Peaking too soon... or too late?

Saturday, June 29: Last of the summer wine (whine?)...

Meltham - Buxton, 63 km

Wet this morning, but no wind so not too bad. A visit to the local Co-Op supermarket got us breakfast of instant porridge and bananas, but didn't take up the option of Toffee Yoghurt!!... so along with last nights left over pizza we were fortified for the day hopefully.

The apartment owner came over at 9am to unlock our bikes from the garage and with his well wishes we set off... up, and up and up. Following the climb it was a drop down to Holmforth which looked like a nice village with lots of cafes and bakeries... but too soon for our elevenses so we carried on with our upward trajectory. Some pushing involved.

Holmforth was the major filming location for the iconic British series Last of the Summer Wine... we could almost hear Compo saying "Aeh Up... wot are those two up to then?...". And tempted though we were to sit on a stone fence and admire the view we kept moving.

Raining lightly off and on a bit but quite warm so not really an issue. Noel got a puncture, back tyre just to make it a bit more challenging, close to the top of the hill... Caro ahead and hadn't realised so waited until he appeared half carrying his bike up to avoid any rim damage. The replacement tube fitted and we were on our way again.

Across the tops, then down and over the dam on the Winscar Reservoir, carefully crossed over the A628 which was a busy arterial road. When looking at the map it is obvious that todays ride is a bit like threading the needle as we pass between a couple of major UK cities of Manchester and Sheffield without really leaving the countryside.

Once over the A road it was following some cross-country tracks, down through a gully and back up to again carefully cross the road to continue on the off road track high above the road before descending steeply to once again cross the busy road. Getting a few looks from some MTBers on this section that were thinking they were hard-core in the wilderness until we came cruising along on our fully laden bikes. The rain had cleared away by this stage so a bonus.

Joined up with a lovely ex railway line cycle/walking path (unpaved) beside a series of reservoirs leading down to the area of Hadfield. From there we wound our way out of the township area and onto the next lot of hills. Via farmland scenery before a quick drop into and up out of New Mills. Up and around the side of a hill, dropped down to a canal but immediately lifted up again... we debated if we could follow the canal but it wasn't clearly marked and our GPS was insisting on "go up".

So over a bump (a pretty big hill in other words) to drop onto the edge of the village of Whaley Bridge. We had tried to get accommodation here but there was nothing available, once we passed through we realised there was a festival on so hence why we couldn't find anything. It would have been nice to stop about there!

Up the next hill, stopped for a cuppa on the side of the road and once we started Caro had a front tyre puncture (small fragment of glass, probably picked up off side of road coming through town). So the 2nd replacement tube fitted for the day... down to one spare, and fingers crossed!

Once our next lot of climbing over it was a very steep descent into the town of Buxton. Buxton is branded the highest market town in the UK... and it feels like it... and located on the edge of the Peak District National Park, but in Derbyshire.

Buxton is thought to have had human settlement for 6000 years! First Stone Age, then Roman settlement from around 75 AD to 410 AD enticed due to the existence of a thermal spring here. It is still reknowned for its water (fresh) with out of towner's coming to fill containers.

The spring was dedicated to St Anne in 1382 and a "Spa Town" in the style of Bath was forming from the 1780's. A very grand looking town with an opera house, pavilion, gardens, a large Crescent style building in the centre etc. And possibly one of the most grand is where we are staying... it was quite cheap, we think due to our late booking... The Palace Hotel.

We turned up at 7 pm after a very big day, complicated by the 2 punctures and the fact this was/is the biggest climbing day of our whole trip with just under 1500 metres of climbing, often steep. So looking suitably bedraggled and smelly we checked in.... the lobby was full of people in their finery and holding champagne flutes, it appears a wedding is in full swing!

A very flash lobby, chandelier, grand piano being played etc... and the friendly chap checking us in just said nonchalantly... wheel your bikes in through the lobby and we will put them in a conference room... What??? So he proceeded to ask various well heeled people to move a bit so we could push our bikes through.... funny as, and the ideal way to get us laughing at the end of a tough riding day.

Feeling revitalised after a cuppa and a shower we headed out for a wander around the impressive town centre and found a suitable dinner pub.

Sunday, June 30: I'm a train, I'm a train, I'm a chucka train...

Buxton - Ashbourne, 41 km

A quick walk around Buxton again this morning before departing about 10 am.

