14 September Monday: Day 21
Stats: Collingwood to Takaka:
40kms 15kph.
Left Collingwood with rain
threatening. A rolling road through dairy land mainly but there were some sheep
farms... lots of calves and lambs everywhere.
Some beautiful views of Golden Bay but the rain in the hills spurred us on. 5 kms before Takaka is the turn off to Te Waikoropupu Springs which is the largest freshwater springs in NZ, the largest cold water springs in the southern hemisphere, and some of the clearest water ever measured. The springs feed the Te Waikoropupu River. There was a walkway around the springs which we did, meeting a Maori chap with a guitar who was singing, setting quite a surreal atmosphere. The toilets however were disgusting, the worst on this trip …not such a great advertisement…maybe just got there on a bad day?? There is a hydro scheme a further 4 kms away on a different branch of the same road that had been recommended to us as very scenic, but that was a pedal too far on a cold day!
Arrived in Takaka at lunchtime and lunched at a very busy café. Found the YHA hostel and checked in by phone, with someone turning up after 2.30pm to sort us out properly. There is a few others staying (young overseas people), long term. The reason for a reasonably short/early day is because tomorrow is a biggie as far as elevation change!
Checked in and with a few hours
to spare we headed off to the beaches, 8km plus round trip away. Turned back
after a couple of kms though because it looked like rain. So back to the
hostel, showered and walked down the street. That didn’t take too long as
there’s not too much there, a few Yaks and Yeti type shops, most shops were
shut anyway. The town was bustling at lunchtime but very quiet on a quite cold afternoon.
After a supermarket shop, we
cooked dinner at the hostel using up our Heaphy leftovers. Passed the evening
by doing a jigsaw.
Odd happening of the day was
finding a pole with a red button and a sign saying “cyclists push this button”…it
must’ve tripped a warning light at the other end for motorists as it was a
narrow stretch of road…. but it did raise a smile (never touch the red button!)
The forecast is not great for the
next couple of days, but thinking we’ll leave tomorrow as it’s too cold to
enjoy the lovely Golden Bay beaches anyway!!
15 September Tuesday: Day 22
Stats: Takaka to Kaiteriteri: 52
kms: 13kph
The forecast is for rain at
Takaka by 10am and rain at Kaiteriteri by 2pm. We cooked breakfast (porridge
and fruit), packed up and left by 8.45am.
The first 20 kms was reasonably
flat through mainly dairy country but some sheep farms too. Stopped at
Uruwhenua reserve for snacks then through Upper Takaka, which I think is as far
west as I’d ever been previously.
Then up and up and up, constant
zig-zagging up to the 791m summit. 22kms took us about 2 hours. We could see
the rain coming behind us, we even had a little bit of a tail wind at
times…every bit helps!! Got a few encouraging toots on the way up …even from a
police car so that was nice too.
We stopped just after the top and put more clothes on as we’d stripped off on the way up and it was getting colder and it was starting to rain. Very enjoyable but cold going down the hill.
3/4 ‘s of the way down we get to
a roadworks sign asking cyclists to compulsorily stop and phone an 0800 number for a
shuttle?...odd we thought, but that’s what we did! And it worked!! A shuttle from the other end of the
roadworks is coming up to carry us and our bikes through the traffic light
controlled roadworks…health and safety regulations through a tricky patch of roadworks that has all traffic controlled. There was heavy rain as we were waiting
for the shuttle but luckily the roadworks man at our end let us share his
shelter. The shuttle arrived and took us 3-4 kms through the roadworks. We were
the drivers first and maybe only passengers for the day, she reads a lot to
fill in the time.... now there's a job for you! Yay…still a bit of light rain and 7kms to Kaiteriteri.
Along the way to Kaiteriteri we came across and were able to
use the Great Tasman Taste Trail, which ran beside the road.
Arrived at Kaiteriteri about 2pm
and booked into a lodge/backpackers for 2 nights. We’ve got an ensuite so that
is a bonus!! We’re a bit wet but not soaked through. By the time we’d showered
it was raining heavily but it stopped again later on.
