2020 Biking Epic part VI - The final flourish

22 September Tuesday: Day 29

Stats: Picton to Resolution Bay by water taxi. Resolution Bay to Punga Cove: 24.5 kms: 8kph

We’re on the last leg of our trip. Up early'ish and packed our “to take” stuff and the rest went in a rubbish bag for storage. Breakfast was provided with the accommodation, it was reasonably frugal, weetbix and peaches, it filled a gap.

Headed for the Cougar boat transport. Our bikes went up on top of the roof, 8 passengers, 3 of which were other bikers and 1 regular with 2 dogs. The boat delivered groceries to the bay Of Many Coves Resort, which looked flash.

Then on to Ship Cove, about an hour from Picton. Everyone except us and the man with his dogs got off here. Not sure how far the bikers were going but the walkers were going to be picked up at Furneaux Lodge in the afternoon. It’s a steep climb to get out of Ship Cove hence the reason we’re giving it a miss. Really windy there today too.

Next it was Resolution Bay and our turn to get off. A less climbing option, less wind too. There was private cabins that I guess you could hire, more rustic looking than the previous resort. Followed the track in front of the cabins and had to push up steep steps, crikey this doesn’t seem easy!!

The surface improved and it wasn’t long before we joined the main track. Further on there was beautiful views of the bays. It was hot out of the wind. Met 1 family biking in the opposite direction to us.

Stopped at Furneaux Lodge for lunch. A beautiful homestead/lodge built around 1900, at the head of Endeavour/Punaruawhiti inlet. There are quite a lot of holiday homes ( not massively big) amongst the bush to the east of Furneaux Lodge …the population must swell for summer.

Continued on, the track became an easier grade, a bit up and down and winding around the coastal edge. Arrived at Punga Cove about 3.30pm.

Really windy here, with the spray whipping up off the sea. We’re in a lovely A frame cottage in the bush, with a fantastic sea view …luxury plus!!! Had a lovely hot spa…bliss!! A bit of reading to fill in to dinner time.

When we checked in, we were given a meal time, as cooking stopped at 6.30, because of winter hours and low staff numbers. The place was very busy. Quite a few hikers and some boaties that were stuck there for the night because of the stormy weather. It was a small café by the wharf, there is a second, bigger restaurant up the hill but it is closed in the evenings at this stage. Anyway a lovely meal with leftovers for tomorrows lunch, clever huh??

Tomorrow is meant to be horrible, rain and wind, and we’re meant to be on the ridgeline….hmm.

23 September Wednesday: Day 30

Stats: Punga Cove to Lochmara Resort: 31 kms: 9kph

This morning it is raining and still windy but less stormy than last night. Breakfasted at the restaurant which was lovely, but somehow we were queue jumped by at least 3 tables which was annoying!!

Packed up and left about 9am. The rain was light but coming through in sheets.

We opted to take the road as the ridgeline would have been wet, windy and miserable …it’s a grade 4 so quite tricky as well. The road dropped down the other side of the peninsula (is that what it’s called??) and followed that coastline. As we first dropped down we rode beside farmland, Murray Grey cattle standing on the corner. Some ram hoggets ran past us, we stopped to let them, shepherded by a farmer in a ute, 3 other rams that were in the yards jumped out upset by the moving mob, lots of drama. We waited until the escapees were behind us then carried on.

The road branched as we got close to the sea. The road, sealed by now, followed the coast, up and down and winding. Still raining and still a few wind gusts.

Stopped for a photo at Portage, Noel’s bike tipped over in a gust, still windy!! There is only the THC hotel/resort and a few holiday homes there, nothing was open.

From Portage we took the road up, to connect us back with the Queen Charlotte track. The track itself was very steep and very slippery!! We pushed our bikes up for quite a while, getting to the top of a  hill, exhausted and bordering on grumpy!! Continued, biking some and walking some, getting to the highest point of the track at 407m asl.

Then quite a bit of downhill, most of it rideable. Turned off to Lochmara lodge, an hours walk down, quicker biking but it means an effort to get back up in the morning! Arrived at the lodge about 2.30pm, via some steps that didn’t seem bike friendly…must be another way!. It was their first day open for the season. A more formal lodge than Punga Cove, last nights lodging, and we were issued wristbands for attractions, most of which had a charge.

We were quite damp and mucky, so a hot shower was very welcome. Went for a walk around the grounds, saw pigs, alpaca, goats and sheep. We also found the bike friendly way to get to/leave the Lodge.

A lovely meal tonight, expensive by our standards, but they have a captive audience. We’ve got a nice room with a tranquil outlook of Lochmara Bay.

It’ll be breakfast in the morning, a climb back to the track. Noel’s organised a water taxi to pick us up from Anakiwa…it’ll be our last day on the bikes …this time round, Wow!!

So far on the track we’ve only met 1 family walking and 1 biker. There were a few hikers at Punga Cove. Tonight there’s 8 hikers at dinner and the 3 bikers that got off at Ship Cove on our first day.... not sure where they stayed last night, presuming Furneaux Lodge.

24 September Thursday: Day 31

Stats: Lochmara Lodge to Anakiwa: 21 kms: 7kph: Last Day biking!!!

Woke to a better day, calm and while not sunny, at least not raining. After a yummy breakfast we left. We were keen to get away before some of the walkers otherwise the track was going to be a bit congested.

The track back to Queen Charlotte track wasn’t as bad as I was anticipating, up but mostly not too steep. Passed 2 couples hiking up.

Once onto the Queen Charlotte track it was immediately steep and we were off our bikes and pushing again. Surprisingly the other party of bikers were off and pushing too. I think they were surprised to see us and reasonably keen to keep ahead of us.