Hills??.. the sad thing about most of these towns and villages is that you drop down a hill into them which then means you have to climb back out. Probably more so when following the suggested cycle routes which are all designed to keep you away from traffic as much as possible (a brilliant thing!).

Although the climbing not too bad this morning, initially on streets, then up farm-like tracks into Limestone country, briefly back onto very quiet roads before joining the top of a trail on ex railway line... the Tissington Trail. Why we have not found railway trails everywhere is a question, they are easy!!! As we started at the terminus it was all slightly downhill which made for very pleasant riding through picturesque scenery. To make things even better there were periodic snack shops, toilets, bike hire/repair shops etc. 

Being a Sunday in mid-summer (supposedly) there was lots and lots of people on the trail... people with babies, people with dogs, people on bikes, families on bikes... a very relaxed feel. As we had been climbing this morning there were a lot of other bikers about then too on a Sunday blast... serious and a lot lot lighter and faster than us.

Arrived into Ashbourne after the final flourish of a lengthy railway tunnel, we were early for our AirBnB check-in but Sandra the host had told us that was fine. A great 1 bedroom apartment with a washing machine... bonus and much appreciated.. very close to a supermarket and then the town centre easy walking distance. The ideal spot for our 2 night stay... we have been extremely lucky getting accommodations to suit us pretty much everywhere, particularly when we have often only been booking the day before. There is also a friendly cat desperate to be adopted, so ideal. Looking forward to a day "off bikes" after what has been a pretty hard few days.

Tough biking ... a shadow of his former self...

Monday, July 1: A guided tour...

A changeable day, warm cloudy start turning to misty rain, steady rain and wind then clearing later in the arvo.

Noel did a clean up and service of the bikes... they appreciated a little love!

Then at 10 am our friends Alan and Janet came and picked us up. Alan and Janet live near Derby, not too far from Ashbourne, but spend a couple of months every NZ summer in Arrowtown... we got to know them through the Whakatipu Walkers group we all attend. They had kindly offered to show us some of their local walking, and interest, spots.

First up was a walk around the village of Ashford-in-the-water, a cute stone built village (as a lot are!) with the river Wye running beside it. Historically known for black marble quarrying. Very pretty town, still small and quiet... although as Alan explained a lot of the houses are absentee owners, due to the aesthetic appeal pushing up prices, so a lot of these small cute towns are losing their actual community feel.

Drove a bit further and walked a section of the Monsal trail... starting in the village of Little Longstone we walked across a field to reach the ex railway line trail. A very popular trail, even on a Monday there are a lot of people about, a sign that we are now in the lower more highly populated areas of the UK. This section of trail passes through the Headstone tunnel, a 500 m tunnel. Wandered partway across the Headstone viaduct which crosses the river Wye.

The railway had been a link between Manchester and London which was closed in 1968, when a major overhaul of the UK rail system occurred. The line had historically supported a number of cotton, wool, textile mills in the area.

Alan drove us through a number of busy villages and with deteriorating weather we climbed up Mam Tor, a 517 m hill near the town of Castleton. Mam Tor means Mother Hill so called because frequent landslips have resulted in a number of small hills below it. The tor was a fort in the bronze age. It was windy... a wind tunnel strength wind.. and as we got to the top a mist rolled in so the view wasn't ideal either, but lots of fun! As we descended the cloud rolled back to give us some views.

We walked from there down the road a little to the Blue John Cavern... a cavern discovered whilst lead mining was occurring above. The whole cave system is limestone based hence there are a number of caves/caverns in the wider area. Whilst exploring the cavern the lead miners came across a variety of Fluorite known as Blue John, a semi-precious stone used for ornaments and jewellery. So far this is the only place in the world known to have this stone.

We did a guided tour down into the caverns, 245 steps down and up again reaching a depth of 90 m. Spectacular formations of limestone, iron coloured and rippled flow-stone. The cave has had water continuously dripping or showering in... more or less depending on outside conditions but always flowing in some form. An amazing place to see, the cave system is extensive and we only got to see one section of it. Our guide was a very knowledgeable expert having worked there as a guide since he was 14, guessing he is now mid 50's.

The Blue John name is thought to have come from French origins "bleu et juane" meaning blue and yellow.

