Up about
7am, not many people up at that time of the morning in this Lausanne. Decided
to bike couple of km to nearby supermarket for breakfast supplies and then
returned to eat by Lac Leman… on the beach in front of restaurant, it is all quite
stunning.
Packed up
the tent, only the ground sheet was wet, and left campground by 10am.
Riding by
the lakeshore and bypassing Lausanne, passing lots of grand old buildings
fronting the lake, before stopping for a pain-au-chocolate… twice the price of
France, but still yummy!
From there
we started climbing up into the hills amongst the wineries, Chateaux with
cellar doors etc. Absolutely stunning with rock terrace walls, lines of grapes,
out riding taking us up and down on roadways and quiet narrow access lanes
looking out over the lake below. The restaurants we passed all quite busy with
lunch.
It was very
hot, so along with the climbing a stop for a sugar burst of a can of Coke was
necessary.
Dropped
down to the lake level and into the town of Vevey, before an easy 7km ride to
Montreux, another flash tourist town (winter ski area too). Lots of very grand
buildings, including casino/s. along the lake with the town slightly up the
hill.
Staying in
a shared bathroom B&B, nice facilities, our room around 10m max from the neighbouring
railway line which is quite busy… but imagine we will sleep quite well after our
nights camping.
Walked back
into town and sorted out our train tickets at the station with the assistance
of a very helpful chap.
Evening
walk along the quieter promenade direction, finding dinner at a tennis club
which was lovely and not too expensive relatively!
An end to a
stunning days riding.
9 August,
Saturday. 54km, 30C (38C max)
Awake early
although can’t blame the train traffic as it didn’t disturb us for the night.
Breakfast by 7:30am, a lovely spread and lots of it available.
At the train
station before 9am and waiting on the platform for our 9:28am train. A lot of
tourists about all lined up for trains.
First leg
OK, one bike was already on so we hung one of ours and the 2nd Noel
dragged in and pushed in against the other 2. The other bike got off, so ended
up with both ours hanging in the rack. A 2-hour journey to Brig. Lots of
vineyards on the hills continue, as well as an obvious apple and pear industry.
A 20-minute
connection/change at Brig so that was fine, helped by their being ramps between
the platforms rather than lifts. A lot of people waiting on train however, so a
bit of a push to get on but managed… again we could hang one bike, had to shift
some other peoples luggage around so we could get second bike hung also.
A zig-zagging
spectacular trip through the Alps to Andermatt. Small Swiss villages, lots of
hay being cut on precarious slopes and in some cases hand raked. At one stage
we passed through a 15km long tunnel, quite amazing particularly when we met
another train that had cars sitting on open wagons with the drivers and
passengers still sitting in the vehicles!
The train
ended up being 10 minutes late arriving to Andermatt, although the connecting
train waited there was a real rush of people jostling to change platforms. By
the time we managed to get our laden bikes down and up ramps the train was just
departing…. they missed seeing us coming up the ramp! Noel got it sorted with the
station attendant, who issued new tickets to get us on the next departure and
admitting it should not have happened. We officially shouldn’t have been
allowed to use the next train, but because it was her fault she made sure there
was no issue.
The final
train leg was from Andermatt up to Oberalp Pass. Andermatt is surrounded by
mountains and has gondolas, hikers and lots of traffic. The Oberalp Pass summit
is located basically at the source of the Rhine River, our target is to follow the
river to the sea!
Off the
train to be greeted by lots and lots of flash cars… it is obviously a fantastic
drawcard to drive the twisting pass road up and down. Lamboghini’s, Ferraris, BMWs,
Audi, Porsche, Japanese performance etc etc along with numerous motobikes, and
some more “lowley” cars such as Citroen 2CV!
From the pass
a glorious 15km downhill stretch via switchbacks and long flowing sections
dropping through the dramatic alp scenery with stunning villages and farm
buildings alongside.
At one town
the cycle.travel route took us off the main road to ride lovely track and road
route, although some quite rough sharp stones, with a fair bit of up and down.
With still 20km to go to our night stop when we next intersected the main road,
we put on our road lights and reflective vests, and upped the pace on the
smooth, mainly downhill, highway (but not super busy with vehicles, and
certainly nice and wide verges). We were going so fast we nearly our turnoff…
meaning we had to take an alternative, very steep street after manhandling the bikes
through a gap in the roadside fencing to cross country slightly.
A very
steep climb/push up to a Dominican Convent for the night. Sourced on
Booking.com the religious order rents out rooms to tourists. After a bit of
mucking around, caused by our, by then, hot and late arrival in conjunction
with language issues we managed to get our bikes stored… along with a handful
of mainly e-bike tour bikes.
A lovely
room though, a different view from last night’s train track, looking out over
the town and beautiful valley to the hills beyond. After our showers we are a
bit exhausted and not up to walking down the town to source dinner, so got by
with some snacks. The on-site café had some food available, but we have currency
issues (Swiss franc’s only accepted and we only have Euro cash)… so ended up
eating our survival rations from our bags… not much but it sufficed.
10
August, Sunday. 63km, 26C (33C max)
Had an
amazing breakfast supplied, it was amazing this morning how many people had
actually been staying in the complex overnight. The nuns were circulating
chatting to everyone… except us which must have shown we have a “no speaka da
language” sign on our heads.
After
breakfast Noel asked at reception if we could buy a couple of displayed
sandwiches using our Euro’s or our Wise Card… the receptionist said, no, just
take them!! A bonus but we left wondering if the nuns in accounting would be
wondering who flogged their sandwiches.
Dropped
into the main street of Ilanz where teams were busy street cleaning. There had
been large celebrations last night of some sort, I could still hear music at 1:30am.
Up a long
hill, gradient was gradual and fine, and temps weren’t too hot so it was
enjoyable. A lot of cars and motorbikes use the same roads as well as a share
of cyclists, both day trippers on road bikes and bike packers.
A lovely
downhill after passing some spectacular villages amid the mountains. Crossing a
bridge, in Versam area, led the narrowing road via some tunnels and rock walls
on steep drop-offs. Very impressive riding, almost Skippers Canyon look in
places. Very special.
Emerged
onto some flat riding, seem to be out of the alps now, passing through town of
Tamins before dropping down once more beside the Rhine River. Into the town of
Chur (bro!) and searched out a convenience store near the railway station to
buy some lunch supplies. Not much else open due to it being a Sunday.
Following
the river path for a while, chatting briefly to a (young) bike packer as she
passed us, she is riding from Paris to Budapest. Route then took us away from
the river at Landquart via farmland and into the foothills covered in vineyards
again. A few steep climbs along the undulating path in the full sun so tough
going at times. Noticing a handful of chairlifts must be a winter ski area.
Passed
through a number of pretty villages before dropping down into the town of Maienfeld,
another lovely town, for our hotel stay. Pizza and pasta for dinner, nice restaurant,
as there isn’t many choices on a Sunday evening (day of rest – Ruhetag).
Followed by an evening stroll around this pretty village located in the heart
of Heidi country (the book by Johanna Spyr published in 1880/81, and subsequent
TV/film, set in this area).
Beautiful
riding for the day, also lots of cars and motorbikes also enjoying the roads… just
for the joy of driving rather than reaching a destination. Some of our riding
on roads, a lot of the river section on well-sealed trail/paths… a few Portaloo’s
enroute including even a composting toilet at one spot.
