1 September Tuesday: Day 8
Stats: Franz Josef township to Whataroa: 42 kms 16kph
After rain last night and just maybe some fresh snow we woke
to quite a nice day. Cooked breakfast in a huge well equipped kitchen. Left at
9.15 am, the 70mm’s of predicted rain for today had either passed thru early or
not eventuated.
A lovely ride with up’s and down’s past Lake Mapourika and Lake Wahapo where we stopped for snacks. We continued on through farmland. Crossed a sweeping bridge over the Wahapo river and suddenly the day changed, a head wind started up and very dark thunder like clouds appeared to the west …eek…!!! We biked into the head wind with the rain getting closer. At one point we had a cross wind that nearly put me off the road and there was definitely lightning and thunder getting closer to us.
Arrived at the Whataroa store with the first few drops of rain, but just in time, as the wind increased and there was a huge bolt of lightning and a huge thunder clap ,and hail. We sat in the unheated, very sparse, not overly friendly store/café but it did have indoor tables. Spent some time eating a pie , then a hot drink, then some loaf, watching the pouring rain and gale force wind for 2 hours. Also watched an electricity work crew that was working opposite the store, pack up and leave for the day. Weighing up our options we decided it would be best to stay put for the night even though it was only lunchtime. The motel across the road was closed with a phone number on the door.... but no-one was answering. Then a couple of calls to Hari Hari to check what accommodation was there, again no answers. Turns out the phone lines are probably out because of the lightning.
The store was shutting at 2.30pm …hmm a dilemma with no
phone contact anywhere. Decided to bike on, but going outside the weather was
horrendous, very windy, artic temperatures and still very wet ….I was
instantly frozen! I went to check the motel again, closed, and Noel went the other direction to check an
old hotel that had been turned into a backpackers, closed. He asked at a garage
(only other business open in Whataroa), if there were any accommodation
options. Luckily the garage owner pointed out an Airbnb about 100 m down the road and said if
we didn’t have any luck there come back and he’d find us something.
So we bought eggs and bread from the store that was about to
close and biked to the Airbnb and knocked on the door. A startled lady,
Heather, answered the door and yes her rental was available and clean and
perfect. So hunkered down for the afternoon/evening and so very grateful to have a
warm place to stay!! As the rain stopped and the cloud cleared later in the
afternoon we could see fresh snow on the mountains ahead of us tomorrow.
The storm has swept up the South Island bringing snow (20cms
at Coronet) to Queenstown and the central South Island. Hopefully it has passed
through, the forecast is fine for the next 2 days , fingers crossed!!!
2 September Wednesday: Day 9
Stats: Whataroa to Ross: 79kms:17kph
Woke to a fine, no wind, kind of day. After eggs and toast we left. A beautiful morning , we rode through Whataroa, there’s not much to it, 2 motels probably both shut, one of which is for sale . There was a B and B a bit further on but who knew?? (it could have been suitable for us, if we had known and could have forced our way through the weather to make it)
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| What a difference over night makes, a stunning day near Whataroa after the storm has passed |
Wound our way around the Whataroa River flats of farmland. Then a climb up Mt Hercules which was a little harder as there was road works with traffic lights, luckily not too busy traffic wise. Interestingly the number of people who have expressed dismay, both before and after our trip, that we are going to/have cycle Mt Hercules is significant :).
Arrived in Hari Hari at 11.30 am, which had meant to be
yesterdays destination. A tidy, cared for town. Morning tea/lunch at the
café/store there, much more selection than yesterday. Talked to a Centre Bush
couple that were travelling through, reminding us of how small NZ is.
Continued on through dairy country to Lake Ianthe where we stopped for a cuppa.
Then through bush up and down, up and down and up and down getting to Ross
about 3.15pm. Saturday and had an ice cream to contemplate our options... 28 kms to
Hokitika, the pub was the only place in Ross that was doing evening meals, the
Ross Top 10 campground was on the coast
so 4-5 kms away.