We stopped and walked about 30 minutes up, (leaving our bikes on the track) to a lookout point, stunning coastal scenery!! Met a few more people on the track , a school group and some others walking. A couple of E bikes one of which was pulling a trailer with a little girl in a trailer, he was riding to Lochmara Lodge for an ice cream….crazy!!! The track was mostly rideable just takes concentration.

Arrived at Anakiwa about 1pm. Lots of activity there with kayaks in the water, kayaks about to go in the water, classes on the lawn; mostly teenagers from Outward Bound. The first lot of bikers gave us a clap…which was a nice way to finish!! A couple of lots of walkers finished as we were waiting.

The water taxi arrived 2.45 and we piled on, back in Picton just after 3pm …easy!!

Our trusty steeds take a rest at Anakiwa, the final bike destination after 31 days...

And that’s that!! Done and dusted….my “Epic” for 2020!!!

Total 1287kms: 31 Days

25 September Friday:

Picton to Hanmer Springs:

Up quite early and another  reasonably miserable breakfast. We picked up our rental vehicle, a Highlander, big enough to fit everything in. Left about 9am.

A brief stop at Blenheim Warehouse to buy a couple of towels. Continued on along stunning coastline, appreciating all the hills so much more and going quite fast….. a bit scary being back in a car :)

Really enjoyed the drive down the new State Highway, reinstated after the big Kaikoura earthquakes of 3 years ago. The pull off areas add to the scenery, we had to do a compulsory seal viewing. Lunched in Kaikoura and had a pleasant stroll around the township.

Then onto the "Inland Scenic Route" which is a stunning drive through the Waiau Valley before joining the Lewis Pass road to wind towards Hanmer Springs. Checked into the Youth Hostel, very close to the thermal resort area, and spent a nice couple of hours relaxing in the pools.

26 September Saturday:

On the road reasonably promptly, and just drove really. Back out to SH1, then off again at Amberley to make our way via the inland route. A brunch stop at Oxford and then through to Geraldine, Fairlie and to Tekapo. Had a stop at the antiques shop at Mayfield which is always good for a nosey.

At Tekapo we met up with Mitch and Jen, and met Jen's parents who were in Tekapo for the weekend. Lovely to meet them.

And from there a 3 hour drive home to Arrowtown....

Back, but so happy to have done this trip. One out of the box, out of our comfort zone, but so much fun. And seemingly an ideal time given the post Covid effect and low tourist/traffic numbers about the place.

PS….one of the most fortuitous things to happen was my reading glasses broke the day before we left Arrowtown, thus I replaced them before we left ….two days later and it would have been niggly!!!

2020 Biking Epic part V - Reaching the final target, but not quite!

14 September Monday: Day 21

Stats: Collingwood to Takaka: 40kms 15kph.

Left Collingwood with rain threatening. A rolling road through dairy land mainly but there were some sheep farms... lots of calves and lambs everywhere.

Some beautiful views of Golden Bay but the rain in the hills spurred us on. 5 kms before Takaka is the turn off to Te Waikoropupu Springs which is the largest freshwater springs in NZ, the largest cold water springs in the southern hemisphere, and some of the clearest water ever measured. The springs feed the Te Waikoropupu River. There was a walkway around the springs which we did, meeting a Maori chap with a guitar who was singing, setting quite a surreal atmosphere. The toilets however were disgusting, the worst on this trip …not such a great advertisement…maybe just got there on a bad day?? There is a hydro scheme a further 4 kms away on a different branch of the same road that had been recommended to us as very scenic, but that was a pedal too far on a cold day!

Arrived in Takaka at lunchtime and lunched at a very busy café. Found the YHA hostel and checked in by phone, with someone turning up after 2.30pm to sort us out properly. There is a few others staying (young overseas people), long term. The reason for a reasonably short/early day is because tomorrow is a biggie as far as elevation change!

Checked in and with a few hours to spare we headed off to the beaches, 8km plus round trip away. Turned back after a couple of kms though because it looked like rain. So back to the hostel, showered and walked down the street. That didn’t take too long as there’s not too much there, a few Yaks and Yeti type shops, most shops were shut anyway. The town was bustling at lunchtime but very quiet on a  quite cold afternoon.

After a supermarket shop, we cooked dinner at the hostel using up our Heaphy leftovers. Passed the evening by doing a jigsaw.

Odd happening of the day was finding a pole with a red button and a sign saying “cyclists push this button”…it must’ve tripped a warning light at the other end for motorists as it was a narrow stretch of road…. but it did raise a smile (never touch the red button!)

The forecast is not great for the next couple of days, but thinking we’ll leave tomorrow as it’s too cold to enjoy the lovely Golden Bay beaches anyway!!

15 September Tuesday: Day 22

Stats: Takaka to Kaiteriteri: 52 kms: 13kph

The forecast is for rain at Takaka by 10am and rain at Kaiteriteri by 2pm. We cooked breakfast (porridge and fruit), packed up and left by 8.45am.

The first 20 kms was reasonably flat through mainly dairy country but some sheep farms too. Stopped at Uruwhenua reserve for snacks then through Upper Takaka, which I think is as far west as I’d ever been previously.

Then up and up and up, constant zig-zagging up to the 791m summit. 22kms took us about 2 hours. We could see the rain coming behind us, we even had a little bit of a tail wind at times…every bit helps!! Got a few encouraging toots on the way up …even from a police car so that was nice too.

We stopped just after the top and put more clothes on as we’d stripped off on the way up and it was getting colder and it was starting to rain. Very enjoyable but cold going down the hill.