11
August. 76km, 28C (38C max)
Left the hotel
at 8:15am, quick stop at Spar market to get banana’s and yoghurt before a quick
lift up onto quiet road overlooking the valley. Stop for breakfast at a picnic
table in a magic spot by vineyards with a view. Dropped through a cute village
(another one!) to then follow a path alongside the Rhine, a sealed route atop the
flood bank.
A few war lookouts
(WW2 we presume) dotted along the riverside. Trail busier now with cyclist and
bike packers. Looking down the river there is a thick haze in the air, looks
like smoke but likely pollution as we approach the more industrial areas. We
are also beside a very busy 4 lane highway… farewell to the quieter countryside
perhaps.
Crossed
over the bridge into the country of Liechtenstein and into the capitol of Vaduz…
for a coffee, as you do. A pretty main street with some impressive buildings
all overlooked by the castle on the hill above, the Principality residence
built in the 12th century but upgraded in the 16/17th.
The Prince Der Furst still lives in the castle and it is not open to the
public.
Had our coffee
at an American Bagel shop of all places, due to easy bike parking in view, but
an expensive exercise… 2 coffee’s and one brownie 15 CH (Swiss Franc) equating to
$NZ 30!!! Yikes!
Left the
country over a different bridge to lift up into the town of Buchs before some
pretty riding through farm roads in the foothills. Some cereal harvesting and
lots of haymaking on the go. No sign of much stock but there are large sheds,
the equipment is also quite large.
After a bit
of meandering around we rejoined the Rhine River path and unfortunately turned
into a head wind. Although not a horrific wind it was definitely resistance
training and still very tiring! A lot of bikers use the trails which are on
both sides of the river. The Rhine is increasing in size now with large industrial
sites and starting to see the odd river barge plying up and down.
Crossed
into Austria, at Furbach, at about 3:45 and into the Austrian town of Hard around
4:15 to find our hotel. This entailed going to one establishment to get the
code for our building but all very good accommodation which includes large
secure bike storage. Our hotel was built in the 1700’s, Krone Hard, and is a
listed half timber house… very nice room.
Out for a
walk to find dinner, still a beautiful hot evening so lots of people are about.
Walked to view the lake (Constance, or Bodensee) and then doubled back to an
Italian restaurant we had spotted as many other restaurants were closed on a
Monday. Had to wait for a table but worth it as nice meal, Euro39, certainly
noticeably cheaper than Switzerland.
The day
ended up being a bit of a grind with the wind unfortunately, amazing given we
have been riding down river, think it would have been easier going up today! Pretty
much out of the mountains now. An amazing day in that we rode in 3 countries,
and we enter Germany tomorrow! There is huge numbers of bikes in the town.
12 August,
Tuesday. 40km, 24C (34C max)
Very handy
being able to pop just over road to Spar supermarket to grab some breakfast
supplies to eat in our room before departure by 8:45am. Rode to a lake access/harbour
spot for a look, lots of people swimming already and it is warmer water temps
than Lake Geneva… but not quite as clean and appealing.
Spent the
day following the bike path around the side of the lake…. Lots, and lots, and
lots of bikes. People sunbathing, swimming or some on their way to set up for
the day… using cargo bikes, or bikes towing trolleys. Some of the lakeshore is
blocked by private residences or hotels with no public access to the lake.
We arrived at
the island of Lindau at about 10am, connected to the mainland by a bridge and a
railway.
The first
use of the name Lindau was recorded in 882, but the experts believed in was
first settled by the Romans in the 1st century. In 1180 St Stephens
church was constructed and a monastery added.
Quite a
touristy place with people all around the lake front, tour boats departing, buskers
on the promenade etc. Some lovely old buildings, beautiful artwork on their
sides… the Rathaus (city hall) built 1400.
Spent
around 1.5 hours there before back on the bikes and riding past apple/pear
orchards on both path and quiet roads. Stopped for lunch when we spotted a
handy bakery which was busy, Wassenburg am Bodensee which has been a business
since 1550!!
Continued
past orchards/wineries on quiet roads “near” the lake. Surprised to see quite a
few produce stalls selling fruit (apples, pears, plums) and preserves, mostly
on an honesty system.
Got to
Friedrichshafen and found our hostel accommodation, although 30 mins early at
2:30pm we found someone to let us in and show us access details and how
everything works… including the laundry which is a bonus! Possibly some
permanent residents in the complex but all fine, shared bathroom and kitchen
but certainly everything clean and available. Did a load of washing and spread
all around our room in the hope it dries enough.
Trip to
nearest supermarket and stopped at a Thai restaurant on way back for dinner. Walked
into main part of town which has harbor and a ferry pick/drop off for the many
ferries that ply the lake. Quite busy with people and restaurants etc.
The town
was established in 1811 but its claim to fame is Ferdinand von Zeppelin
established his dirigible airship factory here in the late 19th century.
Hence the birth of the Zeppelin airship and industry. We had seen one flying
above the lake today when biking… you can go on a scenic flight on one. They
are an impressive sight to see.
2/3 of Friedrichshafen
was destroyed during WW2 as it was an important military industrial site for
the Germans.
The 1937
Hindenburg airship disaster along with the American ban on providing Helium to Germany
effectively finished the industry.
Still
disappointingly hazy, google confirming it is air pollution which is “medium”.
Very much like smoke without the same smell… makes it very hard to even see the
mountains on the other side of Lake Konstanz.
13 August,
Wednesday. 44km, 26C (42C max)
8:30am
departure and biked 20km to Meersburg, through wine country not so close to the
lake on roads and trails.
Meersburg
was busy but by the time we left at 1:30pm it was busier still with people
waiting to take our bike parking spots. A very pretty town both on the lake and
on the terraced upper part.
We then
crossed by vehicle ferry to the city of Konstanz, very easy… apart from Noel discovering
a puncture as we came off the ferry. The first of our trip this year but he
still managed to remember how to change a new tube relatively quickly. But it
was hot work doing so at 32C or so. Found some buns and ham at a grocery store
to buy and had lunch in Germany before we cross back into expensive
Switzerland!! Sat and had our lunch by the harbour in town, Konstanz looks a
busy and bustling city but too hot to explore!
Cycled
through town and shortly thereafter crossed back into Switzerland, through an
actual border station that still exists. 2 Zoll Police had someone stop and
talking to them but everyone else was just driving, cycling, walking through.
Biking
through farmland, first market gardens then a lot of maize and hay fields.
Passed through towns that bordered Lake Untersee (which is connected to Lake
Constance by a short section of the River Rhine) and had some public access
although there is still a lot of private residential places against the lake.
Tonight we
are camping at Steckborn, a lot of other cycle campers as well as general
campers… also a busy place with day visitors utilising the lake there (a day
charge).
We were too
woosey to swim, although it was lovely to stand in the lake as it was very hot
today. After we showered, we walked down the street for breakfast supplies and
stopped on the way back at a Mexican Street Food place for dinner which was
great. Although busy, busy! Did get back to the campground to find it had
emptied out of day trippers, however.
Steckborn
is obviously a major headquarters for the Bernina sewing machine company with
large offices and factory as we walked into town.
