Longboats, Welsh Winds and Beatle bikes

Row row row your boat (we hope not...)

This morning we were privileged to get a personalised tour, and better understanding, of Harper Adams College which is an agricultural university well known throughout the UK. Alan is senior lecturer in pig production and oversees the large commercial pig unit associated with the complex. Janet lectures in Sheep Genetics here on a part time basis which she juggles with her full time position as genetics researcher with a Ram breeding company. It was fascinating to see the pig farrowing set up, with automatic rising floors to reduce mortality rates etc, as well as a glimpse at other parts of the complex such as the dairy robotic milking area and the still under construction veterinary college.

From there we travelled via Ironbridge which has the world's first cast iron bridge which opened in 1781. The nearby town and area of Coalbrookdale is attributed to the start of the industrial revolution. Stopped for a quick grocery shop at Shrewsbury before arriving at the busy marina in Chirk to collect our trusty craft.

We have a 58 foot long, 2 bedroom, 2 toilet, 1 shower narrow-boat named Siobhan. After the necessary instructions we headed off to the Poachers Pub about an hour downstream. At 4 mph it is a slow trip but if one is the pilot it is plenty fast, and busy, enough with a tunnel and aqueduct immediately traversed as added extra’s. Our reward is a drink for Alan and Noel at least (mainly Alan who did the initial shift although Noel managed to do a 16 point parking maneuver to get us moored). Janet and Caro also deserved a drink... just cause they could.

Next morning we raised anchor, well… untied, about 7:30 am as we had a full day of boating ahead of us. The plan is 4 hours to the town of Ellesmere which is a turnaround point and then return to the same area we start from this morning.  This part of the trip entailed 2 locks to be negotiated in both directions, quite an entertaining operation of winding the mechanics, opening gates, holding boat steady etc… what fun and not as hard as envisaged! Everyone had a go at piloting Siobhan today, with all coping reasonably well if not that comfortably. A couple of groundings saw us all learn the technique of pole and motor to free and float!

Ellesmere is a small, somewhat sleepy town. There had been a festival the previous day so nearly everything was shut although we found a café near a small glacier formed lake or Mead. Back to just beyond the Poachers Pub and moored close to the Boathouse Pub, near Chirk. The pub was open but not serving meals so after a drink we walked up the hill to Chirk and found a lovely restaurant.

Inexplicable really.... Ellesmere bollards with knitted covers??

Acrophobia.... never, I'm too high for that!

The canal boat is fairly solid and forgiving as there is a bit of a bumper boat sensation on canal walls, and especially when meeting on-coming boats. It is all just tricky enough.. or that’s what we thought but then on day 3 we had an aqueduct and tunnel to start the day, then a hand lift bridge to go under, before reaching and crossing the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. The aqueduct spans the River Dee and comprises 18 stone arches supporting the cast iron canal sections 38 metres above. A very spooky feeling when you only have a canal side of around 50 mm between you and the almost 40 m drop!

Following our successful, if breath taking, crossing a perfectly executed sharp left turn led on to 4 miles of canal, of which 1.5 miles was one way only,  to make it to Llangollen. Turned Siobhan around (turning is quite a big deal when you have a 58 foot long vessel in a 20 foot wide canal, and hence only possible in specialist turn bays or marina’s!) and tied up for the day/night at least pointing in our homeward direction.

 Faster Janet, we want through...a tunnel awaits

Optional power assistance for tourist canal boat at Llangollen

Llangollen is a pretty town on the River Dee. We walked along the canal to Horseshoe Falls which is the man-made dam and origin of the canal. Then over the hill to look at Valle Crucis Abbey ruins, back to our boat and out for dinner, ready for an earlier start tomorrow to hopefully avoid most of the potential oncoming boats in the narrow sections of canal.

Consensus opinion that the trip is great fun

Away by 7:30 and got through the narrows and over the aqueduct no worries. The whole trip has just been fantastic, aided by great company but also a very professional company and extremely well presented boat. The company even had a NZ flag hoisted at the marina entrance for our return, a lovely touch!

As we were back to the Marina in good time we went to Chirk Castle for a look before heading back to Alan and Janet’s house for the night. The castle is large and was built in 1295 as part of King Edward 1st chain of fortresses across the north of Wales. It has been in the ownership of the National Trust since around 1990, Alan explaining that many of the National Trust properties were sold by the private owners who were unable to keep up the huge cost of maintenance. A fascinating tour through the castle with the majority of rooms still furnished as they were at the time of sale. Including a couple of chairs with "ER" on them, which indicated the castle owners had attended Elizabeth 2 coronation ceremony.... apparently you get to keep your chair as a souvenir of being invited!

Pretty Welsh towns, mountains and slate

Left Alan and Janet’s this morning and drove back though Llangollen, a different view from a car, before stopping for lunch in Betws-y-Coed a cute very touristy town on the edge of the Snowdonia National Park. After a walk around, and pasties and Welsh Cakes, we drove first to a waterfall but with an entrance fee we didn’t bother going in (it didn’t look as scenic as any on the Milford Road!). We are now in the land of grey stone buildings and housing, a different look again.

We took the spectacular road to Tregarth, the start of a railway up to the summit of Mount Snowdon, which is the highest mountain in Wales and second highest in the British Isles at 1085 metres. A train line runs to the top, and although we considered taking it all train trips were booked out for the day, both diesel and steam trains. The mountain was obscured by cloud which happens around 80% of the time… so much so you can load a "clear day" app on your phone to show you what you are missing out on as you ascend!

