Good morning Vietnam... luxury cruise and other first impressions

 20 June: Tuesday

Up and away early to catch 6am train to Narita Airport… a very efficient method of getting to the airport.

Checked in for our flight at the counter… staff required to sight plans that we intended to leave Vietnam again… lucky I have got Noel and his phone.

Vietnam Air flight left at 10am, probably around ½ full but we were in a seat row of 3 including someone beside us. Couple of movies watched to fill in the time.

Flying into Hanoi the area looks quite industrial and lots of new housing developments (multi-storied). Its 35C… so HOT!

No questions while getting through immigration, waved through Customs, however huge queues so still took a bit of time.

We had an arranged airport pickup which was just as well as there didn’t seem to be many buses about. Outside the terminal was chaotic… cars (left hand drive) and horns and whistles. Antony met us inside the terminal then phoned a driver who took 20 minutes to appear! Antony could speak quite good English so chatted all the way into Hanoi (45 mins-1 hour), pre-Covid he was a bike guide himself so was very interested in what we have planned.

The roads are chaos!!! Scooters everywhere!! Some with 2 or 3 people, little kids, big loads of stuff, people on their phones. Once we got off the main road and into the "Old Town" streets… the chaos increased!! Scooters, cars, vans all vying for the same small road space….the side walks jammed with parked scooters.

Dropped off at our hotel which is quite nice.. opulent in its day I’d say but looking dated now. A huge bed… a bit different to Japan. A cuppa to recover then out onto the streets… firstly to find some cash.. we withdrew 3 million dong, which is equivalent to around $220 NZ, so not a massive amount but it sounds impressive!

Went for a walk around the lake which is very close to where we are staying. Approached by a few rickshaw drivers but everyone is quite chilled when we declined. At the shrine gates we crossed over to the shops, lots of shops of bags (branded) and shorts, suits, dress, shoe shops.

Finding walking a bit hot so when we found a small open to the street bar with a nice vibe we stopped for a beer. Joined by a chap from the UK, although now a resident of Thailand. Finding ourselves quite comfortable after one beer what does one do… order another along with a meal to go with it. The meal wasn’t cooked on-site, the bar manager just phoned it through and later it arrived hot and well wrapped…. Yum.

It started raining, we didn’t bring a jacket… then pouring with thunder and lightening, a huge storm. The street we were on must have a blocked drain as just too much rain for it to handle. The water backed up enough to be stopping vehicles going through, the level rose to about ankle deep at our bar. Lots of locals out taking photo’s so it was definitely a bit unusual.

Storm subsided after about an hour so we took our chance to walk home. Noel had to double back to retrieve phone left behind (staff standing looking at it trying to work out what to do, so they were as equally pleased!). Made it back without getting too wet, although woken up around 12.30am with another huge storm passing.

City is chaotic compared to Japan… tooting and vehicles everywhere… scary just crossing the road.

21 June: Wednesday

Ready to leave by 8am after a yummy breakfast which included fresh fruit, at last, yum!

A limousine van picked us up then another 2 lots of USA couples, and 3 workers, and we drove to Ha Long Bay. The drive passed vast acres of new apartments. Stopped for a coffee and toilet at one stage… there was a pearl display shop there… pearls obviously grown in the area… the shop was a well oiled operation with a huge number of vans pulling in. We were given neck tags with our vans registration and given half an hour… so we didn’t get mis-mothered! Didn’t buy pearls but interesting to look at process and finished product.

Arrived at Ha Long Bay boat terminals, once again after driving by blocks and blocks of apartments and hotels that are sitting unfinished.. Covid effect maybe?

After waiting a bit we were shepherded onto a smallish boat and motored our way out to the “mother ship” where we were served lunch as we cruised to another area of the bays… with a lot of other boats doing the same. A very yummy lunch, lots of fresh fruit and vege.

Afternoon activities included kayaking around an island (with lots of other kayaks) and a quick lifejacketed swim. The up anchor again and onto a different spot. Sundowners and nibbles on the top deck along with a quick cooking lesson/demonstration… spring rolls and then onto dinner… yum! Sitting on the deck tonight we could see a huge lightening storm, in the distance, in one direction. (wondering if Hanoi is getting flooded again?)

Quite tired this evening, it is obvious that it is tough doing not so much!!

Amazing food on board, and lots of it. Tonight there was 2 birthday’s and a wedding anniversary among the passengers so the staff all line up to dance and sing around the restaurant with drinks and cakes.

Not sure how clean the water is for swimming.. there’s a few diesel fumes about…

22 June: Thursday

Slept quite well on our boat, woke early so it up to the top deck for Tai Chi at 6am, then breakfast ready by 8am for a day trip to Cat Ba.. an island on the edge of Ha Long Bay.

Took about 2 hours to get there… a very sleepy ride… then transferred from out boat this morning to another smaller vessel to do the trip… so we were 3 different cruise boats combined into one passenger vessel. On arrival at the island we biked (they said 5km but a bit doubtful) on creaky old bikes to a village, apparently an epicentre during the Vietnam wars. Walked up and down the street, most locals selling snacks, clothing and tat. A lot of short legged Alsatian looking dogs wandering around.

Also a pool where the fish eat your dead skin off your feet… a very weird sensation, a bit like mini electric shocks but did get used to it so should have lovely soft feet this evening!?!

Back to the boat for lunch.. we opted for an electric shuttle vs bikes as too hard on old bikes… might not bode well for what’s ahead! A lovely lunch before a short kayak where we actually beached for a few minutes. The sea is tepid and maybe cleaner than yesterday’s but with all the tourist boats, fishing boats and fishermen’s floating houses I’m not sure how pure the water will be….

Ha Long Bay is a World Heritage site, awarded 1994, and pre-covid in 2019 it had 14 million tourists visit!

Just dozed on way back to mother ship. The mass tourism doesn’t sit well with the environment but it is dwarfed by the size and beauty of the area, and appears to be managed reasonably well. At one point we passed a government building on the water… they monitor the kayak activities regularly and regulate accordingly as well as collecting rubbish from the floating houses.

There is a huge number of people living off the tourism operations.. even I guess the ladies in the row boats circling the larger boats in the hope of a sale of their drinks, snacks etc (cheaper than on board apparently). A huge industry, just don’t ask where the waste water/effluent goes!

A lovely dinner again.. 2 entrees/2 mains/1 dessert and then off to bed. We leave 7.30am tomorrow for a caving expedition…

The cruise life isn’t really for us… eating, drinking, relaxing, sleeping, repeat but it’s been nice to experience it for a couple of days.

23 June: Friday

After our Tai Chi lessons and breakfast at 7.30 we boarded a shuttle boat for Dau Go island, the same island as yesterday but must be on the other side of it. It’s a 5 minute boat transfer then a 15 minute bus ride to Thien Cung grotto. This is a large cave believed to be formed 700,000 years ago. Everyone filed through the caves in one direction and it was artificially lit so no need for torches etc. Then back by bus and boat by 9am.

Final departure from the mother ship to be transported back to Ha Long harbour… a mass of transfer boats all coming in at once!! We then had a shuttle waiting for us and 5 others to take us back to Hanoi… a dozy type of trip, its very hard to stay awake in the van.

After we left the mother ship the staff subsequently found a bag left by a guest.. instead of turning around to retrieve it a fast boat caught up with us and without slowing down the transfer was made, almost James Bond in it’s smoothness and speed!