Apart from the 4 of us, the group included another family... including their dog down into the depths... as we've mentioned, dogs go everywhere!!

From there a stop at Grindleford railway station cafe for a hot cuppa to warm up and prepare for our next expedition. This was to Curbar Edge, a beautiful ledge of gritstone made up of lots of dramatic forms which make an ideal area for rock climbing. It was nearly deserted due to the inclement weather, mist swirling around which to us made it more spectacular. Funny though as Alan led us up a lesser used path, which added to the adventure although Janet thought he was mad doing so!

A stop at Chatsworth house carpark and a quick walk around as it was jtime on closing time anyway. Chatsworth is the seat of the Duke of Devonshire... although the Duke and Duchess have moved out to let the younger generation take over... The Earl of Burlington (ex photographer), his wife (a model) and 3 children... it is hard imagining living in a house like that... it is absolutely huge. But exceptionally well maintained and a very popular tourist spot. Alan and Janet advised it is well worth a visit but you really need a lot of time to explore the house and gardens.

King Charles, in his past job as a prince anyway, would often visit as the Duke was his favourite uncle. The house has been in the Cavendish family since 1549. A huge complex and a massive estate still goes with it (some land was sold off in the 80's to cover owed duties), plus villages nearby all owned. The villages all have the same paint scheme (ie stone buildings but doors, downpipes etc all the shame shade of blue).

After what has been a great days exploration of part of the beautiful Derbyshire area a pie and pint at a nearby pub before heading back for the guys to drop us at Ashbourne.

A fabulous day out and a very big thank you to Janet and Alan.

Ashbourne, and a lot of the other villages in the area, have bunting up in their main streets/squares. Apparently as it has recently been the "well dressing" weekend, a celebration of purity of the village/s water wells. A tradition started by those who survived the Black Death plague in 1348, or else the continuation of water supply in 1615. The current ceremony format started in the late 1700's. Clay boards adorned with flowers and mosses to make pictures, mannequins are dressed etc.

Ashbourne itself for this celebration has a completely mad ball game that takes place... apparently up to 100 in each team fighting for possession of a large round ball. Nor rules really, they will all charge through peoples gardens, up rivers etc to try and be the winner (who is an individual left holding the ball at the end of a set time (days).

Tuesday, July 2: Easy rider...

Ashbourne - Stafford, 48 km

Pre departure walk into the town to restock the tyre tube supplies (kept thinking carrying 3 spare was an overkill... but perhaps not given we have twice had 2 go in one day).

Upon packing up and a cherry farewell from our lovely ex Irish host, we wound through streets and out into the country. Largely still following NCN 68 at this point. Quiet roads, cropped fields of wheat, barley, beans and corn (with no plastic.. the soil is warmer!). Saw about 5 day cyclists out for a ride.

A stop at a motorway service stop for lunch on the outskirts of Uttoxeter, as not sure what else we would find and we were getting hungry... so Burger King it was!! However after another 30 minutes we came up on a lovely farm shop, garden centre and cafe... so purchased a couple of pieces of scrumptious cake to purge the system of the BK top up!

A lovely ride through farm landscapes on quiet B roads. No more stone walls, no more sheep. A few young cattle, more trees scattered through the fields across undulating countryside.

We kept following a road with multiple "road closed ahead" signs with a bit of trepidation, to finally reach a hole dug across the road on the edge of a village. A friendly local told us to just push the bikes around it and carry on... which we did.

Another 20 minutes later we encountered another road closed barrier but there was a footpath/bike path still accessible so easy.

Arrived at our Premier Inn accommodation on the outskirts of Stafford around 4 pm... a chance for a bit of admin catch up and dinner at a neighbouring pub so very handy!! Our bikes are in the room with us for the night, the first time for the trip but standard practice apparently at this chain hotel.

(EDITORS NOTE: for those of you reading these posts, in current time we are off the grid for a couple of weeks so won't get a chance to catch up on posts... we are about 3 weeks behind in real time... but will in due course)

Of Lakes and Dales

Sunday, June 23: I saw the lake first...

Maryport - Keswick, 37 km

Left our hotel around 9 am and headed up, and up,and up... a lovely morning and lots of day cyclists about... a lot quicker than us on their road bikes, Lycra and no luggage. Through farmland, still lots of silage is being done although a lot of crop land also. Went through the town of Cockersmouth which looked like a lovely town but we did not stop.