3/4 ‘s of the way down we get to a roadworks sign asking cyclists to compulsorily stop and phone an 0800 number for a shuttle?...odd we thought, but that’s what we did! And it worked!! A shuttle from the other end of the roadworks is coming up to carry us and our bikes through the traffic light controlled roadworks…health and safety regulations through a tricky patch of roadworks that has all traffic controlled. There was heavy rain as we were waiting for the shuttle but luckily the roadworks man at our end let us share his shelter. The shuttle arrived and took us 3-4 kms through the roadworks. We were the drivers first and maybe only passengers for the day, she reads a lot to fill in the time.... now there's a job for you! Yay…still a bit of light rain and 7kms to Kaiteriteri.

Along the way to Kaiteriteri we came across and were able to use the Great Tasman Taste Trail, which ran beside the road.

Arrived at Kaiteriteri about 2pm and booked into a lodge/backpackers for 2 nights. We’ve got an ensuite so that is a bonus!! We’re a bit wet but not soaked through. By the time we’d showered it was raining heavily but it stopped again later on.

Went for a walk. The beach is beautiful and mostly deserted, but it is quite a cold day. A takeaway burger bar is the only option for tonight, seems like everyone’s summer season is cranking up from this coming weekend, until then it’s slim pickings obviously.

We’ve already got our accommodation booked for the next 3 nights so it’s a slow trip to Nelson. This is deliberate so we manage to schedule in a (weekend only) ferry crossing. The forecast isn’t looking great for the next few days but Central Otago is meant to get high winds and snow and the Haast road has been shut with slips so we’re not too badly off where we are.

16 September Wednesday: Day 23

Stats: Kaiteriteri to Marahau, and back: 23km: 12kph

There is fresh snow on the mountains after the cold wind and rain of yesterday.

A day (3/4s anyway) of exploring. After our porridge we biked to the Split Apple walking track 4 km’s away or so the sign said. A mainly uphill ride. As we were reading the sign at the start of the 15 minute track a local lady kindly offered for us to park our bikes in her yard so that’s what we did.

Walked onto Split Apple beach, luckily the tide was going out. A beautiful spot to sit and contemplate, a few others about too.

Uphill back to our bikes then back to the main road. Went around an estuary and stopped for a cuppa at Marahau. Then biked to the start of the Abel Tasman track. A few vehicles parked up, the track must be pretty quiet. Lots of businesses along that strip, shuttles, kayaks, accommodation and food all shut down for now.

Biked back to our lodge. Finished off last nights chips. Then went for a walk to Breaker bay, (close by) and up to a pa site and along the beach to Little Kaiteriteri. Lovely scenery but a cold wind even though the sun is shining. Burgers for dinner again.

17 September Thursday: Day 24

Stats: Kaiteriteri to Motueka: 33kms: 12kph

A cruisy day. Left by 9.45am. There were carpet layers lifting and laying new carpet in the hallway and they were keen to gain access to our room. On the bonus side I got some carpet offcuts to strap to and cushion my back bike bag as it has been rubbing and making a  hole in the outer material, ideal and timely repair!

With time to fill we took the bike park/big easy bike track out of Kaiteriteri, a winding, up and down track through bush. It was classed as an “easy” in the large bike park located there. Repeated a short section that we did the other day, then turned towards Riwaka, past orchards.

Noel had a café lined up for morning tea, the Ginger Dynamite which was serving out of a container and had a 2^nd container for indoor seating furnished up like a late 70’s lounge, nice.

Wound past orchards of apples, kiwifruit and grapes, I think. Along the estuary shoreline of Motueka. Lots of people walking and biking. Motueka has a sand spit that is home to lots of sea birds.

Followed the shoreline past some flash houses, then veered off and popped out on to the main road at the eastern end of town. Constant traffic on the main road which runs right through the centre of town. Decided we would ask if we could leave our bikes at the Top 10 campground as we were too early to check in, but they checked us in anyway which was nice.

Walked the main street for lunch. Bought a few groceries and some tape for my carpet repair.

After a cuppa at our unit we went for a ride further along the estuary to the Motueka port, which is now a Talley’s base. Looped back the other side of the tidal waterways. There is lots of trails available to use, with farmland up to the boundary of the town.

Dinner out at a burger place that specializes in donuts during the day…the donuts are “world famous in Motueka” and listed no 3 in things to do in this town. So morning tea tomorrow maybe??? Plus their burgers were delicious.

18 September Friday :Day 25

Stats: Motueka to Mapua: 30kms 11.5 kph.

It rained last night, started 10pm and stopped and cleared 10 am this morning just as forecast. There is a bit of fresh snow on the tops again and a cold wind.

Delayed leaving the campground until 10am hoping to avoid the rain. First stop was 2 minutes into the ride for a world famous donut, the ones we spotted last night. Yum, a very decedent morning tea!!

We rode the back streets and paths some of which we were on yesterday to get to the western end of the town, thus avoiding the busy main street. Next stop was Toad Hall Café/shop, the food looked stunning but we couldn’t possibly eat more so soon.

Continued following the Tasman Great Taste trail, past orchards through the lower Moutere area then up over a hill. A rural area with lifestyle blocks and lots of new housing, lovely views all directions. The track headed back down to the coast and the district of Tasman. Stopped at a weaving shop and the storeowner gave us a demonstration of loom weaving…looked complicated!!

Stopped at the Jester Café, which was an interesting mix of stuff. A “old woman in a shoe” house for overnight accommodation. A farm playground with statues of tigers, penguins and wooden elephants. Compostable toilets servicing the café. A stream running through the property had 10-12 eels milling around waiting to be fed and of course you could buy pellets to do just that, they reached half out of the water when they saw someone coming, just a little scary!! Also nice scones and muffins to keep us on track.