Back to the noise and chaos of Hanoi, a new hotel for us as we are booked in a different one (hotel used by Intrepid tours) but still in “old town”.

Once we had a reviving cuppa we walked back towards our other hotel location in search of a new pair of jandals for Noel… his others broke yesterday. A long search, the shops sell similar wares in blocks so that there are hardware sections, making steel crate sections, kitchen utensils sections, clothes sections!! Jandal’s were a bit elusive but finally found some that are just big enough.

Heading back to our hotel we found a restaurant just along the street from hotel (there is also a KFC right beside us… but not for us!!). The one we chose had a street sign in English, but the staff were somewhat surprised to see us.

The streets are a seething mass of scooters and cars.. surprisingly some quite nice cars, Bentleys, Porsches etc.. and the sidewalks are all jammed up with parked scooters so you have to walk on the road.. and the constant tooting!!

Another thunder storm this evening.

24 June: Saturday… it’s raining…

A bit of a sleep in, first one for the holiday… not much of a sleep in, still had breakfast around 8am. After sorting some washing to go to a laundry we went for a walk to Ho Tay Lake which is quite close to the hotel. It looks so lovely and serene.. then you notice the dead fish floating in it, although this doesn’t stop fishing folk!

We walked around the edge and crossed the road (with much skill and determination) to Chua Tran Quoc, a pagoda and temple. People were leaving offerings of gold fish (live) in plastic bags, although we are not sure how long they stay alive for.

Then wandered back to the hotel via a meat market.. vendors chopping pieces off carcasses as they were ordered.

Met at hotel by Antony (same guide that picked us up at the airport the other day) and his driver then picked us all up for a pre-arranged “foodie tour”. First stop was Pho Cuon.. spring roll beef pho at one place and then onto Bun Cha Hurong Lien where Obama, and Antony Bourdain, famously ate.. it was a noodle broth with a beer. Followed by a walk through some fruit/vege sidewalk markets to end up having egg coffee at another, very popular, place. Antony then left us to make our own way back which we were happy to do.. on the way seeing a couple of dog meat stalls! (not meat for dogs... but dog meat!!)

The popular stops/restaurants must employ security guards or someone’s grandfather to monitor the sidewalk scooter parking outside their place and restrict it to patrons only.

As a side note, during the Ha Long cruise we had made spring rolls following a demonstration: made with rice paper moistened on a towel, then carrot, pepper, cooked meat, cooked egg etc to roll inside. The second time we used pork mince and the rolls were fried in oil (or maybe boiled first??).

6pm and time for the Intrepid group meeting:

Get on ya bike... Cycle Japan with Intrepid Travel

One couple are serious cyclists along with a single chap, the rest appear more casual (like us!). Of the 12 there are 8 Aussies, 2 UK plus us. A mix of ages from 24 to at least 73.. should be fun. We meet at 8am in morning ready to embark on our stage 2 😊

Group names (for posterity!): Terri and Adrian (AUS), Margie and Mia (AUS), Fi and G (AUS/UK), Dave (UK), Mike, Kate and Phoebe (AUS) plus us…

Guides: Tatsumo (T), Tatsuya (mainly tail end), Ryuichi (van driver, trainee guide)

11 June, Sunday

40km riding. Kyoto to Kyoto loop.

First day of tour and its raining as predicted, 8am start with a bit of time as everyone is trying bikes/adjusting seats etc. Caro has a small frame but it should be OK. TREK Hybrid (FX2) bikes with smooth gear changes. 2 (maybe 3… more about that later) e-bikes on the tour.

Biked along a main street for a start, traffic lights splitting the group at times. Then along a river trail, a stop after about 10km for a toilet then slightly further to a well known coffee shop … a queue of people but guess that’s part of the attraction.

Viewed the Arahiyama buddha sculptures in a temple grounds nearby, 500 of them and within which you are meant to be able to spot one with your facial resemblance. Then we joined lots and lots of people to look at the Arashiyama Bamboo grove. A natural forest of bamboo which looks lovely and covers 16 sq km.

Cycled through rice and vegetable fields to stop at Ryoanji Temple, originally a country house that was acquired in 1450 by Hosokawa Katsumoto to use as a Zen training temple. Destroyed by fire and rebuilt in 1490, famed for its rock garden where there are 15 rocks amongst gravel. You can usually only see 14 rocks if you stay in one spot because of their positioning, apparently if you meditate you should be able to see the 15 in your mind? A busy place as well.

Then biked to a lunch spot, very busy with queues also. It was a Sushi train restaurant but also had a digital board where you ordered a range of items (dessert, drinks, main dishes). Your individual orders came whizzing along on the sushi train and stopped magically at your table. At the end of the meal you put all your plates down this little slot in the table… to disappear to who knows where! A jaw dropping fascinating place to have lunch!

Fortified it was back on the bikes and headed to the Kinkaku-ji Temple. Another Buddhist temple, the area is centred around a golden stupa Kinkaku, or 3 storied temple covered in gold leaf… quite spectacular. There were hundreds of people there and the whole serenity of the place was lost as you walked out via a whole lot of stalls selling stuff (tat!). Very commercial for a sacred place.

Cycling through streets back to the imperial palace, we however became 2 lost riders with one guide due to a traffic light holdup. Took about 15 minutes (and phone calls from our tail end guide as he was completely lost) to re-join with the group. A ride down the road of philosophy and a quick look around the Nanzen-ji temple area and aqueduct then back to the hotel.

The rain eased off around lunch time so it turned out not too bad. A great days riding through the city and beyond to be back home around 4:30pm. Tonight we met at 5:20 and taxied to the main shopping/eating/happening spot in Kyoto. Lots of old laneways, lots of bars and restaurants and lots and lots of people.

We had gone with the younger guide (van driver, guide in training) Ryuichi. A walk through the Geisha district, happened to spot one walking between restaurants, some very busy streets. Very old but obviously a main drag if you have a car to show off! 2 Maserati’s doing laps, a flash convertible Lexus, a Porsche etc… We split up for dinner with folk going 4 different directions, Noel and I wandered to temple at end of main street, the Osaka Shrine, then just wandered up and down tiny alleyways that all were very busy. Actually found a Ramen Noodle place to eat, nobody else initially but great fun… we are now a lot more confident with the “systems”!

Back to the hotel via shopping streets, all very busy and wonder why given it is a Sunday night! Finally managed time to do a machine wash so room has clothes hanging about to dry. A fabulous first day with a group of competent, but not overly so!, bikers. Terri had her 73^rd birthday today.

12 June, Monday

53km, Kyoto to Nara (and train back to Kyoto)

Today was forecast for rain but only got a tiny bit towards the end of the day.

Today we biked to the town of Nara. Quite a fast bike pace set by the leaders, mostly on road paths… some on top of flood banks… and almost all tarsealed. 3 stops along the way, first just a toilet stop. Second amongst green tea plantations and where a retractable bridge crosses the river, which apparently has been in Samari movies, then another toilet stop and onto Nara for lunch.

It was a quick, paved, road and mostly flat… at one stage we were averaging 21km/hr and seems that is probably what it is most of the time. Guide Tatsumo (T) in front obviously then Phoebe who is young and fit being closely followed by her Mum and Dad on e-bikes! Definitely the pace makers.