The town had a slate industry in the hills which are carved out in huge terraces, the mining has now mostly stopped but there are tours available. Anyway a nice stop before heading back up the valley stopping at a few viewpoints, one was the starting point to hike Mount Snowdon… 6 hours return so maybe another time. The wind was howling and the mist swirling at the viewpoint so wouldn’t have been ideal on the way up or at the top. They are very scenic valleys and hills to be driving among though...

Through some cute towns and onto Criccieth, stayed at a lovely BnB in this seaside resort. With high winds and constant rain it wasn’t too enticing during our brief visit… but we did find a nice pub for dinner (and an ale and cider!... is there a theme running here?) A ruined castle on the hill was haunting with our evening walk being bracing, to say the least.

Into the mouth of hell...

This morning we headed along the coast travelling on very narrow roads. We are becoming somewhat frustrated at how tricky it is to find parking at scenic stops. Mostly charge you to stay all day, with no option for shorter, when we only need 30 minutes given the uninviting weather. Wales seems the most stringent on this sadly, and the parks are patrolled by local wardens to ensure no miscreants. We do understand however given how tight space is.

We found Hell's Mouth, it was cooler than expected and with a howling wind the bay lived up to it’s name. A few hardy surfers out there which is amazing.

Drove around a few more narrow roads to a National Trust restored house and gardens, Plas yn Rhiw, looking over Hell's Mouth Bay but out of the wind. The property was restored, house and garden, by a trio of sisters during the 1940/50's and then they donated the property to the National Trust. Extensive gardens and the house still as it was with mid 1900's furnishings and appliances.

Then on to Nefyn, a beach and golf course area. We parked up and walked along the beach to Porthdinllaen which is a tiny settlement with no road access. It has a pub and a few houses, and in 2013 the pub was voted the 3^rd best beach hotel in the world!!! It was really busy so we didn’t line up for a pint. A cute setting, hardly the Caribbean weather wise but very pretty.

As we walked along the beach there was Whitebait, bigger than our NZ ones being ½ sardine size, washing up on the sand and still alive. They were being chased by Mackerel, a few of which also ended up beached as they misjudged their catch technique. It was horrible to see the literally thousands being washed up, Caro doing her best by stopping to throw back live ones… pretty pointless as 2 metres out the sea was seething with Mackerel. A couple of locals out walking said they had never seen it before, but according to Google it is not an uncommon occurrence on parts of this West Coast.

We walked through the village and up onto the Golf Course, very windy but stunning.

Drove to the town of Chester for the night, staying at a BnB hotel. Walked 20 minutes into town to have a not so great meal in what is reputed to be the oldest pub in Chester (dating back to 1155). The town is very old and attractive with lots of Tudor Buildings.

Day tripper

The next morning we managed to pack all our stuff into suitcases in preparation for our weight limit of 20 kg for our Ryan Air flight to Dublin. Another wander through Chester, along the Roman Wall of the city to the river and back through the cathedral which is huge. A very enterprising church with a pay to view Lego exhibition in one room off the main chapel and a play area for kids at 1 pound each in another part as well as a falconry, a café and a gift shop whilst one part of the building was leased to Lloyds Bank. Many ways to try and help funding their huge maintenance budget.

Back to our car and into Liverpool via the tunnel under the Mersey River… so no singing able to be done about ferry's (sorry Gerry). We wandered for a bit through the Baltic area, deserted, and through the Chinatown gates (2^nd largest out of China) although no visible Chinatown as such apart from a couple of restaurants. Liverpool historically had a large Chinese population but they were being paid low rates so went on strike, the ultimatum was given by the city that perhaps they should go home and many did just that. We walked up to the Liverpool Cathedral, it is huge inside and has the look of being very old but was completed during the 20^th century to open in 1978. We lunched there as it also has a café and gift shop to help feed the coffers.

Found our bike tour location, with 6 biking (2 Netherlands, 1 Canadian, 1 English and us) accompanied by 2 guides. Away we went on our fold up bikes, which it was nice to try and they performed surprisingly well.

Through the Baltic area which is the place the locals go at night, hence why it was deserted when we walked through at lunchtime, and has lots of hidden bars which are closed until evening. Through the Chinese gates and up to the Cathedral again.

Then onto the Catholic Cathedral, The Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ the King, or comically known as the Paddy Tepee due to it's shape. Passed by the school attended by Paul McCartney and George Harrison, Paul having since purchased the building and established a music college there.

 Looking towards the Catholic Cathedral.... Paddy's Tepee, due its shape

Into the main part of town which was busy, past museums, art gallery and theatre as well as old grand hotels. Rode past the main shopping area, the Cavern Club, the memorial to the Hillsborough Soccer stadium disaster and then past the old White Star Line building (owners of the Titanic, and where from the office balcony they announced to the waiting crowd the ship had sunk) to the waterfront area and Albert Dock. Albert Dock was the original industrial area of Liverpool but as the river silted up the industry abandoned it. In the 1980’s somebody thought it would make great apartments so it was renovated and sold. It is now a lively and very high value area. Lovely though, and if we had our canal boat we could have docked there as many were.

 We had to get these 2 bikes....

Liverpool loves it's street art, with lots about and very well done.

With the tour complete, of what is obviously a fun city, we walked back into the main part of town for an early dinner then drove to the airport which was very easy. Our flight was the last flight of the day, the airport was initially quite busy as it was the Friday evening of a long (Bank) holiday weekend and flights to Spain, Poland and Dublin departing.

We all live in a ....

After a 40 minute flight into Dublin we arrived 11:30 and went straight to our airport hotel.