2020 Biking Epic part IV - Up and over

10 September Thursday: Day 17

Stats: Karamea to Lewis Hut Heaphy track: 41 kms: 9.6kph

This morning started off promising then it rained as predicted… quite heavy rain!!

We’ve managed to pack everything on our bikes and have avoided using backpacks, which is great. An easy bike ride of 15 kms to the start of the Heaphy track. It’s really heavy rain now. After a banana, toilet stop and photographing some tramper's about to start (we offered, they were most appreciative), we were off, it was 11.30am. Noel has walked this track 30 something years ago but for me it’s a whole new experience!!

The first part was very rocky and very steep, up and down and it’s still very wet. There was a bit of walking/pushing happening and I was worried the tramper's behind us would catch us up. Met a group of older bikers that had varying body parts bleeding (not profusely), very little gear as they had helicoptered into the start of the track the day before and were desperate to finish the track... they’d have been in Karamea by (late) lunchtime.  I’m thinking this might not be a Caro type of adventure.

Stunning coastal scenery, sandy beaches, boulder beaches and Nikua palms. Stunning but too wet for photo’s!! Stopped at a shelter, about half way to Heaphy Hut, for lunch (12.30ish pm). There was a German backpacker also sheltering there, complete with a day pack and shopping bags. He’d seen a kiwi at Perry saddle hut.

Stunning coastal scenery, albeit a tad wet and cold to enjoy it completely

Didn’t stop for long as the cold was seeping in to us, still pouring. The track was easier riding, a less rocky surface, less steep ups and downs, through Nikua forests, absolutely stunning!! May have to do this bit again sometime on a fine day!!

Arrived at the Heaphy Hut about 1.30pm and warmed up by the fire for ½ an hour. There was 1 couple there and more arriving as we left. The rain was clearing too, as predicted. We headed away from the coast following the Heaphy river, a narrow track but less tricky than earlier, muddy in places though.

Arrived at the Lewis hut and unpacked and changed as everything was damp to sodden. A couple were there who owned/worked for a local guiding company. They were setting up with utensils etc as this hut is a lunch stop for their, yet to begin summer, tours. They left for the Heaphy hut at about 5 pm so we are on our own and since it is getting dark it’s unlikely anyone else will turn up.

Drying out, warming up

It’s an older hut with a row of mattresses on bunk benches, it’s got gas elements, some pots and a coal pot belly which works but is not roaring. We have hung all of today’s clothes up to dry. We went for a walk back to the swing bridge hoping to spot a kiwi, we could hear one and we saw big kiwi footprints by the river but unfortunately no kiwi to be seen.

There is a very small candle for light so it’s an early night for us. Really appreciate having the hut to ourselves. All track huts, throughout the country, are on limited booking spaces due to Covid. This allows 'social distancing' so only half occupied at maximum anyway. 

It’ll be a big day for us tomorrow.

11 September Friday: Day 18

Stats: Lewis Hut to Perry Saddle Hut Heaphy track: 37kms: 6kph

A very tough day!!!

Up at 6.30am, luckily most of our stuff has dried. I had added a few lumps of coal on my middle of the night toilet expedition. I slept pretty well, but still tired as finding the track surface needs a lot of concentration.

Left the hut just before 8am and the climbing started immediately. Started off quite well with a good surface. I had huge trouble with almost all the bridges, going uphill most had lips to get onto and I wasn’t going quick enough to get over that lip so had to get off and push each and every one. When I say bridges, they are just small and cover the various water channels removing water from the track sides. The majority of bikers do the track in the opposite direction and hence the reason for the lip on the bottom side of each bridge.

There was a, reasonably large, tree across the track which must’ve happened during last nights stormy weather. We had to lift the bikes over, very tricky!! Pleased Noel was there with his muscles!? (EDITORS NOTE: aww shucks!)

"You shall not pass!!"... tree over track, time for some technical thinking to pass it

Met 3 hikers on their way down the hill and there were 2 at James McKay hut. It took us (me mostly)  nearly 3 hours to get up that hill….a huge effort!!! Stopped at the hut for soup and crackers, ideal!!

Looking from James McKay hut back to whence we came (mouth of the Heaphy River visible on the coast)

A smoother, quicker ride to Saxon hut, meeting a few hikers on the way. The hut was a lunch stop for lots of people but we still saw the resident Takahe grazing on the lawn…very cool!!! As we left the hut 1 DOC worker, that was checking traps, was waiting for a helicopter to pick her up.

Rode through some cool limestone country and could see a big cave/arch in the distance. It was a reasonable track to the Gouland Downs hut. Saw 2 Takahe crossing the track just prior to the hut. There were several DOC staff waiting on a helicopter, some flying out, some staying.

It was 7 kms to the Perry Saddle hut, I was getting pretty tired. The surface was quite rocky (big rocks) and uphill so I probably walked the last 3 kms to the hut.

The hut was a welcome sight, getting there 5.30ish pm. 2 people already there and another 6 mountain bikers turned up later. The hut is relatively new so it had solar lights as well as a coal fire and gas stoves. Cooked dinner, drank tea ate chocolate etc and an early'ish night. A couple of other people arrived with head torches on then a couple more after we went to bed.

We’re both knackered , it’s been a pretty big day!!!

12 September Saturday: Day 19

Stats: Perry Saddle hut to Collingwood: 52 kms:13kph

I didn’t sleep so well, but can’t blame our room full of people as they were very quiet. They were up by 6.30am, so we did too. We were breakfasted and packed by 8.30am . We looked positively overpacked compared to the other bikers, most of who were shuttled by plane one way and biking back. Got some sideways looks because of this until one asked us... and were stunned that we had biked there from Arrowtown!!

Left our pot behind, turns out we didn’t need it, we would have got by with what was in the huts anyway.