Following a set menu lunch, Ryuichi took us to the Todaiji temple. A huge complex with lots of people visiting, including the obligatory school groups!!

The temple was a Buddhist centre built 738 CE, then after burning down was reconstructed in the 1700’s. It’s great buddha hall houses the worlds largest bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana; also known in Japanese as Daibutsu. Known as the headquarters of the Kegon school of Buddhism.. and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

A huge site of temples, gates and gardens with wild deer roaming around looking for feed from the people. Amazingly busy with people. The whole town had deer roaming around… after the temple we caught a train back to Kyoto to arrive back at the hotel just after 4pm. The bikes and other guides had already loaded the support van and headed through to Kanazawa where we head tomorrow… we will take our luggage with us on the train in the morning.

Anyway, 53km at pace on mainly flat riding seemed to go OK!

13 June, Tuesday

10km, Kanazawa city tour

8:30am start as Ryuichi marshalled us all to the train station via 3 stops on the subway, then onto an express train to Kanazawa which is a 2hr 20 min trip. During the trip we saw fighter jets circling, obviously a major airforce base (on the west coast… across the waterways will be Korea). Also spotted a huge buddha statue, Kagadaikannon which is 73m tall and built in 1988 as a centrepiece of a Buddhist themed amusement park! We had been advised to buy lunch and eat on the train before being met by the other 2 guides. Dropped our gear at the nearby hotel and started a city biking tour.

Kanazawa is the capital city of Japan’s Ishikawa Prefecture and has a population of around 500,000. Seems like a bustling tourist and shopping mall type of place. Kanazawa means “Marsh of Gold”… when a peasant was digging up potatoes they instead found flakes of gold! The city is renowned for it’s well preserved Edo area districts.

The train station itself was an amazing sight, a volcanic dome which looks like a huge umbrella and a wooden gate (Tsuzumi-mon) that represents hand drums (tsu zumi). As well as a fountain that gives you the time and welcome signs, all formed by the water flow. Impressive.

Our bike ride was around 10km with the first stop in the Samari district at a traditional Samarai house. Then through lanes and alleyways we went to Kenrokuen garden, originally the outer garden was Kanazawa castle. The garden was created in the 1800’s and named after a garden combining the 6 attributes of a perfect landscape garden: spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, watercourses and panoramas. Opened to the public in 1874 and a lovely place to wander.

Followed by a wander around the Geisha tea house district, 2 story buildings which were the only buildings allowed to be 2 story in Edo times. Lots of lovely boutique shops and gold leaf shops, Kanazawa produced 99% of domestic Japan’s gold leaf.

Cycling back towards the hotel we stopped at a couple of Shinto shrines and had them explained to us. There is male and female Shinto shrines apparently. Also demonstrated how to make a wish… with a 5 yen coin as it has both rice and water symbols on it, along with a hole in the middle.

Once back at the hotel it was a re-meet at 6:30pm for a briefing on tomorrow and then all out to a nearby shopping mall to find dinner. As we all headed different directions but many of the restaurants were already closing. Whilst walking about Fiona (Fi) pointed out a pancake place suggesting perhaps dessert there later… but then we discovered it was closing at 7:15, umh, they looked so good we took the naughty option for dinner… big fluffy pancakes covered in fruit, cream and ice-cream… YUM. Not sure if that is the ideal build up for tomorrows 80km ride, but ah well!!

14 June, Wednesday

80km, but lots of stops and reasonably flat

After leaving Kanazawa 8:15am it was 12km cycling mostly along river bank trails to first toilet stop. Shortly after we got the first sightings of the Sea of Japan. A short stop at a friendly bike shop yielded free drink bottles for everyone (a lovely gesture) then we followed the beach road cycle way which is a paved cycleway mostly running beside the main highway, sometimes weaving under the road and back.

Following a morning tea break we were able to cycle 8kms on the sand at Chirihama Beach on the Noto peninsula (which is the beginning of our cycle around the peninsula). Being weather and tide dependent we were lucky to strike it right, and it was quite amazing. As we cycled we were met and passed by numerous cars.. and a Harley Davidson motorcycle.

As we came off the beach there was some beautiful sand sculptures with an artist still perfecting one. We lunched at a restaurant there too, a large highway type restaurant and gift shop, lunch of pizza and ginger ale.

After lunch we continued on the beach side path, then veered off to visit Myojoji Temple. The head temple of the Nichiren Sect in the Hokuriku region of Japan. The temple was founded in 1294, the outstanding feature is a 5 story Pagoda along with a series of buildings. T attempted to give us some lessons in Buddhism. There was absolutely no-one else there until just before we left when a tour bus arrived. A stunning area.

Following quiet roads and paths we made our way up the coast, right beside the coast… a stunning rocky coastline with fishing villages. Sadly quite a lot of litter on the shorelines; fishing floats, rope and general sea rubbish.

Biked past Shika Nuclear Power Station and wind farms too.

Ended up the day in the town of Togi and at a small family run Ryoken Inn, our group making up all the guests. Shared facilities but all fine. A step down from our hiking Ryoken’s but still nice. A traditional Japanese meal, fish being the meat that featured… raw fish, whole river fish, grilled fish, mackeral and miso. Also birthday sponge as it was Mike’s birthday and Terri’s the other day. A nice finish to a long day and an early night too.

15 June, Thursday

55kms

Left 8:15am heading north after a stop at a Family Mart for snacks. Quiet roads past rice fields and slightly up and down terrain.

First stop was “the worlds largest bench seat” (although apparently it is not anymore!). Lovely coastline views and through a fishing and port area.’

A stop at Kadomi House.. a traditional house owned by a small cargo vessel wholesaler, built in the 1870’s. The village looked nearly deserted.. we are not entirely sure where everyone is?!??

Following a lunch stop in the quiet village of Monzenmachi we started biking again, only to immediately stop for an ice-cream! (literally less than 100m from lunch restaurant, but was “shouted” by our Intrepid guides so wasn't going to refuse!).

Then continuing on through country back roads and a long stretch uphill before going through a road tunnel with a bike lane on the side before a rewarding 3km downhill stretch. Early for our 3pm check-in at the town of Wajima… so a stop at a rocky outcrop along the coast before winding around the town a bit.

Hotel is a lovely modern complex, we are on the 7^th floor looking over the sea. After an Onsen (mineral salt water) and a cuppa we headed out for a walk around the town before back to tomorrows briefing and dinner with Fi and G… great company!

Not feeling the effects of all the biking too much …. Yet!

16 June, Friday

80kms, with hills

Apparently heavy rain in the night, some people heard it on the roof…. Not us.

8am checked out then had a wander around the Wajima market… fish and lacquerware (chopsticks etc) and wee bit of pottery. Nothing small caught our eye.

Just as we started off riding it started raining, becoming quite heavy for 30 minutes or more. But then stopped and we dried very quickly as the sun came out.

Stopped at viewpoint Shiroyone Senmeida (1000 rice paddies in Shiroyone) which is rice fields cascading down the hill to sea level.. very impressive. Our next stop after this was at a salt farm that uses traditional salt making method called “Asehama style salt making”. The older man, owner of the family business, talked us through the process interpreted by our guide. He was a fun character and showed us how he could lift 2 buckets of salt water, of 40kg each, on his back from the sea to the road level… very entertaining!