Camping beside
a friendly Dutch couple this evening so a nice chat about both of our respective
biking trips.
14
August, Thursday. 62km, 28C (38C max)
8:30am
departure, quite a few of the other bikers had already departed. Slept OK but
have a sore neck. Riding the lakeshore trail, as well as beside the railway,
before crossing the bridge where the lake flows once again as the River Rhine.
Into the extremely pretty town of Stein am Rhein Altstadt. The old part of town
is full of lovely painted buildings, water fountains in a wide paved main
street. We think we were lucky to be early and hence beat the tourist midday
rush, had a lovely walk around and some morning tea there.
A lot of
people swimming at the lake outlet and even saw one chap happily drifting down
the middle of the river.
Onward through
farmland of mature sunflowers, maize and market gardens of carrots, lettuces,
beans etc. Crossed a very cute historic covered wooden bridge across the Rhine
and suddenly back in Germany briefly before riding back across an invisible
border to Switzerland!
Our lunch
stop was Schaffhausen, another very pretty old city centre with a large
monastery and vineyards overlooking it. We had a supermarket lunch on board so
found a seat under some shade next to the Rhine to eat it. Amazingly the number
of people just drifting down the river on floaties is increasing… crazy to see!
A bit of
gravel track, and a bit of steep track, to reach the Rhine Falls. A very busy
tourist attraction, large car parks and lots of staff. Paid our 5 CHF each and
got access to the paths leading to the various viewing platforms. Very
impressive with what is now a large body of water flowing over. Multiple
viewing points ranging from above to beside to below where it tips over so right
beside the falling water. A bit of joining the queue and keeping moving but
well worthwhile.
Tourist
boats were coming from the other side of the river and nosing right in against
it.
From there it
was biking along quieter roads and some gravel tracks beside the river, it is
very hot. Stopped at a swimming spot and stood in the water to cool off…
amazing watching people happily drifting past with their pool noodles! There were
little fish swimming around our feet.
As we lifted
up over some climbing roads and starting to descend Noel got another puncture
in the same tyre… the tyre is so worn you can almost push through, although
thinking we could make it to the end of the trip it isn’t going to happen! Luckily
always carrying a couple of tubes so quickly change and then onward with
fingers crossed.
It was
mostly downhill, or riverside, to the town of Eglisau and as we entered the
town spotted a bike shop. With a bit of assistance from the owner’s wife/girlfriend/sister/mother(?)
on the other end of his phone translating he was happy to fit a new tyre and provide
replacement spare tubes. Sadly, most expensive country to have to do so, but
those are the breaks. Perfect timing to find a bike shop as we weren’t sure how
much further the tyre would hold out!
Got to our
nearby apartment, on other side of river, at about 6pm. Couldn’t get in but
there was another cycling couple arriving around the same time and the apartment
manager soon turned up. Shared bathroom and kitchen and all very nice.
Walk to the
riverside area just beside the apartment, to see another whole lot of people
floating past, then find some dinner up the street slightly. Did a quick loop
walk of some of the nearby streets, a very attractive town particularly with its
riverside setting. Also being overlooked by vineyards.
Both very
tired tonight, heat and bit of stress for the day.
15
August, Friday. 56km, 30C (43C max)
Following a
help yourself breakfast we departed at 8:45am. Climbing on road before dropping
down to beside flash-looking hydro station. Rode past a lot of market garden,
lettuces, carrot, maize (or kale… I finally figured out what it looked like).
Quite a lot of industry in the towns we pass, although we ended up on very
quiet roads. Airplanes overhead flying in towards Zurich at less than 2 minutes
intervals.
Lunch
supply refresh at Bad Zurzach before not too long after recrossing the Rhine
and ending up back in Germany (it would have been cheaper!). Followed gravel
track beside the river then up and down through some other towns… even riding
down an island on the Rhine at one point, one side channel for a power station
feed.
The river
is getting still bigger, it is huge. Lots of people still floating/swimming
with the flow, as well as some smaller boats… the barges have ceased again this
side of Lake Konstanz, presuming due to the falls and then the various hydro
dams. Not so easy to negotiate a barge over!!
Got
slightly mis-mothered at one stage when we lost the route but managed to get ourselves
back on track without backtracking. Very hot day so we are pleased to get to
our Bad Sackingen hotel around 3pm. Hotel is on the edge of town and located
above a very busy Italian restaurant. Upon staff advice we waited until late to
go to restaurant seemingly after it should have quietened down… to be told no
tables! But they relented when they realised we were hotel guests and that we
had been told we would get one. Some other clients were walking out as their
meals were taking too long…. But ours came reasonably quickly and were nice!
We have
already gone for a walk to a nearby supermarket so we are all stocked for
breakfast. Thunder rolling around this afternoon but no rain arrived.
16
August, Saturday. 46km, 26C (35C max)
8:15am
departure following our DIY breakfast in the room. It was incredibly hot last
night, no fan or air conditioner plus had to close window due to bugs…. Still,
the washing dried well!
2km into
main part of Bad Sackingen, another very pretty historic town centre with
stunning buildings and a street market happening. An historic wooden covered bridge
over the Rhine which we rode over, and back.
It was then
onwards on a mix of gravel and sealed path or roads, a couple of detours due to
road works, through a lot of maize covered agricultural land.
Going up a
steepish climb and Caro’s bike gears clanked and didn’t change smoothly,
pushing it up hill the pedals kept turning and it wouldn’t back pedal. Seems
the click I have been hearing the last couple of weeks has turned into a clunk!
It is still rideable however, so we checked out where to find some bike shops nearby
in the town of Rheinfelden and started to head that way knowing we had a choice
of the Swiss side or the German side of the river!
However, by
the time we got there the bike had reverted to a usual slight click and the
gears were smooth and able to back-pedal… so decided to just keep going. May
have been a stone caught or similar. Swapped our planned bike shop for a bakery
and got snacks (Schokoladen croissant) and some sandwiches for later lunch… from
the German side of the river.
Back over
the river into Switzerland, Rheinfelden looked a lovely town and quite popular
with a bus load of tourists walking over the bridge as we biked over. Following
bike path with thunder rolling around, when the rain started we took shelter in
a verandah at a cemetery, by the time we ate a snack the rain had mainly passed
so not too bad.
Two options
as we approached Basel, we decided on the slightly longer route following quiet
streets rather than the riverside route. Not quite according to plan however as
part of the route was closed a bike event, of all things, but we managed to
detour around and onto a main street which dropped us directly to our hotel,
ideal.
Found a
nearby supermarket and scored some Swiss Chocolate, for presents, Ragusa.
Dropped that back to hotel then went for an exploration. Grabbed a, free, tram
into city centre then wandered down the main street past the stunning townhall
and Marketplatz before reaching the river. Literally hundreds of people
floating in the river, mainly using flotation devices which we worked out were
drybags with their change of clothes in them… clever! Even has dedicated “floating
lanes” as there is numerous large restaurant boats and normal river traffic/water
taxi’s etc.
A walk
along the other side of the river promenade, lots of food trucks/bars and even
a live band playing on a floating stage. Crossed back again and stopped at one
of the many restaurants, they could fit us in so decided to eat there although
perhaps not our usual fare. Expensive, but everything in Switzerland is, with tap
water CHF 4. 50.. although actually the water is free but you pay for the
service of bringing it to the table! Mains around CHF 35, but no complaints as
that’s what it is and it was delicious.
