhere near the coast so that seemed a bit optimistic!!! Also, no sheep in sight even though it is called Wool.
Riding through a lot of Oak Forest and Grassland areas that are fenced off as training and live firing ranges for the army. There is a large army camp, Bovington, close to Wool.
Then over some heath lands, which was a bit undulating, some of it owned by the National Trust and the occasional sign saying “Don’t feed the pigs, they are regenerating the land”.
Arrived at Corfu Castle which is both the village and the Castle ruins above the village. A very busy place with tourists. After buying a bakery lunch and eating in the village square, we went into the castle area: some of which is being restored to safe structures.
In 1074 William the Conqueror exchanged a church in Gillingham for the hill the castle sits on and the land around it. The first stone was laid in 1086. It is believed that the area of Corfe has been occupied from 6000BC. King Edward the Martyr was murdered here in March 978 on the site of where the castle is. The Castle was besieged twice, 1643 and 1646 then destroyed by Parliament troops and left looking not much better than it does today. Lovely views from the top.
Leaving there we wound our way on mostly quiet roads, through a gravel track which was bit rough at the start, and out to the Sandbanks ferry crossing. There are a lot of cars and campers lining the last bit of road, people out walking on the Studland and Godlington Heath nature reserve with a few obviously camping in their vans for the weekend.
The Sandbanks ferry is a vehicular chain ferry which crosses the entrance to Poole Harbour, it takes less than 5 minutes to reach the other side but saved us 30km cycling! Poole looks a well to do settlement, huge houses lining the water, flash cars and a Rick Stein Restaurant… a bit of coin about the place it suggests. We biked without stopping and up and over a small hill to suddenly be on the Bournemouth Promenade.
The long beach looked spectacular on such a stunning day, a seemingly endless stretch of golden sand. The promenade wall is 16km long and there is a lot of people strolling, biking, sunbathing, swimming… a lot of skin on show.
The promenade is lined on the landward side with hundreds of beach huts of various designs and colours, some are 2 story but separate huts so double the rental… even one complex being triple level.
People sit outside them in their deck chairs etc with refreshments, they are small units with no electricity or facilities but may have a kitchen bench and cupboards along with a storage spot for your chairs/umbrellas etc. Strictly day use, a few being used today but it isn’t peak summer yet although a truly stunning day.
We left the beach via a steep roadway and found our hotel in the suburb of Boscombe, checked in and stored the bikes in the locked bar/function room for the night.
A walk this evening to the main area of Bournemouth and a pub meal… not the best pub meal by far but cheap!! That part of the town looking a bit rough, so we went back down to the pier with the “fun zone”, but it was all closed down for the evening. Many people were still wandering and some still swimming.
There are some cliff areas along the beach that are slipping, which is an obvious problem, also at least 3 large hotels that are closed and deteriorating… presuming cheap flights to Europe and possibly Covid has affected the tourist numbers and Bournemouth might be a fading star.
The evening sky has clouded up with the occasional rumble of thunder, it is meant to pass through tonight and clear tomorrow so here’s hoping.
14 June, Saturday. 33km, 22C (29C max)
In did rain overnight, and a bit cooler today. A relaxed start with a walk to the Boscombe area for breakfast, lots of café choices once we got to the main shopping area.
Departed from hotel around 10:30am and dropped down onto the promenade of Boscombe, a nice beach although quite windy today so people on the beach had their tent shelters erected. The sea looked less swimmable here with lots of protection groynes but there was 1 lifeguard patrolled area. The beach and beach huts are still popular.
Lifted away from the beach and heading for Christchurch, we could have ridden along further to Hengistbury Head Beach but would have had a brutal headwind to contend with coming back so decided not to.
Parked our bikes up at Christchurch Priory and had a walk around the inside, very solid with arches and columns. It’s history goes back to at least the 11th century and it is on the site of an earlier church dating back to 800AD. In the 13th century the nave aisles were vaulted and the church expanded.
A quick walk up the main street of town, quite busy so we left with the promising thought of lunch in the next town of Highcliffe. Winding around on paths and residential streets we by-passed one pub “The Distressed Ship”. As we got closer to Highcliffe there is lots of people parking cars and walking towards the centre of town, cars everywhere in queues, and then the street closed off as there is a food festival on the go. That wasn’t going to work for us with laden bikes so although still hungry, we changed direction and left the chaos behind.
Stopped at a lovely looking café on top of Blackberry Hill not long after, but it was closed, so down to New Milton where it was quiet and we found choices for food!