Then more hills, but we were being encouraged by a sign advertising a pop up market and cafe, and even the right day and right month which is a bonus as many we have seen have been either the week before, or after, our passing by. But.... unfortunately in this case we discovered it was over the other side of the valley and would entail biking down and then returning back up, and we are not doing that, no matter how big the piece of gateaux is!!!

Hence we just carried on upwards. We have now hit walker country, lots and lots of them! We guess the nice weather as well as being a Sunday definitely encourages people to head for the hills. The UK has footpaths absolutely everywhere, criss crossing through and over farmland and people do use them. 

The road basically ran out and we went cross country, still following the route, on a farm track then dropped down a very steep gravel path which had an amazing view of Lake Bassenthwaite, to reach the town of Thornthwaite. The houses have immediately changed in style/looks and are now a sort of fairy tale stone type.

We stopped for a pub lunch in the sun at Braithwaite, very appealing outside seating and lovely sun so why not... there hasn't been many hot sunny days to take such liberties. 

Rolled into Keswick about 2 pm. Very, very busy... people with backpacks, people with daypacks, people with babies, people with dogs. A bit of a shock to our system to encounter so many people after our countryside riding. As we were too early to check into our B and B we found our way down to Derwentwater lake and did a short walk to Friar's Crag, which is a lovely lookout over  Derwentwater. Following that we just sat and people watched as they partook in various water front activities... rowing, U drive power boats, bigger tour boats, sailboarding and a lot of paddling in the edges including one with a remote control toy tug boat... but not a lot actually swimming.

Checked into our B and B at 4 pm, a place with lovely facilities and a very friendly host. After a cuppa we headed out for a walk and dinner downtown. Still a magnificent evening... perhaps summer has arrived in a more settled way?

Monday, June 24: A hiking we will go...

Another lovely day and a day off the bikes for some walking instead. The Lakes District is walking trails galore... so it was just a matter of choosing one that got us some height for a view but at the same time not too strenuous. So Walla Crag it was, a roughly 8 km track, initially some 300 m up to a viewpoint on the eastern side of Derwentwater. It was a steep'ish climb through forest and farmland to the top to be rewarded with lovely views of Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite Lake beyond. There were a handful of people at the top taking in the view although people were constantly coming and going in both directions.

Coming down off the hill was Ashness Bridge which is said to be the most photographed pack horse bridge in the Lakes District... and it was a nice view although hard to get photos due to the angles and the number of people there at the time we were. Followed track and roadside path to get back to Keswick.

Noel purchased some replacement brake pads... the hills are telling and there is a lot more coming up... which were fitted to his bike as well as servicing both bikes during the afternoon (Caro's brakes are still OK... or so Noel assures her?). Otherwise ice cream and snacks filled in the remaining time just nicely.

Spotted a deer and 2 little ones, as well as a pheasant, when out and about.

A comment on the dogs.... or should we say people and their dogs... There are dogs everywhere, which seems to be a very strong UK passion. All sorts of dogs, and often people will have more than one. And they go everywhere: walks, national parks, castles, boat trips, cafes, pubs... everywhere. Not necessarily outdoor animals, as they go where their owners go,  so a lot sit inside. Every pub/cafe always seems to have at least one lot of customers with their dogs under the table. (Editors note: think they mean the dogs, they never stayed long enough to see if the owners ended up under the table)

Not all well behaved (dogs!) with the occasional barking competition warming up! In saying that when you meet owners with dogs on paths etc they are very well trained (dogs and owners) and the dogs are made to sit, or held to the side, until you pass. It has been a bit of an eye opener, but guess it explains why there is a changing trend in NZ and we often see dogs walking through Queenstown Mitre 10 for example... just a different mindset to what we are used to.

And a puzzlement: How come we have biked all this way and still huff and puff if walking up a hill (actually more so than before we left NZ)... should we not be fitter by now!?? Obviously a different type of fitness, we hope!