Went for a walk. The beach is
beautiful and mostly deserted, but it is quite a cold day. A takeaway burger bar is
the only option for tonight, seems like everyone’s summer season is cranking up
from this coming weekend, until then it’s slim pickings obviously.
We’ve already got our accommodation booked for the next 3 nights so it’s a slow trip to Nelson. This is deliberate so we manage to schedule in a (weekend only) ferry crossing. The forecast isn’t looking great for the next few days but Central Otago is meant to get high winds and snow and the Haast road has been shut with slips so we’re not too badly off where we are.
16 September Wednesday: Day 23
Stats: Kaiteriteri to Marahau, and
back: 23km: 12kph
There is fresh snow on the
mountains after the cold wind and rain of yesterday.
A day (3/4s anyway) of exploring.
After our porridge we biked to the Split Apple walking track 4 km’s away or so
the sign said. A mainly uphill ride. As we were reading the sign at the start
of the 15 minute track a local lady kindly offered for us to park our bikes in
her yard so that’s what we did.
Walked onto Split Apple beach,
luckily the tide was going out. A beautiful spot to sit and contemplate, a few
others about too.
Uphill back to our bikes then back to the main road. Went around an estuary and stopped for a cuppa at Marahau. Then biked to the start of the Abel Tasman track. A few vehicles parked up, the track must be pretty quiet. Lots of businesses along that strip, shuttles, kayaks, accommodation and food all shut down for now.
Biked back to our lodge. Finished
off last nights chips. Then went for a walk to Breaker bay, (close by) and up
to a pa site and along the beach to Little Kaiteriteri. Lovely scenery but a
cold wind even though the sun is shining. Burgers for dinner again.
17 September Thursday: Day 24
Stats: Kaiteriteri to Motueka:
33kms: 12kph
A cruisy day. Left by 9.45am.
There were carpet layers lifting and laying new carpet in the hallway and they
were keen to gain access to our room. On the bonus side I got some carpet
offcuts to strap to and cushion my back bike bag as it has been rubbing and
making a hole in the outer material,
ideal and timely repair!
With time to fill we took the
bike park/big easy bike track out of Kaiteriteri, a winding, up and down
track through bush. It was classed as an “easy” in the large bike park located there. Repeated a
short section that we did the other day, then turned towards Riwaka, past
orchards.
Noel had a café lined up for morning tea, the Ginger Dynamite which was serving out of a container and had a 2nd container for indoor seating furnished up like a late 70’s lounge, nice.
Wound past orchards of apples,
kiwifruit and grapes, I think. Along the estuary shoreline of Motueka. Lots of
people walking and biking. Motueka has a sand spit that is home to lots of sea
birds.
Followed the shoreline past some
flash houses, then veered off and popped out on to the main road at the eastern
end of town. Constant traffic on the main road which runs right through the
centre of town. Decided we would ask if we could leave our bikes at the Top 10
campground as we were too early to check in, but they checked us in anyway
which was nice.
Walked the main street for lunch.
Bought a few groceries and some tape for my carpet repair.
After a cuppa at our unit we went
for a ride further along the estuary to the Motueka port, which is now a
Talley’s base. Looped back the other side of the tidal waterways. There is lots
of trails available to use, with farmland up to the boundary of the town.
Dinner out at a burger place that specializes in donuts during the day…the donuts are “world famous in Motueka” and listed no 3 in things to do in this town. So morning tea tomorrow maybe??? Plus their burgers were delicious.
18 September Friday :Day 25
Stats: Motueka to Mapua: 30kms
11.5 kph.
It rained last night, started
10pm and stopped and cleared 10 am this morning just as forecast. There is a bit
of fresh snow on the tops again and a cold wind.
Delayed leaving the campground
until 10am hoping to avoid the rain. First stop was 2 minutes into the ride for
a world famous donut, the ones we spotted last night. Yum, a very decedent
morning tea!!