Had a look
inside the courtyard of the town hall, stunning, then a walk up to Munsterplatz
- Baster Munster which is a red sandstone cathedral overlooking the Rhine River
(which still has floaters happily drifting).
Grabbed a
trolley bus back which dropped us right beside our hotel, perfect.
Basel is quite
a tourist city, but not has a relaxed meandering vibe to it. Really nice city
and impressive.
17
August, Sunday. 7km, 19C
Our plans
for today didn’t work as they were meant to. After our in-room breakfast we were
on our way to railway station to arrive 8:45am aiming for our booked 9:22am train.
Station was easy negotiated luckily with ramps, no lift being a bonus. Waiting
on the platform some other bikers also rolled up, with luggage so bike packers
also. 9am and an announcement in German resulted in a lot of people leaving the
platform... luckily the bikers near us realised we didn’t understand and
advised us the train was cancelled so we would have to rebook, including our
bike booking.
I waited in
the lobby with the bikes while Noel went and joined the large queue. ¾ hour
later he was back with tickets for tomorrow morning… many trains are cancelled
for the day due to storm damage further north on the lines, read that there has
been huge thunderstorms across Germany.
So we just
returned to our hotel, and since our room from last night had not yet been cleaned
when reception checked, they let us get it back. However when we got to the
room the cleaners had just done the full clean/change. Excellent as it is not a
bad price and good location (a chain hotel). Filled in the morning with a bit
of admin then to a nearby bakery to grab some lunch.
Noel had a
one hour sleep and I finished my book, a nice re-charge time out. Then caught
the tram into town and beyond, then a second train to get us close to the Dreilandereck,
the Basel Triangle, the point where France, Germany and Switzerland borders
meet… although the actual point is mid river. A couple of very large river tour
boats docked in the vicinity with a hive of activity loading bags, obviously a
change over point for the tours.
Took train
back to the river promenade area, got off and took photo’s of the bronze statue
of “Helvatia on the road” (1980). Helvatia is the image on the 2 Franc coin and
the idea is that this national personification has left the coin and gone for a
trip, pausing to contemplate the Rhine River.
We then
wandered back up to the church of Basler Munster, went inside for a look which for
some reason didn’t seem as impressive or as big as it does on the outside. Walked
down into the crypt for a look, interesting.
Then headed
over to the other side of the main shopping area into an historic area with a
number of medieval buildings. Had ice cream in a plaza before heading back to
the hotel on tram. Grabbed some dinner at a local hamburger place.
So a
quieter day, a chance to unwind which was nice although not planned. An early
start tomorrow.
18
August, Monday. 35km, 27C (31C max)
Noel’s birthday….
Will you still love me, when I’m 64!
Away from
hotel by 7:20am as our train is an hour earlier than yesterday. Being a work
day the streets were noticeably busier, lots of cars, buses, emergency
services, delivery trucks etc but still
arrived at station with plenty of time. Our bike spaces reserved on train so
hoping all smooth… but a couple of steps to get up into train but managed OK.
Our reserved seats are halfway down the carriage, bags in overhead shelves but
hoping all secure. We are the only bikes getting on this morning.
We are utilising
train for this section of our trip as it is both mainly industrial cities near the
river, so not so appealing for our biking, plus we have previously visited some
of the area on previous Europe trip.
A fast train
which had a final destination of Berlin, speeding along at 280 km/hr with lots
of maize country and some wineries visible on the hills. By the time we got off
at Mannheim, after 4 stops a lot more people had got on, people sitting on
floor, bags and strollers parked against our bikes etc. However, people are
much more considerate than the French were and were very helpful in making sure
we could extricate ourselves! There were also bike/pram ambassadors on the station
platforms to assist so made it much easier.
Rode out
through the outskirts of Mannheim after leaving the central city station
location, some elaborate buildings, however. Stopped at a bakery café for sandwich
and coffee then continued on road until the route directed us onto bike path
beside the Rhine river and/or Rhine channel. Very industrial, it is Germany’s
largest inland port. Large industrial complexes on both sides of the river.
Enjoyable
riding once clear of the main part, leading us to a small ferry crossing over a
tributary waterway…. To find the ferry doesn’t operate on a Monday! So backtracked
a little and weaved our way around to end up back on the bike path over that
river, added a few km but doable once negotiated some roundabouts and overbridges
on busy highway.
Getting
into semi-rural areas and along bike path we got to a main road bridge over the
Rhine. Approaching it our GPS was telling us we are to go over the bridge, but
it looks extremely busy and daunting. However, all becomes clear as path leads
under bridge and some steep internal stairs are visible leading up, with narrow
bike rail to push bikes up. Noel checked first, and yes, it does lead up to a dedicated,
protected, walk/bike lane in the centre of the fast-moving, high-volume traffic
lanes!
So, bit of
puff puff and juggling panniers up and down in the heat, gets us to the other
side of the Rhine. From there it was on river/wetland paths to the delightfully
named city of Worms by 2:20pm. The wetland areas certainly look like they could
absorb a fair volume in the event of river floods.
Walk
downtown later and Worms has some very impressive buildings. Worms is one of
the oldest settlements in Europe, dating from pre-Roman times. The name is
based on a mythical snake/worm like creature that terrorised the area before a
brave knight killed it and named the town after it…. And they all lived happily
ever after. Also known as the foundation town of the Lutheran religious
movement, although the cathedral is from the 7th century Catholic
dominated period and is renowned as on one of the finest Romanesque architectural
cathedrals in Germany. Sadly not many photo opportunities as much of the
buildings are fenced off or screened by tents/marquees due to there being a
festival held here over the just finished weekend.
Dinner at a
Vietnamese restaurant, very nice, that only took cash as due to lightnening strikes
the internet was mainly down and had affected electronic transaction ability at
most businesses. Luckily we had some cash, others were struggling to find
somewhere to eat as they only had cards.
An early night,
some handwashing done which has mainly dried. Also possible to have a cuppa as
room has small kitchenette facility with a hotplate.
19 August, Tuesday. 61km, 28C (36C max)
Departure 8:30am
following lovely provided hotel breakfast then a couple of stops at supermarket
and bakery to get lunch provisions, followed by some road work detours meant it
took about an hour to get out of Worms.
Route on
paths and road by the Rhine then a climb up to the town of Oppenheim, a small
town which when we got to the town square seemed to be full of teenagers eating
ice-creams? A school trip obviously.
We walked
around and into the Katharinenkirche, St Catherines Church, for which
construction commenced 1225 before additions in 1415… then largely (interior
and basement areas) destroyed by fire in 1689. Rebuilding took place and
completed by 1889 although following WW2 another complete refurbishment was
required.
There is a
labyrinth of tunnels/passages under the hill that the town is built on, a town
under a town. We headed to the new part of town in search of a bakery, but it
was overrun with school kids… obviously school is back after summer hol’s.
So content
with our supermarket sandwiches we stopped by a small harbor on the river and
ate lunch while the school crowds cleared.
Followed
bike track along river, then lifted into foothills and on road before a railway
path. Barges on the river, road quite busy with trucks and cars, trains
whizzing past… there is a bit going on.