Continued on past Ruby Bay to Mapua. After a walk around the wharf area, which was busyish, we went and found our B&B which wasn’t too far away. It’s a lovely unit incorporated into the owners house.

This afternoon we booked a restaurant for dinner, being Friday night the township gets quite busy. Walked around the estuary, the tide was completely out. A very cold wind blowing through.

Dinner tonight at a Mexican restaurant/brewery….great beer and food.

19 September Saturday: Day 26

Stats: Mapua to Nelson: 33km: 13 kph

Up, breakfasted and ready to go by 9.30am. The first ferry crossing to Rabbit Island, a regional park, was 10am. The whole reason for dawdling the last few days was to catch this ferry, which was only running on the weekends for the winter season.

It’s a beautiful day and that cold wind has dropped. Crossed on the ferry (a 5 minute ride) with 8 other bikers, we were the only 1 way tickets I think. The ferry is the official link on the Nelson Great Taste cycle trail, although an alternative follows roads.

Had to wear masks for the ferry ..public transport, as per regulations for Covid level 2 (but as this is the first public transport since trip started, all new for us. The Farewell Spit tour was not public transport as such.... regulations splitting hairs at times!)

Followed a track (there were lots of them) around the edge of the island, to the bridge/laneway joining the island to the mainland. Continued on the track along the edge of the Waimea inlet estuary and past apple orchards. Followed the edge of the Richmond area estuary, a lovely track that gets lots of use. Nothing to taste though and we’re starting to get hungry!!. Got to the 20km mark and a T intersection, Richmond or Nelson?

We opted for Nelson and took an underpass under the very busy main road …missed the first one though, finding the signage a bit ambiguous. Thinking the trail managers are locals, and they know where to go. (Noel actually sent in some feedback on the trail signage in this case, got a lukewarm email response). We got onto a different trail, the old Nelson railway line. Veered off from that to find a lovely café beside the Stoke tennis courts.

After lunch rain was threatening. We opted to stay on the inland route into Nelson. Again the signage seems to be lacking a bit. We were sort of still following the old railway line. At one stage Noel shot off down a narrow underpass and pushed his bike up steps on the other side …wrong way!!

Arrived into the Nelson city centre and with rain still threatening we found our motel. Lucky we’d booked because the motels mostly had ”no vacancy” signs out. Saturday night and weekend visitors rather than special events. After a cuppa and a shower we were revived.

Went for a walk up the main street. Up church hill and a look in the Nelson Cathedral. Then around a few streets, including the oldest most complete street in NZ, established 1860’s. There were 2^nd hand shops about but nothing open by the time we got there, (probably just as well, we haven’t got room to buy stuff anyway!!). To the supermarket and then a quick, wetting walk back to the motel.

Dinner at the nearby Workshop Brewery, nice!!

20 September Sunday: Day 27

Stats: Nelson to Havelock: 74 kms: 17kph.

A spectacular blue sky day. Left at 9am this morning, keen to get going as it will be a longish day.

We were on bike trail for the first 5-6 kms. The tracks are very good. Then continued on road past farmland and lifestyle housing.

Then up and over the Whangamoa's, the first a 466m asl climb to the Whangamoa Saddle. A long winding climb, the gradient wasn’t too steep. We were passed by lots of motorbikes and classic cars; MG, Morgan, Bentley, Lotus, Porsche etc obviously out for a Sunday drive. On our way down that hill we stopped and lunched at a Forestry reserve. Continued down and up the steeper, newly configured road going over Rai Saddle at 240m asl. It was getting hot!!

Wound our way down, coming out into the Rai Valley, a dairy area. Actually biked right past an open café (unusual for us!), just not hungry. Met another (the first) “real” loaded up cyclist as we were going down the last hill. He may have been doing the Cycle Aotearoa trail as he was hunched over his phone and didn’t see us until we yelled a greeting. If he was then he had missed a turn off!? Lots of cars coming towards us, Fords and big American cars…a club run somewhere??

Stopped at Pelorus bridge, a big DOC area of walks and campground. And they had a café …now that was perfect!! It was a very busy place. Went for a 30 minute walk through bush and over a swing bridge. It was at the confluence of the Rai River and Pelorus River.

Continued on a lovely, flattish ride to Havelock. passing Canvas Town which is a small, tidy looking town, just off the main road, a lot of motorbikes sitting outside the pub as there was in Rai too. Early spring sunny Sunday bringing everyone out with their toys!

Got to Havelock at about 4pm, staying at a lovely motel (Havelock motels and Motor lodge). Got our laundry done with the assistance of a really helpful proprietor and a soak in a cedar hot tub which was lovely.

Dinner at the “Mussel Pot”. Havelock is the  “green mussel capital of the world”, it’s a huge industry. They gather Spat, a lot from 90 mile beach and then grow them on strings. They are amazing creatures, each one filters about 300 litres of water a day to feed. Anyway yummy to eat too, we sampled steamed, grilled, smoked, marinated and battered... all good!!

It’s quite a busy town.

21 September Monday: Day 28

Stats: Havelock to Picton 36kms: 14kph

This morning we packed up, left our bikes at the motel and went for a walk to find breakfast. Mission accomplished, then a walk past the marina, lots of different boats of all shapes, sizes, ages. Quite a few people lined up for tours …there’s a postal boat/mail delivery tour on certain days and also mussel farm and sound tours.

We left, taking the scenic route between Havelock and Picton. Wound our way up a hill to a lookout, lovely views. There’s a cycle track, not complete yet, but established in some sections along this route, but seeing the start of it was steep and rutted we stuck to the road, which was not very busy.

We hugged the coastline, at  Mahakipawa Arm there were quite a few houses tucked away. Then away from the coast through Linkwater, a dairy area, and back to the coast and Grove Arm which was another settlement.