Noel's past life with Walking Access, and both of us from agricultural backgrounds have found the footpath signs in England a fascinating concept.  In England there are footpath signs everywhere, signposted but some obviously not popular as they point to overgrown sections. Many go through farmyards, the middle of crop paddocks and stock paddocks. Although we have noticed in England signs on some farm/field gates advising no access/private property so encouraging people not to go off the signposted routes. Again very common to see dogs, on leads mainly although not strictly so. Scotland has a slightly different access culture with a free right to roam anywhere, and also the ability to pretty much camp anywhere, whereas in England it is only walking/riding etc on the marked footpaths and camping is discouraged. It must actually be a nightmare for farmers at times, we spotted more than one photo showing animals (sheep) that had been mauled by dogs.

Today there has been a number, or the same one multiple times, of air force fighter jets flying in the area... practising their hill manoeuvres, quite spectacular to see.

Tuesday, June 25: Lift your eyes unto the hills...

Keswick - Appleby-in-Westmortland, 67 km

A hot day, but remained mostly cloudy, after we departed 9 am'ish. Got a bit mis-mothered (translation for the non sheep farmers... slightly lost) getting out of Keswick but soon found the route which followed the Keswick to Threlkeld railway path... a lovely 5 km tarsealed path on ex railway line, which is well used by bikers and walkers. This path was a millennium project to make recreational use of the line that closed in 1972, a wonderful path that crosses the Greta river several times.

From there we lifted up into the foothills on a different path with a number of gates requiring opening and shutting. While on this section we met and were leapfrogging a US couple, one on an e-bike, who although going to a different end point, it was quite handy to share the gate duties!

We wound our way out of those hills, which were spectacular, via lanes running through reasonably remote farmsteads. Past a tiny settlement with a pub (not yet opened for the day, sadly) to cross some moor land before dropping into a valley to ride a section of paved paths beside the A66 highway... a lot of traffic on that but trouble free when beside it. 

It was then on quiet back roads towards Penrith, via the town of Greystoke. Greystoke has a castle and a huge stone fence that either belonged with the castle or a big nearby estate, a very pretty village.  A lovely ride out to Penrith arriving 1 pm'ish and found our way to the town centre. Initial impressions was it seemed frantically busy with all traffic wanting to go through the centre... including tractors with large trailers hurtling through!! In fact it is quite amazing in all the towns and villages seeing tractors rushing through, smaller vehicles all seem to slow down but these behemoths seem to think they are still ploughing or something and don't realise their speed.

A lovely bakery/deli found for lunch right on the main street where we sat outside with our bikes. It surprises us that there are all these cycle paths/routes passing via towns, Keswick included, but often there is a lack of cycle parking areas.

Leaving Penrith we stopped and walked around Brougham Castle, built on an area that was once a Roman Fort. The fort was thought to have started as a military base in 1 AD (just to repeat, as it is staggering to think about... 1 AD!!) with a stone fort then built the next century. An important position for guarding the Roman road to the Penines and crossing the rivers Eamont and Lowther where they join. The castle was then built in the 13th century before a change of ownership in 1296 to Robert Clifford who refortified it with stone walls and a gatehouse. Although it then stayed in Clifford ownership it fell into disrepair because the family preferred their other castles!! (alright to have the choice, even then).

It was however restored in 1643 by Lady Anne Clifford who had to challenge an uncle for her rightful inheritance. Lady Anne also restored 2 other castles, Appleby and Brough. After her death the heir sold all the furnishings and let Brougham Castle decline. Interesting that the Appleby castle is now being run as accommodation and so must be in reasonable condition.

Once we left Brougham Castle we undulated our way to Appleby-in-Westmorland, commonly referred to as Appleby (strange that!). Appleby is a historic (9th century) market town. We are staying in the Royal Oak Inn... built in the late 16th century!!! A lovely pub, but you do have to watch your head on the low rafters as well as your footing on the very uneven floor, great fun though.

Our bikes have been stored in a range of locations at our overnight stops, but this one takes the cake (almost literally).. when asked the barmaid said "put them in the gelato shop, we are about to close it for the day anyway!!"

On our travels today at least 4 pheasants spotted, and also rode by one or 2 sites/buildings of ex Bobbin Mills... which had been changed from producing yarn to producing bobbins from local wood, once again an industry we had never thought of previously.

Maize/sweetcorn with plastic, presumably to keep soil warm.

Wednesday, June 26: All creatures great and small... well, hills anyway...

Appleby-in-Westmortland - Ingleton, 73 km

8:45 departure and heading southward at this point via undulating hills through farmland, still lots of baleage/hay on the go in the good weather... a beautiful day, the hottest so far.