This was followed by a lovely undulating ride along the coast with not a lot of traffic, including through a couple of tunnels too. Followed by a steep uphill of a couple of kms before descending to a funky café and a yummy curry lunch. Onward on the coastal riding now on the east side of the peninsula which looks quite prosperous, bigger and newer houses.

A quick stop at a pottery shop, definitely not an item on our shopping list. Tonight we are in Suzu staying at a smart hotel right by the coast. Sitting in the Onsen gazing out at Mitsukejima (Found Island)… stunning location. The coastline is lovely, its just a shame there is so much rubbish.

A traditional Japanese dinner of lots of fishy things but lots of fun with the company of the group. I have a sunburnt neck tonight so I obviously missed the sunblock!!

An even more fascinating loo than normal, the lid opens and closes by itself and it also self-flushes.. haven’t worked out how it knows when to do that!!?

17 June, Saturday

78km

Already quite warm as we left Suzu at 8am, biking the coastal road and paths around the Noto Peninsula, quite undulating. First stop was a viewpoint then next at a giant squid shop/rest stop located in a lovely forested bay with some small squid fishing boats.

Wound our way through villages… a bit of a head wind at times so with the hills it was tough enough as the pace set was fast enough for us at least.

We did 70kms before lunch and then a 5km ride to the railway station… everyone was shattered. A 20 minute train ride and a quick shuttle ride to our accommodation by the sea. Hotel is 8 story older style but great. Traditional floor sleeping and our last Onsen for this trip, room had ensuite as well, along with traditional Japanese dinner and breakfast.

This has seemed like the hardest day riding, maybe just a cumulative effect, although the day was very hot with less stops.. we are interested to see how the next leg cycling goes (SE Asia). This tour has been pretty amazing really and we have done the big days easier than we thought we would.

Our bikes were dismantled and packed into van at the railway station, we will get them back for one days riding in Tokyo on Monday.

18 June: Sunday

After a traditional Japanese breakfast (which we won’t miss at all.. far too many choices first thing in the morning!!) Tatsumo got us through the train stations to Tokyo.. a local train for a start to Kanazau and then a bullet train to Ueno Station Tokyo. The hotel about a 10 minute walk away, perfect.

Went with T for a walking tour of Asakusa area, 9 of us, which was teeming with tourists… Japanese and Westerners… busy, busy, busy… rows of shops selling matcha ice-cream, frozen strawberries on skewers… and lots and lots of shops selling souvenir stuff/tat!

The number of people has us yearning for the coast again!

T did amazingly well navigating us through train stations/subways without losing anyone… although it was close at times!

By then it was about 5.30pm so instead of going back to the hotel as originally planned we split again with T taking 5 to Shibuyu and Shinjuku were we had gone 2 weeks ago. So we opted out and so did Fi and G… so we all wandered back to the hotel together… which was also a very busy nice vibe sort of place, more local feel. Found a restaurant and had dinner together, then a nightcap at the hotel. A fun evening.

19 June: Monday

Assembled at 8am for a Tokyo tour by bike.. our bikes lined up and waiting for us. We were led by Gucci… who we had met at Kyoto, and Tatsuya at the back with Ryuichi on an e-bike in the middle of the pack. Biked roads, bike lanes and bike paths… around Imperial Palace through to the Olympic Village area. Up a 25 floor City Hall type of building/tower for a city view.

Once past Olympic Village went over a bridge to one of the Tokyo islands, before following around waterfront and finally found a shopping mall with a (very large) Transformer character (Unicorn) standing at the front. An extremely busy place but we stopped there for lunch at a food hall… soba yakkis.

From there it was onwards over paved areas back to our crossing point then under the bridge to follow waterfront paths. Stopped at a park for an ice-cream then finally a brief stop near the Tokyo Sky Tree before arriving back at the hotel. Although Gucci was the day’s tour leader he didn’t tell us much about anything (Tokyo, where we were going, where we were) and at some stages he seemed to go around in circles to get the km up. Although that side of it was disappointing it was a fascinating ride. Along stream areas were there were playgrounds and sitting areas.

From the elevation of the towers visited there doesn’t appear to be much like parks, green space for the sheer number of people but once exploring on the ground there is a lot of hidden spaces.

A very enjoyable but exhausting ride in up to 27C temps. Back to the hotel were the bikes were disassembled and farewelled… they are on their way to Osaka for another tour no doubt.

Noel sorted out our tickets for tomorrow.

Assembled for our final group dinner 6.45pm… minus the Aus family (taking Phoebe to the airport). They had also abandoned todays biking for shopping, along with the walking the day before. Also minus G as she is staying closer to the airport this evening.

Dinner was just around the corner at a hotel with a very ‘yelley/shoutey’ waiter.. we were seated at 3 tables of 6 with Ryuichi, Fi, Mia and Margy so quite good fun.. although according to Ryuichi we were the ‘cheap group’. He’s quite a funny guy.

We were all quite tired, so back to the hotel by 9, after all the goodbyes, and packed up. Leaving hotel at 5.30am for a 6am train to the airport, Narita.

IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN:

Precise: well organised except for people walking and biking on streets

Friendly: in the rural areas particularly

Rural area villages: seemed to have very few people for the number of houses, almost making the towns looked deserted.

Cities teeming with people

No rubbish bins on the streets, but everywhere on streets largely clean

However surprised by the amount of plastic used: disposable everythings.. in hotels bathrooms, plastic bags at bakeries, hand wipes at restaurants etc.

Also saddened by the rubbish from the sea, on the beaches/coast.. as they are scenically stunning areas, Niko peninsula etc.

Helpful people everywhere if approached

After 3 week in Japan we now know 2 words!! Konnichiwa and Arigatou

Not much homelessness, but did see some people in parks on city bike rides who may have been. Some young people around Tokyo train stations.

Efficiency: plus, plus! Rail/bus systems, always exactly on time etc (although R truly shocked when we told him of a 15min bullet train delay at one point). Ability to move the huge population around.

Engineering feats: tunnels truly impressive

Safe place: no hassling

Wacky stuff: musical roads, robots rolling down streets, overhead train line going right through side of building

Not much buildings on hills (earthquake lessons?)

Not much fresh fruit (surprisingly), in fact breakfast fruit was like Watties tinned

Dining rooms separated for groups (ie each couple or group of individuals gets their own little room)

Some City exploring, some sad, some impressive

 7 June, Wednesday

Today was mostly travel as well. Left hotel around 9:45 and headed for Tokyo Central via yet another line, one stop later we reached the station. I am always surprised by which direction the trains come from, a long way from figuring out the system! Anyway, found our way to the station, through the station and onto the platform (even the right one!) and caught the 11:03 Shinkansen (bullet train) to Shin Kobe Station for a transfer to another Shinkansen to Hiroshima.

Arriving at 3:50pm, so 5 hours travel at very fast speeds. The whole way, which seemed new to us, seems more built up and populated than our other travels to date (we had already done the Tokyo-Nagoya section when commencing our Nakasendo hike). Around Osaka was the first time we had seen significant building on surrounding hills. The Kobe to Hiroshima section was through a lot of tunnels, arrived at Hiroshima to walk out the door of the station and our hotel was right there… attached to the station! Didn’t have to cross a road or anything, it has a flash as lobby and a very nice room… bonus! As we had booked on Booking.com after the travel agent had booked us in another town 30km away.. so really pleasantly surprised at the result.