Arrived at
Mainz about 3pm, 2 large river cruise boats moored up, Viking and Avalon cruises
plus another more basic bike/barge cruise boat. Had an ice-cream on the river
front before checking into our hotel around 4pm.
Wandered
into main square area this evening, a talent quest happened beside the large
cathedral. A few other grand buildings/churches as well although 50% of the
city was destroyed during WW2… a mix of rebuilds and completely new builds
obvious. Grabbed some dinner then to a supermarket for breakfast supplies and
back to hotel by 9pm.
A nice day
but never quiet, lots of overhead airplane noise and never far from road
traffic noise. Into the heavily populated areas of Europe now.
20
August, Wednesday. 75km, 25C
Breakfast
in our room and away by 8:45am. Took a while to weave out of town then mainly
on bike path, well-sealed riverside but over or up from flood bank. Couldn’t
see river unless you rode down to it. Arrived at Bingen 11:45 so a handy lunch
stop. A first for us, 30km in the morning on well paved path.
Quite a big
town but not particularly pretty. Found a bakery to purchase sandwich and cinnamon
roll… although a bit off putting as the cabinet had wasps busy buzzing around
happily landing on the fruit pastries! The wasps have been bad since Lake
Constance, as soon as you pull out food they arrive. Anyway, a good break and a
nice coffee!
From Bingen
on it was a scenic afternoon ride, lots of castles, ruins, hotels and
restaurants on both sides of the river. Churches in every village dominating
the rooflines of the small towns. The river is busy, many large barges with
huge variety of cargo, sleeper boats, occasional ferry crossing point as not
many bridges. Lots to see and look at, and road with traffic and railway lines
on both sides of river along with well paved bike paths.
A stop at
Oberwesel for snacks and at Sankt Goar we discussed but discounted staying at
the riverside campground, although it looked fine. It was still early enough
and we had fuel in the tanks to continue on for another 12-13km to the town of
Boppard. Booked into a riverside hotel, although we have a back room so no
river view… reflective of the price we pay! Wandered around town and found a
dinner spot, although the town may have tourist pricing so no Schnitzel tonight.
A lovely
spot by the river. Thinking about it pretty sure we may have ridden part of
this river road back in 1988 on our motorbike.
21
August, Thursday. 27km, 20C
Away by
8:40am for an easy riverside ride to Koblenz passing a few more castles on the
way. We had stopped in Koblenz back in 2019, on that day there was a huge
food/beer festival but today only usual tourist business. It took a while to
get into the middle of town due to roadwork diversions again.
An
obligatory photo at the point the Mosel River joins the Rhine, beside a rather
large horse statue. Found the railway station, and a bakery, then booked the
bikes at counter for E14, then our tickets online as cheaper to do that way,
for a 1:16pm train. Bit of drama getting bikes to platform as some lifts not
operating, a lot of people are waiting on the platform, train 5 minutes late
and then one turns up from different direction than expected. No destination/#
on front, only English bit just says “do not board” so a fair bit of confusion …
particularly when one doesn’t speak German!
People
piled on, so we found a door advising bikes… which was different than ticket
said… and in broken translation were assured by another biker we were on right
train, time will tell! Strapped one bike to another already on, the other strapped
in the disability seating area as there is room. However, trains soon start’s
to fill up at other stations and is very busy/full between Cologne and Dusseldorf
where it empties significantly including lots of space for our bikes. We disembark
at Duisburg to take a short ride to our hotel, once again having avoided a
heavily industrialised section of the Rhine.
Duisburg
seems a normal sort of town, nothing too special about it. Out for dinner, Noel
finally gets his Schnitzel. Hopefully today was our last train ride involving
the bikes, there is always some stress involved!
22
August, Friday. 72km, 15C
8am departure,
first time in sweatshirts and jackets for absolutely ages it seems. Wound up
some industrial areas to get to the Rhine again before crossing over it to then
lose sight of it as we bike through rural areas, maize and harvested cereal
crops. Passing through smaller non-descript towns, stopping at Rheinberg for
our Schokoladen Croissant.
Just as
well we had sustenance as shortly after we struck track barricades and had to
double back a few km to follow a diversion. Following road and path beside road
along river, saw Wesel railway bridge over the Rhine which was bombed in 1945
and never repaired or demolished.
Got to
Xanten about lunchtime and found a bakery. The town was built on the site of a
former Roman settlement, and has a huge cathedral, a large open plan plaza
surrounded by impressive buildings dating from the 1600’s. 85% of the town was
destroyed in WW2 by both Allies and German artillery fire to be in turn
reconstructed, including the cathedral, over the period up to 1966.
A nice
ride, lots of European tourists about the place.
After
leaving Xanten we meandered along on flood bank path, on top of and beyond the
flood bank including passing lakes that could be flooded if needed for
protection. We crossed the Rhine on a bike/pedestrian ferry to arrive at our
destination of Rees, checked into our apartment type room with a slight river
view, in a hotel complex by 4pm. Dark skies look ominous but no rain at this point.
A walk to a
supermarket followed by takeaway burgers for dinner, very nice too. A stroll
after dinner along the river promenade which is quite well done with statues as
well as a beach bar area (including imported sand). Whole town was likely
rebuilt in the 1950’s due to being destroyed in WW2… and due to the dark
red/brown brick used the whole place looks a bit formal/dreary in general. Not
much flavour to the place, but they have made an effort with their promenade. Actually,
the promenade also is built as a flood defense, including gates that can be put
in place to hold the river back.
First day
that we saw livestock for a long time, sheep and cows. The sheep are grazing
the flood plains. The breed has long floppy ears otherwise look a bit like
Suffolk, brown faced. Cattle are a mix of breeds.
22
August, Saturday. 59km, 18C
A bit later
leaving at 10am, it’s been wet so caught up on some admin before departure.
Crossed the Rhine on a bridge about 2km away then followed river on a road side
cycle path. Interestingly passed by an amusement park, Wunderland Kalkar Frizeitpark,
that has been established in what was originally built as a nuclear power plant…
but never used as such.
Shopped at
Grieth about 11am for croissants as there was a bakery right there, how can one
not stop! A nice town with a temporary fairground set up in the plaza, although
not many photo options to capture it. Continued onward to another village to
eat our spoils beside the river. Biked past a WW2 Canadian war cemetery, along
with a memorial to one soldier.
Beside a
busy road, looking across the river at a very industrial looking town of
Emmerich. Then continue on a flood bank bike/pedestrian path and stopped at the
town of Millingen aan de Rijn for lunch, we are now officially in the Netherlands.
The Aldi supermarket was small and had limited choice, no fresh bread, whilst
restaurants consisted of 2 ice-cream places, a bistro and luckily a chippie! So
chips for lunch, and they had a loo so even better! (we are finding Germany,
and will find Netherlands almost more so, have very limited or no public
toilets).
More flood
bank riding, very busy with bikes and walkers, before heading inland a bit
around a pond and onto path by roads. Kept seeing a mass of Citroen 2CV’s
buzzing about, obviously on a club run.