Quite a cold wind blowing. The first half down was quite a rocky surface, hard to negotiate, so there was a bit of walking. Once it got a bit easier it was fine, probably a third of the way down. Arrived at Brown hut about 11.30am. Met quite a few bikers, 1 big group doing the whole thing, 1 couple doing a day trip and some mountain runners with not much gear so they must’ve been doing the whole track in a day perhaps... mad!

Back on an actual road, gravel at first. Up a steep hill, ouch. Stopped to see a swing bridge historic site on the Aorere river. Then onto Bainham and Langfords store (world famous in Bainham... no, actually appears of few calendar photo's etc), which is an eclectic mix of antiques and other stuff for sale, and a café famous for it’s Devonshire teas. We had an ice cream and soaked up the glorious day!! This whole area is dairy farms, the calves are out in the fields, the stock and farmland look great.

Arrived in Collingwood about 3.30pm. Quite buggered!!! Very pleased to be here and getting a very warm welcome at Collingwood Park Motel. The motel lady checked to see if we could do the Farewell Spit bus tour tomorrow, sadly we can’t because the social distancing is still in place at Covid Level 2 and they can only take half their normal numbers. However Paddy, the chap that runs the tours turned up before he closed to say he’d rejigged the seating and had space for us, yay!!!

So booked a 2^nd night at the motel. Got our laundry washed and dried too which is always a bonus.

Went for a short walk through the town. Collingwood is in a stunning location, lovely sandy beaches to the north and south. Dinner at the Collingwood tavern.

The Heaphy track is the longest “great walk” in NZ, quite a bit of variety , fabulous to see Takahe particularly but all the bird life in general. Nice to see the older tramping huts still operational, and obviously a popular track for day trippers from either end. Maybe I would bike it the other way, I’d be very keen to bike or walk from the Karamea start to the Heaphy hut, that coastline would be spectacular on a fine day!!

13 September Sunday: Day 20

Stats: None …another day off!!

We were very lucky to get booked on this tour to Farewell Spit yesterday, so really appreciate the opportunity... and we are not disappointed.

With Paddy our driver/guide and 9 other passengers we left at 8.30am, (leaving times vary according to the tides). Picked up 1 extra at the locked gate at Puponga, triangle flat. You can  park here and walk on 4 kms of the spit, but our tour has the only vehicle access allowed. Farewell Spit became a World Heritage site 13 August 1976.

It was windy, Paddy estimated 30-35 knots, so the sand was flying along the surface. Getting to the north side of the beach the bus got stuck in the soft sand, everybody had to get off the bus and the men pushed it onto firmer ground. (EDITORS NOTE: aww shucks again!)

Went to Fossil Point, the most west we could go on the beach, impressive with it’s rocks and caves. Then east to the Farewell Spit lighthouse which was first opened in 1870 with a wooden structure  and replaced in 1897 by the current steel structure. It is the 2^nd tallest lighthouse in NZ at 27metres.... although hard to realise it is as it sits on pretty much flat land one a couple of metres above sea level! Macrocarpa trees planted around the houses make it a sheltered hot spot at ground level. Had a cuppa in one of the lighthouse keepers house. The lighthouse was automated in 1984 so the houses are well preserved and still used as accommodation for research purposes.

We then headed east of the lighthouse to see Gannets flying in. There’s a colony there and spring is when the numbers increase and nesting activity begins. Some Gannets were flying with seaweed in their beaks for their nests, must be strong flyers as the wind was very strong. Also saw Cassaway Terns, which are quite big, Black Oyster Catchers and  a seal lying on the beach. Also after leaving the beach and passing an estuary there was some Spoonbills.

Climbed a sand dune and ran down, the wind was crazy strong, we could hardly stand up!

We drove back to Triangle flat and around to Cape Farewell, a formidable place in rough weather I expect. An absolutely brilliant tour, getting back to Collingwood at about 2.30pm.

Cape Farewell.... last point of NZ viewed by Captain Cook and his crew as they departed after their discovery circumnavigation of New Zealand in the 1700's

Had a late lunch from our leftovers. Getting quite windy and cold here now so just relaxed and did a bit of reading.

Tonight we went along to the food cart for burgers, it was meant to be open until 7pm but it was closed, too cold for patrons probably as well as the lowered numbers about due to Covid. So dinner at Mad Café, a slightly alternative place, the food was lovely. A brief walk to the end of a street to see the lighthouse working.

Heading to Takaka tomorrow, looks like rain is coming too unfortunately!!

2020 Biking Epic part III - Top of the Coast

6 September Sunday: Day 13 (Fathers day)

Stats: None …a rest day !!!!

Woke to pouring rain. Which didn’t stop until lunchtime, then the sun came out and it was quite warm. The gardens here have lemon trees growing in them, so no frosts here!

Had a restful, longer than usual sleep in. Then went to the supermarket for breakfast/lunch things and some wool wash for our laundry. Just a lazy morning really, got our washing washed and dried, Noel adjusted Heaphy track hut bookings, paid some invoices and caught up on some correspondence. We’ve been using the Lilliput/community share libraries to get and exchange books as we go , works out great although the overall choice is based on book size more than subject!! (ie our bikes can't handle carrying a full set of the Encyclopaedia Britannica)

After lunch we went for a walk down the street. Then followed a walkway to the sea. A very rough looking sea and a wood/tree/driftwood strewn beach showing a rough sea is not unusual. The tide must have been mostly in, and the Buller river was flowing full with some sizable tree branches flowing out to sea. The waves were wild. There were a lot of people, mainly locals, driving the spit to watch the sea/river, a Sunday pastime perhaps??

Interesting to note, although completely understandable, the rather sad memorials to the fishermen/boaties lost at sea. Epitomised by a memorial on the end of the Westport spit, where the Buller river meets the Tasman sea.