Stopped at a DOC picnic spot for a cuppa, Anakiwa was on the opposite side of the water . We were entertained by a duck with her 8 ducklings, she was teaching them that humans have food that they might like to share, they were right at our feet.

Then the road was up and windy, some lovely settlements, I’m guessing mostly holiday homes. Momorangi Bay had a DOC campground on the beach, Ngakuta Bay was quite big. Just took our time and ended up watching log loading at Picton Port for a few minutes then further on car/truck loading on both the Blue Bridge and the Interisland ferries.

Got to the Yacht Club hotel at 2.30 or so. Quite flash for us but they will store our surplus luggage while we do the Queen Charlotte, and it must’ve been a bargain price too!!! Showered and sorted,  then went for a walk, quite a cold wind. Got a couple of things from the supermarket. Back to the hotel to sort what we need to take and what we can leave behind on the next expedition.

Dinner at The Whistling Pig Pub, a good meal and friendly service too.

Unfortunately we might have winds and rain on this next leg, Wednesday mostly, but it’ll be what it is , at least warmish temperatures.

2020 Biking Epic part IV - Up and over

10 September Thursday: Day 17

Stats: Karamea to Lewis Hut Heaphy track: 41 kms: 9.6kph

This morning started off promising then it rained as predicted… quite heavy rain!!

We’ve managed to pack everything on our bikes and have avoided using backpacks, which is great. An easy bike ride of 15 kms to the start of the Heaphy track. It’s really heavy rain now. After a banana, toilet stop and photographing some tramper's about to start (we offered, they were most appreciative), we were off, it was 11.30am. Noel has walked this track 30 something years ago but for me it’s a whole new experience!!

The first part was very rocky and very steep, up and down and it’s still very wet. There was a bit of walking/pushing happening and I was worried the tramper's behind us would catch us up. Met a group of older bikers that had varying body parts bleeding (not profusely), very little gear as they had helicoptered into the start of the track the day before and were desperate to finish the track... they’d have been in Karamea by (late) lunchtime.  I’m thinking this might not be a Caro type of adventure.

Stunning coastal scenery, sandy beaches, boulder beaches and Nikua palms. Stunning but too wet for photo’s!! Stopped at a shelter, about half way to Heaphy Hut, for lunch (12.30ish pm). There was a German backpacker also sheltering there, complete with a day pack and shopping bags. He’d seen a kiwi at Perry saddle hut.

Stunning coastal scenery, albeit a tad wet and cold to enjoy it completely

Didn’t stop for long as the cold was seeping in to us, still pouring. The track was easier riding, a less rocky surface, less steep ups and downs, through Nikua forests, absolutely stunning!! May have to do this bit again sometime on a fine day!!

Arrived at the Heaphy Hut about 1.30pm and warmed up by the fire for ½ an hour. There was 1 couple there and more arriving as we left. The rain was clearing too, as predicted. We headed away from the coast following the Heaphy river, a narrow track but less tricky than earlier, muddy in places though.

Arrived at the Lewis hut and unpacked and changed as everything was damp to sodden. A couple were there who owned/worked for a local guiding company. They were setting up with utensils etc as this hut is a lunch stop for their, yet to begin summer, tours. They left for the Heaphy hut at about 5 pm so we are on our own and since it is getting dark it’s unlikely anyone else will turn up.

Drying out, warming up

It’s an older hut with a row of mattresses on bunk benches, it’s got gas elements, some pots and a coal pot belly which works but is not roaring. We have hung all of today’s clothes up to dry. We went for a walk back to the swing bridge hoping to spot a kiwi, we could hear one and we saw big kiwi footprints by the river but unfortunately no kiwi to be seen.

There is a very small candle for light so it’s an early night for us. Really appreciate having the hut to ourselves. All track huts, throughout the country, are on limited booking spaces due to Covid. This allows 'social distancing' so only half occupied at maximum anyway. 

It’ll be a big day for us tomorrow.

11 September Friday: Day 18

Stats: Lewis Hut to Perry Saddle Hut Heaphy track: 37kms: 6kph

A very tough day!!!

Up at 6.30am, luckily most of our stuff has dried. I had added a few lumps of coal on my middle of the night toilet expedition. I slept pretty well, but still tired as finding the track surface needs a lot of concentration.

Left the hut just before 8am and the climbing started immediately. Started off quite well with a good surface. I had huge trouble with almost all the bridges, going uphill most had lips to get onto and I wasn’t going quick enough to get over that lip so had to get off and push each and every one. When I say bridges, they are just small and cover the various water channels removing water from the track sides. The majority of bikers do the track in the opposite direction and hence the reason for the lip on the bottom side of each bridge.

There was a, reasonably large, tree across the track which must’ve happened during last nights stormy weather. We had to lift the bikes over, very tricky!! Pleased Noel was there with his muscles!? (EDITORS NOTE: aww shucks!)

"You shall not pass!!"... tree over track, time for some technical thinking to pass it

Met 3 hikers on their way down the hill and there were 2 at James McKay hut. It took us (me mostly)  nearly 3 hours to get up that hill….a huge effort!!! Stopped at the hut for soup and crackers, ideal!!

Looking from James McKay hut back to whence we came (mouth of the Heaphy River visible on the coast)

A smoother, quicker ride to Saxon hut, meeting a few hikers on the way. The hut was a lunch stop for lots of people but we still saw the resident Takahe grazing on the lawn…very cool!!! As we left the hut 1 DOC worker, that was checking traps, was waiting for a helicopter to pick her up.

Rode through some cool limestone country and could see a big cave/arch in the distance. It was a reasonable track to the Gouland Downs hut. Saw 2 Takahe crossing the track just prior to the hut. There were several DOC staff waiting on a helicopter, some flying out, some staying.