Staying in
a farm campground, on outskirts of Nijmegen, which is quite a cool campsite and
very busy. The farm buildings converted with facilities but still obviously a
working horse farm. There is a GP Motocross event on in the area, at Berg en
Dal, so everything is quite busy. We walked out seeking dinner, struggled to
find something due to a combination of closed, too expensive (E60-80 per main)
or no tables available. We returned to the one that had advised they only had
outside tables (and it is quite cold) to say we would take it, and they advised
they could fit us inside now… bonus, huge meat-based meals with small amount of
vegetables.
The
campground was at the top of a hill, including us having to push bikes up at
one point… totally unexpected for the Netherlands, thought it was flat!!
24
August, Sunday. 73km, 18C
9am
departure after a reasonable nights sleep, Caro had lots of cramps though. Riding
bike paths located by roads (amazing cycle infrastructure in the Netherlands)
to Nijmegen, by passing the old part of town (the oldest city in the Netherlands)
and crossing over the Waal River (effectively still part of the Rhine, it
splits into various named watercourses).
Very busy
paths this morning with walkers, dog walkers, bikers, runners, rollerbladers (she
passed us, is that allowed/admissible!!). Flood bank paths initially, then onto
some quieter roads, a ferry crossing over a channel to arrive in Wageningen and
a supermarket lunch. Spotting a few sheep, cattle and lots of horses.
After lunch
we are riding beside the Nederrijn River before lifting and zig zagging our way
through National Park Forest, Oaks and Rowan Trees, lots and lots and lots of
paths with many people out walking or biking. Once out of the forest, which had
lots of ups and downs, we were biking through farmland of maize, cattle in
sheds. Also spotting several large mansion type buildings dotted around the countryside.
Arrived at
our cinema hotel in the town of Wijk bij Duurstede 4:30pm. A lovely town with a
square and all the central streets brick paved, the houses predominately brick
also. A nice dinner then a walk around the town and flood protection walls, views
of the windmills by the river.
25
August, Monday. 65km, 22C
After a lovely
hotel breakfast we wound our way out of town, and then a ferry crossing of a small
offshoot of the river (Lek) which was a car/truck ferry also. Then a nice
countryside ride, some cattle, maize and huge amounts of pear trees… with amazing
amounts of pears on the trees. The pears being picked in a couple of places but
there is a huge amount still to do.
Stopped at the
small town of Geldermalsen for bakery supplies when we spotted a bakery, the
town has a harbor with lots of small boats as canal there. Continued following
and winding around canal paths, past a windmill and lots of pear orchards.
Lunch stop in Leerdam… seeing it for ages (the church spire) but wound around channels
to get there so seemed to take ages to arrive!
Arrived at
Vuren and our amazing accommodation for the night. An 18th century
fort constructed of solid brick walls (multi layer) and registered as a UNESCO
heritage site. A circular fort, converted to a hotel and under new management,
it was quite interesting... our room in the outer circle whilst the inner “round
house” was open for inspection with interpretation panels of the history of the
fort which is located beside the Waal River.
Biked into the
town of Gorinchem for dinner, a nice town with a canal running through the central
part of town. A nice area, a great find for our night!
Apparently
all the brickwork, houses, building and roading is because the Netherlands has
lots of clay but not much gravel. It also serves a double purpose on the
streets as it slows traffic down.
26
August, Tuesday. 44km, 26C
No rush
this morning as we had to wait for the first ferry of the day which was 10:50am
from just beside the fort/hotel. Crossed over to Woudrichem before riding flood
bank path mainly, going into the town of Werkendam to get lunch supplies from the
supermarket.
Lots and
lots of bikers on the paths, a lot of older day trippers. Get a few hello’s,
although more likely when we are stopped. Followed quiet road through rural
land… maize, onions lifted, cabbages, potatoes and early in the day huge
complexes of glass houses.
Did a big
loop through wetlands and national park De Biebosch, all the signage, park
headquarters, information etc in Dutch so not much point stopping but
interesting to cycle through.
2 ferry
crossings for the day, one a very small crossing over a polder canal on a
dedicated bike/walk tiny ferry manned by a lovely older couple and the other a
larger car ferry crossing the Beneden Merwede waterway which had barges on it.
More
riverbank riding, over a canal, past a golf course and arrived at our hostel
about 4pm near the town of Dordrecht. A busy hostel but a room to ourselves and
utilised the ability to buy our evening meal in-house. Not much else in the
immediate area to the hostel anyway.
27
August, Wednesday. 66km, 18C
Skirted the
very edge of Dordrecht following our post breakfast departure 8:30am and rode
into the countryside. The odd windmill (old) dotted about, a few cattle, maize,
hay and silage still being harvested.
Rode the path
to Kinderdijk which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. 19 windmills dating from
1740 which have been/are used to pump the excess water from the land to the
rivers, canals and out to sea.
Much of the
Netherlands, particularly north, has had this treatment and remains doing so to
this day… if it didn’t huge areas would be permanently under water as 26% of the
country actually sits below sea level. The huge and complex system of polders,
pumps, canals and dykes is all part of the mechanics of getting the water out
to sea.
The
Kinderdijk site is very impressive and picturesque, very much on the tourist
trail with large visitor centre, tour barges viewing the windmills etc but luckily,
we are there relatively early so able to get uninterrupted photos. Buses were just
arriving along with large numbers of people disembarking off the ferry from
Rotterdam.
We went
against the flow, catching a 10-minute ride on a fast ferry to Rivium Capelle
a/d Jssl then biked around beside Nieuwe Maas (Rhine still basically!) into the
centre of Rotterdam. Wound through the old area, although this is not very big
as the city was bombed to oblivion by Germany May 1940 in a successful effort to
get the Netherlands to capitulate, and into the central city. The architecture
is eye-catching with lots of free licence… not many design guidelines.
Found lunch
at a small café slightly off the centre, then rode out of the city largely on
paths following Nieuwe waterway. Large industry/ports all down the river (Rotterdam
is one of the world’s busiest ports) and passing the Maeslantkering River
Barrier system to protect Rotterdam from North Sea flooding. The barrier is a
monumental storm surge barrier completed in 1997 for €450 million, it protects
the port and city of Rotterdam from North Sea floods and is one of the largest
moving structures on Earth. Very impressive looking bit of kit! Biked up the
large man-made hill overlooking, and part of, the structure… lots of people about,
including one chap driving his immaculately restored large International
Tractor.
Arrived at the Hook of Holland, and the end of the Rhine… we
have done it, followed it from source to sea!
The Hook of Holland was a big surprise really, Lots of
cafes, restaurants and a long stretch of sandy beach with lots of people
swimming and sunbathing. Also holiday accommodation units overlooking the beach
and the river (with it’s view across to the large industrial sites of mass
pipes and belching smoke out of huge chimneys).
We took some obligatory photo’s of our bikes at the signs
and then made our way back the 2 km to our hotel beside the ferry terminal
(major port for cross channel ferries to the UK). A very nice hotel, and we ate
at the adjoining restaurant Torpedoloods… which is in a converted German storehouse
for torpedo’s from WW2. There are also a number of bunkers and defense system
remains nearer the end of the river.
A day of great variation!
28 August, Thursday. 62km, 18C
9:45am departure and a quick visit to the supermarket over
the road for supplies. Then out to the Hook of Holland and north on cycle paths
that wind between the coast the dunes… undulating their way amongst the dunes
and coastal scrub. Passing towns and countryside covered with huge tunnel
houses (flowers?). The cycle path sealed and paved with bricks the whole way.
