Saturday, July 13, 2019

Auf Wiedersehen Austria.... Ciao Italy

Lets do a bit more walking ...

Drove towards Italy, the scenic way (seems like it all is around here!). Lots of hay being done in various ways; hand mowing, hand raking, machine raked, ride on lawn-mowers, 4WD small truck pickup arrangement and also some round hay and silage being done.
Another (present day) un-manned border crossing






Various hay gathering techniques, including hand raking by farmers...

We initially detoured to the town of  Sesto Sexten as we wondered if we could walk to the famous Dolomites 3 peaks from that area, as the road toll the main way was quite expensive, but we couldn’t… we would have to walk a couple of days to get there due to the required chairlift not yet being open!!

So instead we went to Lake Largo de Braies, a beautiful mountain lake. It was very busy, it was very hot! We walked around some of the lake, lunching on the shore and watching the little fish drift. Back to the car, the GPS said 44 C… our parking ticket sitting on the dash had blackened and curled on the edges!!!! (would have made an interesting call to the Peugeot help desk pleading self combustion!)


Drove through spectacular scenery, mountain rocks and very windy roads to our hotel accommodation at Pocol. Once checked in we drove back the short distance to Cortina d’Ampezzo for a look. A ritzy resort town surrounded by imposing rock mountains that has just been announced as the hosts for the 2026 winter Olympics… it will be a stunning location.



Back to our hotel and a short walk to the neighbouring hotel restaurant for our first Italian meal. Beetroot ravioli (not the Italian name) was very good.

Noticeable along all these windy roads, once again, is that there is lots of cyclists out training, getting exercise, searching for the meaning of life etc.

Left early after breakfast for a 15 minute drive, up more windy roads and past more cyclists, to Passo Faltarego which is 2104 m. There is a cable car to Mount Lagazuoi but we opted to do the 1 hour walk up. It took us longer than that however as we puffed our way up through snow near the top. Near the top of little Lagazuoi 2778 m is a Refugio offering food, accommodation, a Finnish sauna and magnificent views.

The top was quite busy due to the cable car access but not too over-crowded. Being close to the Austrian-Italian border the whole range of mountains were a war zone during WWI between the Austro-Hungarian and Italian armies. The Lagazuoi area is now an open air museum with trenches, tunnels, emplacements, barbed wire and huts still present. A very tough area in which to fight a war. The top area features the Austrian emplacements on the ridge-lines. Of course, a UNESCO world heritage site.



After some recovery time and the obligatory Apple Strudel we walked down to a tunnel entrance. The Anticina Tunnel is a km long, vertical’ish, route that was originally made by the Italian soldiers as access and possible explosive placement near Austrian positions. The top of the tunnel was exploded in June 1917 but has been restored. So with helmets and headlights we walked down with a few other people going down or up, and a few peepholes on the way; it was a good experience. Amazing to see the sleeping barracks carved into the rock. It would have been a cold, wet existence over the 2 years 1915-17 for the soldiers posted there fighting the climatic elements, avalanches, as well as each other.



Remains (partly recreated) of WWI trenches and barbed wire high in the mountains



After we walked down to the car we backtracked 5 km and grabbed a chairlift up the opposite side of the valley to Cinque Torri (5 peaks). A fabulous looking ski area with reconstruction of the Italian WWI trenches and command posts which looked across and up the valley to Lagazuoi and beyond. As a soldier this would be a preferable location, if you had to be stuck up a mountain under fire!!


There's always one....

A relaxed walk around the area, and with the Refugio’s closing for the day we chair lifted back down and continued our trip to San Cristina Valgardena in the Italian Dolomites and our studio apartment for the next 3 nights.

Day 1 Val Gardena area

We originally had plans of doing a day walk from another town but with a chairlift 5 minutes walk away it seemed silly to drive anywhere. So we took 2 chairlifts to get to walks around the Sassolungo group of mountains.

We didn’t have a map as such, but the paths were well defined. Caro opted for the skinny route under the mountain…. Noel followed…. and walked about an hour until we reached Emlio Comici which is about 2000 m. This is a very modern Refugio complete with espresso's, deck chairs, automatic toilet doors and a Range Rover on a pedestal being advertised outside.




Apart from the restroom we resisted its charms and carried on walking through the Citta de Sassi, big rock formations and fabulous views to the Dolomite peaks in every direction. Just as we were starting to get a little tired and hungry we spotted the most amazing thing…

A phone box shaped gondola disappearing into a cutting away up above us… now that could be perfect. So we purchased tickets and got literally manhandled by 2 attendants into one of the moving phone boxes, only just big enough for 2 people, and sent on our way up to Toni Demetri Hutte. This is a Refugio offering food, accommodation and stunning views, what fun!

 The gondola ride drops you at the Refugio, located in the right hand side 'saddle' visible up high. Not for the faint of heart with the gondola's swaying in the gentle breeze!
 Photo at Refugio Toni Demetri of the end of winter team clearing the snow from the building!... GO STIHL!!

 Refugio Vicenza Langkofelhutte about halfway back down walking track

The hut was still surrounded by snow, a metre plus at the back of the building. So of course we ordered Apple Strudel (now becoming connoisseurs) and after some discussion with very helpful staff we decided to go over the top and down the cutting on the other side. This will put us in the right spot at the end of the day to catch the Monte Pana chairlift back to town.


There was snow for a start with quite a few hikers coming up, which must had been hard work. The path was well packed in places so we made our way down past another Refugio, Vicenza Langkofelhutte. Out of the cutting and then through forest tracks to the Monte Pana lift.

On the way down we watched some kids having their ski jump lessons after school, and then chair lifted back down to our accommodation.

Yee haa... a different type of after school activity. Jump and run-off area all under water sprinklers to give the slip/slide effect and 2 coaches giving tips from tower on the side....

Day 2 Val Gardena area

Needing to do a not quite so energetic walk today we took a bus to the gondola Col Raiser and whizzed up to 2019 m in minutes… easy!

This is opposite our previous day mountains and has lovely views of that walk area. Our hike wound its way up through flowering meadows and past many small chalet huts (presume privately owned) and Refugios to the top ridge-line of Forcella Pana and along to Seceda Hutte at 2500 m. A lot of people about but with so many trails and hikers spreading out it wasn’t that noticeable.





Apple Strudel at a Refugio on way up and a beer at the Seceda (highest point and terminus for a huge cable car), before a meander back to our chairlift in the afternoon heat. A great way to spend the day and we are so pleased with our whole time in the Dolomites area.

Shot of Pug's GPS just so you know we aren't kidding about the mountain roads being twisty!!

Tea for two?

Saturday, 3 August: A 4 hour stopover in Dubai airport... just staying in Terminal and walking to stay occupied. The whole terminal appeared...