A brief stop at the waterfall Rutter Force that at one stage (1579) provided power for a corn mill beside it. The mill changed from threshing to a saw mill and then finally a bobbin mill. We parked our bikes and walked down to it as the road was very steep, no need to ride/push bikes back up.

Up and down, up and down through farmland on very quiet rural roads, lots of stone walls and fencing. Onto Little Ashby Common which is a barren looking rocky moorland. Wound our way up a valley, first under the busy M6 motorway. then an underpass under the adjoining railway line. We have since found out that our friends from Arrowtown, Keith and Susan, walked along part of this same section when walking the coast to coast trail some 3 weeks later!

A very narrow public road, well sealed and a lovely ride. We came across a lamb stuck in a cattlestop... so Noel leapt off his bike, once again with his hero cape, to rescue it but one look at his orange vest and the lamb decided it could get itself extracted thank you very much! On these narrow farm roads we met a farm fuel tanker, and a couple of tractors... very narrow passing with us leaning right into the foliage to let them past.

Dropped down to Sedburgh for lunch, a cute market town that seemed to have an abundance of ice cream shops. From there it was serious, and we mean serious, climbing... once again a great road surface through grazing sheep along the foot of large hills. We were very thankful for the hedgerows that lined the path as they provided some shade in the heat.

Through the village of Dent, a picturesque village of streets of cobbles, which we rattled over! Really iconic Yorkshire Dales views then for a valley, hugely long stone fences splitting the hills into fields, with stone buildings and houses... lovely. After passing a waterfall the climb begun, as if we thought we had done climbing before this was really climbing!!!

One exceptionally steep, long section entailed a lot of pushing. The GPS reads over a 27 degree gradient at one stage, and one starts pushing once it is over about 12 normally. Very slow progress but we made it !! And even worth the stunning views along the way. Thankfully though the last 10 km into Ingleton was mostly downhill.... yee haa...

Ready to stop at the end of a very exhausting day, but a good day. We must say the English gardens, in peoples houses, are looking lovely, well looked after... guess the time of year certainly helps.

Sign aimed at readers of this blog...

Thursday, June 27: Find a mattress for the night... 

Ingleton - Barnoldswick, 55 km

A quick walk around Ingleton this morning, another pretty village set in a valley with a large old railway viaduct. Although we expected to be able to walk over the viaduct it has been blocked off. The railway usage ceased in 1954.

Packed up the bikes and departed by 10 am, with rain threatening, not ideal!  Heading slightly up hill with a tail wind initially. A quick stop at a waterfall in Clapham and then made our way to the town of Settle for lunch. A very busy town with lots of cyclists, motor cyclists, tour buses etc. We found a lovely cycle shop with a cafe... ideal. Settle is a lovely old market town in the Yorkshire Dales, popular for its access to the 3 Peaks which are in the Penine range.

It is lovely countryside with amazing stone fences everywhere, a feat of engineering really as they must have toiled for months on end. In places repairs are actively being done on collapsed sections, we are thinking if you have a farm in the Yorkshire Dales National Park there is an obligation to keep them "as is". The majority of farm holdings within the National Park have areas of "High Nature Value" that benefit certain species or habitats.

This concept developed in the 1990's, so the areas are less intensively farmed, but there is recognition that the Dales have been farmed for 1000's of years and there is no wish to stop it. Google advises us that over 95% of the Yorkshire Dales National Park is in private ownership, ie local farmers. The National Park itself owns less than 4% of the land. There are grants available to landowners who assist, by not using artificial fertilisers, having lower stocking rates and  utilising traditional building methods and buildings.

Most of the houses everywhere are still built of stone, but there has been a change in the type of stone used. We have left the very grey, flat stone of the Lakes District and it is now a lighter colour and chunkier stone.

A big climb out of Settle with a bit of pushing again, we still had a slight tail wind which certainly helps. A lovely ride back down and then undulating up and down into Gargrave which looked like a nice town. The town is surrounded by some prosperous looking farm estates, well at least in some stage of their lives they were. Noticeable there is now becoming less stone fences, and the fields that are stocked are more intensively stocked than previously.

Onto our stop for the night in Barnoldswick via quiet roads and the last 4 km on the Leeds to Liverpool canal path, a single gravel track compared to some of the paved canal paths we have ridden in the past. Rain showers coming through with the temperature dropping, so we were pleased to get to our Bed and Breakfast after winding through the town to find it.