It was 7 kms to the Perry Saddle hut, I was getting pretty tired. The surface was quite rocky (big rocks) and uphill so I probably walked the last 3 kms to the hut.

The hut was a welcome sight, getting there 5.30ish pm. 2 people already there and another 6 mountain bikers turned up later. The hut is relatively new so it had solar lights as well as a coal fire and gas stoves. Cooked dinner, drank tea ate chocolate etc and an early'ish night. A couple of other people arrived with head torches on then a couple more after we went to bed.

We’re both knackered , it’s been a pretty big day!!!

12 September Saturday: Day 19

Stats: Perry Saddle hut to Collingwood: 52 kms:13kph

I didn’t sleep so well, but can’t blame our room full of people as they were very quiet. They were up by 6.30am, so we did too. We were breakfasted and packed by 8.30am . We looked positively overpacked compared to the other bikers, most of who were shuttled by plane one way and biking back. Got some sideways looks because of this until one asked us... and were stunned that we had biked there from Arrowtown!!

Left our pot behind, turns out we didn’t need it, we would have got by with what was in the huts anyway.

Quite a cold wind blowing. The first half down was quite a rocky surface, hard to negotiate, so there was a bit of walking. Once it got a bit easier it was fine, probably a third of the way down. Arrived at Brown hut about 11.30am. Met quite a few bikers, 1 big group doing the whole thing, 1 couple doing a day trip and some mountain runners with not much gear so they must’ve been doing the whole track in a day perhaps... mad!

Back on an actual road, gravel at first. Up a steep hill, ouch. Stopped to see a swing bridge historic site on the Aorere river. Then onto Bainham and Langfords store (world famous in Bainham... no, actually appears of few calendar photo's etc), which is an eclectic mix of antiques and other stuff for sale, and a café famous for it’s Devonshire teas. We had an ice cream and soaked up the glorious day!! This whole area is dairy farms, the calves are out in the fields, the stock and farmland look great.

Arrived in Collingwood about 3.30pm. Quite buggered!!! Very pleased to be here and getting a very warm welcome at Collingwood Park Motel. The motel lady checked to see if we could do the Farewell Spit bus tour tomorrow, sadly we can’t because the social distancing is still in place at Covid Level 2 and they can only take half their normal numbers. However Paddy, the chap that runs the tours turned up before he closed to say he’d rejigged the seating and had space for us, yay!!!

So booked a 2^nd night at the motel. Got our laundry washed and dried too which is always a bonus.

Went for a short walk through the town. Collingwood is in a stunning location, lovely sandy beaches to the north and south. Dinner at the Collingwood tavern.

The Heaphy track is the longest “great walk” in NZ, quite a bit of variety , fabulous to see Takahe particularly but all the bird life in general. Nice to see the older tramping huts still operational, and obviously a popular track for day trippers from either end. Maybe I would bike it the other way, I’d be very keen to bike or walk from the Karamea start to the Heaphy hut, that coastline would be spectacular on a fine day!!

13 September Sunday: Day 20

Stats: None …another day off!!

We were very lucky to get booked on this tour to Farewell Spit yesterday, so really appreciate the opportunity... and we are not disappointed.

With Paddy our driver/guide and 9 other passengers we left at 8.30am, (leaving times vary according to the tides). Picked up 1 extra at the locked gate at Puponga, triangle flat. You can  park here and walk on 4 kms of the spit, but our tour has the only vehicle access allowed. Farewell Spit became a World Heritage site 13 August 1976.

It was windy, Paddy estimated 30-35 knots, so the sand was flying along the surface. Getting to the north side of the beach the bus got stuck in the soft sand, everybody had to get off the bus and the men pushed it onto firmer ground. (EDITORS NOTE: aww shucks again!)

Went to Fossil Point, the most west we could go on the beach, impressive with it’s rocks and caves. Then east to the Farewell Spit lighthouse which was first opened in 1870 with a wooden structure  and replaced in 1897 by the current steel structure. It is the 2^nd tallest lighthouse in NZ at 27metres.... although hard to realise it is as it sits on pretty much flat land one a couple of metres above sea level! Macrocarpa trees planted around the houses make it a sheltered hot spot at ground level. Had a cuppa in one of the lighthouse keepers house. The lighthouse was automated in 1984 so the houses are well preserved and still used as accommodation for research purposes.

We then headed east of the lighthouse to see Gannets flying in. There’s a colony there and spring is when the numbers increase and nesting activity begins. Some Gannets were flying with seaweed in their beaks for their nests, must be strong flyers as the wind was very strong. Also saw Cassaway Terns, which are quite big, Black Oyster Catchers and  a seal lying on the beach. Also after leaving the beach and passing an estuary there was some Spoonbills.

Climbed a sand dune and ran down, the wind was crazy strong, we could hardly stand up!

We drove back to Triangle flat and around to Cape Farewell, a formidable place in rough weather I expect. An absolutely brilliant tour, getting back to Collingwood at about 2.30pm.

Cape Farewell.... last point of NZ viewed by Captain Cook and his crew as they departed after their discovery circumnavigation of New Zealand in the 1700's

Had a late lunch from our leftovers. Getting quite windy and cold here now so just relaxed and did a bit of reading.

Tonight we went along to the food cart for burgers, it was meant to be open until 7pm but it was closed, too cold for patrons probably as well as the lowered numbers about due to Covid. So dinner at Mad Café, a slightly alternative place, the food was lovely. A brief walk to the end of a street to see the lighthouse working.

Heading to Takaka tomorrow, looks like rain is coming too unfortunately!!