Back to the hostel for a cuppa. We’ve booked to go to the movie RAMS this afternoon, a Father’s Day special screening, we’d seen the shorts in Arrowtown recently and thought it would be funny. Turned out to be not so funny and not what we expected but it was quite good.... as well as a sum total crowd of 4 people watching, so not such a special result for the theatre.

Had dinner at Johnny’s restaurant which was busy with father’s Day diners but starting to empty out by the time we arrived there. This place was recommended by Graham as it is run by another FIL company person and his wife. It was a lovely meal, and we had a quick chat with Johnny (and his wife) before heading home.

The rather imposing YHA hostel in Westport

That was our rest day, tomorrow a 50km ride to Seddonville awaits.

7 September Monday: Day 14

Stats: Westport to Seddonville: 52 kms 16.2 kph.

Back to our 7am starts, and to the supermarket to sort breakfast.

We were packed up by 9.30am and after chatting with the owner, an ex fisherman, we left. We cruised the main street op shops looking for a saucepan we could use on the Heaphy track. Found a $5 one in the SPCA shop, perfect!!!

Headed north through farmland and life style blocks. We could see Denniston Plateau in the hills to the east. A historic area open to the public  however up a steep road.  Coal is still mined at the nearby Cascade mine and Stockton which is NZ’s largest  open cast mine. We were being passed by, and could see, truck and trailer units going up to the mine. But it seemed like one hill too many so we rode on past the turnoff, …one day maybe when we have a motor attached!!

Once we got to the township of Granity we followed the coast. Granity is right on the coast and the school has been on TV as they are losing their grounds to coastal erosion. The town has houses all along the seafront and huge rock reinforcing has been done. There didn’t seem to be any public beach access until we were out of town. Not much in the town itself, a closed down café was about it’s lot.

Continued to Ngakawau (merges with Hector), and stopped at it’s visitor centre and then at an old pub for lunch. Lunch options were limited so opted for wedges and sat outside in the 'almost' sunshine to eat. The town is the northern point of the Stockton open cast mine. It still is a  huge coal mining operation, big buckets of coal being moved by gondola down the hill. The coal then being transported by rail to Lyttleton.

Stockton mine processing plant, look closely to spot the large gondola's bringing coal down from the mine

From Ngakawau we followed rugged sea/coastline for a bit then lifted into native bush clad hills. There was some very smart new housing between Ngakawau and Mokihinua. Rode into Mokihinua as it was off the main road. It is a small beach settlement mainly holiday houses and a campground. The beach/sea doesn’t look the most hospitable for a holiday settlement.

Carried on to Seddonville, a small settlement of a pub/motel and a campground in a farming (dairy) valley. Originally a coal mining area, then a timber milling area and now it’s the nearest civilisation to the start/finish of the Old Ghost Road cycle/hike trail.

Sat and ate our bread while we waited for the pub owner to open at 4pm. A quite nice motel unit attached to the hotel. Dinner tonight at the pub at which the owner/motel manager/barman cooked. Talked to a few locals and 3 others also staying, 1 Queenstown, 1 Christchurch and 1 White baiter. The pub is for sale (like many we have seen) but we imagine it is probably a reliable business being just on the end of the Old Ghost Road trail... particularly over summer.

The day off yesterday didn’t seem to do either of us much good, we’re both a bit achy in different bits tonight. I’m a bit disappointed that with nearly 2 weeks cycling and a day off I’m feeling a bit lethargic today, when does the fit and strong feeling kick in??? Apparently we have a big hill up and down, up and down tomorrow morning…well we’ve been warned!!!

8 September Tuesday: Day 15

Stats: Seddonville to Karamea: 57kms 14 kph

We’ve been gone 2 weeks today ,wow!!

Our owner/barman etc (literally chief cook and bottle washer!) cooked us breakfast and then we left at about 8.45 am. Back down the road we arrived on yesterday afternoon's turnoff after about 2 kms. Saw a roadside squashed Weka about the same spot that we stopped yesterday and photographed a live one …hmm??

So a climb up the Karamea Bluff, which was what we were warned about last night. It was just head down and pedal,  quite brutal zig zags to 420m above sea level and we literally started at sea level!. It’s a bit ominous when you could hear a vehicle coming down toward us then silence as the sound got lost in the corners.

Puff is right, can only agree with the wag who changed the summit sign from "Karamea Bluff"

At the top you could see where we had been yesterday, Mokihinua, and also lots of white baiter’s on the river below. Whitebait season on the West Coast only started 1 September and ends 30 October so white baiters have been out in force on the rivers, on the roads with Utes loaded with 4 wheelers, nets and chilly bins . We’ve even managed to eat some, yum!! The lady in the last nights next door motel unit was booked in for a month and whitebaits 5am to 5pm every day…serious stuff!!

After conquering the Bluff we zig zagged down to the flat of Corbyvale then up again over Taffytown hill, and then thorough bush and out onto dairy country .

Stopped at Little Wanganui tavern for lunch. A very tidy pub with a campground attached. Recently though by an English couple, very nervous having taken it over in these Covid times when we chatted to them. A really nice place so good luck to them!!

Continued along flat road with the coastline in view. All dairy farms , very tidy and the stock looked great, lovely looking farmland. Smarter/newer homes too so maybe a prosperous area.

Arrived in Karamea about 2pm and went to the visitors centre to enquire about the caves/arches of Oparara basin in the Kahurangi National Park’. A very informative lady helped us, she was shocked at our bike expedition, thought we were totally mad!!  Anyway works out the way to see the most is to drive to the trailhead, then take a guided tour of the Honeycomb cave in the morning, the only way to see the cave is with a guide. We can then do the arch walk and a bit of exploring by ourselves in the afternoon. She booked us onto a tour and organised us a rental car which will be delivered to our accommodation tonight. Easy!!! Turns out Karamea has been busy with NZ tourists all winter which is usually their quiet time.