Barnoldswick is industrial, or has been in the past, it is now the home to the the UK's largest mattress factory, also a Rolls Royce factory that historically has been known for its aircraft engines manufactured here. The towns redeeming feature is that it is close to the tranquil Yorkshire Dales, plus it is the kind of place that is perfect to overnight on a "threatening rain" evening. Our room is named Peak View, and supposedly has a lovely view of the 3 Peaks... just not this evening with the rain clouds about.

We appear to have left the cropping areas behind, for now anyway, although there is still a frantic rush to bring in hay/silage. The fields mostly seem very lightly stocked if we do see livestock. Lots of walkers about, and the odd cyclist (Editor note: look at yourselves before you call others odd!). Even the occasional long distance cyclist as some do have panniers etc.

Passed through... just for a laugh...

Photo's really don't do justice to how steep the hills are!!

Not keen to eat there, in case the buns aren't fresh or the pastry is past its best...

Friday, June 28: Cobbled Streets...

Barnoldswick - Meltham, 71 km

It's raining, it's windy and it's cold... the first day the motivation hasn't been there to get on the bikes. We don't want to go...

But we do, leaving 8:30'ish and back on the canal paths for the first few km's to reach the town of Colne where we had a discussion about which option to take... over the (steep) hills or the longer distance (by 8 kms) on canal paths. Given the weather, although it isn't so bad now we are out biking... it is even clearing a little... we decided on the canal paths.

It took a while to navigate out of Colne but a couple of different very helpful locals soon had us right. This canal riding wasn't that exciting, a lot of rubbish around and we were weaving through residential and industrial (old canal serviced buildings) for most of the way. This took us to the city of Burnley and exited from there through Towneley Park... originally a private estate.

Interesting for the section within Colne and through to Burnley it was quite difficult to spot the NCN (National Cycle Network) signage... it had been painted over, peeled off or turned the wrong way. They obviously don't like cyclists around these parts! The people out walking the canal paths in general were quite friendly though, and our GPS kept us on track!

From there we went up... and up... streets, roads, some very steep roads and onto moorland. At this stage we were following a section of the Penine Way (NCN 68). The tops were very exposed but luckily the wind was behind us and the rain had disappeared.. so the gradual up sections were surprisingly easy.

We then dropped down to the small historic, cute, town of Heptonstall where the main street is steep and cobbled... we bumped our way down giving way to uphill vehicles as it was very narrow. Amazing how people move about with cars and trucks on these tiny roads built for horses!

A very steep drop down a cobbled pathway (walking the bikes down was necessary, it would have been quite dangerous to attempt to ride) into the middle of Hebden Bridge township. A popular tourist town today but previously a large industrial centre in the 19th and 20th century. This is due to the proximity to the fast flowing rivers making it ideal for mills... mostly weaving mills. Also with 2 canals running through it had access to markets. A lovely spot, a very pretty village, for our lunch stop.

Back on the bikes and the first 5 km beside river, railway and canal then up... very very steep which we had to do a lot of pushing... awful!  From that point on the riding became a grind for the day really... up, up, and some more up before down to pass beneath and to be beside the M62 briefly... then up and down some more to make it to Meltham at just after 6 pm. 

Dinner from a nearby pizza joint, eating at our apartment room... not much appeal to Meltham by first impressions but a good spot for the night. A tough day, the hills are tiring but I guess it is the Dales. We head into the Peak District which by the name doesn't bring images of flat land to mind. The rain this morning eased off quickly and although cold for the day it wasn't as bad as we thought it would be.

People are a bit friendlier in these parts, compared to the Lakes district where we had noticed a bit of a more reserved attitude compared to further north. Two helped us out with directions without being asked, another few just stopped to chat on the paths. The last chap Caro said hello to when she was struggling up the hill into Meltham responded that it looked like she was biking around the world... she told him she felt like she already had!!

Nice countryside to ride through, still stone fences although getting a bit less, the farms looking more intensive although overall still not much stock out and about.

We were challenged to a race up one hill today by an 11 year old'ish boy .... who beat us easily whilst doing a wheel stand on the way up! Told us he bikes that strip of steep road everyday. 

Just to prove we are not the slowest...