So asked the pub, The Empire Hotel established early 1900’s, about accommodation
and yes they have rooms, yay. So quite a nice room with ensuite and continental
breakfast included, bonus. The upstairs was undergoing refurbishment and from
the outside the whole of one side seemed to have boarded up windows. A couple
of truckies were also staying the night.
After a cuppa and a shower we had a walk around the lake, a filled in quarry, then back to the pub for dinner, chowder, burgers and chips; not a lot of choice but a very authentic atmosphere! It’s a nice room we're in but being above the kitchen there is a lingering grease smell, not quite so pleasant.
Another day done, I’ve (Caro) got a Doctors tele consult tomorrow,
should be interesting.
We are seeing lots of bird life, lots of Keruru, including 4
in one tree in Hari Hari, also Kingfisher and Weka (live and roadkill dead).
3 September Thursday: Day 10
Stats: Ross to
Greymouth:75kms 17kph
Not such a great sleep for either of us, though not sure why?
We had toast and jam which was supplied and were away by 8.30 am.
Found our way onto the West Coast Wilderness trail, straight
and flat following parallel to the coastline. A bit of farmland in between a
lot of gorse. A blue sky day but a cool, nearly frosty start.
When we hit the main road we followed it for a couple of kms
then turned into Lake Manhinapua. A stunning sight with snow clad mountains in
the background.
I was waiting for a scheduled call from my Dr regarding some blood test results but it didn’t ring through, not enough signal apparently so once back on the main road I re-scheduled for 45 minutes later and took it beside the road.
We then veered back onto the Wilderness trail again and
arrived in Hokitika by 11.30am. After some obligatory photos by the driftwood
sign we lunched at a main street café.
Headed north via the back streets of Hokitika for as far as we could before coming back to the main road. It was the busiest bit of road that we had struck the whole trip, logging trucks, milk tankers, concrete trucks and loads of cars. Some of the traffic turned off towards Arthurs Pass at Kumara junction. We got back on the Wilderness trail at the bridge crossing over the Taramakau river.
Stopped for a snack and a track maintenance man stopped and
talked to us, even gave us his phone number if we needed a bed for the night.
He was a talker, his stash of gold, his wife leaving him etc. etc. His name was Guy Wallace, turns out
he was a key witness in the Ben Smart/Olivia Hope murder trial and a bit of a
dodgy character himself. Anyway we
didn’t take him up on his offer!
The track was lovely as it wasn’t right beside the road, it
wound it’s way thru native plantings then followed the coast right to the Grey
River. A stunning warm, dry, no wind day... how lucky are we??
Arrived in Greymouth at about 3.30pm, rode out to the river
mouth then back around the harbour.
Found our way to a backpackers that we had in mind. Perfect; a double
room with shared bathroom, maybe 5 or 6 others (young people) staying, all from
overseas I think.
A short walk to the supermarket for breakfast supplies and did some laundry. Couldn’t spa as it was closed because of Covid. A 100m walk to a pub recommended by the backpackers manager, excellent! Tonight we’ll drift off to the pounding sea….hopefully it’s soothing, sounds a tad rough and windy!?
Seeing lots of Keruru which is great. And not too many aches
and pains!!
4 September Friday: Day 11
Stats: Greymouth to Punakaiki: 49km 15kph
Woke to a grey, cloudy day and there was a skiff of rain as
we were packing the bikes. We left before 9am with no breakfast so we could get
to a bike shop (already booked in) to get Noel’s bike serviced and a new tyre,
(planned replacement, no emergency!).
So with time to fill we had a wander around Greymouth, and
breakfast at a café. Quite cold for wandering!! At the bike shop we bought a
brighter rechargeable front light for Noel as well.
Left Greymouth at 11.30am or so and headed north. Over the
Grey River and through Runanga which is quite a big settlement, on through
farmland and onto the beach at Rapahoe Bay. We then followed the coast road up and
down, absolutely stunning!!!!
A cloudy day but no wind and not much traffic. Stunning bays, beaches and rocky sea outcrops.
Lunched at Barrytown at a lovely pub, which was a welcome
and much needed stop.