Biked down to the Karamea Village hotel, our accommodation for 2 nights but it was closed until 3pm so biked to the end of the road to an estuary track where we ate our vegemite sandwiches. Back to the hotel and checked in to a motel type unit, older and roomy. While Noel showered I biked back to the towns 4 square and purchased some breakfast supplies.

The rental car was delivered to our door, so we were able to drive to the towns main beach to watch a stunning sunset. The beach is a long stretch of sand and round rocks of various colours. The beach seemingly not as wild as Westport or Mokihinua beaches.

Back to the hotel for a lovely meal.

I’m feeling better on the bike today. Noel is really suffering, his bony bum not having enough padding :), so finding his seat very uncomfortable after a short time riding. Saddle soreness, chaffing, I’m goggling seat settings to see if height, angles and such should be adjusted.

Looking forward to tomorrow. The info lady was reassuring about the Heaphy track too, so feeling better about our lay day booked. There will be options if the Heaphy is too ambitious for us.

9 September Wednesday: Day 16

Stats: None!!

A day in the Karamea area with a rental car.

Left hotel at 8.40am for the Oparara Basin about ¾ hour north, firstly up sealed road then 16 kms of winding gravel road bordered by bush.

Arrived at the top carpark and our guide Cliff was already there as was an American couple. A UK couple turned up soon after. Both other couples were Covid refugees, having been in NZ from shortly before lockdown and making the decision to stay touring for an extended stay rather than return to their home countries.

We walked into the Honeycomb Hill Caves, which is guided tour only access, which took around ¾ of an hour to reach. Our guide pointing out all the NZ natives trees, Coprosmas are from the coffee family …who knew?? The USA lady on the tour putting the NZ natives to shame with her plant knowledge!!

Entered the caves with our helmets and lights on and spent about an hour underground. It was stunning, nothing too tight to squeeze through. We saw stalactite's, sink holes, elephant feet (bacterial growths), moa bones, deer bones (fell through tomo’s), giant snail shells ( also fallen through tomo’s) and glow worms. Amazing big cave system, some tributaries fenced off for research purposes.

Moa skeleton, would have fallen through a Tomo (hole) into the cave system hundreds of years ago

Walking back to the carpark we watched a helicopter bringing in a water tank for a new toilet block. Back at the carpark we were given a cup of tea and cakes, Anzac biscuits, Louise square and other NZ treats.

After our cuppa we were on our own again. Walked into the Oparara Arch, a huge open ended cave with river flowing through and a separated arch at one end ….stunning!! Walked the Moria gate/mirror tarn link track (1 hour), The Moria arch was just stunning seen by climbing down underneath it. We then walked over it but you couldn’t tell until you got a distance away and looked back. It’s a much photographed area that often appears in NZ calendars. Continued on the Mirror tarn loop which is a reflective lake, but it’s very dark from all the tannins.

Time to reflect!

We caught a glimpse of a pair of Whio (blue duck) disappearing around the corner of the river we were following. Then we were out on the road and crossing a bridge when we spotted another pair cruising under the bridge, bums up feeding off the bottom ….we were soo close to them, a highlight to see such a rare species!!

Drove up to the far carpark and it was a 5 minute walk into Box Canyon, which is a huge open sea like cave. Then to Crazy Paving Caves where the bottom of the cave is like a  dried  mud pattern.

Back to the motel to make up a shopping list for the Heaphy. And down to the 4 Square on a shopping expedition, food to last the next 2 ½ days, there’ll be no pubs in sight! Mission accomplished we came back to the hotel and rang the rental car people to return it… no hurry as they advised it’ll be picked up in the morning. Dinner at the hotel again but out of roast dinners so burger it had to be.... the hardship!

Desperately trying to dry bike shorts that we washed last night. Today was coldish (10-12C) with no sun, so nothing dried at all. We’ve cracked up the heater now to speed things up.

A fascinating day off the bike, the muscles still hurt a bit if stretched though?? The Heaphy tomorrow, with a forecast of rain tomorrow morning or all day depending which forecast one reads, but looking fine for the next 3 days after …here’s hoping!!!

Our motel unit doesn’t lock and we’ve been told to leave the rental car keys in the visor …must be a reasonably safe place to live!!!

2020 Biking Epic part II - North by west

1 September Tuesday: Day 8

Stats: Franz Josef township to Whataroa: 42 kms 16kph

After rain last night and just maybe some fresh snow we woke to quite a nice day. Cooked breakfast in a huge well equipped kitchen. Left at 9.15 am, the 70mm’s of predicted rain for today had either passed thru early or not eventuated.

A lovely ride with up’s and down’s past Lake Mapourika and Lake Wahapo where we stopped for snacks. We continued on through farmland. Crossed a sweeping bridge over the Wahapo river and suddenly the day changed, a head wind started up and very dark thunder like clouds appeared to the west …eek…!!! We biked into the head wind with the rain getting closer. At one point we had a cross wind that nearly put me off the road and there was definitely lightning and thunder getting closer to us.

Arrived at the Whataroa store with the first few drops of rain, but just in time, as the wind increased and there was a huge bolt of lightning and a huge thunder clap ,and hail. We sat in the unheated, very sparse, not overly friendly store/café but it did have indoor tables. Spent some time eating a pie , then a hot drink, then some loaf, watching the pouring rain and gale force wind for 2 hours. Also watched an electricity work crew that was working opposite the store,  pack up and leave for the day. Weighing up our options we decided it would be best to stay put for the night even though it was only lunchtime. The motel across the road was closed with a phone number on the door.... but no-one was answering. Then a couple of calls to Hari Hari to check what accommodation was there, again no answers. Turns out the phone lines are probably out because of the lightning.