We rode the back streets and
paths some of which we were on yesterday to get to the western end of the town, thus avoiding the busy main street.
Next stop was Toad Hall Café/shop, the food looked stunning but we couldn’t
possibly eat more so soon.
Continued following the Tasman
Great Taste trail, past orchards through the lower Moutere area then up over a
hill. A rural area with lifestyle blocks and lots of new housing, lovely views
all directions. The track headed back down to the coast and the district of
Tasman. Stopped at a weaving shop and the storeowner gave us a demonstration of
loom weaving…looked complicated!!
Stopped at the Jester Café, which was an interesting mix of stuff. A “old woman in a shoe” house for overnight accommodation. A farm playground with statues of tigers, penguins and wooden elephants. Compostable toilets servicing the café. A stream running through the property had 10-12 eels milling around waiting to be fed and of course you could buy pellets to do just that, they reached half out of the water when they saw someone coming, just a little scary!! Also nice scones and muffins to keep us on track.
Continued on past Ruby Bay to Mapua. After a walk around the wharf area, which was busyish, we went and found our B&B which wasn’t too far away. It’s a lovely unit incorporated into the owners house.
This afternoon we booked a
restaurant for dinner, being Friday night the township gets quite busy. Walked
around the estuary, the tide was completely out. A very cold wind blowing
through.
Dinner tonight at a Mexican
restaurant/brewery….great beer and food.
19 September Saturday: Day 26
Stats: Mapua to Nelson: 33km: 13
kph
Up, breakfasted and ready to go
by 9.30am. The first ferry crossing to Rabbit Island, a regional park, was
10am. The whole reason for dawdling the last few days was to catch this ferry,
which was only running on the weekends for the winter season.
It’s a beautiful day and that cold wind has dropped. Crossed on the ferry (a 5 minute ride) with 8 other bikers, we were the only 1 way tickets I think. The ferry is the official link on the Nelson Great Taste cycle trail, although an alternative follows roads.
Had to wear masks for the ferry ..public transport, as per regulations for Covid level 2 (but as this is the first public transport since trip started, all new for us. The Farewell Spit tour was not public transport as such.... regulations splitting hairs at times!)
Followed a track (there were lots
of them) around the edge of the island, to the bridge/laneway joining the
island to the mainland. Continued on the track along the edge of the Waimea inlet estuary and past apple orchards.
Followed the edge of the Richmond area estuary, a lovely track that gets lots
of use. Nothing to taste though and we’re starting to get hungry!!. Got to the
20km mark and a T intersection, Richmond or Nelson?
We opted for Nelson and took an underpass under the very busy main road …missed the first one though, finding the signage a bit ambiguous. Thinking the trail managers are locals, and they know where to go. (Noel actually sent in some feedback on the trail signage in this case, got a lukewarm email response). We got onto a different trail, the old Nelson railway line. Veered off from that to find a lovely café beside the Stoke tennis courts.
After lunch rain was threatening.
We opted to stay on the inland route into Nelson. Again the signage seems to be
lacking a bit. We were sort of still following the old railway line. At one
stage Noel shot off down a narrow underpass and pushed his bike up steps on the
other side …wrong way!!
Arrived into the Nelson city
centre and with rain still threatening we found our motel. Lucky we’d booked
because the motels mostly had ”no vacancy” signs out. Saturday night and weekend visitors rather than special events. After a cuppa and a
shower we were revived.
Went for a walk up the main
street. Up church hill and a look in the Nelson Cathedral. Then around a few
streets, including the oldest most complete street in NZ, established 1860’s. There
were 2nd hand shops about but nothing open by the time we got there,
(probably just as well, we haven’t got room to buy stuff anyway!!). To the
supermarket and then a quick, wetting walk back to the motel.
Dinner at the nearby Workshop
Brewery, nice!!
20 September Sunday: Day 27
Stats: Nelson to Havelock: 74
kms: 17kph.