2020 Biking Epic part III - Top of the Coast

6 September Sunday: Day 13 (Fathers day)

Stats: None …a rest day !!!!

Woke to pouring rain. Which didn’t stop until lunchtime, then the sun came out and it was quite warm. The gardens here have lemon trees growing in them, so no frosts here!

Had a restful, longer than usual sleep in. Then went to the supermarket for breakfast/lunch things and some wool wash for our laundry. Just a lazy morning really, got our washing washed and dried, Noel adjusted Heaphy track hut bookings, paid some invoices and caught up on some correspondence. We’ve been using the Lilliput/community share libraries to get and exchange books as we go , works out great although the overall choice is based on book size more than subject!! (ie our bikes can't handle carrying a full set of the Encyclopaedia Britannica)

After lunch we went for a walk down the street. Then followed a walkway to the sea. A very rough looking sea and a wood/tree/driftwood strewn beach showing a rough sea is not unusual. The tide must have been mostly in, and the Buller river was flowing full with some sizable tree branches flowing out to sea. The waves were wild. There were a lot of people, mainly locals, driving the spit to watch the sea/river, a Sunday pastime perhaps??

Interesting to note, although completely understandable, the rather sad memorials to the fishermen/boaties lost at sea. Epitomised by a memorial on the end of the Westport spit, where the Buller river meets the Tasman sea.

Back to the hostel for a cuppa. We’ve booked to go to the movie RAMS this afternoon, a Father’s Day special screening, we’d seen the shorts in Arrowtown recently and thought it would be funny. Turned out to be not so funny and not what we expected but it was quite good.... as well as a sum total crowd of 4 people watching, so not such a special result for the theatre.

Had dinner at Johnny’s restaurant which was busy with father’s Day diners but starting to empty out by the time we arrived there. This place was recommended by Graham as it is run by another FIL company person and his wife. It was a lovely meal, and we had a quick chat with Johnny (and his wife) before heading home.

The rather imposing YHA hostel in Westport

That was our rest day, tomorrow a 50km ride to Seddonville awaits.

7 September Monday: Day 14

Stats: Westport to Seddonville: 52 kms 16.2 kph.

Back to our 7am starts, and to the supermarket to sort breakfast.

We were packed up by 9.30am and after chatting with the owner, an ex fisherman, we left. We cruised the main street op shops looking for a saucepan we could use on the Heaphy track. Found a $5 one in the SPCA shop, perfect!!!

Headed north through farmland and life style blocks. We could see Denniston Plateau in the hills to the east. A historic area open to the public  however up a steep road.  Coal is still mined at the nearby Cascade mine and Stockton which is NZ’s largest  open cast mine. We were being passed by, and could see, truck and trailer units going up to the mine. But it seemed like one hill too many so we rode on past the turnoff, …one day maybe when we have a motor attached!!

Once we got to the township of Granity we followed the coast. Granity is right on the coast and the school has been on TV as they are losing their grounds to coastal erosion. The town has houses all along the seafront and huge rock reinforcing has been done. There didn’t seem to be any public beach access until we were out of town. Not much in the town itself, a closed down café was about it’s lot.

Continued to Ngakawau (merges with Hector), and stopped at it’s visitor centre and then at an old pub for lunch. Lunch options were limited so opted for wedges and sat outside in the 'almost' sunshine to eat. The town is the northern point of the Stockton open cast mine. It still is a  huge coal mining operation, big buckets of coal being moved by gondola down the hill. The coal then being transported by rail to Lyttleton.

Stockton mine processing plant, look closely to spot the large gondola's bringing coal down from the mine

From Ngakawau we followed rugged sea/coastline for a bit then lifted into native bush clad hills. There was some very smart new housing between Ngakawau and Mokihinua. Rode into Mokihinua as it was off the main road. It is a small beach settlement mainly holiday houses and a campground. The beach/sea doesn’t look the most hospitable for a holiday settlement.

Carried on to Seddonville, a small settlement of a pub/motel and a campground in a farming (dairy) valley. Originally a coal mining area, then a timber milling area and now it’s the nearest civilisation to the start/finish of the Old Ghost Road cycle/hike trail.

Sat and ate our bread while we waited for the pub owner to open at 4pm. A quite nice motel unit attached to the hotel. Dinner tonight at the pub at which the owner/motel manager/barman cooked. Talked to a few locals and 3 others also staying, 1 Queenstown, 1 Christchurch and 1 White baiter. The pub is for sale (like many we have seen) but we imagine it is probably a reliable business being just on the end of the Old Ghost Road trail... particularly over summer.

The day off yesterday didn’t seem to do either of us much good, we’re both a bit achy in different bits tonight. I’m a bit disappointed that with nearly 2 weeks cycling and a day off I’m feeling a bit lethargic today, when does the fit and strong feeling kick in??? Apparently we have a big hill up and down, up and down tomorrow morning…well we’ve been warned!!!

8 September Tuesday: Day 15

Stats: Seddonville to Karamea: 57kms 14 kph

We’ve been gone 2 weeks today ,wow!!

Our owner/barman etc (literally chief cook and bottle washer!) cooked us breakfast and then we left at about 8.45 am. Back down the road we arrived on yesterday afternoon's turnoff after about 2 kms. Saw a roadside squashed Weka about the same spot that we stopped yesterday and photographed a live one …hmm??

So a climb up the Karamea Bluff, which was what we were warned about last night. It was just head down and pedal,  quite brutal zig zags to 420m above sea level and we literally started at sea level!. It’s a bit ominous when you could hear a vehicle coming down toward us then silence as the sound got lost in the corners.