The station has a whole food hall, shopping mall included so a very nice spot to be. We dropped our bags in the room and went snack hunting, ending up eating a meal of noodles from one of the station restaurants, very good it was too! After some domestic duties (ie hand-laundry washing) we went for a walk.

Firstly to the Shukkeien Garden, which was closed! Passed the Peace Crane Memorial, at a school which is Noboricho Junior High School, then through and around the grounds of the Hiroshima Castle. Just starting to get dark and only a few people about so a lovely time to visit. Tee shirt weather too so very pleasant.

Walked all around the castle grounds and the Hiroshima Gokoku Juna Shrine then back around the outside of the moat (dodging seemingly lots of cats) before getting back to the hotel by 9pm. Rather less frantic than last nights Tokyo expedition and a nice way to unwind.

8 June, Thursday

The forecast is for rain all day, not ideal for exploring. After our bread based breakfast at one of the station eateries we trained to Miyajimaguchi Station.. a 30 minute trip and then a 5 minute walk to ferry port and the ferry over to Miyajima, an island in Hiroshima Bay (also called Itsukushima Island). It is known for its ancient temples and giant orange Torii gate which marks the entrance to the Itsukushima Shrine. The shrine was first built in the 12^th century, a well photographed site as the gate appears to float on water at high tide… and for that matter so does the temple. Ranked as one of the 3 best Japan views.

Miyajima means “Shrine Island”. The island has many quiet deer wandering around, they warn you on the ferry to be careful and not wave food (or your ferry ticket) about or they will eat it! The deer were very content when we saw them, most unlike ticket snatchers. The island was very busy, lots and lots of school groups… obviously field trip season.

We wandered through the old town first, finding a couple of temples which encompassed views back to the mainland, and then the Toyokuni 5 story pagoda. The pagoda was built in 1407, a piece of Buddhist architecture. We walked through the Itsukushima Shrine and then wandered the area a little. Still no rain but quite murky, particularly on the hills so although we intended to climb Mt Misen at least part of the way we decided against doing so. Had to find lunch first anyway!

After going to a local grocery store for bread and banana’s, we ate them overlooking the bay. Miyajima is famous for its oysters, with oyster farms evident. The other famous thing is Momiji Manju, maple leaf shaped sweet cakes filled with red beans or other less traditional fillings like chocolate. In the interests of research we purchased a couple of freshly made, still warm, examples.. yum!! They sell them by the box full as gifts, and we watched them being made at one store.

The shopping street of Miyajima was mainly one street although others are dotted around. Souvenir shops which seemed to be celebrating their deer (fluffy deer hats) or Momiji Manju shops, or restaurants/cafes. About 12:30 the rain started so instead of fighting the crowds, and umbrellas, we made a gracious exit and trained back to our hotel. A lovely island, well worth the trip… it was all on our Japan Rail Pass (train and ferry) too so a bonus.

Still raining tonight so a quiet arvo doing a bit of blog etc. Dinner tonight downstairs at the stations restaurant complex, fried rice for Caro and some sort of chicken soup and rice for Noel. All for about $NZ15. Can’t believe how good this hotel is, such a perfect easy location with food halls and small supermarket over 2 floors. A huge choice and busy which is always a good sign.

9 June, Friday

Weather as fine as expected so an explore Hiroshima day. 30 minute walk to the peace memorial park and went to the Hiroshima peace memorial museum. Quite confronting and a very silent stream of people moving through. August 6 1945 at 8:16am

The first part of the museum focused on the personal side, the effects on the people, the personal stories of looking for lost ones, the victims, the burns, the black rain. The destruction with exhibits of fused metals, glass, pots, concrete. Clothing people were wearing, lunchboxes they were carrying etc.

The second part which we hurried through was the specifics of the bombs creation and subsequent dropping onto the city. Very sad and massive destruction at the time. 90,000 to 166,000 died within four months of the bomb being dropped. An estimate of 237,000 people killed, directly or indirectly, over the next five years from burns, radiation, cancer etc. And that has not included the birth defects or the delayed cancers.

Many students were working that morning of the bomb drop, demolishing old houses to establish firebreaks to assist in the event of bombs.

We left the museum to join our pre-booked bike tour. 4 of us on the tour, a Swiss/Spain couple and us. Taken through the park on a 2 hour tour, on e-bikes. Moet (our guide, possibly not spelt that way) had grandparents who had lived through the bombing. One should have been on student duty but was sick that day… he lost his brother though.

We stopped at various spots in the park, which was the epi-centre of the bomb, then cycled 2km away to view what was part of the hospital: a concrete structure with metal window frames (twisted and buckled). The effects of the blast were far reaching. 160 trees survived or recovered from the bomb, now some have been grafted and being planted. One was planted by G7 officials last month.

We were shown the tram car station, amazingly the owner had trams running 3 days after the bomb in order to give hope to the people. Tram 653 was completed burnt out but is running today as a moving memorial to the event.

Left our bikes in a central town park as the peace memorial park was getting closed off in readiness for a flower festival being held this weekend. Obviously a huge annual, except during Covid, event.

After the tour we lunched at a craft brewery downtown, then walked back through the peace memorial park to get some photos. There were numerous school groups about, along with the flower display people, very busy indeed.

Walked to the Shukkeien Gardens via the castle grounds. Lots of carp in the moat that we hadn’t noticed the other night, very obviously used to being fed! A wander around the gardens, historic garden with construction starting in 1620 during the Edo period. The gardens were open to the public in 1940 and became a refuge for people following the 1945 blast.. it had suffered extensive damage however. A lovely place to explore with carp and turtles vying for food, there was also a wedding ceremony at one of the shrines by the lake and photo’s happening also.

Back to the hotel for a cuppa then we walked up the hill to the peace pagoda that we were able to see from the railway station. Erected in 1966 as a prayer for everlasting peace, a steep climb through a cemetery but worth the views of the city. Back to the hotel with the plan to have a drink at the 22^nd floor rooftop bar (we are on floor 10) but very busy so instead went to find our dinner. A Hiroshima specialty called Okonomiyaki… an egg, cabbage, noodle, pork and tortilla type dish cooked separately and layered so that the tortilla is on bottom. Cabbage, egg, cheese, noodle all layered on top. Half each and very nice it was too. Had to queue to await a table, there were 6 chef’s cooking on hotplates in front of the diners. 2 kitchen staff keeping the food supply topped up to the chefs, one barman and 3 or 4 table staff. Very, very busy but fascinating to experience.

Purchased train tickets for tomorrow’s trip to Kyoto.

10 June, Saturday

A slower start this morning as our train didn’t depart until 10:33, so another bakery breakfast at station complex. We then found our train had been delayed 10 minutes, which put the next trains back as well… ours was 7 minutes late by the time we left… unheard of in Japan!!

We had a 20 minute scheduled change time at Shin Osaka so that was reduced to 10 minutes which resulted in a slightly panicked, and quick, walk through the station to find the next platform. Made it so then a quick 20 minutes to Kyoto. All bullet trains, highest speed reached on phone GPS was 297k/h !!

Kyoto station was busy and we had to get the subway for 3 stops, also busy. Dropped our bags at our hotel and went exploring. Lunch first priority, rice and omelette at a small, family run café… probably don’t get many westerners but obviously some as they gave us spoons without even offering chop-sticks… we felt a bit put out!!