The store was shutting at 2.30pm …hmm a dilemma with no phone contact anywhere. Decided to bike on, but going outside the weather was horrendous, very windy, artic temperatures and still very wet ….I was instantly frozen! I went to check the motel again, closed, and Noel went the other direction to check an old hotel that had been turned into a backpackers, closed. He asked at a garage (only other business open in Whataroa), if there were any accommodation options. Luckily the garage owner pointed out an Airbnb about 100 m down the road and said if we didn’t have any luck there come back and he’d find us something.

So we bought eggs and bread from the store that was about to close and biked to the Airbnb and knocked on the door. A startled lady, Heather, answered the door and yes her rental was available and clean and perfect. So hunkered down for the afternoon/evening and so very grateful to have a warm place to stay!! As the rain stopped and the cloud cleared later in the afternoon we could see fresh snow on the mountains ahead of us tomorrow.

The storm has swept up the South Island bringing snow (20cms at Coronet) to Queenstown and the central South Island. Hopefully it has passed through, the forecast is fine for the next 2 days , fingers crossed!!!

2 September Wednesday: Day 9

Stats: Whataroa to Ross: 79kms:17kph

Woke to a fine, no wind, kind of day. After eggs and toast we left. A beautiful morning , we rode through Whataroa, there’s not much to it, 2 motels probably both shut, one of which is for sale . There was a B and B a bit further on but who knew?? (it could have been suitable for us, if we had known and could have forced our way through the weather to make it)

What a difference over night makes, a stunning day near Whataroa after the storm has passed

Wound our way around the Whataroa River flats of farmland. Then a climb up Mt Hercules which was a little harder as there was road works with traffic lights, luckily not too busy traffic wise. Interestingly the number of people who have expressed dismay, both before and after our trip, that we are going to/have cycle Mt Hercules is significant :).

Arrived in Hari Hari at 11.30 am, which had meant to be yesterdays destination. A tidy, cared for town. Morning tea/lunch at the café/store there, much more selection than yesterday. Talked to a Centre Bush couple that were travelling through, reminding us of how small NZ is.

Continued on through dairy country  to Lake Ianthe where we stopped for a cuppa. Then through bush up and down, up and down and up and down getting to Ross about 3.15pm. Saturday and had an ice cream to contemplate our options... 28 kms to Hokitika, the pub was the only place in Ross that was doing evening meals, the Ross Top 10 campground  was on the coast so 4-5 kms away.

So asked the pub, The Empire Hotel established early 1900’s, about accommodation and yes they have rooms, yay. So quite a nice room with ensuite and continental breakfast included, bonus. The upstairs was undergoing refurbishment and from the outside the whole of one side seemed to have boarded up windows. A couple of truckies were also staying the night.

After a cuppa and a shower we had a walk around the lake, a filled in quarry, then back to the pub for dinner, chowder, burgers and chips; not a lot of choice but a very authentic atmosphere! It’s a nice room we're in but being above the kitchen there is a lingering grease smell, not quite so pleasant.

Another day done, I’ve (Caro) got a Doctors tele consult tomorrow, should be interesting.

We are seeing lots of bird life, lots of Keruru, including 4 in one tree in Hari Hari, also Kingfisher and Weka (live and roadkill dead).

3 September Thursday: Day 10

Stats:  Ross to Greymouth:75kms 17kph

Not such a great sleep for either of us, though not sure why? We had toast and jam which was supplied and were away by 8.30 am.

Found our way onto the West Coast Wilderness trail, straight and flat following parallel to the coastline. A bit of farmland in between a lot of gorse. A blue sky day but a cool, nearly frosty start.

When we hit the main road we followed it for a couple of kms then turned into Lake Manhinapua. A stunning sight with snow clad mountains in the background.

I was waiting for a scheduled call from my Dr regarding some blood test results but it didn’t ring through, not enough signal apparently so once back on the main road I re-scheduled for 45 minutes later and took it beside the road.

We then veered back onto the Wilderness trail again and arrived in Hokitika by 11.30am. After some obligatory photos by the driftwood sign we lunched at a main street café.

Headed north via the back streets of Hokitika for as far as we could before coming back to the main road. It was the busiest bit of road that we had struck the whole trip, logging trucks, milk tankers, concrete trucks and loads of cars. Some of the traffic turned off towards Arthurs Pass at Kumara junction. We got back on the Wilderness trail at the bridge crossing over the Taramakau river.

Stopped for a snack and a track maintenance man stopped and talked to us, even gave us his phone number if we needed a bed for the night. He was a talker, his stash of gold, his wife leaving him etc. etc. His name was Guy Wallace, turns out he was a key witness in the Ben Smart/Olivia Hope murder trial and a bit of a dodgy character himself.  Anyway we didn’t take him up on his offer!

The track was lovely as it wasn’t right beside the road, it wound it’s way thru native plantings then followed the coast right to the Grey River. A stunning warm, dry, no wind day... how lucky are we??

Arrived in Greymouth at about 3.30pm, rode out to the river mouth then back around the harbour.   Found our way to a backpackers that we had in mind. Perfect; a double room with shared bathroom, maybe 5 or 6 others (young people) staying, all from overseas I think.

A short walk to the supermarket for breakfast supplies and did some laundry. Couldn’t spa as it was closed because of Covid. A 100m walk to a pub recommended by the backpackers manager, excellent! Tonight we’ll drift off to the pounding sea….hopefully it’s soothing, sounds a tad rough and windy!?

Seeing lots of Keruru which is great. And not too many aches and pains!!

4 September Friday: Day 11

Stats: Greymouth to Punakaiki: 49km 15kph

Woke to a grey, cloudy day and there was a skiff of rain as we were packing the bikes. We left before 9am with no breakfast so we could get to a bike shop (already booked in) to get Noel’s bike serviced and a new tyre, (planned replacement, no emergency!).