A spectacular blue sky day. Left
at 9am this morning, keen to get going as it will be a longish day.
We were on bike trail for the
first 5-6 kms. The tracks are very good. Then continued on road past farmland and lifestyle
housing.
Then up and over the Whangamoa's, the first a 466m asl climb to the Whangamoa Saddle. A long winding climb, the gradient wasn’t too steep. We were passed by lots of motorbikes and classic cars; MG, Morgan, Bentley, Lotus, Porsche etc obviously out for a Sunday drive. On our way down that hill we stopped and lunched at a Forestry reserve. Continued down and up the steeper, newly configured road going over Rai Saddle at 240m asl. It was getting hot!!
Wound our way down, coming out
into the Rai Valley, a dairy area. Actually biked right past an open café (unusual for us!), just
not hungry. Met another (the first)
“real” loaded up cyclist as we were going down the last hill. He may have been
doing the Cycle Aotearoa trail as he was hunched over his phone and didn’t see
us until we yelled a greeting. If he was then he had missed a turn off!? Lots
of cars coming towards us, Fords and big American cars…a club run somewhere??
Stopped at Pelorus bridge, a big
DOC area of walks and campground. And they had a café …now that was perfect!!
It was a very busy place. Went for a 30 minute walk through bush and over a
swing bridge. It was at the confluence of the Rai River and Pelorus River.
Continued on a lovely, flattish ride to Havelock. passing Canvas Town which is a small, tidy looking town, just off the main road, a lot of motorbikes sitting outside the pub as there was in Rai too. Early spring sunny Sunday bringing everyone out with their toys!
Got to Havelock at about 4pm,
staying at a lovely motel (Havelock motels and Motor lodge). Got our laundry
done with the assistance of a really helpful proprietor and a soak in a cedar
hot tub which was lovely.
Dinner at the “Mussel Pot”.
Havelock is the “green mussel capital of
the world”, it’s a huge industry. They gather Spat, a lot from 90 mile beach
and then grow them on strings. They are amazing creatures, each one filters
about 300 litres of water a day to feed. Anyway yummy to eat too, we sampled
steamed, grilled, smoked, marinated and battered... all good!!
It’s quite a busy town.
21 September Monday: Day 28
Stats: Havelock to Picton 36kms:
14kph
This morning we packed up, left
our bikes at the motel and went for a walk to find breakfast. Mission
accomplished, then a walk past the marina, lots of different boats of all
shapes, sizes, ages. Quite a few people lined up for tours …there’s a postal
boat/mail delivery tour on certain days and also mussel farm and sound tours.
We left, taking the scenic route
between Havelock and Picton. Wound our way up a hill to a lookout, lovely views.
There’s a cycle track, not complete yet, but established in some sections along this route, but
seeing the start of it was steep and rutted we stuck to the road, which was not
very busy.
We hugged the coastline, at Mahakipawa Arm there were quite a few houses
tucked away. Then away from the coast through Linkwater, a dairy area, and back
to the coast and Grove Arm which was another settlement.
Stopped at a DOC picnic spot for a
cuppa, Anakiwa was on the opposite side of the water . We were entertained by a
duck with her 8 ducklings, she was teaching them that humans have food that
they might like to share, they were right at our feet.
Then the road was up and windy, some lovely settlements, I’m guessing mostly holiday homes. Momorangi Bay had a DOC campground on the beach, Ngakuta Bay was quite big. Just took our time and ended up watching log loading at Picton Port for a few minutes then further on car/truck loading on both the Blue Bridge and the Interisland ferries.
Got to the Yacht Club hotel at
2.30 or so. Quite flash for us but they will store our surplus luggage while we
do the Queen Charlotte, and it must’ve been a bargain price too!!! Showered and
sorted, then went for a walk, quite a
cold wind. Got a couple of things from the supermarket. Back to the hotel to
sort what we need to take and what we can leave behind on the next expedition.
Dinner at The Whistling Pig Pub,
a good meal and friendly service too.