From there mostly quiet roads as we made our way towards Lymington, including briefly on a road through New Forest National Park. We couldn’t check into our lodgings until 4pm so we stopped at the “Lion and Lamb Freehouse” for a beer/cider to fill in ½ hr, ooh, the hardship.
Got to our accommodation, a room in a house with a couple of cereals and milk provided. Nice room in nice house. We walked down to Lymington township and quay stopping en-route for a delicious pub meal at the “Fishermans Rest”.
Saw the type of ferry we will be on tomorrow as it pulled into the Lymington pier. We walked back through the very cute old town and then part of the very pleasant looking new town as well.
15 June, Sunday. 47km, 22C (31C max)
Away from our accommodation at 9am and rode down to the ferry terminal, got on the 10am ferry we had already booked and arrived at Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight at 10:52am after crossing the Solent Strait.
The Isle of Wight has a very long history, lots of dinosaur fossils of a variety of species have and are still being found. These date to 110-125 million years ago, also artifacts found are attributed to the stone age (axes) and possibly up to 500,000 years old. Possibly Neanderthals also based on burial chambers from 6000 years ago, tools from Bronze and Iron ages, the Romans had been here with traces of residences although not forts, also the Vikings.
Latterly Queen Victoria had a favourite residence, her winter property called Osborne House which dates from 1845, and died on the island in 1901. Her love of the island led to it becoming a more fashionable holiday resort as people sought to follow her example. Victoria had a bathing ‘machine’ that was wheeled down to the sea where she could bathe without being visible to the public (great unwashed!).
The island also had several observation stations and transmission sites during WW2, and was heavily bombed but not invaded during the conflict.
As we left Yarmouth we biked through wetland area on path, a quick stop at a Tesco’s for some lunch supplies (and a fruitless search for some laundry sheets) then onto Freshwater Bay. This is the gateway to the needles headland, lovely white cliffs but also a stiff wind blowing in… so we rode up the road a little and lunched in a carpark out of the worst of the wind.
Riding undulating road following the coast before turning inland and visited the National Trust Mottistone Gardens and manor house. The Manor House, 1567, is not open to the public but the lovely gardens are. The whole house was remodeled in the 1920’s. We had a quick walk around the gardens and grabbed a pepsi at the café to sustain us as we still have 30km to go.
Passed through Brightstone village, which had some beautiful thatched roof houses, then weaving along country roads. Lots of maize, some more advanced than what we have seen on the mainland. Through the town of Ventor where you could see a line up of container ships out at sea.
Our last 5km of riding was on the “Red Squirrel Trail” from Wroxall to Shanklin following largely downhill ex railway line so that was wonderful, there has been a bit of climbing for the day. Arriving in Shanklin we had to climb back up a bit to get to our booked accommodation, a whole 2-storey house including full laundry, yay!
Shanklin is a lovely village/town right on the coast, tonight we just stock up on supplies for breakfast and laundry at a convenience store then have a Sunday roast meal at one of the pubs, bliss! Back home a load of washing done in hope it will dry on a rack.
A very scenic day with lots of up and down riding and a couple of significant uphills thrown in. We were lucky to have a tail wind most of the day. Stunning coastline and views. Many day cyclists, including an event as quite a few had matching jerseys and racing numbers.
16 June, Monday.
Sunny and warm day, less wind. Not too sure of our plans for the day, did another load of washing and put over drying rack in the sun with the hope it will dry for the day.
Decided to park the bikes for the day and get a bus pass instead and head for town of Cowes… it would be 50km return bike ride so even without luggage given the obvious hills an easy decision.
Bus stop just outside the door, so caught a 9:30am bus and purchased a 24-hour, unlimited travel pass from the friendly and helpful driver. The bus wound its way through Ventnor and Wroxall, both of which we biked through little parts of yesterday. Then through the very cute village of Godshill and into Newport where we change buses and onward to West Cowes. A great way to sight see with a vantage point of the front seats on top deck of a double decker bus… no puffing either!!
A 1.25hr bus journey, easy, including passing a donkey sanctuary on the way. West Cowes is a pretty town, quite touristy but not overly busy at that time of the morning. A few school groups around, both primary and secondary, doing some tidal measuring and composition studies obviously.
We walked past the Royal Yacht Squadron, which according to Google is “the most prestigious and exclusive yacht club in the UK”. Walked down the main shopping street, lots of gift shops selling sea and yachting stuff, clothing and tat. There is a Cowes Regatta week which first started in 1826 and happens every August, very famous in yachting circles apparently.
Having prowled the main street we got the floating bridge ferry, another chain ferry, for the 2-minute trip to East Cowes. There was not much happening in East Cowes although we stopped at the Waitrose supermarket that was handy.