A walk around the grounds of the imperial palace, quite different from what we have seen before. Wide gravel avenues with grass areas unkept and trees, no gardens. The palace was used as a residence until 1868 when the emperor and capital moved to Tokyo. There were 2 long walled complexes with several ornate gates, but that was it really. We could have toured one part but chose not to, it seemed all very plain compared to the other grounds we have seen on our travels to date.

Then walked to the Nijo-jo castle, a world heritage site. The Castle was built in 1603 on the orders of Tokugawa leyasu, a shogun. The same chap was involved in the construction of the Nikko castle we visited a few days ago. A big moat and stone walls, we went through the Ninomaru-goten palace mainly to see all the wall hangings in the various rooms. Paintings of pine trees are to denote everlasting strength as they are evergreen and designed to intimidate visiting shogun’s. There was also a tiger room, even though there has never been tiger’s in Japan. Many softer rooms with cheery blossoms and snow topped mountains.

Wandered to the base of the keep tower, very busy and very hot. Still lots of school groups about. The Kyoto palace and garden seems to be plainer than others seen to date. Appears to be lots of European tourists about.

6pm we met our Intrepid guides and group for our cycling trip… 12 clients on the trip, only met 10 as 2 running late due to flight disruptions, plus a van driver and 2 guides as well as meeting a different guide who will lead us on the Tokyo section at end of tour. After all the introductory info most of us went out for a meal with guides.. with a guide ordering lovely food it also seems like an easy group to be with.

Finishing the hiking - Nakasendo farewell and another park

3 June

A 15km walk today (approximately).

Buffet breakfast which was nice and catering for westerners as well: muesli, yoghurt and breads provided. There was fish (gingered sardines) if one so wanted and/or felt you were missing out!

Notable that the same American chap, and his partner, had perhaps thought they must have had protocol wrong after last nights clothed Onsen as they turned up wearing full Yukata gowns... which is not done in the mornings and they were the only ones in a buffet breakfast room full of 40 people! (don't worry, we almost did the same thing at our first night before realising in time).

Out the door of the hotel to catch the pre-arranged taxi which took us to top of hill and cutting out about 4-5km of walking for us (recommended by tour company). Started following track from small settlement of Togue, after an initial false start on wrong turn, no English signs on this part of the Nakasendo Trail so we were a little unsure for the first 20 minutes or so. This is last piece of the Nakasendo we will do, and as per the literature it is very much the most un-developed hiking we have done for the trip… quite a basic route in places.

No rain for the day, with temperatures rising as day progresses to be quite hot. We wound out way down the hill, part way through there was an abandoned settlement. Included a rusted out bus parked up, old school buildings rusting into the ground. Part of the track was obviously a road and through a village previously but very much becoming overgrown. The roading walls still obvious.

Saw a group or 4-5 monkeys high in the trees at one point, but they were very wary of seeing us. Walked out of the bush as we reached civilisation, and through an old railway tunnel which was semi-lit. Part way through I scratched an itch at sock level and was shocked to discover something biting.. flicked it off and then once out of the tunnel and in sunlight we had a “trouser inspection” to find 4-5 slug like things on our pants… Leeches!!!

I had 2 bites, Noel none.. but he found one inside trousers at about knee level and 3-4 on his shoes… yuk.

Continued down the disused rail track to another town called Yokokawa, waited at the station for an hour for train to take us to Takasaki. 34 minutes later through housing and quite a few industrial areas, then from there a bullet train to Omiya then transfer to a different bullet train to Utsunomiya. Then onto a slow train to Nikko… a big day of multiple train trips (but covering big distances very fast at times). We arrived at Nikko around 5pm.

Nikko is a tourist town with wide streets and footpaths, and lots of temples, and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We walked to our ryokan, around 30minutes walk. A lovely place (older) by a clear river which is the Yukawa River. The ryokan is called Tsurukame Daikichi, a lovely Onsen and a nice meal… slightly ordered in delivery but no English menu so a bit of a puzzle.

The first for today were the leeches, we have done a lot of travel in the last 2 days. Tomorrow we bus a short distance into Nikko National Park to stay for 2 nights which will be nice.

4 June

Offered a choice of meat for breakfast, 3 types of fish or horsemeat.. choose one… and guess what, neither of us chose horse.

Leaving our bags at reception we walked across the road to the World Heritage site, a large area of temples and shrines dating back to 1617. Lovely grounds of various shrines: a Shinto and Buddhist mountain of worship. Very elaborate buildings including the Nikko Toshogu shrine which had the stables of the 3 monkeys (see, hear, speak no evil). Also a carving of a sleeping cat guarding the entrance to an inner shrine and the burial grounds of Tokugawa Leyaru who died in 1868, and deemed as bringing peace to the warring factions of Shoguns.

Lots of people about, including lots of school groups.

Back to pick up our bags around 11:30am, caught the bus to Ryuzumotaki up an amazing zig-zag road… 2 lanes both going up, there must be a down road somewhere else!

Off the bus and hiking, first up was the Ryuzu Falls (dragonhead falls) which were spectacular. Coming from the Yukawa River falling 210m down 10m wide terraces. Lots of people about, we followed the falls up via steps before crossing road and followed trail through open bush and wetland area of Nikko National Park.

Lots of track and people wandering through, we walked through to the Yudaki Falls. An impressive 70m high 110m length waterfall coming from the Lake Yudaki. Amazingly lots of people fishing in the river just below the falls, and also in the lake above (boat and wading). The lake is reached by 400m track via zig zag steps. The lake smells quite sulphury. We took the shortest option of the lake loop walk to the town of Yumoto and to our ryokan of Yumoto Itaya. Spotting 3-4 deer on the way into the township.

After reviving cuppa we walked the town which appears to be totally all accommodation hotels. Again seeing quite a few very quiet deer. It’s obviously a very big day visitor place with lots of car parking and a boat hire business etc.

There is a ski field in the area too, described as a small, wide sloped, family field. All the hotels are fed by the sulphur hot springs which are bubbling up at the base of the hill behind the town.

5 June Monday

It’s nice to stay in the same place for 2 nights…and a lovely spot for our walk wind-down with sulphur Onsen's.

Today we did the suggested 15km loop hike from Yumoto. The hike promised lots of wildlife, deer and monkeys. Unfortunately we only saw monkeys and that was at Izumiyadoike Pond rest stop….which we walked past yesterday as well.

We wound our way past the source of the sulphur water and sidled along Mt Mitsudaku, which was a volcano years ago, so hence it’s the source of the hot springs. It was quite a steep climb and we were “tortoiseing and haring” with a group of 4 chatty Japanese ladies.

We stopped at Lake Karikomi which is a lovely mountain lake,  then on past the 2^nd lake of Lake Karikomi, very picturesque. Then along past Nikko marshlands and up 900m to the Sanno Pass. Then down to Kotoku which used to be a farmed area but now all that is there is an ice cream shop selling 1 flavour of ice cream, 1 size of ice cream, and for 1 price ….very nice tho!!! There was also a nearby hotel/Onsen resort.

After being advised by some kind tourists to look at the flowers at the back of the buildings we continued on skirting what would have been a paddock. Then followed the Sakasagava River back to the deer fenced ring of Nikko park: lots more people there, bird watchers with huge cameras… prior to that we had only met 3 others walking plus the group of 4 going the same direction as us.