Puff is right, can only agree with the wag who changed the summit sign from "Karamea Bluff"

At the top you could see where we had been yesterday, Mokihinua, and also lots of white baiter’s on the river below. Whitebait season on the West Coast only started 1 September and ends 30 October so white baiters have been out in force on the rivers, on the roads with Utes loaded with 4 wheelers, nets and chilly bins . We’ve even managed to eat some, yum!! The lady in the last nights next door motel unit was booked in for a month and whitebaits 5am to 5pm every day…serious stuff!!

After conquering the Bluff we zig zagged down to the flat of Corbyvale then up again over Taffytown hill, and then thorough bush and out onto dairy country .

Stopped at Little Wanganui tavern for lunch. A very tidy pub with a campground attached. Recently though by an English couple, very nervous having taken it over in these Covid times when we chatted to them. A really nice place so good luck to them!!

Continued along flat road with the coastline in view. All dairy farms , very tidy and the stock looked great, lovely looking farmland. Smarter/newer homes too so maybe a prosperous area.

Arrived in Karamea about 2pm and went to the visitors centre to enquire about the caves/arches of Oparara basin in the Kahurangi National Park’. A very informative lady helped us, she was shocked at our bike expedition, thought we were totally mad!!  Anyway works out the way to see the most is to drive to the trailhead, then take a guided tour of the Honeycomb cave in the morning, the only way to see the cave is with a guide. We can then do the arch walk and a bit of exploring by ourselves in the afternoon. She booked us onto a tour and organised us a rental car which will be delivered to our accommodation tonight. Easy!!! Turns out Karamea has been busy with NZ tourists all winter which is usually their quiet time.

Biked down to the Karamea Village hotel, our accommodation for 2 nights but it was closed until 3pm so biked to the end of the road to an estuary track where we ate our vegemite sandwiches. Back to the hotel and checked in to a motel type unit, older and roomy. While Noel showered I biked back to the towns 4 square and purchased some breakfast supplies.

The rental car was delivered to our door, so we were able to drive to the towns main beach to watch a stunning sunset. The beach is a long stretch of sand and round rocks of various colours. The beach seemingly not as wild as Westport or Mokihinua beaches.

Back to the hotel for a lovely meal.

I’m feeling better on the bike today. Noel is really suffering, his bony bum not having enough padding :), so finding his seat very uncomfortable after a short time riding. Saddle soreness, chaffing, I’m goggling seat settings to see if height, angles and such should be adjusted.

Looking forward to tomorrow. The info lady was reassuring about the Heaphy track too, so feeling better about our lay day booked. There will be options if the Heaphy is too ambitious for us.

9 September Wednesday: Day 16

Stats: None!!

A day in the Karamea area with a rental car.

Left hotel at 8.40am for the Oparara Basin about ¾ hour north, firstly up sealed road then 16 kms of winding gravel road bordered by bush.

Arrived at the top carpark and our guide Cliff was already there as was an American couple. A UK couple turned up soon after. Both other couples were Covid refugees, having been in NZ from shortly before lockdown and making the decision to stay touring for an extended stay rather than return to their home countries.

We walked into the Honeycomb Hill Caves, which is guided tour only access, which took around ¾ of an hour to reach. Our guide pointing out all the NZ natives trees, Coprosmas are from the coffee family …who knew?? The USA lady on the tour putting the NZ natives to shame with her plant knowledge!!

Entered the caves with our helmets and lights on and spent about an hour underground. It was stunning, nothing too tight to squeeze through. We saw stalactite's, sink holes, elephant feet (bacterial growths), moa bones, deer bones (fell through tomo’s), giant snail shells ( also fallen through tomo’s) and glow worms. Amazing big cave system, some tributaries fenced off for research purposes.

Moa skeleton, would have fallen through a Tomo (hole) into the cave system hundreds of years ago

Walking back to the carpark we watched a helicopter bringing in a water tank for a new toilet block. Back at the carpark we were given a cup of tea and cakes, Anzac biscuits, Louise square and other NZ treats.

After our cuppa we were on our own again. Walked into the Oparara Arch, a huge open ended cave with river flowing through and a separated arch at one end ….stunning!! Walked the Moria gate/mirror tarn link track (1 hour), The Moria arch was just stunning seen by climbing down underneath it. We then walked over it but you couldn’t tell until you got a distance away and looked back. It’s a much photographed area that often appears in NZ calendars. Continued on the Mirror tarn loop which is a reflective lake, but it’s very dark from all the tannins.

Time to reflect!

We caught a glimpse of a pair of Whio (blue duck) disappearing around the corner of the river we were following. Then we were out on the road and crossing a bridge when we spotted another pair cruising under the bridge, bums up feeding off the bottom ….we were soo close to them, a highlight to see such a rare species!!

Drove up to the far carpark and it was a 5 minute walk into Box Canyon, which is a huge open sea like cave. Then to Crazy Paving Caves where the bottom of the cave is like a  dried  mud pattern.

Back to the motel to make up a shopping list for the Heaphy. And down to the 4 Square on a shopping expedition, food to last the next 2 ½ days, there’ll be no pubs in sight! Mission accomplished we came back to the hotel and rang the rental car people to return it… no hurry as they advised it’ll be picked up in the morning. Dinner at the hotel again but out of roast dinners so burger it had to be.... the hardship!

Desperately trying to dry bike shorts that we washed last night. Today was coldish (10-12C) with no sun, so nothing dried at all. We’ve cracked up the heater now to speed things up.

A fascinating day off the bike, the muscles still hurt a bit if stretched though?? The Heaphy tomorrow, with a forecast of rain tomorrow morning or all day depending which forecast one reads, but looking fine for the next 3 days after …here’s hoping!!!

Our motel unit doesn’t lock and we’ve been told to leave the rental car keys in the visor …must be a reasonably safe place to live!!!