So with time to fill we had a wander around Greymouth, and breakfast at a café. Quite cold for wandering!! At the bike shop we bought a brighter rechargeable front light for Noel as well.

Left Greymouth at 11.30am or so and headed north. Over the Grey River and through Runanga which is quite a big settlement, on through farmland and onto the beach at Rapahoe Bay. We then followed the coast road up and down, absolutely stunning!!!!

A cloudy day but no wind and not much traffic. Stunning bays, beaches and rocky sea outcrops.

Lunched at Barrytown at a lovely pub, which was a welcome and much needed stop.

Continued to Punakaiki, again ups and downs, not too drastic but tiring enough. Stopped at the Pancake Rocks and walked the walkway, a few people about, (there was about 7 cars in the carpark), but certainly a lot quieter than our last visit there. The shops at the carpark were looking a bit sad, some shut and others with bored sales staff, all on shortened hours. The tide was half way out but the rocks are spectacular regardless!!

A km on to the BBH hostel on Punakaiki beach. We have our own room with shared bathroom same as last night but tonight we are it as far as guests!! Except for one ensuite cabin that is occupied but separate.

After a cuppa and shower we walked north along the beach (tides out) as far as we could where a river comes out. There’s a big shoe-like rock raising up. It was getting dark and a band of rain clouds means we didn’t get a famed sunset.

Back to our accommodation via the tavern for dinner. The tavern was quite busy, not sure where everyone came from, but fast, friendly and efficient service. Great fish and chips!! Then a 4 minute walk back to the hostel.

A completely awesome day. Not sure what tomorrow will bring, the forecast is for heavy rain and strong winds for the next 2 days and we’re 56 kms from Westport, so tricky!!! It’s a wait and see what tomorrow brings. Noel has rebooked the Heaphy track hut's for Wed/Thurs nights (Thurs/Fri was full), so we’re committed, though could possibly do Fri/Sat.

Today we saw a Weka on Greymouth hostel lawn, one crossing the road and some squashed ones on the road, Water buffalo and Alpaca, no Penguins or Petrels.

Saw Winston Peter’s electoral campaign bus and got a very friendly wave from the driver, the only bus there was to see on the whole West Coast!

5 September Saturday: Day 12

Stats: Punakaiki to Westport: 57 kms 14.2kph

In the words of The Clash, "should I stay or should I go?" It’s wet and was quite stormy during the night. The forecast is for very wet for the next 2 days, windier on Sunday, although that depends which forecast one reads.

Walked to the tavern for breakfast, still raining but clearing a little, quite warm and no wind.

We decided to go, Punakaiki was meant to be clearing a bit by 10.30am, Westport was meant to be wet all day…very wet from 4 pm onwards. The other motivator was there wasn’t really a store to buy cooking food from, the café/store at the rocks might be open today but…??

So we left about 9.45am. The first couple of kms it was light misty rain, then it got really heavy for about an hour or so. Even though the coastline was still stunning it was too wet to stop, no photo’s with the phone tucked away in a plastic bag. Again our shoes were sloshing with water!!

As we left the coast we climbed, and climbed and climbed, any downhill bits were resented because immediately there was more uphill again. Luckily the rain had stopped and but it was misty, low cloud weather. The hilltops seemed quite squishy and wet-land.

We came around a corner at our 30km mark to a very welcome “café” sign and just like that we were in Charlestown. Dripped our way in for a cup of  tea, pies and cakes. The café is part of a cave rafting business which was why it was still open. It did have a few customers while we were there... though for coffee not caving.

Left there to go uphill again, past Mitchell’s gully a gold mining site of the 1860’s. More uphill then finally some flat and gradual downhill to Westport.

The first thing that hit us about Westport was the smell of the coal fires. We located and booked for 2 nights into the YHA, a lovely two story residence from the 1860’s. It was about 3 pm, by 4pm it was pouring again. The hostel has quite a few permanent residents with separate units at the back. It will be these residents paying the bills to keep it going as there is not many travellers about. Out for dinner at a close by pub, still raining.

Not many photo's for today... just too wet to get camera out, focus and shoot!

A quiet day tomorrow, our first full day off, which will be very welcome!!

Decided Noel and I work in opposite ways…the hare and tortoise scenario maybe?? Noel bikes slower in the mornings, especially up hills, and I’m faster then in the afternoon we seen to swap roles and I’m the slower one… usually the hungrier one as well!!

Anyway it’s good to be this far. Today from leaving the coast to Westport was an arduous day, one I don’t want to repeat on a bike!!

Saw Weka, some alive some dead, and a weasel run across the road so that was it for exotic things.

 

2020 Biking epic part I - the start

25 August Tuesday: D Day!!!!

Stats: Our house Arrowtown to Cardrona Hotel: 29kms  12kph

Started off the day with fresh snow on the Remarkables and warnings of a cold front sweeping through. With our last minute packing done and our house clean-ish we had our friend Keith lined up to drive us to Cardrona or to the top of the Crown Range at least, as snow was close… we could see the headlines “irresponsible, elderly couple, first time bikers plucked from a blizzard, hypothermic and lucky to be alive”….

Anyway at about 11am, the sun starts shining, blue sky peaks through and things are looking brighter…..and with the help of a Metservice web cam at the top of the Crown Range showing there was no snow up there, we loaded up the bikes and headed off about mid-day.

Missed some of the zig zags by taking the Whitechapel short cut, then zig zagged up the road to the Crown Terrace scenic stop ….so far so good!! There was then a bit of nearly flat and a sandwich stop before the serious climbing begins. Then up and up …Noel biked the whole way ,I did a bit of walking, and with some encouraging toots from passing traffic we made it to the summit some 2 ½ hours after we left Arrowtown!! (to give us credit we did stop for some lunch!)

