Monday May 20: Bikes and battles...
Arrived in Inverness after our overnight "Caledonia Sleeper" train from London around 8:30 am. Although neither of us felt we got much sleep we think it was probably more than we realised. It was good to be able to stretch out, even in an albeit very confined space of the sleeper cabin (perhaps best described as a wee cabin)... bit of a dance to move around, one had to stand up to allow the other to pass etc!
We walked up to the Youth Hostel from the station and met up with Caro's sister Lynley and husband Grey... great to see them and they will be spending the next 10 days with us, fun! Got our bags stored then headed to downtown Inverness for breakfast before a walk around either side of the River Ness.
Went to the bike hire company that we have purchased bikes off around 11 am, and picked up our trusty steeds for what will be the next 2 months. We had been told of this option from our Inverness based friend Gavin who works for the said company tickettoridehighlands.co.uk (Editors note: shameless plug!) at times. 1 year old Trek hybrid bikes (they renew their fleet annually) which have been all serviced and checked over, and luckily also sold us some second hand panniers also... ideal! Note... "hybrid" has no connotations regarding electric power, rather a MTB type frame with road tyres and gearing. Only form of "assistance" for us will be pies and pints! Lynley and Grey are however hiring e-bikes from these guys also.
Since it was a beautiful afternoon we made the decision to grab a bus and go to view the Culloden battlefield which is just outside Inverness. The battle occurred in 1746, a civil war between the Jacobites (led by Prince Charles (later known as Bonnie Prince Charlie) and his followers who were hoping to see Charles and his Stuart family line regain the English throne) and the ruling British army.
It is important to note that both sides had a range of supporters from all origins/countries, it was not a Scotland vs England battle... it just happened to occur in Scotland and had huge repercussions for the Scottish, particularly highland, people.
The battle resulted in more than 1600 deaths in less than an hour, with the British forces triumphant and Prince Charles hiding and making his way to exile. The ongoing result was that the British, who were concerned Charles would rebuild his followers and return for another attempt, began an operation to reduce the chances of this occurring. This by default resulted in the Highland land clearances, large mass murders and land confiscation. Speaking of Gaelic, wearing of kilts, playing of bagpipes etc was strictly banned and enforced by punishment of death.
A very well run and presented museum, and an excellent battlefield tour guide made it a very informative afternoon... enjoyed in what is almost a Scottish heat wave with the high temp's, long may it continue!
Back to the hostel where Noel fettled the bikes, adding some of our bike bags and kit etc... although finding he had a flat tyre... not a good start! Buying a pump was already on the list so got that done as well this evening and then tyre pumped to see what happens. Caro started packing her bike panniers, finding they hold quite a lot and they will do the job nicely... relief! (had been a major concern as to how to fit all we need in!)
Then a downtown meal before a reasonably early night for all.
Tuesday, May 21: When I wake up, well, I know I'm gonna be....
... biking... it begins! Inverness - Fort Augustus, 54km
First thing for Noel is an early morning rise (before we had our YHA supplied "wee breakfast") to check the tyre, sadly flat again so post breakfast a new tube fitted after (supposedly) closely checking the tyre for damage etc... at the same time as this was occurring Caro and Lynley headed off to stock up on essentials, meaning snacks!!
Then loaded the bikes, and Lynley and Grey walked down to the hire shop whilst we followed shortly after to reunite once they had their hire bikes. But... only got halfway and Noel's tyre was flat again, after much gnashing of teeth and some choice words all he could do was wheel his bike down. Thinking it was possibly a rim issue the hire mechanic kindly checked it over to find that there was a very tiny pin in the tyre.
Totally uncalled for but they then provided a new tyre, gratis, and fitted it up for us... great service.
And we were off, in "pursuit" (Editors note, yeah right!) of Lynley and Grey who had departed already...
Wound our way over, along and around the Ness River to leave Inverness, slightly lost at one point then following the Caledonian Way cycle route. Initially largely country lanes, still well surfaced roads however, that were narrow and relatively unused. Passing through a lightly rolling hillside of largely crop backing onto wooded hills. Lovely riding!
We stopped at the village of Dores, on the southeastern end of Loch Ness, the first "beach" which actually had a lot of people out sunbathing in the glorious day... and at the same time keeping a watch out in case we spotted the Undisputed World Champion of Hide and Seek.
Fortified with some coffee cart cakes, advertising home-baking but the owner apologising as his wife was ill the cakes were bought in.. still yum though.
The route then followed a long quiet stretch on the southern shores of Loch Ness, slightly rolling with 1 or 2 sharp inclines. Caught up with Lynley and Grey at Foyers briefly, they continued whilst we stopped for a cuppa.
Then the real slog began... 11 km of some steep pinches and other stretches of deceptively flat looking which was actually a steady rise, hard work anyway!! Passing through forest and some sheep farming, a few cattle, gorse and broom. It was very nice to get to the top after some 350 m of climbing.
Gratefully wound/coasted our way down to Fort Augustus and our accommodation hostel, with a much appreciated shower and cuppa on arrival.
We are finding anybody we encounter to be very helpful, you only have to look slightly lost and they are asking if they can help etc (Editors note... and the travellers always look slightly lost, even if they're not!). Also friendly when they see our bike gear loaded, there are quite a few bikers about too and all very chatty.
Saw 3 pheasants for the day, some deer, sheep, cows, alpaca also. The houses and buildings are very solid and imposing looking, lovely.
We had dinner at the hostel bar and then a walk around town, a very impressive lock stairway which drops vessels from the Caledonian canal into Loch Ness.
It is changing to quite cold with wind and rain predicted for tomorrow... ah well!