We walked through the park and arrived at Izumiyadoike Pond where the monkeys were, then back onto yesterday’s trail for a while veering off to see Kodoki Falls. Not super spectacular. Then back to Yudaki Falls and along the left side of Lake Yunoko to be back at hotel by 3.30. A deserved cuppa, Onsen and earlier dinner of 6pm.

It’s been a great place to stay with the sulphur pools, the food a little less “out there” than some of our meals.. they are used to western people although all Japanese people staying here both of the nights.

Overall the walking has been great, we have been very lucky to have avoided the rain. Walking is mainly through trees of some sort and mostly while some variety with the trees, marshland and the like. Probably enjoyed the Nakasendo Trail bit better… although not sure.

The hotels and meals have all become a blur but we are getting used to the food, although there is still a whole range of dishes we are not sure what they are. The beds/floor mattresses (which magically appeared whilst we dined, are comfortable… even if I am not sleeping that well (but that’s me, Caro), Yukata’s to wear lots of fun. Hotel staff have all be really good. Seems to be daylight by 4am at least, temperatures have been great for walking.

It has been amazing to experience Japan this way, and has thrown us in the deep end a bit… but in a very comfortable and easy way. We have had colds, which has been unfortunate.. Caro about day 4, Noel about day 8, which has made it difficult in public, trains, buses and meal times etc due to being heavy nose colds. Most Japanese are still wearing masks, even in the National Parks, and are likely to be sensitive to 2 coughing and spluttering westerners!! At least the colds haven’t prevented us doing anything, just added an additional layer of challenge.

6 June Tuesday

Today was mostly a travel day. Left Nikko Yumoto on the bus at 9am and travelled back to Nikko (where the G7 is meeting on June 24).. on the bus trip we saw signs that we were on a “musical road” but couldn’t hear it, although we had been told of one near Mt Fuji. It rewards you with a tune if you adhere to the speed limit posted and listen (the tyres going over the grooves make the tune). A bit of a wait in Nikko town and then at 21:10 the train left for the Asakusa Station in Tokyo… a 2 hour train journey. During our wait in Nikko we met and chatted to an Australian chap who we had seen a week ago on a section (Turiltoga Pass) of the Nakasendo.

A change at Asakusa got us back to our Tokyo hotel around 3pm. After a cuppa we ventured out, first to Tokyo Station to activate our 7 day Japan Rail Pass.. it is a huge, huge station with multi levels and teeming with people… without Noel and Google I think I would still be underground there till this day!

From there we trained to Shibuya crossing, firstly getting on the wrong train but realising and getting off before it left. This was about 4:30-5 so the trains and stations were getting very busy with commuters. Shibuya crossing was very busy, lots of tourists in the area to view the worlds busiest pedestrian crossing. We watched for a while from a Starbucks overlooking the intersection.

It had started raining too so added to the spectacle with umbrellas hoisted. Lots of western brand shops in the area. We found an English pub (sort of.. a chain pub we think) and had pizza, chicken and chips… a nice change!

Onto another cramped train through a frantic Shibuya station, to travel to the Shinjuku area which is just a chaotic place. Full of people, lights and entertainment.. probably not really in the mood and feeling far too old to embrace it, but is was an eye opener… so many people! Again western style shops, food, bars, pokies… frantic! We did poke our nose in a pet store, puppies and cats with a pet café above, we didn’t go up but perhaps something to try next time. With the rain getting heavier we just wandered a little then back to the station.

Surprisingly got back to our hotel reasonably quickly for a well earned cuppa. The train stations are so, so busy and trains crammed to the max, amazing! Guessing for the worlds most populous city it has to be.

A walk continues ... including a walk in the park

31 May

7.30am breakkie, of all sorts of things; Fish, Miso, Rice, egg roll, pork soup over burner, Japanese picked vege etc etc etc....

Caught the 8:56 train to Yabuhara, a lovely looking new-build post town, and then wound our way up the hill with lots of other hiking groups, who had been on same train, to the Turiltoge Pass. After we had left the town the trail wound up through trees. A 2-3 hour walk ending in the town of Nari. This was a post town of original buildings, which have been lovingly preserved and/or restored, including many laquerware shops. Unfortunately most were still closed as we walked through at around 11am... not sure if it was time of the day or because it was a Monday (post their weekend tourist rush).

Continued walking a couple more km's on to the township of Kiso-Hirasawa where we caught the train through to Matsumoto. The train trip went through horticultural valleys, as well as some large manufacturing plants (although not sure of what exactly).

Matsumoto is a very lovely city, it had lots of shops with English signage so obviously popular with tourists. Also a university town as well as giving us our first glimpse of snowey alps. There is a castle area, the gate-house still original, that we were able to walk around. The castle was built in 1504 by Shimadashi Sadanaga and is a stunning structure. Commonly known as the crowds castle due to its black colour.

We took a bus to our accommodation, located in the foot of the hills bordering the city. Lots of fish for dinner: whole fish (little and big), salmon (raw and fried), fish eggs (maybe?).. a lovely inn.. and we think only one other couple as guests. A town of Azelia's, Wisteria growing wild on the walk today, the area we stayed in being Asama Onsen.

1 June

Left Asama Onsen and travelled by bus back to the Matsumoto central station. Got a train to Shin-shimashima station... transfer to bus for Teisho-Ike. We are definitely on the tourist trail here, the bus wound up the Azura River and over a hydro-dam crossing to the Azura Lake... through numerous tunnels to arrive at Kamikochi which is located in the Chubu-Sangaku National Park. A very busy place, the bus park reminded us of Milford Sound.... busy, busy.

Mostly Japanese tourists, but lots of western folk too. 

We walked a 3-4 km loop of the Kamikochi wetlands. Away from the visitor centre the crowds thinned out a bit. We walked up a river, could easily have been a West Coast NZ river by it's setting, and back past clear spring fed wetlands. The highlight was seeing/encountering Japanese Monkeys on and beside the path in one area. They were not at all worried by people, but were not interacting either. Some had very cute babies clinging to their stomachs or backs!

Back to the bus terminal, and 2 very short bus rides later we arrived at Fujuki Onsen for the night. The lady there could speak some English and advised us of a Typhoon due to hit tomorrow!! There is a 3 hour hill walk recommended for tomorrow morning but not with a typhoon we think! So instead we did around 30min's of it today... a climb up with not much of a view due to the trees but gave us a taste of what it would have been like.

A meal with fish (surprise!!): raw fish, skewered fish, plus beef over the burner… very impressive with a fire pit in the table and soup cooking over it (as well as fish on sticks!!). It is already raining heavily tonight.

June 2

Today turned into a rush… we breakfasted at 7:30am, still raining (heavy), and then our host advised we needed to leave early to get to Matsumoto as the roads are likely to shut in the very heavy typhoon rain predicted. She had worked out how we could leave earlier than expected, and took us to a more convenient bus stop in order to meet connections. The other 2 westerners that stayed last night were being given similar care. Excellent staff service on the hotels part!

So after breakfast we were back in our room by 8:02, quick pack in order to catch 8:16 bus to get us to main bus station of Hirayu Onsen then on an express bus back to Matsumoto. After a reviving coffee and croissant, we changed our pre-booked train tickets for an earlier train… but the ticket office was still printing off at tickets at 11:02 for an 11:06 train, then we both had issues getting through the automatic gates with our tickets… so unsurprisingly we missed that one.