Continued to
Punakaiki, again ups and downs, not too drastic but tiring enough. Stopped at
the Pancake Rocks and walked the walkway, a few people about, (there was about
7 cars in the carpark), but certainly a lot quieter than our last visit there.
The shops at the carpark were looking a bit sad, some shut and others with bored
sales staff, all on shortened hours. The tide was half way out but the rocks
are spectacular regardless!!
A km on to the BBH hostel on Punakaiki beach. We have our own room with shared bathroom same as last night but tonight we are it as far as guests!! Except for one ensuite cabin that is occupied but separate.
After a cuppa and shower we walked north along the beach
(tides out) as far as we could where a river comes out. There’s a big
shoe-like rock raising up. It was getting dark and a band of rain clouds means
we didn’t get a famed sunset.
Back to our accommodation via the tavern for dinner. The
tavern was quite busy, not sure where everyone came from, but fast, friendly
and efficient service. Great fish and chips!! Then a 4 minute walk back to the
hostel.
A completely awesome day. Not sure what tomorrow will bring,
the forecast is for heavy rain and strong winds for the next 2 days and we’re
56 kms from Westport, so tricky!!! It’s a wait and see what tomorrow brings.
Noel has rebooked the Heaphy track hut's for Wed/Thurs nights (Thurs/Fri was full), so we’re
committed, though could possibly do Fri/Sat.
Today we saw a Weka on Greymouth hostel lawn, one crossing
the road and some squashed ones on the road, Water buffalo and Alpaca, no Penguins or Petrels.
Saw Winston Peter’s electoral campaign bus and got a very
friendly wave from the driver, the only bus there was to see on the whole West Coast!
5 September Saturday: Day 12
Stats: Punakaiki to Westport: 57 kms 14.2kph
In the words of The Clash, "should I stay or should I go?" It’s wet and was quite stormy during the night. The forecast is for very wet
for the next 2 days, windier on Sunday, although that depends which forecast
one reads.
Walked to the tavern for breakfast, still raining but
clearing a little, quite warm and no wind.
We decided to go, Punakaiki was meant to be clearing a bit by
10.30am, Westport was meant to be wet all day…very wet from 4 pm onwards. The
other motivator was there wasn’t really a store to buy cooking food from, the
café/store at the rocks might be open today but…??
So we left about 9.45am. The first couple of kms it was
light misty rain, then it got really heavy for about an hour or so. Even though
the coastline was still stunning it was too wet to stop, no photo’s with the
phone tucked away in a plastic bag. Again our shoes were sloshing with water!!
As we left the coast we climbed, and climbed and climbed,
any downhill bits were resented because immediately there was more uphill
again. Luckily the rain had stopped and but it was misty, low cloud weather.
The hilltops seemed quite squishy and wet-land.
We came around a corner at our 30km mark to a very welcome
“café” sign and just like that we were in Charlestown. Dripped our way in for a
cup of tea, pies and cakes. The café is
part of a cave rafting business which was why it was still open. It did have a
few customers while we were there... though for coffee not caving.
Left there to go uphill again, past Mitchell’s gully a gold
mining site of the 1860’s. More uphill then finally some flat and gradual
downhill to Westport.
The first thing that hit us about Westport was the smell of the coal fires. We located and booked for 2 nights into the YHA, a lovely two story residence from the 1860’s. It was about 3 pm, by 4pm it was pouring again. The hostel has quite a few permanent residents with separate units at the back. It will be these residents paying the bills to keep it going as there is not many travellers about. Out for dinner at a close by pub, still raining.
Not many photo's for today... just too wet to get camera out, focus and shoot!
A quiet day tomorrow, our first full day off, which will be
very welcome!!
Decided Noel and I work in opposite ways…the hare and
tortoise scenario maybe?? Noel bikes slower in the mornings, especially up hills, and I’m faster then in the afternoon we seen to swap roles and I’m the slower one… usually
the hungrier one as well!!
Anyway it’s good to be this far. Today from leaving the
coast to Westport was an arduous day, one I don’t want to repeat on a bike!!
Saw Weka, some alive some dead, and a weasel run across the
road so that was it for exotic things.