Walked up residential streets to the entrance of Osborne House, Queen Victoria residence, where there are several buses of tourists plus several school groups milling around. We didn’t go in as a high entrance fee and couldn’t see too much from the outside, although it must be impressive. There is a few impressive houses in the surrounding area too.
Caught a bus outside the gate which took us back to Newport, then changed buses before getting off in the village of Godshill. A very cute village with lots of thatched roof cottages and buildings. We had a late lunch at a café and since it was almost their closing time, and they are closed tomorrow, they were selling their cakes at a large discount… so could we resist, no!!! A bargain never missed, bonus yum!
We walked up through the village passing several thatched cottages to the church located on the hill, circa 1350. Back onto a bus and dropped off in Shanklin almost at our door. After a cuppa and recovery we went exploring. Down to the Shanklin esplanade following a walking path through the gardens, then 5km along the beach front promenade to the town of Sandown. We had expected to have to climb up to the cliff path so a pleasant flat walk was a bonus.
Caught a bus back to Shanklin and got off in town, thinking we would cut across the park opposite our house but as we got closer we could see flashing lights outside our abode, a fire engine had passed our bus just before it got to Shanklin. As we got closer there were 2-3 firetrucks and several police cars and ambulances. A cordon tape, including isolating our place and surrounding houses, was being put up and all looked a bit serious. So we walked the other direction into the village to find some dinner at a pub, at the same time hearing helicopters hovering over the area?
1.5 hours later we went back to ask and be escorted through the cordon and nearly to our door by a policewoman. News reports later in the evening confirmed it was a bus vs car collision with one fatality, car driver medical reason causing the collision but the huge response because a bus was involved.
When we were on the bus through Newport earlier this arvo, we noticed a large area being set up for some sort of event, it is the Isle of Wight Festival in a couple of days’ time. It must be a huge event, names we recognise in the advertising include Sting, Justin Timberlake, The Corrs, The Script, Alison Moyet, Texas and many more. We can only imagine the traffic chaos this will cause with 55000 festival goers expected. Lucky with our timing as we had no idea, could easily have stumbled onto the island and not been able to find accommodation or much else!
17 June, Tuesday. 37km, 25C (33C max)
Departed Shanklin 9:45am after packing and wound around the edges of Shanklin to drop down onto the esplanade path that we had walked last night before weaving amongst the walkers to get to Sandown.
From there it was road riding, quite busy with traffic, to get to our first stop of Bembridge Windmill. A National Trust site of a historic mill established for grain grinding to produce flour, bran and cattle feed. Built in the early 1700’s it had a lovely view over an airfield and back towards Sandown. An interesting look through the mill, with lots of explanatory panels and friendly staff.
Then skirted around the town of St Helens to follow road to Nettlestone, before dropping down to Seaview. A lovely town and from there followed beach side path and road right into Ryde. The tide was way out on the long Appley and Ryde beach although still a few people at their beach huts and on beach seating. Rode past the Puckpool Battery which was built in 1863 as a defensive structure against the perceived French invasion. The battery was armed during WW1 and then used in WW2 as a training site for the fleet air arm.
As we arrived 1:15pm and our ferry isn’t due to go until 5pm we rode out on Ryde pier and asked if we could go on an earlier ferry… yes, no problem just line up now. It was a fast ferry with a 20-minute crossing to arrive in Portsmouth just after 2pm.
Spare time available so we had a leisurely ride along the seaside bike paths to the area of South Sea, a beautiful day for doing so. Lots and lots of people both on the beach and strolling. 2 different people passing by stopped to talk about our/their bikepacking experiences. Lunched on the foreshore walkway, after a quick stop at Co-op supermarket then slowly biked back to the large ferry terminal. Had a drink at a nearby pub to fill in a bit of time.
Had to line up with cars, 1 pannier each put through scanner (like a random check) and then directed to go to front of queue… VIP treatment as we were directed from one person to the next! Onto the vehicle deck first, then our bikes were a bit awkward going into front wheel bike rack due to their somewhat ungainly balance with only 1 pannier… as we took one each only thinking our room would be small. We left 3 crew members securing them with bungies in all sorts of ways! Hopefully our front wheel rims are still straight tomorrow!!!
We found our room, middle of floor 8 but not all floors have rooms! We had dinner in their restaurant which wasn’t too bad and then just sat in lounge that had a bit of a view. Bedtime at 10pm as we have to be at breakfast by 5am and ready to disembark shortly after.
An absolutely
stunning day made it easy to fill in our time. Got a bit sunburnt even! Caro
took a couple of Sealegs tablets and hopefully we both get some sleep if a
smooth crossing.