A few celebratory photos (we weren’t hanging about too long it was very cold). Then down the other side and into a freezing wind, but hardly any pedaling all the way to Cardrona.

Checked in to the Cardrona Hotel and had a restorative spa just coz they had one available for guest use. Dinner at the hotel with Jo and Ewen coming out from Wanaka to join us, nice.

Reveling in our 1^st day’s achievement!!!

The lesson for the day is that while the uphill is tough the reward of going down the other side is very sweet indeed!!

26 August Wednesday: Day 2

Stats: Cardrona Hotel to Hawea: 47kms 15kph

After a yummy breakfast we reloaded our bikes and biked mainly downhill to Wanaka. Quite a cold wind in our faces and ice on the surface of the puddles and small creeks.

In Wanaka our first stop was at a bike shop to buy brighter tail lights than what we currently have so that we are more visible on the roads, although we’ve likely just biked the busiest road that we will be on for awhile.

Lunched at Jo’s place, a hearty soup. We are lucky to have friends stranded by the resurgence of Covid in Auckland. Jo joined us on the bike ride to Hawea, we did this ride with Jo, Ewen and a friend of theirs a week ago so knew what we were in for. It’s a very pleasant and very popular track from Albert Town to Hawea, following the Hawea river and had the added bonus of watching some surfers at the river wave park.

A cheap Airbnb for the night with an elderly and quite smelly Mini (lab/Weimaraner X), to greet us. A walk to the hotel for dinner, Ewen joining us after a day of skiing at Treble Cone. A nice meal and a quick walk back to our residence on quite a chilly night.

Day 2 done ….and now we’re on our own!!

27 August Thursday: Day 3

Stats: Hawea to Makarora , 49kms 14kph

Simply stunning!!!! Pinching ourselves that we are actually doing this!!!

Breakfasted upstairs at the Airbnb….with a hopeful Mini watching on. Left via the Hawea store to pick up a sandwich for lunch. Then on to the undulating road around Lake Hawea. It had looked like we were starting out in a frost this morning, it wasn’t super cold... but it was brisk.

We wound our way up and down around the lake and lunched in the sun, at the Neck, overlooking Lake Wanaka. Not that much traffic but what there was, was mainly campers, caravans and rental cars….we seemed to have left the bulk of the traffic back in Wanaka.

Wound our way along Lake Wanaka and through to Makarora, arriving there about 3pm, a bit weary and ready for a rest. Great facilities, our A framed hut sitting in the sun until at least 5pm. Dinner at the pub/restaurant on site, which was very quiet but slowly ticking over without the numbers of overseas travellers. No internet at the hut so an early night….hopefully sleeping better than last night!!

Sounds like we might get wet tomorrow ….joy!??

28 August Friday: Day 4

Stats: Makarora to Haast, 81kms 16kph

The forecast had been awful but improving closer to the day… but there was fresh snow on the tops this morning.

Breakfast at the restaurant which was doing a brisk trade in coffees for the road workers.

It was a 17km climb to the Haast Pass 564m.It wasn’t too bad, I’d expected a relentless climb but this was a little up and down until close to the pass….then the relentless up!! On the way we passed a new parking area, new toilets and a new track to the Blue Pools, at Cameron Flat.

A few photos at the top and down we went….yeah hah!, a bit of brain freeze though as it was quite cold. Some light rain at the top and down past Fantail and Thunder Falls. Once we got to The Gates of Haast (bridge) the rain stopped and the day improved with even a little blue sky for a short time.

Followed the vibrant blue river north. Stopped at Pleasant Flat DOC camp for a cuppa and snacks, then wound our way to Haast township. The waterfalls along the roadside were flowing fast and you could see the water pouring off the hills , there had obviously been heavy rain overnight. One particular bridge we crossed over was “imp grotto”, a very mossy, steep sided waterfall…the imps would have to know how to abseil for survival!!?

Light, steady rain started to fall with about 15 kms to go , the closer we got the heavier the rain. Stopped at the township and bought some snacks at the supermarket, which seemed to be all that was open anyway.

Then biked the remaining 4 kms in pouring rain…even the cows in a roadside paddock had a “what the f*#^?” look on their faces as they watched us pedal by.

Got to the hotel at about 3.30pm and by 4pm there was super heavy rain and it has continued on and off all evening. The room was lovely and warm and with the added bonus of a clothes drying rack, one gets the impression they are used to wet guests here. A lovely meal at the pub which was reasonably busy with Friday night locals as well as a few passers by.

Did get a sting from Ongaonga, a NZ stinging nettle, luckily my tights were some barrier but my leg is still stinging tonight ….it is a rather vicious plant!! The lessons learnt from reliving ones self by the roadside!!

Feeling rather weary but surprisingly not too sore.

Getting a few toots and waves as we go which is nice!!

29 August Saturday: Day 5

Stats: Haast to Bruce Bay 72kms 15kph

It absolutely poured last night but it is a beautiful clear day today.

Crossing the Haast River Bridge

A gentle ride to Ships Creek, a beach reserve, in very pleasant temperatures. A quick stop and a short walk to a lookout tower ….lovely views,  we had the place to ourselves. Then reasonably brutal up and downs to Knights Point where we lunched with bread and bacon from the Haast hotel. We virtually had the carpark to ourselves with only 2 other cars stopping briefly to check out the view… which is indeed impressive !!

A few km’s on and past Lake Moraki, and a long gentle upward slope (which you wouldn’t even notice in a car!!), but it was quite energy sapping!! Onward to Lake Paringa, stopping for a walk and barley sugar, was thinking there was a store there for ice creams or something but no ….there was a couple of campers parked up for the night probably.