We were directed then onto an 11:30 slow (local) train to Nagano, which was quite full when we got on and by the time we got off over an hour later… very full. Then a wait in a very slow line to get our next ticket times changed for the bullet train to Karuizawa. At 1:22 we were still queued, and the ticket lady was giving us a refund for the slow train bit we had ended up on… but by 1:25 we were on the 1:26 bullet train (and when they say departure at 1:26… they mean departure at 1:26!!!, the train system is all the same, amazingly efficient). This turned out to be very lucky as we heard later that the trains stopped about an hour later due to the wet conditions.

Once at Karuizawa station it was still pouring rain, walked very quickly from the station for lunch at a nearby café and to buy some lunch supplies for tomorrow. Then back to the station to grab a taxi to Onsen Tsuruya ryokan. Karuizawa appears a very touristy town, the taxi drove through the main old part of this post town which was full of tourist shops… however far too wet for us to investigate. Caught up on a bit of admin before Onsen's. Had my most populated one to date with 4 or 5 others there, Noel had some in his too including an American chap that went in with his swimming shorts on… a real no-no and a few disapproving looks from the Japanese.

During the 1970's John Lennon and Yoko Ono apparently spent a lot of time in this area. A point the locals proudly reiterate.

A lovely meal, more production line (waiter was wired for sound to the kitchen), brought out in stages rather than table laden and English menu and English speaking waiter explaining. Lots of fish, no bones, very used to westerners. Main dish a pork hot pot.

Tomorrow is meant to be clear, we are to be ready for a pre-booked taxi by 8:15am. Hopefully the leeches won’t be out in full force.

A hiking we will go....

 28 May, Sunday

A day of many firsts!

Up early and after a 7am brekky we departed the hotel with our day packs laden with enough gear for a 10 day adventure. We left our main bags in the capable (and efficient) care of the hotel staff.

So begins our Nakasendo Self Guided tour.

Subway to Tokyo central rail station, then navigated
our way through the maze to the bullet train platform, the Shinkansen to Nagoya... lots of people in the station but train not excessively full. The bullet train travelled at up to 250km/h, a very pleasant way to travel.

Then a local train to Nagano (Nakatsugawa), and a bus to Magome.. arriving there at lunchtime-ish. The town is a historic and quaint mountain village/post town and was teeming with local tourists plus a number of foreign hikers too. After a noodle lunch we walked up the hill through the village and left most of the tourists behind at that point. 

The path was created/used in 1603-1868 during the Edo (?) period and was one of 5 major routes, this one linking Kyoto to Tokyo for the Shogunate... there were over 69 post towns along the 533km route.

We walked 8.3km to Tsumago along with lots of others going both directions. The walk was through Bamboo and Japanese Cedar forest with warnings of bears. There are bells provided along the trail to 'ring a warning/scare them'. Some of the surface was laid stone work. We arrived at Tsumago at about 4pm and wandered through the pretty village to meet our hotel shuttle at 5:10pm. Just as the shuttle arrived a tour company guide turned up (the only one we would see for the 10 days self-guided tour) and handed us an information sheet and verbal warning on Leeches!!! Due to a very wet forecast for tomorrow the leeches are likely to come out, fangs bared! The sheet listed some of the ways to avoid contact... not to exhale!!, and not to vibrate, or make a noise!!.. may make for interesting walking, not sure how that's going to work with 18km hiking to cover!!

Our shuttle took us to a Ryokan/Inn in the hills, rather flash which places us a bit out of our depths. Had a many course meal tasting a whole lot of things; Carp fish, boiled horse intestine, whole river fish, rice ball, eel, different mushroom/vegetable, plus lots of unidentifiable items! Part of the dining experience, we were in a room with 4 tables and 4 lots of people but all partially curtained off from each other by hessian hanging curtains.

Back to our rooms to find our blinds closed and futon beds laid out on the floor. Now for an Onsen... another first... which (luckily) had lots of written instructions for westerners. Segregated, naked, soaking in very hot water with pre-wash procedures. The soak was lovely, the etiquette is the scary part!!

The whole time in the hotel we are wearing Yukata gowns, it is the thing to do :). There are different slippers for everywhere: inside slippers, outside balcony slippers and special toilet slippers. 

Getting out of Tokyo on the train we could see Mt Fuji in the distance and once out of the cities there were larger looking houses and seemingly every gap of land was growing rice or vege, or being used for solar panels. The countryside is very green with hardly any development on the hills which are covered in Bamboo or trees.

29 May

It's wet.... very wet, as predicted. So after a breakfast of flat fish and tofu, heated on your own gas table cooker, and lettuce, eggs, radish, miso soup, and … lots of other items (mostly identifiable, but not all!) we took the hotel shuttle to Magiso station. This meant we missed the first hour of todays scheduled walk.

Still pouring rain so made the executive decision to continue by train to Kiso-Fukushima where we stay for 2 nights. The hotel kindly took our bags on arrival, we filled in until check-in time by walking around the town which has lots of historic areas. Lots of temples, and a river walk... beside a very high-running and dirty river due to the high rainfall today. Interesting train ride to here with lots of hydro electric plants along the river valley, being fed largely from side river flows entering the main river.

Grabbed a toasted sandwich for lunch in a great little café, our first western type meal and a relief after horse intestines and flat skewered fish :)

Once we checked in we immediately utilised the Onsen, which was very quiet for now. Beating a tour group which is booked, they were on the same train as us and their luggage is all stacked in the lobby.

Dinner was lots!! A very fancy hot dish to cook over the burner, a chicken and mushroom mix. Lots of little appetizers, salmon (raw), buckwheat noodles, miso, little plates of vege (pickled etc) and a gelatine type dessert. Tomorrow as the rain is meant to be cleared we have decided to train back to Magiso and walk the hike we were meant to complete today.

30 May

Yay, the sun is shining so walking the trail we were meant to do will work well. After a breakfast of multiple dishes; Rice, Miso, noodles, slaw, fish, pumpkin, salmon and bacon n egg cooked over burner... we were fortified.

Caught the train back and after a coffee and bread buying exercise in Magiso we followed the trail up through some of the town. Lots of gardens, rice and corn plots, and flowers. Up through forest with pockets of housing and gardens in between. This included a flash looking house with a Maserati parked in the garage (compared to all the tiny cars otherwise that you only see). Also past some Yurts, maybe a glamping AirBnB venture?

It was rather hot and a lot of sweating going on. We wound our way through paths, passing one tour group and meeting 4 others going the other direction. Predominantly American's. Getting to the top through a valley via a valley of steep sided wooded hills, no bears but lots of warnings and bear bells. At the pass a quick stop and a quick calculation that if we walked the final 7km fast we would make the 2:52pm train... so off we raced, all downhill on a paved road and we were in plenty of time to catch the train.

Back to the hotel via a big supermarket so that lunch is all sorted for tomorrow. A green tea and an Onsen to recover... bliss!

Today's walk was over the Nenouetouga Pass, a 14.7km walk. No leeches seen, just a hairy caterpillar (could you write a book about that??), we did see our first livestock however: one sheep, a few cows and some ducks (in their own fenced small pond, didn't bode well for their long term existence).

Wagyu beef, fish and lots of other items for dinner.