Multiple access points to the beach, and many cafes.
Continued up the coast, skirting beside Den Hague, and stopped
at Scheveningen overlooking the beach, a ferris wheel, helter skelter and
amusements at one end. A chap stopped and chatted for a while about our trip;
he was a bike packer in his day.
The sky is threatening, very dark with a bit of thunder
rolling around and rain threatening. Rode out of town and happily along a road
when thunder and lightening started right there… along with heavy rain. Luckily
there as a small National Park info board with tiny roof that we could shelter
under, along with 3 other bikers all scrunched in but mainly staying dry.
The shower
passed fairly quickly and with our weatherproofs on we ventured onward. Sealed
undulating path through the sandhills continuing, some gravel sections, and a
few bikers, walkers and horse riders about… a few trails disappearing off
either direction. Had to be watching the whole time for, quite large, snails on
the path after the rain… they make a crack if you hit them so desperately trying
to avoid them!
A stop at
Katwijk aa Zee, found a bakery and just as we purchased heavy rain came again.
So spent probably 30-40 minutes sheltering under their verandah but then it did
clear off with the sun making small appearances.
Rode on the
coastal side of Noordwijk and got to our destination of Zandvoort about 4:45pm…
although had to stop on our way into town as there was about 50 Ferrari’s all
lined up in a carpark together, a pretty impressive sight and largely
Netherlands registration plates along with Netherlands Ferrari Owners Club badging.
The Netherlands round of Formula One is on this weekend at the Zandvoort
circuit, we have been lucky to get a room, but it is the night before practice
day so most fans will only be arriving tomorrow.
We had
dinner at one of the beach side restaurants, but it is quite cold with wind.
Walked back to our small, but adequate, room via the downtown part which is all
set up as the F1 fan hub… pumping with boof boof music, shops selling
merchandise etc but our walk through made us feel quite old.
The town is
totally focused on it though, lots of bunting, flags etc and the waitress at
the restaurant told us that only resident’s vehicles are allowed inside the
town boundaries with busses available to move everyone around. Also noticeable
is lots of portaloo’s… given public loo’s have been non-existent to this point!
The coastal
towns as we rode today seem bland… but most were destroyed by the Germans to
build the Atlantic Wall Defense system, and many also destroyed by Allied bombs…
a lot of rebuilding in the 1950-60’s, apartment blocks etc and brick housing so
understandable.
29 August,
Friday. 53km, 19C
Departed
Zandvoort 8:45am and eastward towards Amsterdam. Immediately noticed we are in
the minority (ie only) cyclists heading that way, but meeting hundreds of
bikers coming out for the F1. The road crossing intersections are all manned to
control cars and allow the fans get through, and it is only practice day today
so imagine it will be amazing numbers over the weekend.
On cycle
paths pretty much the whole way, and it is pretty much built up all the way
with housing and industry. Haarlem seemed like a nice city with canals, houses
on canals etc.
Kept going
through to Amsterdam stopping for a pastry on the way, Amsterdam was very very
busy… lots and lots of bikes and lots and lots and lots of people. Just followed
our GPS which led us down a main street weaving through crowds and over canals
before around the side of the railway station and immediately onto a, free,
ferry over the Broekervaart waterway to Baiksloterweg in Noord Amsterdam. Total
surprise as Noel hadn’t even realised that was happening until GPS told us!
From there
led out into rural areas heading northeast following a smaller waterway towards
Monnickendam. There were a few dairy herds grazing, biggest numbers we have seen.
No fences but cows had collars so probably GPS fenced.
Riding
along canals, some nice clusters of housing… not brick houses but actual canal
houses, some of which on the other side appeared to mean you had to boat across
to reach them from your car. Some quite stylish flash houses amongst them.
We rode
down the bricked main street of Monnickendam which looked quite a cool town
before riding beside floodbanks that were being made taller as we got to our
destination of Volendum.
Volendum is
on the shores of the large inland lake Markemeer which was open to the sea
until construction of a dyke in 1732 made it fresh water of 3-5m depth.
Arrived
about 1:30pm and the town is heaving, being only 20mins drive from Amsterdam it
is a popular daytime/lunch destination. Filled in time, bakery lunch in the
town square before checking into our hotel around 2:45pm. The hotel overlooks the
waterfront promenade and has a restaurant underneath which we happily utilise
for dinner, after just staying in our room until the crowds dispersed, and also
because a rain shower meant it wasn’t appealing to go looking further afield.
Dinner was fine if a little old fashioned in its presentation, little dishes of
potatoes, vege etc.
A bit windy
and cold with rain still threatening, the rain is meant to be gone tomorrow but
still to be windy. We have pretty much crossed a country today.
30
August, Saturday. 58km, 16C
9am departure
after hotel breakfast, a bit wet and windy. Retraced our steps back to
Monnickendam to walk our bikes through the town Saturday market: fruit and
vege, cheese, baked goods, meat, fish etc.
Veered off
onto more coastal (by lake) edge for a while then turned inland encountering
some rain showers but not cold. Riding past many large dairy farms with the
cattle out grazing. Most farms have no fences, appearing to utilise the criss
crossing drainage channels as the field boundaries (although we did see one cow
standing in the channel, all her mates looking at her saying “ya stupid cow”),
some cows with collars so likely also GPS fenced. No water troughs, they just
drink from the channels.
Some of the
houses and gardens are located beside the channels, with no fencing, the water
lapping right there. Must be a hazard if you have toddlers! The farms don’t come
across as that clean, the smell is pretty pungent from some of the yards.
We cut a
small section off the suggested route as the weather wasn’t super conducive, so
it didn’t take long until we were skirting around the outskirts of Amsterdam.
Crossed the Buiten – IJ over a large bridge, a second bridge just after especially
just for walkers/bikers.
Lunch stop
at Muiden (yummy apple pie) … a lovely looking town with a canal passing
through with a lock system, and a lifting swing bridge for the passing, mainly
pleasure, boats. There was a castle (Muiderslot) on an island at the mouth of
the river, dating from 1280. It was destroyed in 1300 and then rebuilt
1370-1386. There is also defensive walls and a Muizenfort, barracks all dating
to period of the 1870 Franco-Prussian war.
Rode
through Muiderburg by the lake before a brief stop in Naarden, which is a town
within a star shaped fort and quite impressive… the road passing through the
centre. Skirted the west side of Bussum, which appeared to be quite a large city,
before paths led through forested areas and large wetland control areas. Passing
down one road of very flash houses, older style, before into the town of
Hilversum where we will stay for 3 nights in a hotel apartment, arriving 3:30pm.
Went out
for groceries and to grab some dinner. We are very close to the centre of town,
in an apartment complex aligned with but separate to a nearby hotel. It appears
to be an older complex, likely originally linked to the neighbouring church.
Bit of a
find for dinner, a food hall with a fantastic vibe… 7 or 8 food outlets, couple
of bars, and you just order from your table. Really good food.
Took our
bikes up into our 2nd floor apartment, complex doesn’t have separate
bike storage so into the room as there is plenty of room. We will also strip
the bikes of all their accessories over the next couple of days.