Then a long reasonably flat bike ride to Bruce Bay ….we were getting rather weary. With about 10 kms to go we past a salmon farm café that we have stopped at before with a coffee and cake sign beckoning but with a longish uphill driveway we thought it too much effort to pursue. Was definitely counting down the kms!! We were being passed by quite a few motorcyclists so there was a rally happening somewhere.

Yay we made it to Bruce Bay and Mahitahi Lodge…the only accommodation at Bruce Bay , and a much needed stop for the night!! Feeling very weary and a wee bit sore, thighs and gluts.

Greeted with just out of the kitchen caramel slice and a cup of tea ….heaven!!! the lodge is run by Jackie and John, they are feeling the pinch of Covid with no overseas visitors.

The motorbike rally destination was Bruce Bay Hall so lots of bikes on display but a chilly night to be bedding down in tents and on the floor!!

After a rejuvenating shower we walked down the road to the beach. A big sweeping bay was covered in washed out trees and was protected by wetlands so not easily accessible. The roadside beach was stony  and quite inhospitable looking ….it’s eroding the road  so there are road works to stabilize the bank.

A lovely meal provided by our hosts and an early night ….supping on peppermint tea to aid recovery!!

The following  quote by John a ex farmer, ex fisherman and ex councillor is worthy of noting:

“When those that produce are controlled by the ones that produce nothing…   everything will deteriorate .”

30 August Sunday: Day 6

Stats: Bruce Bay to Fox Glacier, 48kms 17kph

A reasonably solid sleep last night after what was my exhausting day (Noel’s too but not so much). A lovely made to order breakfast of muesli, fruit ,yoghurt ,scrambled eggs and mushrooms….there’s some advantages to biking!!! And with some caramel slice tucked into our luggage away we went. Today is the first day of the trip that we haven’t pre booked accommodation, we’ll just sort something out when we get there.

It was raining!!The roadside beach of stones and tree roots looking wild and moody. Then away from the coast through native bush , the rain alternating from heavyish to light, and it didn’t stop. The road is relatively flat….no monster hills anyways!!

It’s lovely scenery through native bush, there is some big ole trees still standing and they are laden with mosses, some farmland and rocky boulder rivers strewn with tree roots.

Unfortunately it rained continuously so not much opportunity for photo stops. By the time one stops and extracts phone from a plastic bag deep in a pocket the magic seems to have been lost. But some very photo worthy scenery just the same.

Most the cattle and sheep we see glance our way and I’m guessing are thinking “mad buggers”, the horse we past wasn’t at all interested in our exploits!!

Noel wondering which direction we are meant to go....

Luckily there’s been vacant road works toilets (not working roadworks) at very convenient spots, bonus!!, as after my run in with that nettle it’s taken until today to stop being sore when rubbed.

Arrived in Fox at about 12.45pm, quite wet, sleeves and bottom of my jersey, pants and bike shorts wet through and our shoes felt full of water as if we’d walked through a river. Not so pleasant!!

Thinking we were a little early to check in anywhere we went to a café for a hot chocolate and pie.

Found our way to Ivory Tower backpackers, where a spa sounded very inviting, but the spa was closed due to level 2 Covid.  We’ve been given a huge family room so have lots of room to spread out our wet gear, and air out the rest including our sleeping bags just incase they’d got damp.

Wondered about going to see the glacier as the weather cleared but it wasn’t clear for long and then saw the  “10km to carpark” sign, so gave it a miss.

Bought ourselves some breakfast stuff from the 4 Square as we have a kitchen with pots etc. in our room, so that’s a bonus !!

Dinner tonight is a choice of 3 restaurants all on short hours. The big pub being open 6-8 pm only. Fox is looking quite sad ,empty streets and empty-ish cafes ,a far cry from when we went through 21 months ago.

So a free afternoon/evening to rest our legs.

Fox township in the early evening resembled a “locked down town"….3 restaurants open, our choice seemingly the most popular with 2 locals having a drink at the bar and 2 other couples, very quiet!!!

Luckily our room was big enough to put our bikes in overnight as there is a kea lurking nearby. Managing to get our gear dry with a rotation policy in front of the heater…thinking we must be missing lambing if we voluntarily spend hours out in steady rain and just for recreation!!!

31 August Monday: Day 7

Stats: Fox Glacier township to Franz Josef township: 25 kms 11kph.

Woke up to a fine day, contrary to the weather forecast. We breakfasted in our room ,poached eggs on toast, then squashed the rest of the loaf of bread in our luggage and we were on our way.

The road was immediately uphill. There were 2-3 long winding climbs and equally long winding downhills ….yea ha just rewards!! The climbs were manageable as not as brutally steep but still 1^st gear stuff. A few big trucks on the road carting big rocks, probably for river protection or something similar, 3 big rocks per truck.

The road wound through bush, rivers and creeks and out onto farming flats closer to Franz Josef. There is a lot of lambs about already but there is feed to match too.

Arrived in the township about 12.30 pm and found a café to lunch in, a lot quieter than last time we were thru with Jo and Ewen 21 months ago. However busier than Fox. A bit of rain started while we lunched.

Went around to Rainforest Lodge, recommended by Mitch, and booked in. They had a spa pool and it was open for use, (still at level 2) unlike last night. But instead of a spa we did a bit of laundry. We walked downtown for breakfast supplies, and filled our afternoon in reading.

Had dinner at the restaurant onsite which was great . Walked out into the rain so there goes our glow worm grotto walk tonight. So will be saving all the activities for the upcoming Wakatipu Walking group excursion in Dec.

So another short-ish day on the bike, and tomorrow is a wait and see as there is a lot of heavy rain in the forecast.

Thought for the day: Biking makes you appreciate what's around every corner ….a steep hill and your heart sinks , a downhill or even flat and your heart soars!!!!