Thursday, May 22: Easily diverted, or not so much.
Fort Augustus - Ardgour, 72km
Although the forecast was for wet all day it only started during the afternoon. After a hostel breakfast it was a quick buy up of some snack supplies and we headed west on the canal path beside the Caledonian canal. There were 4 boats transferring through the locks down into Loch Ness as well as a large cruising boat (i.e. hotel/tour vessel) going up the canal (west like us) which we ended up "leap frogging" all the way to Fort William.
At one stage we watched it start it's transfer through a multi lock, then we just crossed a highway bridge before it closed, in order for the bridge to swing open to allow the boat to pass. That was actually ideal as it tied in nicely for our ride on 6km of said highway to avoid an advised (but not recommended by other cyclists) diversion and the bridge closing enforced a delay to traffic giving us 4km of clear highway riding before the traffic started passing us.
The diversion is in place as there are long term logging operations on the canal path route and all cyclists are to take the diversion (actually on the opposite side of the loch and a hiking path). We had already been warned the diversion was difficult with sections of uphill pushing of bikes over difficult terrain, and subsequent discussions with a cyclist who had done it confirmed it was horrible! Although it is a busy highway there are also many cyclists who choose to ride that instead... an added bonus that traffic was held back as we rode it then :)
A good time to mention that we are finding the traffic is very courteous, much nicer than NZ drivers at this point. This was a major highway and all slowed and passed carefully, but it was nice to get back on the cycle route which includes minor roads that tend to be very quiet.
We then ironically had to wait at the next bridge as the boat had kept up by taking a straighter line of travel!! Further down we stopped at a lock-side cafe, once again for the boat to arrive...
Just beyond this point the route had once again been diverted/re-aligned for some hydro storage facility construction. This took us up quite a climb on a forestry road. Coming down it was Caro's turn for a puncture on the sharp rocky surface. Calling on Noel's skills once again to replace the tube, rather quickly as it was a tad cold and rain starting to fall.
Luckily it was then back onto a sealed road which was a relief. As we were sure we were well behind Lynley and Grey on their e-bikes, particularly due to our puncture hold-up, it was a surprise for Noel to spot them off to the side amongst the forest on a rough track. Not sure why they were, we waited at the next point that seemed to be where that track emerged. Once they appeared, rather exhausted and bedraggled, it emerged they had been given some wrong advice by another biker at a point of poor signage.
But all OK as we all continued on a sealed road then canal path once again. The rain however setting in as we arrived in Fort William. Noel came to a screaming (not literally thankfully) stop when he spotted a cycle shop and stocked up on tyre tubes... we had used the last one so it had been a very nervous last 12 km!
3/4 of an hour before our ferry departure so a welcome cafe with hot soup was found, perfect. During the day we had a few different chats with fellow cyclist Melanie, who we initially met yesterday. Melanie has similar plans to us over the next week so likely we will "cross paths" again.
A tiny (Editors note: and cute!) ferry took us across Loch Linnhe to Camusnagaul before we commenced what was a very scenic 17 km ride to our Ardgour pub accommodation. A narrow road with not much traffic, seeing sheep, deer and one very big house/estate. Large Rhododendron resplendent along the roadside, which have been very visible on other roads as well... obviously free sown? but mainly only purple colour, it is actually Scotland's most threatening invasive non-native plant.
We were very happy to reach the stunningly located pub, rather weary after a big day... and a bit of sore butts! The couple of diversions on the route added quite a lot of climbing, combined with some rain and the puncture stress all made the already large 72 km ride seem even longer! But stunning scenery along the way, especially the last section.
Dinner at the hotel, which was a nice meal. Interestingly the publican advised against going into the bar as there had been a funeral that day for a local identity of the small village... and the locals were having what sounded like a boisterous wake. The next morning the publican advised it had got messy, with some local long held grudges raised with at least one chair broken!!
The mountains around the area are stunning, quite foreboding however with a dark misty/green look. There appears to be quite a thin layer of soil over the rocks judging by the creek beds and exposed sections of pasture land.
Thursday May 23: A cruel twist or 2
Ardgour to Oban, 62km
Started the day with a pub breakfast, seemed expensive at GBP 11, but we are not able to head off into the wild blue yonder on empty stomachs and not sure of where our next meal is coming from!
A short ferry ride over the loch to Corran, with the ferry terminal right across the road from the pub, and then onwards whilst following the coast line. Lovely riding on sealed paths beside and near the road before stopping at a pub for lunch. This followed passing Castle Stalker, which has some Stewart connections (Caro's ancestry background has Stewart links so she is claiming it) at Appin.
From there it was on to Oban, a lovely meandering track until we crossed Loch Etive on the Connel bridge where the route then followed minor "B" roads to avoid a busy highway. Great idea but what an effort ensued after a coastal mainly flat day! 13km of up and down, up and down twisty roads... energy sapping... wtf etc!. But eventually a fast descent into a very busy Oban which had people and tourists everywhere.
Oban is a scenic town built around the harbour. Big imposing buildings and houses with multiple chimney stacks, grey brick stone work does make the town look dark and foreboding. Nice to get to the Youth Hostel around 4.30pm which allowed us to get some laundry done... yay! The hostel has lovely facilities and we are pretty sure we have stayed here 34 years ago although needless to say the memory is a bit hazy!
A nice pub meal followed by an evening wander around the town. The day has been improving after a rain threatened morning start. Although cold and windy in Oban it is lovely and clear. We happened to see Melanie again, and we will see her on the same ferry crossing tomorrow so there will be a chance to exchange contacts as she is keen to explore NZ sometime. We are all looking forward to a minimal cycling day tomorrow :)