Noel has
worked out we have done 4000km this year, so on top of 2700km last year almost
7000km in total. The bikes have done well, so have we!!!
31 August,
Sunday. 12km, 23C
A very
quiet day today, starting off cloudy but warmed up early afternoon. Did a
machine wash and hung everything around the apartment in the hope it will dry…
room doesn’t get any sun due to its orientation.
Biked into
centre of town to get supermarket lunch then rode to nearby town of Laren to
see a VW car show (Noel had stumbled across the date on internet, so ideally
worked it in!). Not as big a show as possibly we expected given it was the Netherlands
VW Club but still worth a look.
Back to
apartment and just relaxed, both having bit of a sleep. Noel dismantled the
bikes, changed bike seats over, removed front racks, frame bags etc so should
be easy tomorrow. Dinner at food hall again, easy!
1
September, Monday. 33km, 19C (26C max)
A relaxed morning
before leaving 11am on our stripped down bikes after grabbing a quick
supermarket snack. Headed west and skirted around Lake Loosdrechtse Plassen.
Stopped at village of Loenen aan de Vecht to eat our spoils, very pretty place
set along a the canal Vecht. There was a manned lift bridge, traffic stopped to
allow boats to pass. Seemed a busy bridge as it closed 3 times for the brief
time we were there.
Continued
on following the canal, some very large and flash houses as well as stylish
apartment complexes… so pricey real estate we are guessing. Also, some floating
houses, windows down at water level on some. Veered into countryside again, and
passing some more 1780’s forts… there was a lot of them to control any potential
water invasion.
Arrived in
city of Utrecht around 2:30pm and dropped our bikes, including side panniers,
off at “BikeFlip” charity… a bit sad!! (attendant offered to give us a couple
of minutes with them to say goodbye!!!). They have served us amazingly well,
and they are probably now being pedaled around the Netherlands somewhere by
some needy folk.
Walked into
the centre of Utrecht stopping for lunch at a Bagel café on the way. The old
town part of Utrecht is stunning; canal lined with heritage buildings and the nearby
St Martin Cathedral. St Martin is a gothic church established during the Middle
Ages. The first chapel was founded 630AD then over following centuries was
repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. The city is very busy with tourists, also
lots of uni students and looks like they are doing orientation events circulating
with question sheets.
Grabbed a
train back to Hilversum… so easy with no bikes! Out to the food hall for
dinner, it works very well and there is a beautiful variety of food available.
2
September, Tuesday
Packed up
smartly this morning before a walk around Hilversum centre, a lot bigger than
we had realised. Purchased a Bedankt (Thank you) card for the house-sitters, as
Fleur is Dutch.
Checked out
then caught 11:23am train to Amsterdam Schiphol Airport arriving before 12. We
have a rental car booked for 3pm, but there is a huge queue at the rental counter...
so went away for an hour or 2 grabbing some lunch and checking out the airport.
Came back around 2 and there was no queue. Noel went up and although our
prebooked car was not yet available, they offered a Yaris instead, so said yep
that will do.
However, when
got to pick up point the staff there knew nothing about a Yaris, and after some
discussion gave us a bigger car with GPS so we actually ended up better off than
what we had booked, bonus!
On the
road, bit of mismothering for a start and heading wrong way on motorway but
soon got us corrected and away we went… fast! Well, compared to the bikes we
have got used to it is. 100km/hr limits although some sections it lifted to
130km/hr.
Got to our
destination of Goes around 5pm and to out BnB apartment in a converted barn,
very nice. Seems like it would be a wedding/function venue also. Drove into the
town of Goes for dinner and a walk around, trying to rain and not very warm. A
lovely town though with a picturesque harbor.
3 September,
Wednesday.
Dreary looking
morning, breakfast 7am and on the road shortly after 8am so arrived at Dunkirk,
France, about 10:20am, roads not too busy.
Went to
Museum Dunkerque 1940 Operation Dynamo. A well laid out museum describing the
events of the evacuation of troops. Different sections in the museum of artefacts
and relating to list of Indian soldiers, then UK, French and Belgium soldiers
too. Very interesting and just staggering the numbers evacuated of 338,000 over
8 days, although some not successful due to continuous enemy beach and ship
bombing.
The museum
is housed in an old fort originally built in 1874 and was used as a command
post for the 1940 evacuations. The Allied troops had withdrawn to this area
after German advances could not be held back, it was extremely lucky that so many
were saved due to a combination of a couple of mis-steps on the part of the Germans
and favourable cloudy conditions. Hundreds of civilian small boats from the UK
assisted the Navy vessels.
We went for
a short walk along the beach and promenade, which now houses hotels and
restaurants, but it was windy and not very pleasant so didn’t dawdle.
Headed back
to Brugge in Belgium driving in heavy rain and also still raining on arrival.
GPS got us into Brugge but then it got confused with one-way systems, parked up
for a bit for the rain to ease and then got directions sorted. Although 2 hours
early for check-in the manager was very helpful, getting us parked in our paid
garage, letting us check-in early and giving us a map and many suggestions on
things to do.
A cuppa as
the rain stopped then out for a walk 4pm’ish. What a stunning old town,
occupied by Germany in both WW1 and WW2 but sustained little damage. Every
street corner seemed to have a wow moment, lots of different squares/plaza’s, canals,
churches. Streets all lined with shops of chocolate, waffles, nougat, beer, ice
cream and tat!
We stopped
at a Frites place (Belgium fries, a speciality) as it was looking like heavy
rain and we were getting tired, for a beer and chips! A very big snack so it
became an early dinner for us.
Once weather
cleared, we did more meandering, ending up by a large canal with 4 windmills,
then up another smaller canal to get back to our hotel 8:15pm… shortly hearing
rain on the roof so perfect timing.
A stunning
town, that we had visited in 1988 on the start of our European motorcycle trip
but hadn’t done as much exploring then. Very much a tourist destination but it
wasn’t too bad as we are now in the shoulder season, in fact by 6:30pm it was
quiet and most of the shops shut.
4 September,
Thursday.
8am
breakfast then we checked out but left our bags and went for a walk back to the
main square and area. Found a grocery shop and sorted out/purchased some
chocolate for gifts, brands as determined by Reddit.
Back and
collected bags and car and away by 10:30am, heading out of town struck a hold
up at one of the canal lifting bridges where a canal boat/barge appeared to be
jammed and hence causing a large queue of waiting traffic. Did a bit of a U-turn
and down a side street and GPS redirected us over a different bridge then back
on track.
Out of the city
and then onto highway again after some sections of rural road. Definitely a
truck highway, hundreds of them, but everything was flowing well all the way
back to Amsterdam. A stop at a BP to refuel, a quick stop for some food, and
then followed the signs back to drop the rental back no problem.
Waiting a
while for hotel shuttle from airport, it quickly filled up once it arrived, including
2 dogs in cages which took up a bit of space! Dropped at our pre-booked Ibis
hotel 3:45pm, both hungry so walked to a nearby McDonalds (not much else in
area) then a bit of repacking before a hamburger meal within the hotel… it
filled a gap! A quiet night.
Our Europe
time is over, it has been an amazing 3.5 months… at times a bit stressful
planning, and particularly trains with bikes, but such fun overall. Well and truly a trip to remember.
